bad luck mate, oh well unfortuantely youve done all you could. you bit of feedback will actually hurt them in the long run, if the gives you a little bit of closure lol.
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Saw the exact same oven on 'SPECIAL' for $50 at the Outdoors Expo on the weekend. So much for show 'SPECIALS', glad I got mine three years ago.
Update.....
Sometimes it pays to be a pedantic pri@k. I wouldn't accept a refund and said to Trickie Dickies that they should send me one in good faith after all the crap that has ensued. So they have. Just received an email stating the stove will be shipped by Toll today, seems they have stock after all (just not any to send to the stores to pickup). So when (if) I get it, it'll have cost me $15.79 (as they didn't charge me for freight). Nice to see there are some people still willing to provide customer service.... :)
nice win mate!!
Just tried it out. The inside gets hot very quickly as does the wiring. I would have expected the wiring to be at least 15A rated, looks more like 10A. I guess there's a wiring modification coming up.......
Anderson plug is a bit of an overkill. A merit plug would be ample for these.
Modded the oven. Used 6mm twin and an Anderson plug. Overkill I know, but at least the cabling doesn't get warm now (never mind hot) and I used an Anderson plug because I had spares and my battery box is set up with more Anderson plugs than Merit. Now to get a timer for it...... :)
OK, just for you...lol
Think I'll scrape that silicone off and use some black stuff. Mod is easy to do.
[1] Use a small screwdriver and lever out the bung that the existing wire goes through.
[2] Pull the excess wire out of the unit and you will notice a joint on each wire covered in heat shrink. Remove the heatshrink. The wires that go to the "heater" are a smaller diameter than the lead-in but mine are solid core and don't get as hot as the lead-in does.
[3] Unsolder both joints noting polarity (not sure if it matters with the heater, but you never know). On my unit, the wire with the white trace is the +ve lead.
[4] Remove the lead-in from the bung, I had to cut it to achieve this. I then drilled a 7mm hole to allow for the bigger gauge wiring.
[5] Strip about 75mm off the outer insulation of the 6mm twin core. Thread the red and black wires through the 7mm in the bung until the twin core is flush against the outside of the bung. Place a small cable tie around the red and black wires flush with the inside of the bung.
[6] Cut a suitable length of heatshrink and place on the solid core wires. Make sure it's big enough to slide over the joint after it's soldered.
[7] Solder each wire making sure you have a good electrical joint. Slide the heatshrink over each joint and heat.
[8] Push the wiring back inside the oven and replace the bung.
[9] Terminate the other end on the connector of choice. In my case, an Anderson plug.
Note: The original wiring came with a 15A inline fuse. As this oven will connect to my battery box, the fusing is done there so there is no need for an inline fuse for my setup. Always make sure you fuse this oven some how.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...015/06/248.jpgIMG_0881 by Bob Howard, on Flickr
very nice mate!
I just gave mine a test run the other day. IT heats up way faster than my other one, albeit the smaller model. The wires got warm but not hot. I think I will change the wires though. I have some 4mm twin core, still bigger than whats on there. So I will do a temp install with the 4mm and see what its like.
Dont you think it would warm up differently with a tin of baked beans or other food in it.
as the heat would need to transfer into the food,? I brought mine in the big
sale of 2014 and still haven't used it , lol
Easily......
I tried using it but when the connection and the wires got so hot quickly I got a tad worried so would love to know how the change to 4mm and 6mm go
Just tried my oven. Put a frozen sausage roll and a party pie in it. Ran it for 50 mins. The only thing that got hot was the oven. Wiring didn't get warm at all, 6mm might be overkill, I would think 4mm is enough, but you gotta use what you have....lol
Oh and the sausage roll and pie were perfect.... :)
Best $16 I've spent in a while......
Bloody good idea. Plenty of room for it too. Just took the two aluminium trays out and all there is on the top is a piece of batt type insulation, same with the bottom one although that has the connection to the peltier.
Might look at this one:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-60W-T...item2a49e63f0e
and maybe improve the insulation a bit..... :)
Mate, that's a top idea and for a few bucks can't go wrong bonus is all up it will still be less than $20.
Did some measurements on it using a 12v battery (no engine running). It pulls 13 amps for about the first minute, it then settles down and pulls between 7 and 8 amps and pretty much stays there. I'll try it for an hour and see if it varies much. It would be interesting to find out which peltier they put in it as it seems results vary a lot, on some (like mine), the original wiring gets very hot, others don't...
I'm going to power this oven via a timer, sort of set and forget. Looking at something like this.....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/371220962...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Its only a small Peltier I reckon. The 40W one I have here is twice in size. Unless you can get long and narrow Peltiers. As they use something long a narrow in these ovens.
Does the timer make a "ding!" when it runs out of time? Lol.
Yeah it's a long narrow one but it still pulls a lot of current, after running it for 70 mins, it was still pulling 6 amps which at 12.2v is approx 73w. Assuming it is a Peltier as there doesn't seem to be a cold side and there's no fan to get rid of the cold air.
Nor sure if the timer makes a ding but it has a pretty blue led...... :)