OK!! I have to share this with you mate.......Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Dont Hate me.....
Attachment 75839
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OK!! I have to share this with you mate.......Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Dont Hate me.....
Attachment 75839
Hey @mudski you should be doing all this in your Build thread mate. it took some finding here and will be lost forever. Even a special thread for the heater core. I reckon your build thread though mate.
Mark, guess there is always another way. Lot of aftermarket ones out there have the flow and return pipes welded into core/no flange and that what makes it harder.
They took the a/c box out. Degas and Regas will make this exercise even more expensive, I ain’t doing that. Besides, this has given me the opportunity to do some things that Ive wanted to do for a long time.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
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Got the sound deadening in. Well most of it. Stupid me bought not enough lol.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/07/128.jpg
The passenger side foot well I fell short.
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Yeah my build thread is buggered. A while back I had issues with imageshack or photobucket, cant remember, not bringing up photos. So in my wisdom I decided to delete all the pic and start uploading again. But I just made it worse, lol. Then I gave up. So, its gone. Maybe I should just start a new one.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
Start a new one mateQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
2 new 33 in maxxis MT tyres , probably a lot dearer here but no choice they were $380 each fitted and balanced
I forgot I had these. A GUIV clock spring and steering wheel radio switch for the GUIV leather wheel I retro fitted. Contemplating grafting this into the already modified clock spring I have.
Attachment 75842
Also more goodies today. Hi flow stat and New hoses, new spring load T bolt clamps and decent full stainless hose clamps that won’t destroy the rubber hoses.
Attachment 75843
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New set of wheel nuts all round, pulled the dash apart to get to the back of the radio. reception is fine in the metro area, then absolutely crap by the time I get 25k down the road. Found the antenna cable pulled out of the rear - no doubt I have managed to do that at some point when pushing cables around, so in it went. Still crackly on AM and does not pick up many channels, unsure what the problem is now. Also found the recently installed clock plug could be seated further in, so keen to see if that fixes the intermittent glow or not.
Good to see your resting that big toe of yours Phil, guess you are laying down on the floor with your foot up on the driver seat which is good.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
No rest for me! I am up and down ladders all day plugging cracks in the plaster and then prepping for painting. The truck is a sneaky activity when the wife goes to work! Looking at doing the front diff brace tomorrow morning and some other stuff on thursday.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
Do understand, I started building my house in 2003 and still happening (my stairway to heaven), the car mods and stuff are doing just fine. Haha but seriously now, just have to reallocate priorities too many diverse interests.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Oh yes, I nearly forgot, I am in recovery mode after my operation last week and no heavy lifting >5kg per arm(6wks), Going to colour match the IC scoop tomorrow.
When your done their Phil, come to my place mate. A house built in 73', had not been touched since, including the entire 1800sq/m of land. Plenty to do. But I love it.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Bought the patrol a new double din radio that should hook up to the reverse camera nicely
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/07/139.jpg
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Swapped the order of the sneaky stuff today, rewired my fuel system heaters on main, second, remote strainer and final filter, so finger crossed won't have the gelling issues like last year when camped in the snow. Brace goes in Saturday now.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
@mudski, I purchased a s/h compensator valve today and it feels entirely different to the one on the vehicle. The 'new one' travels full stroke to the factory set bolt head, and springs back to the bolt head when depressed - i am thinking mine is gunked or or something as it stops 5mm away from the bolt head, although it can be pulled back to the bolt head, but then springs back and away from it. Anyway, going to swap it over and see if there is any difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Yeah quite possible your is stuffed if thats the case. Be interesting to see the difference once fitted.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Colour matched (Base & clear coat), new JT cooler scoop, now a bit of compound then done. Waiting on JT cooler as had some extra boost port welded in.
Fitted LED h4 globes a couple of weeks ago. Finished doing LED indicator and park lights today to match it all in.
Replaced stock flasher unit with Narva one so no hyper flashing.
All working great. Happy with the outcome. Now to sort out the back end.
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Finally got around to fitting a Tillix set up. [emoji16]
Went to the P4x4 show and shine yesterday and I was the only car there without some form of manual boost control.
Safely set to 16psi and now has stable boost like it should of in the beginning.
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Good move.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast
Stock ECU then?
Tillix & needle, guess so?
Yes both needle and tillix
Needle is 1/4 out , max boost 16 psi.
No limp mode and is zippier than before
With 380,000k I don’t think it would be wise to push the boost any higher
Oh and yes stock ecu
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So a few ks there, DI (presume) or CRD?
2003 Di
Only mechanically work done has been a clutch at 330,000k
Has always done long trips between Adelaide and Geelong prior to me buying it off my sister. Now it’s my work car.
It used to tow a 21 foot van and has been around Australia.
We tow a small Jayco Hawk.
Now it’s had the tillix, egr done, swirl valve removed. K&n airfilter.
2 more things on my list to do.
Catch can and a larger exhaust.
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So you have a boost gauge and maybe not egt gauge yet, but egt probe a good idea when doing larger exhaust. These mods, as you probably realize, and especially the larger exhaust will provide a good run. These were very impressive for me (CRD). I now have ecu remap and Procharge stage 3. These mods you mention will provide a be very good result and value for money spent .
Are you thinking EGR plate?
Scan tool?
Are you holding 16psi maxB under load up hill (hauling) or just max boost when you give it a squirt?
