Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

Righto, scotch locks worked, got the connection, no fault, and the power to the dash controller is functioning, there was a plug end missing from the dash mounted controller so it wasnt getting power, no sign of the missing plug, just 4 bare wires - WTF. Anyway, I stripped and soldered the cables together and looks like I am past Diagnostic Step 1. Yee Haaa. Next is Step 2, trying to squeeze some time in but work is getting in the way. I am sure glad, as I am sure a few people on this site would agree that I never selected auto electrical as a career - I consistently manage to make a mince of this stuff, but money and time does compensate it guess!! Stay tuned for the next step.

Fired up the cruise control again yesterday to move to step 2 and no go - actuator not responding. I did another troubleshooting hunt on the internet and found another start up and trouble shooting procedure for the same model , from the same manufacturer with different comments and instructions. So I did a couple of tweaks today and waiting to try it later, but seems there are two models of this CC avail and I didn't know this. There is the model I have with the magnets on the tailshaft and then a model that takes a feed off the speedo output in the dash - to some degree I am happy with the tailshaft set up as long as it can handle corrugations - but first just need it to actually test cycle - bloody frustrating.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

Fired up the cruise control again yesterday to move to step 2 and no go - actuator not responding. I did another troubleshooting hunt on the internet and found another start up and trouble shooting procedure for the same model , from the same manufacturer with different comments and instructions. So I did a couple of tweaks today and waiting to try it later, but seems there are two models of this CC avail and I didn't know this. There is the model I have with the magnets on the tailshaft and then a model that takes a feed off the speedo output in the dash - to some degree I am happy with the tailshaft set up as long as it can handle corrugations - but first just need it to actually test cycle - bloody frustrating.

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I have had similar units on other vehicles. You should have no issues with the magnets on the tailshaft as long as you use double sided tape and the wires nice and firm and crossed over between the magnets. I have also used magnets recovered from 'phone receivers (common items used by a previous employer) and could probably locate some if you need them.
Mounting the sensor coil and magnets needs to be such that there is no risk of them hitting each other but remain fairly close together as thimgs flex and shake.

Thanks BB I will review once I get the electronics working first

Still fighting with the Cruise Control, next is having a look at the actuator and then the controller, very frustrating.

Installed the two replacement fuel flowmeters, one works, one does not. I am ging to check the cable first with a new jumper, have already pulled the unit apart and all appears ok. Another frustrating area to resolve. I have ordered a replacement unit just to be sure.

OK, managed to get both flowmeters providing a pulse output to the controller, however not registering the flow. I think the issue is the pulse rate setting in the control head. I have found out the unit is a Scintex unit, on-sold by Topargee. I have the data from setup but its so long since I set it up I can't recall the process.

Yet to resolve the CC, back on site until Monday then back into it I guess.

Ok, had some great technical support from the supplier of the re-badges flow meters - Scintex. I tried to remove the original units located in the impossible zone where I installed them, didn't happen, still looking for a solution to do this - currently maybe a metal fine toothed sabre saw, but for now they stay where they are. I tried to re-calibrate the cheapie flowmeters to the Scintex Controller, however either the flowrate pulses supplied by the suppler is incorrect or something else, but the numbers are not coming thru. So I bit the bullet and spent the $1200 on two replacement Scintex flowmeters, waiting for their arrival, and they are relocated to where I had them originally under the bonnet, so accessible for installation.

Next moved onto the Cruise Control. Cant get the unit past the Stage 1 calibration mode to get the throttle control cable to actuate. Again, great support from Command, however this unit is now a deleted line. I have no doubt it works as a system, as it was the same model originally installed with the conversion, but damaged when a belt let go and destroyed the actuator. Anyway, the electronic controller may be faulty and there is no stock, never to be made again, its wired correctly as determined by the operations up to this step. I have been advised to not try and open the vac actuator as its a sealed unit, so the first step is to take it for a drive and see if it actually works in the field as opposed to simulation mode. I have had to drop the clutch pedal switch from the circuit as this appears to be where the issues lies in getting things to simulate, however the technician stated the simulation mode was always glitchy, so will see. The decision then will be as to whether I have the drive to buy another unit at circa $800 which is electronic and supposedly less problematic, but no discounted price even after recognition the unit is faulty but is outside of the purchase warranty period -I get that, just would have been a good gesture based on the amount of time expended on trying to get this to work.

