You haven't done something like knocked the caps on the overflow and released the seal just enough?
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You haven't done something like knocked the caps on the overflow and released the seal just enough?
I am hoping it is something as simple as this. Bleed system again should solve it as well as some new caps while I'm at it... Will have a crack.Quote:
Originally Posted by gubigfish
Even so, if I did... Where did the bit of coolant go. I understand the pressure cap on the header tank has two functions it is a pressure cap but it also allows the radiator to suck back the expanded coolant back as it cools to maintain a filled up airless system.
I'm always a bit cautious on bleeding this system.
Sorry i didnt answer your text earlier. Phone went flat as soon as i read the message. So ill post here so i dont forget. Ill be home late next week....
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Picked up some caps before. Mr Nissan knows how to hit the wallet that's for sure.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2017/01/80.jpg
Sent from S5
Should have gotten them from overseas.
Your temp differences are not a worry. The warmer weather could be changing the resistance of the wire altering the readout ever so slightly. I dont those temp gauges would be that accurate.
As for bleeding these systems they are dead simple compared to the earlier ones. Fill the rad. The fill the header tank. Take for a quick drve and top up if required.
Thanks Mat. I could have gotten them a lot cheaper even from Mark but he is on holidays. I needed them before MOnday morning.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
As for the temps, I'm confident its getting worse. It's 22C here, has been cool all day. Stopped and sitting at lights after just cruising on a main rd @ 60kmh. Gauge reads 77 and begins climbing, all the way to 83 and then slowly comes down. The temps have never done anything remotely like this before even at 27-28C + ambient, let alone on a cool 22C day. Something is definitely up.
As for bleeding, are you saying these are self bleeding? I thought I would have had to do the coke bottle uphill trick.
Yeah they are self bleeding. The header tank is the same as putting a Coke bottle in the rad. Very simple mate they are a much better arrangement.
Ok I see. So in theory, even I did get some air into the system by chance, it would have bled itself out by now...Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Had the cooling system pressure checked . Held full pressure for 3 hours not even half a psi lost. So no leaks.
Will just monitor it and act if it gets worse . Inconclusive result.
Sent from S5
Re: My temps overall being few degrees higher.
Just had another thought ... Since I re-located my boost controller, literally a day before this occurrence began , I may or may not have knocked the setting slightly? @nissannewby
Mat, does altering boost here have any influence on fuel? So lowering boost it lowers fuel and vice versa ?
I don't fully understand how the whole boost vs. IP system works.
The reason I'm asking is last 2 tanks I have got worse fuel economy too... So....
What I am getting at is, if, say fuel was increased a tad, therefore more fuel burnt, higher temps ? Just a brainstorm thought.
Do you have a boost gauge?
It shouldnt effect your temperatures. I still think you are worrying to much over such a small difference. If it was 10 degrees across the board then maybe be looking.
Thanks Mat. Not worried one bit as it is far from being "hot". Just very curious as to what Ive done to change it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Shes going in for full service, clutch, brakes, valve clearances, etc... next week and then booked in at Diesel Tec for a proper tune up. Should come up good.
All good mate. I meant to say it shouldnt change and have edited it now.
Is your viscous fan ok it may be failing at idle once moving you have air flow
and temps come down
I think this the problem I'm having.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Experiencing 5 to 10 degrees above normal.
Will take it out and refill with new oil when I get a chance.
Apologies for the hijack
No hijack involved whatsoever. Its all good info !! The hub is next on the chopping block... From my limited knowledge, at operating (thermostat temps) the fan doesn't lock enough. When I flick the fan, it has a bit of play. 1/4 to 1/ a turn before it stops... Mudski had a go and he seems to think the same. He has been playing different oil levels on his hub so I'll take his word of advice on it. They had a god in the workshop yesterday and they believe it is pulling good air and locks up enough when motor is hot. I should have replaced the hub when I had the whole cooling system overhauled. So, i've called it. New hub going in. That will eliminate that.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
So bit of an update.
Had the clutch done, flywheel machined, valves adjusted and full service done. All filters replaced etc...
Valves were very loose apparently so now they've been redone to spec. And you can definitely hear less "ticka tacka ticka tacka" sound.
Car now wears a 4Terrain heavy duty clutch. It now grabs really well right off the mark. Old clutch was definitely original. Clutch was fine, but from what I understood him the pressure plate wasnt holding "pressure" or tension or whatever... Loose springs or whatever....
And... Mat I can finally answer your question from a while back...Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
That gear box rattle / growl has now been reduced by at least 80% ! It is still there but nowhere near as severe !!! Maybe because it grabs really good and early now?
It reminds me of driving my 3L Patrol again it is that quiet ! However... when I bumped into @Dowie last week, his one was the same after clutch replacement and then slowly returned... So we will see how this one goes. Overall very very happy. Smooth car now on many levels.
