vacuum hose going to otherside of needle valve.. solenoid currently blocked off.. will take some pics tomorrow.. maybe I've missed something?
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vacuum hose going to otherside of needle valve.. solenoid currently blocked off.. will take some pics tomorrow.. maybe I've missed something?
HI MH have you tried stretching the dawes spring a tad, bare in mind its hard to "UN" stretch,
not impossible though. You can get heavier springs from somewhere to suit the dawes
Havnt tryed stretching the spring yet... Thought it would be ok as its brand new...
Not always thats why someone, Darren Dawes I think supplies
a heavier spring to allow more boost to be screwed in
Here's couple pics of how iv got it setup... Maybe some one can correct me if I've done it wrong or missed something...
Attachment 59318
3 ports on solenoid blocked... Line coming off airbox to front of needle valve...
Attachment 59319
This pic shows t piece.. One hose coming frm needle valve... The other coming frm vac pump wiv green inline filter and the third going to Dawes valve..
Attachment 59320
The black hose going streight onto the Dawes valve is the black hose coming off the t frm the needle valve... The 2nd hose at the 90 degree angle is going back to the actuator... And the rear port if the Dawes valve is going to a t piece.. One side goes to intercooler pipe showed in pic below and the other to the boost gauge...
Attachment 59321
Have I missed anything... Havnt tyres stretching the spring just yet but might give it a go...
If I adjust my needle valve will it adjust my power delivery curve? Will get close to full boost (15-18psi) just over 2000rpm... But after that it's like nothing happens ... By the time I get to just over 3000rpm I'm seeing a solid 20 pound on the gauge... I'm wanting to make the power curve bigger say frm 1k to 3k then for it to drop off after that... At the moment it's going frm arnd 1000rpm to just over 2000rpm.. Theres the slowest pickup between 2-4k in rpms...
Everything is hooked up right. Adjusting the needle valve will affect the boost curve, I would close off the needle valve more and try that. It seems that the needle valve is still open a tad too much maybe. Don't stretch the spring. Your Dawes has the stronger spring in it already.Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
I have been/ was trialing a 1mm larger ID hose to the boost side of the Dawes and I saw slightly better results. PM me you details mate and I'll send you a metre of it to try. If you want to try a new spring I also sell them too, but i don't think this is your issue.
Cheers mudski... Will have a play around with the needle valve and see what happens.. It's currently more closed than open... Not to sure what's going on with the Dawes valve.. All looks good but I've got it wound right in til there's no more thread... It drives ok but it feels like as soon as it reaches 15psi it maxes out.. Like u can put your foot right to the floor and nothing happens? Feels like it's not only restricting boost but overall power... Thanks for the offer with the larger Id hose... If I can't get it set up how I want it.. Il be getn a diesel smart actuator set to 24psi... Herd they go alright... Also looks at one of there smart xt modules.... At e moment my egts are really low... And the 250 mark...
open the dawes valve up to about a good 1/4'' or a tad more and work back from there just a bee,s d ck at a time will take a while unless you snag it first upQuote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
Yo MH what type of vacuum hose are you using, its not collapsing on you.
just throwing stuff out there, seems EFI fuel line works a treat, only 25c a mtr
Some of the fancy silicon stuff is shite
Dont bother about the DS actuator yet mate. I read on the other forum a few with it and reckon it was shite. Dunno how true that is though...When your running higher boost levels you need the needle valve shut almost right off. Mine was only open just the slightest bit, when running 25psi. Open a smidge too much and it was crap to drive. just send me your details bud. I'll get it off tomorrow and you will have it by early next week...You got nothing to lose...Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
@ John. If the vacuum hose was collapsing, he would see very erratic boost rises. As shutting off the needle valve does this, which is on the vacuum side...
Also try this. As Roofy had a similar issue too from memory. The T fitting in the top of the Dawes was leaking on his. See if yours is sealed properly. If not or unsure, try so seal it up with some good glue or sometihng, just incase its got a leak from there. I'm starting to run out of idea's.
turbo's not pumping any oil is it? Impellor still nice and tight?