Lastly, pulled the pin on a Rugged 180 Degree semi self opening awning for the other side of the car. I bought a 2.5M wide x 3m out, simple roll out awning like I had previously. Its been a while since I have used this style as the car has been off the road more or less for over 5 yrs all up with this journey. Anyway, what was a process I had down pat is now more annoying, so bit the bullet on the replacement. The plan is to remove the roll out unit, which is on the Passenger side and transfer it to the drivers side, then install the self opening unit on the passenger side. The passenger side has the drop down fridge and cooking utensils and kitchen module, whilst the drivers side has the freezer and coffee machine and thinner bench, protected to a large degree by the canopy awning. I can then roll out the manual awning for a bit more cover or to protect the swag - the last trip we got caught in a wild storm and this setup made sleeping easier and exiting middle of the night for a leak better as well.
I now have a lot more dicking around but can make a start I guess to relocate the awning as installed to the opposite side. I looked very hard at the 270 deg units across all manufacturers but my setup just didnt work. I dont have a need to access anything on the rear of the car, and the Codan HF auto tuner antenna is mounted off the rear wall, so it would require a clearance hole. Most awnings of this style are offered with a D ring zip opening to access roof top tents, but the hole does not line up with the antenna - and the antenna cant be moved because its in a specific location and height for structural munt and clearance protection from branches.

Anyway, big outflow of mney, again, but getting closer to the end point. Last thing will be the 20mm height trimmer blocks under the rear springs.

Will the issues ever end Phil? God help the next person who has your Patrol if you ever sell it. Lol.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Will the issues ever end Phil? God help the next person who has your Patrol if you ever sell it. Lol.

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What you can be assured is that everything will be solved or it gets ripped out. Its been a journey and no, I dont intend selling it. The bee stings are all but exhausted I think. I know where all the issues have been and how they have been resolved, not a hesitation in jumping in it for a big trip tomorrow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

What you can be assured is that everything will be solved or it gets ripped out. Its been a journey and no, I dont intend selling it. The bee stings are all but exhausted I think. I know where all the issues have been and how they have been resolved, not a hesitation in jumping in it for a big trip tomorrow.

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Yes i do believe you there mate. I know how you work, leaving no stone unturned...

Just added a full awning wall kit to the Visa Card - oh the noise is coming I can feel it!!!!

The Cruise control is more the annoying issue. It may go away with the road trial, but based on previous luck I doubt it. Seems the replacements are limited for a car so rudimentary, so currently assessing the Command AP 607 which is essentially a different control box and an electrical actuator - Its likely to be easier to fit and probably has a bit more finesse than the vac unit, but another $900. If I can get the AP60B unit resolved, even without the clutch pedal disconnect I will be happy - not holding my breath.

Well, still waiting for the replacement Scintex flowmeters, communication from them not that great but after a couple of follow ups it appears the units are in transit from Sydney, so days away. And the cheapie units have now decided to operate - *uck me. The calibration is off, reading about 1.2L/HR off which I think could be corrected by changing the pulse rate from the units. I am simply comparing the units that were in previously. So I have a comparison, and might set them up to mirror the actual outputs numbers I know at idle, however the controller is still not happy with the data as its not doing the auto calculations to show the difference between flow to engine and return and then calculate the consumption rate.

Swapped the 3 x 2.5m awning from the passenger side to the drivers side - man alive its a mission by yourself. Took 6 hours with the jinking around, and I am no longer 25 YO, but the brain still thinks the body is, so was a bit wrecked last night. Ready for the new Rugged 180 deg unit that arrives circa thursday- have lined up some help for that monster.

Did a bit more investigation into the crusie control. The supplier gave me another fault finding routine to narrow in on the root cause, however with two electric lift pumps in play its impossible to hear if the actuator solenoid are working when energised - or nt.

I pulled the back off the actuator and removed the solenoids, jump tested them and they work. I then hooked up a test light across the supply cables and tried the dash switch, no power coming from that circuit, so its either the controller or a faulty brake switch, so have altered a new brake switch from PAP and will see if thats the issue - I doubt it as the brake lighhts come on, and the 25W resistors are installed for the LED brake lights - will see.

