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Cut a round hole on the dust collector body using a hole cutter and epoxy the moisture & dust bowl.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Use a high quality epoxy like JB Weld.
If the dust collector body is metal, you can also consider MIG welding.
But, that would make the job more time consuming, as you have to remove any paint on the welding area of the metal.
I think epoxy is the way to go.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130958110...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Hey Dom, thanks for the tips. I got a lot out of some of your other threads.
I am a bit short of lithium grease at the moment , (should be coming today) but the carby is already back on. I'm not sure I can be effed taking it off again.
I wasn't talking about the main air cleaner, but the pre filter (dust separator? the thing MN drew a pic of a few posts ago) and the piping from the wheel arch to it, and then to the air cleaner.
A few people seem to think it doesn't do much and it's not worth losing sleep over.
Buying the parts is $$$ ex Japan, because Nissan hates everyone.
I'll swing by a wrecker, if there's a decent one to grab I'll get it, otherwise some flexihose and clamps as recommended by another here.
Another option I am considering is a high-flow filter just jammed on somewhere to keep out the big stuff, leaves etc, then the main air cleaner for the rest.
I'm currently coming un-stuck with not being about to get the diff fill plugs unstuck.
Sort of bringing my adventure to a grinding halt to not be able to undo a few bloody screws.
Edit: Just called 4 parts places - no one carries fill/drain plugs. Can't afford to destroy them in the process....
Tried patrolapart for your diff plugs?
Unfortunately I can't get things delivered, as I'm not in any particular place, as it were.
I'd like to go there, but I am not sure if my route takes me through lilydale (lovely place, good pool hall) this time around.
Tried to get a high flow filter to use as a pre-filter today. Nothing in either 2 1/2" or 3 1/2" (the sizes of flange, depending on where it goes)
I feel like my new truck is being deliberately difficult when I specifically bought the old thing for its simplicity, and ease/cheapness of maintenance!
Lithium grease is preferred 'cos of the white colour as well as lithium in it. But, I reckon regular grease can do the job as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRoadRunner
Don't bother to pull the carby out if you've already put it back in.
Lithium grease is dirt cheap. It's usually the same price as normal grease.
The auxiliary filter you're referring to is not on my RB30 Patrol for years. It runs fine without it as far as I can tell.
I'm sure it's nice to have it, but if you don't have it, I wouldn't go to the length of chasing a one.
If you come across a one in a wrecking yard, go for it, otherwise don't worry about it, 'cos I don't think it's that critical.
Just make sure the main air filter seats pretty well and you clean it regularly.
I think that auxiliary filter is there to remove the dust and moisture from the intake air, 'cos the plumbing with it ends up fitting on
to the side panel of the vehicle. I reckon if you install a snorkel, it won't matter at all.(No it does matter, when raining & heavy dust)
Other than that, having it can help in allowing bit more cooler air into the intake from the side of the vehicle.
For removing the diff and gearbox drain and fill plugs, I made my own tool out of two bolts from hardware store(Bunnings)
There are two sizes. One for the diffs and the other for the gearbox.
Basically, get two bolts(10-14mm from memory) and cut them short(if they are long ones) & file the ends to square shape(drain
and fill bungs of the diff & gearbox are square shape)
Angle grinder or a file can do the job in no time. You can either measure the bung sizes from the diff & gearbox or just
grind/file while checking it by pushing into the bungs, until you get it right.
Doesn't take that long.
Factory tool that does the same job cost a fortune.
I couldn't justify paying that much for a tool that I only use once every five years or so.
Just make sure to remove the fill plug, before you remove the drain plug. It's not uncommon to find out the fill plug not budging after removing the drain plug and the oil. :)
If you are going pass Melbourne East, you can certainly borrow the above tool(s) I made.
After coming back from the Border track the dust/collector was chokkers with dust and the air filter was fairly clean. Also it acts as a suedo Hiclone:)
Yeah, Craig. No argument it is put there for a reason. How do you clean the dust collector?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Is it as easy as cleaning the main air filter?
Sorry, I was wrong about the dust collector being not useful with a snorkel. I guess dust and moisture/water collection cab be even more important
with a snorkel during dust storms & raining.
Come to think of it, I'll find mine from the shed somewhere and fit it in with new plumbing.
I do remember now, it was the badly deteriorated rubber plumbing caused me to remove it.
I usually pull housing out and clean it with hot soapy water and a brush. If I know I am going on a really dusty trip, I sometimes wipe the inside of the separator and air filter housing with a clean but oily rag. A lot of dust gets stuck to the oil and it is only a little work to clean it all.
I am sure it is all much of a muchness, but Lithium grease is all through my Hilux, so if I do it all the same, I don't have to try to remember in future.Quote:
Lithium grease is preferred 'cos of the white colour as well as lithium in it. But, I reckon regular grease can do the job as well.
Don't bother to pull the carby out if you've already put it back in.
Lithium grease is dirt cheap. It's usually the same price as normal grease
I think mine were all 1/2" square drive for the lot?Quote:
There are two sizes. One for the diffs and the other for the gearbox.
I will check and confirm....
Got (most) of the plugs out, with judicious use of levers, heat, and persuasion. It appears the last bloke loctite'd the plugs in.
