X 2 on that Hodge mate. On 33s and easy calc @ 100ks (10+bit %). Rather not be watching for flashing lights behind.
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X 2 on that Hodge mate. On 33s and easy calc @ 100ks (10+bit %). Rather not be watching for flashing lights behind.
Plassy! It's a 5 minute job. Not even...
You will need a 10mm socket and a pair of circlip pliers.
Sensor on transfer case, drivers side. Easily accesible. Can't miss it. Undo 10mm bolt holding the sensor assembly in. Slide sensor out.
Undo the circlip holding the cog on the end. Slide replacement cog on and re-fit circlip. Slide sensor assembly back in, re-do 10mm bolt.
Enjoy your speedo not bullshitting to you any more!
MORE than happy to take extra pics for you if you need mate! Let us know.
Here is a table if you need to work out what color you need, etc...
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ead.php?t=3423
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=77057&stc=1
Thanks Hodgey, and @TuffTD42 for the link!
Due to my new business venture, I've dropped my comprehensive insurance down to Fire/Theft only. Only driven it for about a tank of fuel over the past 3-5 months and still have winter diesel in the tanks. Gotta give it a good run and change to summer diesel. Seriously thinking about de-registering it for 6 months each year, and smash the camping over Autumn/Winter each year so I can get the camp fires going. In many cases, fire restrictions start in mid September over in the west. Choices, choices ?????????
A trip to tas will clean the tank out grunt!
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I started, gutting and ripping metres and metres of un-needed and overkill vacuum hoses and pipes.
Right now hoses and pipes go up the front of the motor, along passenger wheel arch over the top to the canister on passenger corner and then back again via the firewall to the brake and clutch boosters. The vacuum circuit does a grand tour of the engine bay before its final destination... Stupid.
Vacuum canister will end up drivers side, pretty close to the brake and clutch booster, fed directly from the pump.
Happy to report this definitely helped!! Today was it's first major test I like to think.
Drove to Geelong and back today, after quickly stopping over at Darren's. It was 34-36C all the way.
Aircon on, 100kmh most of the way car sat at 84-85C and did not go over 89C. And that was on one of the long haul hills, which I dropped to 4th anyway, as I lost power.
Prior to adding oil, last summer, it would sit and cruise around 88-91!
Went to start it. Wouldn't start. So locked it up again. I think it's upset with me for driving the Pajero for the last week
Front end alignment, found the damaged cable to the rear camera and repaired it, all good. Whilst down at the tyre joint asked about a heavy wall radial in 16" and they have a 'no name tyre that is listed at 10 ply - radial - bit hard to imagine so waiting for more info, and its $145 a tyre.
My Nitto terra grapplers were 10 ply and were free lol
I used to work for the importer
Proud BTrol Owner
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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/12/350.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/12/351.jpg
Proud BTrol Owner
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Thanks, and who keeps photos of their tyre ratings???????? Glad there is one of you out there.
How did you find these tyres, did they wear well, stood up to punctures, wore evenly, noisy/quiet, compared to other brands would you go back to them?
They are a great tyre, not too noisy but you have to expect some noise seeing as they are not a road tyre.
They wore really well and never had a puncture. Being 10 ply they are quite hard and don’t bag out much when on sand but still no problem on the sand at 18 psi and are excellent in the wet.
Definitely would get them again
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/12/352.jpg
Proud BTrol Owner
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Good solid feedback, many thanks, will consider them for sure.
Tinkered under the hood , relocating some relays etc.
Went for a drive before to grab a pizza and after taking off I had NO brakes. The pedal was stiff as a post ! I shit my pants. I was onto that pedal like a rash, I'm pretty sure i nearly dislodged my seat mounts ... And nothing ! She was not dropping anchors ... Lucky I didn't get up to speed . Clutch worked fine , so I initially thought it can't be vacuum related.
Then it dawned on me I did take a vacuum hose off earlier to measure diameter and it never went back on... Idiot !
This was my first vacuum less experience ...
I was not aware that brakes relied THIS much on vacuum boosting power ? I thought a Bit more extra foot on the pedal will apply enough pressure without vacuum.
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Scary stuff I hear you too Hodgey mate!
Accidentally bumped off a tiny say 2mm rubber cap near the vacuum cannister tinkering last year out bush. Vacuum system checks has now moved up quite high on my daily’s out there, packed my dacks on one hill good and proper :-)
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Getting ready for Cape Jaffa....http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/12/358.jpg
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Scary shit when the car your driving doesn't do what you want.