After my disaster copping a fuel tank full of water, that put me out of action for weeks, I bit the bullet on a Responsive Engineering Water Separator, comes with an electrical loom and relay with buzzer to alert on detected water. I went the generic kit as unsure exactly where its going right now but between the tank and lift pump, pre the fuel filter I am thinking. Comes preconfigured with the hose fittings of choice, up to 12mm and confirmed the unit will handle the flowrate and pressure, so good to go, designed and manufactured in Australia, Canberra, been very proactive with their responses to questions. No filters, centrifugal operation.
https://waterindiesel.com.au/pages/water-watch

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

I pulled the back off the actuator and removed the solenoids, jump tested them and they work. I then hooked up a test light across the supply cables and tried the dash switch, no power coming from that circuit, so its either the controller or a faulty brake switch, so have altered a new brake switch from PAP and will see if thats the issue - I doubt it as the brake lighhts come on, and the 25W resistors are installed for the LED brake lights - will see.

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Just for shits and giggles Phil. Remove the led brake lights and see what happens. Maybe, just maybe, the LED lights are playing some funky game with the controller, or what ever is playing up.

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Originally Posted by mudski

Just for shits and giggles Phil. Remove the led brake lights and see what happens. Maybe, just maybe, the LED lights are playing some funky game with the controller, or what ever is playing up.

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Thanks Mark, the supplier directed me to install the 25W LED resistors across the brake lights which I did, and they actually got me one step closer to success, so they were one of the problems. I think that step is sorted. I am yet to take the car for a drive - just too many other excuses not to I suppose, but the other idea from the service tech is the controller has a fault that is not letting it properly into full diagnostic mode, so he suggests I just take it for a spin and see if it actually works in full mode. I will do this, cant hurt, and maybe the system proves to be ok - will let you know. Its frustrating not being able to source spares for stuff but I understand the shelf life issue for suppliers as well. If this craps out its another $800 for the electrical version of the vac assist unit I have.

On a vehicle that moves out of the garage maybe once every 3 months, its a bit of a choke.

Yes but maybe the LEDs are emitting some "hocus pocus" when they are activated. I'd be removing them just for science sake to see if anything changes. You have nothing to lose.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudski

Yes but maybe the LEDs are emitting some "hocus pocus" when they are activated. I'd be removing them just for science sake to see if anything changes. You have nothing to lose.

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Bit of a nightmare as the system wont work without the lights and it would mean having to replace with a standard set of filament globes which whilst not impossible, just not immediately available. I am going to take the car for a drive today/tomorrow and see if the set up works outside of the set up mode. If it does not I am looking at a full replacement I think as there are no spares in hand and cant find parts anywhere.

Scintex flowmeters arrived, pulse rate different to the one stuck under the car. Will fit tomorrow and re-calibrate the controller and see if I get a result - my luck I will need the latest display as well.Attachment 89177

Flowmeters installed, was cluster of bee stings, hose extensions and super tight installation, but now after swapping wires around a couple of times and doing some resetting of the unit I now have instantaneous to and from volumes, but nor rates/hr, however the controller is functioning, and reading the manual it could just be a function button not pressed. Sweating on the awning and water filter now as heading out for 3 nights early May and would like this stuff resolved if I can by then.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

I wanted to add a small but loud air horn to supplement the pipsqueak pip

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Pictures or better yet, a video! Or, you know, it didn't happen!

:bananarock:

I also want to put a airhorn someday.

Awning arrived today, holey crap its a big bugger of a box. Water trap also arrived, looking to mount it tomorrow morning before the grandkids arrive at lunchtime to hijack my day!

What a crazy day. Installed the water trap, then the lift pump would not draw through it. I left it running on prime for 10 minutes, bowl remained empty. Anyway decided to fire the engine up and it ran fine even high revs then stopped, no doubt air in the system. Went back an D forth like this for 20 mins then stopped the car and a huge puddle of fuel erupted onto the garage floor, maybe half a litre. After a bitch of a time gaining access to the return lines, found one line hanging loose. Thinking maybe the air pressure blew it off? Anyway, 2 hrs to replace it, not happy, fired it up, got running then second eruption, lines intact but one hose saturated, so pulled it off and replaced, another 2 hrs gone, battery in and out 3 times. Decided to check the end plug on return lines, another hr to get it off but it's ok, changed it anyway.
Now it's 6pm and been at it since 8am, yes I am rooted by now. Car would not prime r run so drove it in gear using the battery and parked it in the garage, tomorrow going to install the small lift pump I carry to run on the return line to tank, have found this works well on the chev so just leave them running for 30mins and should be clear of air, bloody cars, kill in' me

Bloody hell! Can you actually remember the last time you had a project that went without a single hitch?

