Yuccas be gone, indigenous eucalypts are the best :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/04/68.jpg
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Yuccas be gone, indigenous eucalypts are the best :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/04/68.jpg
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Far out poor old Manna Gum. Make it home OK?
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Too easy mate, just let the tyres down to -40psi on the old Q :-)
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Though the creek lol [emoji6] . .
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Goddammit! I need some firewood!Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Plenty down on one tree hill rd by the looks of it. . Does that make it 0 tree hill now?? . .Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Gotta love the Dandenongs!
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Guys, was under the passenger side front dash area today and noticed the fan has come adrift from a heater box - I am guessing. What would cause this - the foam is perished, at the interface of the two boxes and everything appears firmly mounted.Attachment 80926
Wondering if the persished foam isn’t just like a flexible joint design from the factory Phil mate. You’ve had her way back since then and still securely mounted, maybe a ‘Clark Rubber’ profile matching visit is on the cards?
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Tested the old soft-roaders coils out this afternoon hauling a massive 2,000L of 78% N7, 21% O2 and a small mixture of some other crud :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2020/04/86.jpg
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Foam looks like its just perished. I think it would be quite easy to make up your own.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
See the part in red...
Attachment 80927
Easy peasy to get some slightly denser than normal foam and cut a gasket. Bin there, done that, Phil.
Many thanks guys, great bunch here. I was wondering if it could just fail, but I guess I have not been in it really since the rebuild began, I would not have noticed. I will have a look at the difficulty of getting a home made jobbie installed, however might ultimately default to a factory. Mark, is that pic from the overseas website or a local aussie buy from Nissan?
Hey Phil, I think it is fairly comon for the foam to disintegrate with age. Mine was pretty shot when I did the rebuild just used some door sealing strip stuff from bunnings seemed to work well.
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That is from the Nissanfast program. The part number is at the bottom of the pic. I checked the part number and it seems to be discontinued. If you ring your local Ni$$an stealer and get them to check if there's any still available from any dealers.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
I did the same with my GU when I had to change the heater core. I just used the door seal stuff from Bunnings as mine were pretty shot aswell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Thanks Mark, I have some 20mm soft draft seal so with shove that in and see how it goes.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Love that ute MB, looks great.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
How come the tanks are on the tool boxes???
Was just being silly 10G mate.
Had to cart em home empty for Pony trough tanks.
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Yeah I don’t think this is supposed to happen. [emoji38]
Attachment 80938
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Time to buy a BT50 Mark [emoji1787]Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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"Yeah I don’t think this is supposed to happen."
What made you decide you needed to pull it apart?
Perhaps you need to read this thread :)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...Rebuild-Thread
Getting the passengers side axle in is really a pain in the A...
Done it a few times... still get a leak. Last time dropped the level of oil in diff to reduce the "seeping/leaking past the axel seal"
Going to try the seals that promise to be the bees knees next time
Cheers
Trevor
I would rather masturbate with a cheese grater...Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast
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It all started with one of the OEM manual hubs had let a little water in and it got a little rusty in there. Stripped it, cleaned it out, then decided to do the other side. Stuff happened in life for a bit, so I put my auto hubs back on but there was no innards to them. I chucked them on just to stop the crap from getting in. Only done maybe 100ks since and now the axle seal is shot. It wasn't real good to start with, this has just accelerated the issue. The end of the axle shaft was just "floating in the hub" with no support at the end of the axle shaft. Because the auto hub I put back on had no guts in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by tryan277
Removed the double din head unit and threw it in the bin. Apparently they don’t like fists. Lol. Piece of cheap Chinese Eonon shite!
Also found a broken exhaust bracket. Same one has busted twice before.
So now on the hunt for a new double din head unit.
Attachment 80954
It’s good that I work at a place that sells exhaust parts. Found a flange so I’ll cut this and make a decent bracket.
Attachment 80955
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Pics please, you know the rulesQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
You know this is going to hurt, idea
is to keep the blood in ouch
Pm sent! [emoji2957]Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
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So the upper control arm is fubar. The middle adjuster bit just slides in and out of the end. The thread doesn’t even catch. My choices are. Weld the fecker in and replace the bushes as they are flogged our. Or get a new arm. Which might be exy. As I also need to buy a double din head unit.
Hmmmm.Attachment 80960
Attachment 80961
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Might still have some OEM arms hiding in the shed somewhere Mark mate if you’d like to hunt for them!
EDIT: Forgot your beast has a 4”+ lift.
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Thanks Mark. Yeah I need an adjustable arm.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
I also forgot I need to buy a new aux battery too. Ugh! Sway bar rose joints are all fudged too. Bloody hell. The boss ain’t gonna be happy....
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Just weld it. It will still be adjustable as such you will just have to remove one end to do so. This is no different to what superior and others off anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
They don't tend to be adjusted after they have been set anyway and even if it did require some small adjustment with new bushes it should not matter as it will only be a very small amount. Like half or one turn.
The thread is pretty flogged out. I’m concerned the weld just around the end to the nut won’t be enough and it will break again. It was a big pain to get this rod out as the Long range sub sits around and under it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I was thinking of maybe drilling two holes in the female threaded end and also weld in there to the male threaded section as well. Maybe. Gotta work out the price of two new bushes and my time to remove and refit and also repair the rod compared to just putting a new one on. Plus I don’t need a bent rod. Which has put the extra strain on the threaded section too because of the angle. I can get away with a straight rod here.
I’ll sleep on it.
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You got a long range sub tank Mark? What brand?
Got no idea mate sorry. Bought it off a member here many moons ago for nix.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
Yep plug welding would be effective and my next suggestion. I would drill all the way through in one spot and say 20mm further away drill all the way through again but perpendicular to the first hole. The just fill with weld.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
But as you say a new one will likely be less hassle once you factor in the cost and effort to replace the bushes.
Well I decided to repair it. $70for two bushes and a couple of hours and it will be like new.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I was thinking of drilling right through and putting a bolt in it and then welding that in too. Or something along those lines...
So I made my own press dolly up last night. An old calliper piston. I had to run a bead of weld around the lip and then grind it down a little as the piston was about 2mm too small. But it worked a treat.
Attachment 80965
I also had a larger TB piston but I thought it would be easier to weld up rather that grind the entire piston down.
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Mig welding in slippers burns! Just a warning for others. Lol.
Plug welded and then around the nut. Hopefully she holds.
Attachment 80971
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Do it in boots and you get lumps of that hot glue down inside them. Do it in bare feet (my usual safety gear) and you stand on the stuff. Never tried slippers, so thanks for the advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
[QUOTE=mudski;802052]Mig welding in slippers burns! Just a warning for others. Lol.
Plug welded and then around the nut. Hopefully she holds.
Attachment 80971
By the looks of that weld you were definately jumping around in agony :) :)