Once I do the exhaust I plan to fit an EGT gauge, I have blocked the EGR with a plate.
I haven’t driven far yet to determine what the boost is doing. So far I have found that the max psi while driving is 16 and cruising at 80 is 10 psi
Till there is a load and it goes back up to 16.
I need to get on a road that’s 100 so I can see what pressure it sits on at cruise
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OK 10psi @ 80kpm look reasonable your cruise @100kph may sit around 12psi (maybe a little higher) at this needle setting. 1/4 turn would provide quite a responsive spool. Did you set needle @ idle, so the arm just lifted off stop and the maybe closed slightly?Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti's Beast
Your maxB can and should occur at revs > 2000rpm say in 3rd under load. Good if it can come on Max boost around 1800 rpm. Why I asked about your max boost under load (hauling) was because that is where you should set max boost (tillix) without getting limp. For DI max boost of 16 psi (hauling) without limp is good. Put a tow behind you may have to come back a bit on boost as the ECU may not be able to keep the fuel up to it. This is where a remap is of value. But as I said before the mods you are thinking of will be good.
Need to have a scan tool to manage and erase any fault codes.
When you do you exhaust, IMO block off egr at exhaust manifold as well (block both ends).
Cheers
Thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate it.
During the week I will give it a good drive and see how it all performs.
I just ran down and picked my daughter up from work. Admittedly it’s only 5 I each way but the car is much zippier
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Just gave it a bit of overdue TLC. Serviced it, put a filter kit through it. Thanks to @mudski for these kits !!
Also done Brake / clutch fluid. Also fitted up flexiblade wipers.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=76054&stc=1
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=76055&stc=1
Have ordered new tensioner and belt (CRD), and could not wait so took off fan belt and yes jokey pulley is loose as and squeals away like extremely dry/worn bearing. This might have been the grinding/meshing noise I have been occasionally hearing of late.
I also, sometimes hear a high pitched song (like file on edge of thin spinning disk) and it may not be my shinny SS induction whistle after all... hahaha.
Think I can rest assured now that the unwanted noise it is most likely my tensioner.... Will know when job done and but must say getting belt off (the first time) was easier that removing oil filter (removed no cowling, just rotated tensioner arm).
Welded out the front diff brace and modified the front pumpkin protector to suit, came up a treat, looking to do the rear next, however the kits all are fitted on the underside of the diff housing so will lose some obstacle clearance.
Did a maintenance run on the front and back winches today, in and out 3 times for good measure, found an issue with a dicky earth on the rear winch earth point, so stripped it apart, applied some conductive paste and bolted back together, all good.
Fabricated a h/d battery battery clamp for the rear 2 batteries, but allowed design for the third thats coming next month, boxed out the battery area with a plywood shelf and cut down one of the storage boxes to suit, came up well.Attachment 76056
@BidjaQuote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
CRD tensioners commonly fail.
During my 2 year ownership of a 2009 GU CRD, I have gone through two of them . First one failed after several mud holes and slowly began the whining song until it failed on me on a highway once... Nearly took out my other belts etc...
Second one failed after a river crossing up in the high country and I gambled my way home and it didnt fail. Lucky. Both were genuine units.
Yeah my first (@ 136k km, manual & had since new), live on a dirt road and travel them wet/muddy, do not do heaps of mud slurry swims but do water crossings. Guess have been lucky. Early on, thought I had a boost leak (high pitch whistle), but also have recently replaced 2 broken front exhaust studs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Did you experience the flowing type of noises?:
Over last 2 wks there has been an occasional grating/vibrating sound coming from font LHS (either like gears/syncro or brake caliper piston grabbing/vibrating against the pad backing shim plate). A month ago, I replaced rotors and pads and are working well. Initial noise may have been the pulley bearing showing first signs of excessive side slap wear and vibrating at particular loads (rapid de-acceleration into corners). Since Licola (gave it a wash) and now have the high pitch squeal that will quieten down after it warms up (say after 40km distance traveled) but comes back on at cold start up (stuffed bearing, has approx 1mm side slap with belt off and grinds away when U spin it).
Will be letting it sit in place until I install the new tensioner and belt (Genuine $260 of eBay). I have only the one flat ribbed belt but does look in good nick, will keep as a spare and rebuild the worn tensioner..
Hi John is just the bearing gone ? You can just replace that
If you look up Hug Flight belt tensioners you could do better than that price and with a new belt includedQuote:
Originally Posted by Sir Roofy
G'day Graig, you still happening there and this is soooo good mate. Just took a couple of days haha.
Thought I would buy a new tensioner, rebuild the current one and have as a spare.
Yeh had a look, OnLineAutoparts sell them, same guys that I bought my new genuine one off. Will check them out for pulley / bearing assy or just bearing will see which way to go when I change over. New one arrives Mon or Tues.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Roofy
Yes mate still alive to cold today to do the truck got the pump out have another to go in but the weather is against meQuote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
But I'll get there
With a possible ECU remap for you, check the link below out, can put a word in for you. What exhaust will U be using?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Roofy
https://ecpt.com.au/products-services/ecu-remapping/
Something to think about - Harley is the contact (email) to follow up. Postal remap $750 + postage (say $790) and 1-2 wk turn around. You remove ecu send to them direct and they post back. Good tune, you set boost/spool and all good (Max boost 20-22psi / AFR around 22:1). They turn off EGR as well.
With remap, IMO need to improve induction to allow turbo to breath easy.