The only negative now is, new clutch has exasperated a "clunk" I have which used to happen once in a while. Now it happens once every 2 or 3 gear changes. It's like when taking foot off the clutch, something goes clunk somewhere in the driveline. He checked what he could externally and there was no play... But needed more time to check / open things etc... Almost as if taking up slack ... Maybe diff back lash?? I don't know whether that could be worse with new truck. But thats another story ...
As for my transfer case leak... That is on the to do list. Leak wasnt that bad and I needed the car back.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ear-tail-shaft
Try changing gears differently, and see if that helps pin point your clunk.
PML you have a @Clunk lol
Ive been thinking about the new noise you have. I reckon it will go away as the clutch beds in. Because its all new, the clutch will grab a hell of a lot faster than an old clutch. Which will exasperate any noises. So as the clutch wears in and the pedal height will slightly rise, I think it will go. My gearbox has the same, well similar clunk as to yours, but only when my missus drives it. It must be the way, or the timing of her releasing the clutch to pressing the go pedal. Anyhow i dont you should be concerned over it, as it is a 3T 4WD, with a rattly TD42 shaking the shite out of things, and things will rattle and clunk.
I dont think this is clutch related Mark @mudski. It seems to be further down the line... Like there is play between the gears somewhere in the diff or gearbox or something...
I should actually almost call it a "jolt" as the car just about jolts forward when something "grabs" and begins applying momentum to the car. But it happens "after" clutch engages not during... If that makes sense it takes a second or milliseconds even , I'm confident its down the line...
I'll come around when i get a moment you take it for a spin you'll see, feel and hear it trust me lol.
So today I took Mudski for a spin and he had sisten and a drive , trying to sort out what the clunk is. Then I had my work mechanic do the same and all are confident this is most likely on the diff.
Excessive backlash ? Who knows.
To confirm , can i jack up the rear axle , take the rear shaft off the transfer and see if there is play by hand spinning the shaft ?
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I think I have maybe nailed this, this morning. I think it is the clutch fan kicking out ... I had the bonnet up after starting the car checking something, and after a little bit ... motor revved up ever ever slightly and like it had some load taken off and the whooshing air from the fan went much quieter...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
It makes sense after speaking to @mudski , clutch is solid when cold, and then it released after warming up a little bit, and then kicks in later again by oil when it heats up...
Put one of your real heavy sparkies gloves on and see if you can stop the fan from spinning with the engine idle. After the engine has had a good drive. As long as you run your hand in the right direction on the spinning fan you wont do any damage. Its when the clutch is hot, is where the issue will be.
Won't bother . Just slap a new one on when it arrives. Solved.
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Rear lsd.......
Have you tried turning the tailshaft by hand when in gear and rear jacked up
to see how much backlash you actually have?? that should confirm it for you.
with the motor off of course. lol
You already have one of the HPD water pumps fitted yes???
I reckon it's more likely to be your glow plugs turning off
does it happen only at start up or evrytime he changes gear,Im not sureQuote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Wouldnt a new fan do the same thing, ????Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Fan is useless if the clutch it fucked and can't drive the fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
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Yeah you can but I dont know if this is going to do a whole lotta good. You have nothing for comparison and who knows, the back lash you have might be ok. The only way to find out for sure is to remove the centre and have it checked. Then you might aswell put new clutch plates and shims in the LSD while its out. Where does it stop. Lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
So this returned with a vengeance today. Spent a bit of time trying to find what and where under a hot running 4.2 with ambient 34C and it's not fun...Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Ran out of time, but I'll have to drop each belt to try and isolate it.
I only just remembered that it actually happened last year. (hence quoting my self) I'm confident it's the same noise but at a lesser level...
I just HOPE this time it doesn't go away all of a sudden preventing me finding out what it is.
Aircon pulley?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
That or the idler pulley . Prime suspects.
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so back to the drawing board lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
hopefully you can pin point the problem this time around
Yeah this time it's still there. So I think it'll stay till it's fixed.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
This morning turned car on it was gone I was spewing. But by the time I got to tulla 15km.trip it was there in all its glory. So this after noon I hope to disassemble belts and try and pin point.
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Certainly sounds weirds, not the best weather to be working on 4x4s either
Have you gat a thethescope to listen to Air con pully bearing??
Car was on dyno yesterday. Slight improvement since last time. I also had the 2 tensioners / pulleys and viscous hub replaced. Whatever the bearing noise I had is now gone... Happy times. Just working on burping the system now, its taking it's sweet time. Used my spill free funnel for first time.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=71206&stc=1
Its taking its time cos they dont work like the older systems like I have told you. If everything is full then just drive it. Recheck the level tomorrow morning. I doubt you have to top up much if any. Once the radiator is full you should only have check it at the header tank.