Plenty but not on this car. This whole nightmare started when I added the water trap, which then kicked off what I can only account an unrelated set of activities that has continued to mushroom into the cluster it currently is - the hoses that were leaking were replaced on the drivers side, and one weeping hose on the passenger side. I clamped them up with hose clamps - nightmare spider finger squirrel midget finger stuff, than fired the car up last night and nothing leaked, however the car would then not run/idle. The car stopped like ran out of fuel but the water trap bowl was full and fuel pressure held at 12psi as normal. I cranked the car back into the garage , gave it a kick and curse and went inside.
Today I reinstalled the return line boost pump and this time a sightglass. I fired this second pump up to see if I had a fuel blockage. I was not getting flow thru the sight glass, I ran a jumper to the injector pump solenoid and straight to battery to ensure it was not an ignition issue. I let it cycle for maybe an hour and no fuel in the sightglass, both pumps running and fuel pressure transmitter indicating normal 12psi.
So decided to start it and it kicked on first turn as normal, ran smoothly and then stalled, Refired it a couple of times, would rev to 3K and hold 1000rpm for maybe 10 secs then dies like its out of fuel.
Then got out and discovered more fuel on the ground, appears to have blown the only hose on the drivers side I had not changed, so that is the mission for tonight.
Next will be removal of the water trap as this is where it all started. The flowmeters are gone from the circuit, however I am getting a weird over pressuring of the return line to tank that is blowing the hoses off the injector barbs. The system has operated from the first day without hose clamps, now, the drivers side return lines only require hose clamps and if not the hose blows off, diesel everywhere.
Not that happy, have a ton of high pressure commitments with work right now and supposed to be heading bush on monday for 3 nights. I am sure there is a simple reason for this latest diversion, unsure what it is. The symptoms are like its starving, but the return line pressure on just the drivers side is a mystery.
Anyway, I will see what I get to tonight - any ideas? The fuel pressure is constant and as previous and holds pressure right thru the stall. I though maybe it was a faulty injector pump solenoid - the dedicated battery direct wired solution does not rule that out.

Swapped out the leaking hose, clamps both end. Jury ran the 8mm new return line, need to iti that today if possible. Purchased the additional fuel line sight glasses and fittings - seems parts are scarce everywhere, hoses clamps filters, stocks down or waiting for restock? Going to recheck the recheck of the water trap to ensure its on the right direction and the pressure line, not return line - wouldn't that be embarrassing?

is the lift pump pre or post the water trap?

Lift pump post the water trap, so I am sucking thru the water trap and filter, which is fine because the fuel pressure to the injector pump has not changed a bit.

Ok I found the problem. When mounting the water trap the mount bracket clamped down onto the return fuel line, blocking fuel getting back to the tank ank sequentially blowing off each return line hose until they were clamped. I have run a replacement 8mm fuel return line and found the clamp point when down near the tank. Very frustrating, 3 days chasing my tail, lesson is to check and recheck and recheck your worksites. Yet yo fire in up as sealant on hose barbs on sight glasses needs to go off , but tomorrow it's going to start and return to original

Fired up, runs like a bird, bloody annoyed with my oversight, a two hr job ended up into a 4 day root around. Lesson learned, another one. So today I will re-install the flowmeters. Ammeter has decided to malfunction reading 2amps insted of normal 70, but volts are fine - might be a connection issue - not fussed - sort it out later, need to get the can back together for the weekend - dont forget Sunday is Mothers day, so no garage work!

Installed the flow meters, something hooked up wrong or flow meters in back to front - no idea right now. I rang Scintex hoping for a quick heads up, but they were clueless, so thats another trilogy for tomorrow. Mounted the awning brackets today after having to extensively modify them to suit my roofrack assy. Brother coming over tomorrow to help install it - 3kgs and mount points 1800apart, so a bit too big for one person. Engine running like it should so happy to get out the other side of this drama. Looking forward to sitting on a river for 3 nights next week, work intensity been crushing.