Had another play around wiv it.. still having trouble trying to set it right... noticed it went a bit better if i pissd of the green vacume filter... does anyone knw which ports go to what for standard configeration at the boost solanoid... tryna figer out if its my dawes valve why i cnt get it to boost over 18-psi... also the more i open up the needle valve the less boost i see on the gauge.. if its opened up then it will bearly see 3 psi? Heres a pic of boost solanoid.. what goes where frm left to right.. in standard configeration...thnx
Attachment 59335
Yes that correct. The more you open the needle valve, your boost will drop also. Close off the needle valve right shut mate. Then only open it a little and see. Like i said. High boost levels, you will need to have the needle valve almost closed.
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ye thats how I've had it set. closed then open it till arm drops away then close it till arm jus touches grub screw... hay mark do u knw what hoses go to what ports for standard setup?
Here is a diagram (by Chaz Yellowfoot) of the standard set up.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...id=59337&stc=1
Actually, looking at it now I think you are running a hose straight off the Air Filter Resonator. That might be the problem. Set it up as in the diagram and give it a go.
I thought the needle valve comes off resonator for clean air supply? Tryed in that configuration and the boost gauge was spiking.. tryed it back wiv inline filter off vac line and needle plumbd into resonator and still spiking but feels better to drive.. lol.. things doing my head in.. and why and hw can my boost spike if ive got a dawes valve? Just wana triple chek something. The ball bearing goes into the backside of dawes valve then spring then screw threads back togther... and i have needle valve setup wiv the line from resonator to the side were theres a 18 etched into it.. so on the top blue nob right is tighten and left is losen... either in missing something or its not working like its suppose to. Or both. Lol...
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Attachment 59342
Anyone knw what goes where in standard form.. i cnt remembr... one frm turbo actuator and ones frm vac pump n then other goes frm the solanoid back to resonator air box? Just cnt member which goes to which?
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The pic rock trol posted, go by this for the standard setup. Its just the dawes in that pic with no needle valve, so it basically Tees in the line from the controlerto turbo.
When you put a needle valve in the mix. One end on the needle valve goes from the air resonator box and the other to the small T. And then so on.
Going by your pic MH your is setup right.
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The arm on the turbo actuator adjuster has a painted section on it. So you know if someone has adjusted it. Can you tell if yours has been played with?Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet_hunter
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Theres yellow paint marker ontop by grub screw nothing on the actually arm i dont think.. will take a pic and post it up tomorrow...
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Yeah where you can adjust the arm i mean. If the two paint lines dont match up, its been played with before. If so it might be a contributing factor...
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Im about to change all my boost hoses to
some that have spring loaded clips on them
Turbo actuator looks ok? Finally after playn with the dawes n needle valve all day the best i got it is boostn arnd 17psi... no bouncing of boost on the gauge.. smooth linear power delivery... wil just have to keep it like this until i get that ecu talk gauge off ya mudski... i think i might have a faulty tps hence why it wont boost as high and feels slugish even when i jump on it.. plus yhe randm idle up issues...just easier to trouble shoot everything... also been lookn into getn diesel smart xt module.. 25kw increase at the wheels.. eliminates limp mode.. has timing control over ip pump and 5 preset tunes... and maybe put on one of there acutators aswel... get rid of the whole vac system altogethr... more $$$.. dont knw which is more exspensive 4 wheel drives or old school v8s...[emoji12]
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2015/07/29.jpg
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Dont believe the hype of a sellers power percentage gains. Even with reputable performance chip sellers. Take it with a grain of salt.
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It pretty much does everythng i wnt it to do.. piss of limp mode issues.. add extra fuel.. has the throtle pedal mod.. control over injector pump.. and 5 pre set tunes. And stil cheaper than unichip...and only need to tap into one wire on the injectir pump.. rest is plug n playy...
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@ MH its a 3lt Turbo diesel for crying out loud, how fast do you expect to go.
They are highly strung from the factory, might be chasing your tail,
you might be better of slotting a LS1 in it, lol
Haha i just wnt it boostn hrd like it was befor.. lol.. and yes ls1 conversion would most likey be on the cards if n when pin drops...
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Quick update.. turns out loss of power was due to faulty maf sensor... 2ndly big shout out to mudski/mark for helpn me out by sending me a spare couple of maf sensors to test out... seriously top bloke.. always willing to help out fellow forum members like myself.. legend in my books... cheers mate people like u do this forum proud..
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So which one worked? I dont mind helping others out. I know the feeling when you've tried just about everything and don't know what to do next.
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One with grease on the o ring...
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