Hoping I can get replacement plugs. I'm sure I can find the fill plugs. I might have to re-use the magnetic drain plugs (they're a bit less !"£$d in any case)
I was going to do the whole lot (Gearbox, Transfer case, & diffs) with Penrite 80w90. (Again, it's the same thing all through the lux & my mate's cars*, so I don't have to think about it and try to remember what goes where.)
*Except the bloke with a Jeep, because he's a sook.
Mine is a '94 and it uses Auto Transmission Fluid (ATF) in the transfer case.
Don't use any thread lockers. You can use a thin layer of silicon or teflon tape is even better.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRoadRunner
Rear diff is an LSD, so make sure you use LSD diff oil.
Why do you need replacement plugs??!! Old plugs are ok unless you've damaged them.
One does not simply removed glued in oil plugs....:rolleyes:Quote:
Why do you need replacement plugs??!! Old plugs are ok unless you've damaged them.
Yeah, it's a bad thing whoever put thread locker in there. Some of that hard goo will still be in the threads and it's pretty hard to remove them.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRoadRunner
No wonder you've had hard time undoing the plugs.
Just use all the nice words you can think of to curse at the previous owner. :)
Ah well, it's done now, and I've scraped as much crud as I can. Hopefully it'll be easier next time.
Now I'm off to find Mudnuts thread that tells me where the drain is for the coolant....
I think I'm up to my last shred of giving a damn before the next drive, so the last thing will be some grease.
I've done the main prop shafts / joints (no nipple on the front wheel drive coming from the transfer case??)
and the ball joints on the steering link/drag link.
Are there any other grease points I should know about/check?
wheel bearings? Not exactly a grease point, but worth checks.
I really don't feel like doing a wheel bearing. I think I'd rather not know :P
Yep. Don't fix it, if it ain't broken. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by RedRoadRunner
Just check for bearing play, noises, etc and adjust it accordingly. Saves you lot of trouble on long trips.
Went for a test drive....blew a coolant hose....
:smile:
Coolant hose?Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRoadRunner
Yeah, that's what I said :D
Anyway, it's 3/8 hose. I happen to have some 3/8 fuel line kicking around. Does anyone have a good reason why I can't replace it with that, and be on my merry way? (I did the ol' googly-goo, and theories differ wildly from "same $#!+ different label, go for gold" to "You might as well drive off a cliff, burn the wreckage, and take a dump on the ashes, you'll probably do less damage!" (exaggerated for effect)
Where exactly is the 3/8 hose?
Attachment 63411
Did that work?
Anyway, that's the fuel hose I've jammed on to for now (not that it does much at the moment, most of my brand new coolant is all over the ground), it goes from below the bleed screw to the intake manifold.
Maybe just a short term solution.
On what grounds?Quote:
Maybe just a short term solution.
Getting the "correct" hose is no drama. I am just curious what the difference is, I can't seem to find a straight answer.
I've heard of fuel turning the incorrect hoses tacky, which I guess is fair enough. Is there a reason I can't use any given hose for coolant?
It says 10 bar on it, so I guess it has some kind of pressure rating.
I would think that coolant and fuel act differently to the types of rubber that are used. I used to smear any grease I had on the connections of the water hoses, until it was pointed out to me, that grease is a hydrocarbon and will make the coolant hose rubber deteriorate. I now use a food grade grease on all of the coolant system joints. The coolant will be at around 100 degrees, so that may cause the fuel hose to harden, maybe.
I just use a very thin layer of silicone on coolant hoses. Yeah, I reckon vaseline is probably better than normal grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
for coolant hoses the best grease i've used is lube, its water based so no damage to coolant hoses.
lube? Where do you buy that from?Quote:
Originally Posted by garett
the adult shop......
damn...........:DQuote:
Originally Posted by garett
I might stick to Vaseline, I'm sure there's some somewhere.
I've kicked around manufacturers pages, while nothing explicitly states I can use fuel line as coolant hose, it doesn't say not to (it does say not to use coolant hose as fuel line)
The hose is apparently rated to 150 deg, and 1 Mpa
Now it's just on the principle of wanting to know the difference between the hoses/rubber types 8-)
It's safe to assume the composition of the rubber is slightly different to suit two different applications.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRoadRunner
Petrol can deteriorate rubber by reacting with it. So, it's imperative to use petroleum resistant rubber for fuel lines.
Coolant lines have to deal with high pressures, higher heat & any chemical compositions antifreeze/antiboil coolants and other chemical additives may come with.
Coolant hoses can withstand pressure & heat, while the fuel hoses can withstand effects of petroleum over time.
So, it's safer to use the correct type hoses for the coolant and fuel lines and not to get them mixed.
In an emergency situation, you use whatever available to you, is a different thing.
Yeah, I'm just trying to work out what the differences are, I know they are there - inner composition, strength of reinforcement, out composition etc.
So apparently fuel line (commonly?) has acrylonitrile and butadiene, which are the fuels/fats/oils/ resisting natures.
I found this chart from Goodyear - http://www.hosecon.com/pdf/engineeri...rchemchart.pdf
I'll have to play some brand-name comparo silly buggers work out what they mean by half of it, (it has annexes that help with this, so that is nice of them)
Okay, as far as I can tell, the fuel hose I have (Flexwing Petroleum equivalent) is suitable for continuous use with ethylene glycol. The only issue I can see is possibly a pressure rated. it is rated as "low pressure" but it is also rated at 1200kpa, so the definition of "low" is on an unspecified scale.