Ponderosa mustangs is where I go it from its the lob sensing type not the type that has the magnetic rig and requires the dizzy to be machined down..Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
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Ponderosa mustangs is where I go it from its the lob sensing type not the type that has the magnetic rig and requires the dizzy to be machined down..Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Which was faulty the ignighter or the coil?
Ha! I got mine from ponderosa too! Mine is the ignitor 2, hall effect (magnetic ring). And it was the ignitor module that was faulty. How long have you had yours fitted?
Tap, crackle, pop
Had it about 2 months now. started noricing the miss a few weeks backQuote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
which had the price on the windscreen of 8990... So straight off 7K out of pocket.
OUCH! I bought my 91 GQ td42 recently for 3600 with 320K on it and another 300 for bushes and filters and this sled has been unstopable in the bush:)(Go's up hills in the scub like a Billy goat,tracks are for them other people),blows no smoke and is a dream...
Just sayin...
you made my day thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by oilpond
Sorry Bro was just sayin...Quote:
Originally Posted by ckh
mine started missing as soon as i fitted it. I got new leads, then new plugs, then changed my coil back to the original one but still no change. Then i got the test instructions from the seller and found that the module was faulty so i sent it back. It took 4 WEEKS to get there and apparanlty the replacement was to be sent back yesterday. The seller reckons the failure rate is about %1..... I thought, well, if he sells 100 a month (at a guess) then thats 1 unhappy customer per month.Quote:
Originally Posted by ckh
Hey mate - just to reiterate what has been said earlier - it is not a lemon. As soon as you put a car on the road it starts to wear out - hopefully not too quickly but component wear happens the first time you drive it. I would get it checked over then make a list of the fixes you want to apply and then do any unnecessary (but wanted!) mods after that.
Jas
Was yours the Lobe sensing type?Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckh
Tap, crackle, pop
Swapped back over to points today, and appart from noticably being harder to start, the miss is still there so have put the ignighter back in so at least it will start a bit easier.... So its looking like a burnt falve or cracked head........Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Hmm, that's no good. Is your coil working correctly?
Tap, crackle, pop
if I take one of the plug leads off the dizzy I can hold it 3/4-1 inch away from the dizzy and get a good blue spark... So am assuming coil is throwing plenty of spark and working proper..Quote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Now its starting to miss onn the highway every now and then feels like I've tapped the brakes, or it will cough and carry on then come good again.. I suppose if the damage is done its only going to get worse before i fix it and hopefully get better then....
Have you given it a compression test?
The intermittent miss in my 89 turned out to be the auto choke spring failing and causing it to come on randomly and flooding the engine, causing it to miss.
The missing at idle is constant, my ears prick up and I nearly smile of it goes for 5-10 seconds with out missing, check the auto choke but is fully open when warm.. have also noticed the angine doesnt increase in revs like it used to when I put the air con on, if anything it drops the revs further...Quote:
Originally Posted by GUtsy ute
1. its got an auto choke.
2. Timing has been set at 10 BTDC have tried it at 5 and at 15 made no difference.
3. no bubbles in coolant when radator cap off, not loosing any coolant either.
3.5 no using oil appart from the little usual bit of smoke when first started in the morning
4. have check oil filler cpa an clean as
have tried champion and another named brand plug, but dont want to spent a fortune on the iridium plugs yet, as if I have to replace the head its going to break the bank .
5 have replaced plugs, dist cap, leads, even tried going back to points yesterday incase it was the pentrix ignighter, but same miss
6 replaced fuel and air filters after running all the cleaning stuff mentioned below
7 yesterday arvo tacho was jumping all over the place, and car ran real bad, found bolt that holds dizzy in place when adjusting timing had stripped out, so replaced with another bolt and reset timing, tacho behaving now, except for the slight movement when it misses, but the miss is still there.
Thinking it was crap in the carbo or contaminated fuel last week as for the past month had been running cheap fuel from 7/11 in it, ran it near empty on friday, and filled with BP ultimate, and added every fuel cleaner, carby and injector clean and octane booster i could buy from repco and supercheap, over 120 dollars in additatives in total. since then been filling up with either bp ultimate or shell optimax, fuel consumption is now 20.49/100 on that first tank of good stuff, then 18.03/100 on the second and filling up this morning was 17.56/100, have been giving the aircon a bit of a hiding as its been very hot up here in Ipswich and brisbane..
One thing I have noticed as when I turn the aircon on the rev's dont go up like they used to if anthing it drops the revs a little...
Ok, how's the brakes? With the aircon issue it sounds like the vacume (if it has it) may have a hole in the system.
In my Q the vac pump is on the back of the alternator. Not sure f your timing runs off the same vacume or if its independent. Worth a look
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Just did the test a few people have said to to, started the car up in the dark and looked for sparks, none to be found or at least seen....
I'm guessing you used a timing light to set TDC at idle, did it advance further when you increased rpm?
To me its sounding like a vacuum issue.
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Yes to timing light, and yes to engine advancing when I rev itQuote:
Originally Posted by Westy's Accessories
Brakes stop car fine, but there is a squeal in the pads... why?Quote:
Originally Posted by Westy's Accessories
brakes use vacuum to operate properly. I think he was asking to see if there was a vacuum issueQuote:
Originally Posted by ckh
have done as a few have suggested, pulled out the flame thrower and put origional coil back in, its still got a miss, did some googling. a test for a burnt valve is to put ya hand over the exhaust pipe and if there is any sucking rather than blowing its a sign of a burnt exhaust valve... tried that and was flat out keeping my hand over the exhaust, kept trying to blow hand off..