180 Deg Awning installed, mounts stiffened. Took 3 guys to handle the beast. Installed double line of mount bolts each end and an extra centre mount. Super stiff assy now, should take the corrugations ok. Attachment 89179Attachment 89180Attachment 89181 Attachment 89185Here is the 2.5m wide x 3m long roll out awning on the drivers side.Attachment 89182

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Originally Posted by BrazilianY60

Pictures or better yet, a video! Or, you know, it didn't happen!

:bananarock:

I also want to put a airhorn someday.

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Here you go. Been a bit busy getting the beast back on the road for tomorrows short camping break. I would have preferred to mount it under the bonnets, however there isn't a lot of room left! Its essentially blended from front view - until you are right on top of it - very load - honest loud. Unsure how submersible it is either so happy to get it a bit higher off the ground.Attachment 89183Attachment 89184

OK, trip went well, ended up at O'Tooles Campsite, between Aberfeldy and Walhalla in Vic, not a spot I would have picked however its a NPS sit and crisp and clean, drop dunny's and no litter anywhere, and we had the place to ourselves for 3 days.

No problems for the day, but the annoying squeal from front right brakes drove me to jack the car up and found the wheel brg a little loose, so off came the hub and found some oily soft gritty material in the small amount of grease on outside of the wheel bearing assy, stripped the assy apart, washed out and regreased, assembled then found I didn't have the wheel brg socket, so did the 'by hand method' and put it back together.

Headed home on Thursday morning, easy tracks out, car was running a little hotter than normal, and the interchiller setup not that flash. DRove home without incident until I got to my 'Intersection of Doom' about 500m from the house and took off at the lights to a squealing set of belts and water temps thru the roof. I nursed it to the final traffic light and of course had to wait the full cycle to get around, rolled into the driveway and the radiator dropped its guts, pissing out. Over temp and low water alarms screaming. Poked my head under the car and a solid jet coming out near the bottom hose/waterpump - FARK. Anyway, let it stop, cool down, emptied the fridge and drove it into the garage for a 2 day sulk.

Had a look Sat morning and a ruptured radiator hose. Hole about 30mm long near the clamp. The hoses were supplied 'new' and would have 20,000klm on them. Ragged tear and outer skin blown apart.

Pulled everything apart to get to the clamps and off it came, reached for the spare supplied by Brunswick at additional cost - NUP, different hole sizes. Supplied 50x 50 and needed to be 57x50. Began the chase around the 7 local spares jonts, no luck, two quoted me $496 each - so did the search on line and picked up two hoses for delivery by Wed this week, $60 each, same brand.

Had a wider look at the interchiller setup and the penny dropped about the heat. I had removed the foam hose insulation to get at the diesel return lines that was the earlier debacle and was unable to re-use them. The under bonnet of the chev is a highheat soak zone and I think the issue was un-insulated hoses - will re-insulate and test the theory. The A/C was definitely working.

Last on the list was the interference of the canopy door with the new Rugger Canopy. Canopy needs to be raised by circa 75mm to allow the canopy door to fully open and give clearance on the fridge - PIA task, have to undo the 20 bolts with Nulocs etc, takes 3 people, will be another 30 mins I reckon of grunting, but at least its better than cutting the arms - just need to check the garage door interface.Attachment 89197Attachment 89198

Think I got to the bottom of the amp meter failure. Another instance of failing to pay attention. The indications from previous instruments had the amp meter sitting at circa 120amps max, just after start up which then moderated to circa 65amps due to the water pumps I am running. What I noticed recently were readings in the 180 amp band - cant recall why, might have been running the direct feed off the alternator to the lithium bank during period of running the coffee machine??? Anyway, upon examination of the meter once it faulted to an output of 8, the scale was +/- 150amp, its a digital meter with a shunt. Another meter I have over-scaled. I have now replaced it with a different style unit that is rated to a 500amp span with a 500 amp shunt. I also found a 300amp unit with matching shunt, so should be ok now.

Going to sort out the blown hose tomorrow as well as the ammeter provided the outside temps are not in single digits. New hoses arrived, soluble oil coolant here together with an anti leak agent I am using for a leak I cant track down, only type that will effectively work with soluble oil - K-Seal from Supercheap, expensive, $35 per 200mls, but it works.