Not brakes, but I undid one if the large clamps near the accelerator linkage a while ago and when I put it back on it wasn't in the same spot. Went for a spin and the trol won't pull up, thought it was something with the brakes. Had to drive in the bike lane ended up in 1st with the handbrake up and still didn't come to a complete stop, last straw was to shut down the engine. Popped the bonnet and the screw part of the clamp was on the wrong side of the cable...
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If your vac line was completely off Hodgey mate nothing would help there but brute force I would imagine. My little dack crapping experience was likened to a descent vac leak and was overcome by heal & toe keeping the revs up until a safe stopping flat was found for fault finding.
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I've always had trouble engaging and disengaging the difflock in my 2106 CRD, so I thought I'd give the Mac solenoid mod a go. It has certainly improved it, but I still struggle to get it enagaged at times, I find I need to creep forward or backward and move it pretty sharply left and right to find the sweet spot where it all lines up and the locker enagages. From what I've read this is pretty normal with the factory locker.
Unlocking is now instant, so a great improvement there, as I used to wait ages sometimes for it to unlock.
A couple of before and after pics below, I just used 6mm poly airline and 1/8" BSP fittings that I had at work. The poly airlines I just slid down inside the existing vaccum hoses and put small sping clamps on them. I just drilled a couple of holes in what was left of the factory bracket and mounted the Mac solenoid directly to it.
The factory solenoid:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/12/359.jpg
These are a great fast acting solenoid, the 532F modification to these is a waterproofing option to make it washdown proof. (Full Part# 45A-GC1-DDBA-1BA-532F)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/12/360.jpg
The finished job:
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/12/361.jpg
Picked up a new GUTD42T Nissan OEM radiator a few weeks back and had it installed along with tappets adjusted for an upcoming sand trip.
Hopefully these new OEM radiators are as good as its first having lasting 360,000km+ and 17+ years in the old family tank [emoji106]
Old ones still ok, just an insurance policy for the sand and too lazy to clean it for full efficiency no doubt needed forthcoming[emoji106][emoji106]
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Its amazing MB that the body shape does not give away its age, understanding it might have been one of the first GU's in the range. Good to see its still chugging away and doing the service.
Nice. I put in a Koyorad radiator in mine. Apparently Koyorad are what Nissan use. Its a far cry better than the OEM copy that was in there. Got one new for around half the price of what Patrol a Part sell them for. Good to have connections. If you ever need any parts like alternators , rads, belts, hoses, filtration, pretty much anything let me know.
Uhmm. Feck! Doesn’t look real good...http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/12/404.jpg
The bottom silicone elbow had dirt and all sorts on the inside of it. Couldn’t figure out why as I always made sure the clamps are good and tight. It turns out when I had the Patrol engineered they also changed the intake of the turbo to 4inch. So they had to fab up a new intake pipe to the air box. Well the pipe they used isn’t quite 4inch. So the when clamping up the hose it’s basically pinching in one section and leaving a gap open for all sorts of nasties to get in. Great!
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Yeah 4inch pipe is supposed to be 102mm OD. Same as 102mm ID silicone. But this pipe measures 99.5. Not much but enough to not seal good enough. So I’ve had to use some sos tape to space it out, clamp the home hose, then I used more sos tape on the end of the hose and onto the pipe. Sealing it up good.
I wonder if this is the cause of the turbo leaking oil on the outlet side. The inlet is dry of oil as the catch can is doing its job, but the outlet and inter cooler have oil right through it. Not a lot but it’s visible when you remove one of the inter cooler hoses.
Not sure if this is normal though.
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Yeah, my CC (Provent 200) lets a bit of oil vapor thru as one would expect and can feel a fair amount the oil smear both sides of turbo. Not dripping but visible and easily wiped away. Not sure of your turbo build but CRD 2052v Garrett being oil /air cooled, use the oil pressure to centralize the thrust bearings to run true. There looks like a lot of abrasive action against your comp wheel, what is the bearing / journal build for your turbo?
With CRD 2052v shaft bearings being oil pressurized and with that much grit going thru, recon my seals would have a hard time.
My turbo has roller bearings. I checked and there was zero play in the shaft so I suppose that’s good. I’m just concerned of engine damage more than turbo. But the motor has only done circa 35 thou since the build three years ago so I’m hoping there little to no damage. Anyhow if it’s rooted then so be it. But it still pulls Jesus from its cross so there can’t be much wrong.
I do think it’s time to ditch this fatz air box and put something real in there. But I need to move the six battery first. Next years resolution. If I don’t burn the fecking then first. Haha!
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I mentioned the turbo bearing, as if the bearings were oil fed like mine, the seals may have gone and could throw oil. May not be the case for your build.
Any nasties might have just blown right on thru. Limited sand /dust for you maybe.
Guess Radius LS1 be one up from Fatz or a big bgrrr (cyclonic) from Donaldson.