If enthused I might look at the extending of the new awning brackets to lift it 75mm. I could use the existing brckets but would mean less rows of mounting bolts and I am wary with the 35kg weight reacting thru 2 lines of bolts instead of 4 bolts - this will be another 6 hour struggle no doubt. Will be a welcome break from work I guess.

Be very careful about what you put in your cooling system. Phil. I ran my Corolla for near on eight years with the occasional small dose of silver seal to plug a cracked copper brass radiator. That stuff never seemed to block any of the smaller water galleries in the engine. I've seen and heard of other people get overheating issue after using other stop leak products.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PeeBee

If enthused I might look at the extending of the new awning brackets to lift it 75mm. I could use the existing brckets but would mean less rows of mounting bolts and I am wary with the 35kg weight reacting thru 2 lines of bolts instead of 4 bolts - this will be another 6 hour struggle no doubt. Will be a welcome break from work I guess.

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I was not very happy with the supplied awning brackets for either of the awnings I have had so I made my own, for several reasons:
1. the brackets only secured to a single rail on the rack (Rhino-rack Pioneer) and I wanted it to spread over at least 2 - particularly for the 'free-standing' 270 degree awning
2. I needed it at a different height than the supplied ones would provide
3. not at all happy with the idea of a hex head bolt in the tiny channel on the awning so I made my own version using suitable stock cut to fit neatly into the channel with 1 or 2 bolts threaded and welded into it to spread the load over a much greater area
4. brackets did not look all that strong, maybe fit-for-purpose but I prefer a little more security with all those corrugations
Mine may be over-kill, but I've never had an issue with these.
This one is for my 30 Second 270 degree awning to show what I mean.Attachment 89200

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mudnut

Be very careful about what you put in your cooling system. Phil. I ran my Corolla for near on eight years with the occasional small dose of silver seal to plug a cracked copper brass radiator. That stuff never seemed to block any of the smaller water galleries in the engine. I've seen and heard of other people get overheating issue after using other stop leak products.

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Thanks Craig, yes I am pretty picky but this stuff is the only gear compatible with the coolant I run and I have elected to not dose it today to see if the intermittent leaks were fixed with a revealing of a low level plug and also the hose. One negative with the soluble oil coolant is that some rubber compounds don't like it, and one hose developed a weeping sin so I contacted he manufacturer and they sent me a modified version. Perhaps the hose that let go was affected, nurse but point accepted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Brissieboy

I was not very happy with the supplied awning brackets for either of the awnings I have had so I made my own, for several reasons:
1. the brackets only secured to a single rail on the rack (Rhino-rack Pioneer) and I wanted it to spread over at least 2 - particularly for the 'free-standing' 270 degree awning
2. I needed it at a different height than the supplied ones would provide
3. not at all happy with the idea of a hex head bolt in the tiny channel on the awning so I made my own version using suitable stock cut to fit neatly into the channel with 1 or 2 bolts threaded and welded into it to spread the load over a much greater area
4. brackets did not look all that strong, maybe fit-for-purpose but I prefer a little more security with all those corrugations
Mine may be over-kill, but I've never had an issue with these.
This one is for my 30 Second 270 degree awning to show what I mean.Attachment 89200

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I love your work and improvement. My brackets are rigid but you can see I also elected to tie them back to the top rail on the roof rack. I am not satisfied just yet the solution is complete, looking at additional bracing after I raise the awning to clear the canopy door, thanks for the details and pics and agree the hex bolt head n an aluminium track is a bit under-done, I might end up adopting your idea regards the wider track piece

Ok I swapped out the new hose, took all of 10 minutes, then 2 hrs to burp it, it will need more for sure. Attacked the ammeter and short story, all 3 in the bin, the two replacements both faulty, starting to look at something else. Have developed a weird fault with reverse lights and will do a seperate post Nader electrical, chewed up another day, insulated the cooling hoses again under the bonnet, makes a massive different to the cooling circuit

Couple more upgrades. Billet gearbox shifter plate and machined brass shifter bush. The shifter is a bit notchy especially going into 5th. Its also a little sloppy in the 3 to 2 shift downwards, which can cause a missed change.Attachment 89205Attachment 89204