Am going to a guys place this arvo to try his GT40 coil and see if that makes a difference
Yea brakes are assisted by vacuum that's why I asked. I'm still leaning towards a vacuum issue. Because your aircon choke is vacuum assisted aswell.Quote:
Originally Posted by ckh
Simple test. Find your vac lines and test for suction.
Your brakes have a dedicated line so its good that there working.
Have a poke around, you might find an issue
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Just had it to a cylinder head specialist, he sais I definatly have a valve problem, he will supply recond head plus all the gaskets and new bolts for 1100 if I do the job myself, or for him to do it basically 2 K and he would need the car for 4 days or so. reading though the manual, I recon I could get the head off and new one one with in a day........ doesnt read as being that hard to do...
That's a bugger mate. Did he pressure test and compression test?
Tap, crackle, pop
No he didnt test anything just listened to the missQuote:
Originally Posted by taslucas
Got a mate who will put a perfectly running motor in mine, including ignition and carby, motor will cost me 1K but his mechanic mate says I should get at least ten years out of it if I look after it, so 1 K for the motor and for him and his mate to install it they want my motor to do up.... Considering its going to cost 1100 for a recon head for me to fit my self, and if that aint the problem a carby recon for god knows how much, they say this motor is good, new water pump, new fuel pump only fault with it is the power steering pump has a slight weep, so they are going to put my power steering pump on it, he said to turn up at his place on a sat morn in a few weeks and I'll be driving it home that afternoon/evening...
If I was you l'd take the second motor, but not for $1000.
Then strip yours down and slowly rebuild it completely. If your keen snail it aswell..
Then once completed swap them back and sell on the old motor, or recon it to and sell it.
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Ok got the ruff idle and missing at speed sorted, turned out to be 2 bqad sets of plugs and a earth wire. runs smooth as now, but have been doing the trick where you put a piece of paper against the exhaust pipe and if it gets suckd in at allit meand a burnt or buggered exhqaust valve, I know I need to replace my exhaust and gasket as when a mate held his had over it yesterday you can hear it hissing around the exhaiust manifold, is there much credability to the piece of paper test? when I hold my hand over the exhaust I can feel presure trying to blow my hand away but cant feel it sucking.. so I'm hopeing I have fixed my engine problems, unless someone can varify the paper test means means a valve is shot. now just need to sort my car shaking at 90K's and I'll have a good truck.. unless my valves are shot and i got to replace the head!!!!
Plugs and an earth wire.......
That's a damn lot better than an engine swap!!
Good to hear it's sorted:-)
Tap, crackle, pop
Great stuff.. there ya goes. Pays just to fiddle sometimes..
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
Glad you got rid of the miss without breaking the bank.
Out of my depth here, talking about electronlc ignition.
Does the Petronix system use the standard rotor?
If so, the modification to extend the end of the rotor to decrease the gap between it and the
terminals in the distributor cap gives a much better spark.
You can buy them on E-bay or do it yourself.
Type( extended rotor button) into the search bar.
Quite a few threads on it.
Cheers.
Yep the pertronix uses the same rotor. You're probably better off keeping the original rotor instead of going for the extended. I fitted a pertronix 2 ignitor and found I had the extended rotor. I'm thinking of swapping back to the original rotor. The idea is that if you have the standard points and coil it helps to extend the rotor so that the spark jumps across easier but with aftermarket ignition and a better coil there is a whole lot more available power and you get a bigger spark when it jumps the standard gap between rotor and dissy capQuote:
Originally Posted by GUtsy ute
Tap, crackle, pop
I knew I was out of my depth!!LOL
The tyre power guy said he did all that.. going to a mates placew tomorrow and trying a completely different set of rims and tyres, it that solves or improves things, I'll know my tyres or wheels are out of round.. Today when driving on a perfectly flat bit of freeway it felt like i was on a coragated dirt road,, my Mate is also going to have a look to see if anything else stands out like a sore thumb, I'm so glad I met "scaredgq " Andrew on a forum, he's a top block and knows his stuff when it comes to gq's, I'm still in awe as to what he has done to his and its only running on gas, would make most V8's be imbarrased...
if you do a google for exhaust sucking air you will find plenty of the yanks etc testing for burnt valves using paper or a dollar bill, from motor bike engines though to 4-6 and higher cylinder engines..
This is what me and Andrew got up to on thursday arvo
"Hi matti- we spent about three hrs dickin around with electrics/timing,didnt swap plugs because mine are the 6's for gas.I would describe the issue as more of a hesitation at idle when warm and didnt miss under load when we drove it.has champion plugs atm and they were a tan colour.It did smell rich at idle.I am now thinking maybe a carby issue as today it is reportedly playing up worse-timing at about 12 deg,reved nicely from idle yesterday.Next thing we will do is leak test-will put about 100 psi air into each cylinder at tdc-valves closed and see if it has air coming from exhaust/carby or internally,will also check for bubbles in coolant.I dont think it is a valve issue but the head coming off or motor swap will be last on list.Motor and car seem in immaculate condition,looks like a well maintained vehicle,newish looking radiator,dosent look like its been offroad.I know this means nothing at all but makes me think its a small issue.Tappets are going to be reset warm at .40,plugs changed.have access to a carby on a running motor that runs perfect which will try after leak test.Another thought is manifold leaks but i think trying the leak test should point us in right direction.What is your views /opinion on this after yr experience with yr head change etc."
Even though I back to fuel usage of 15-19l/100 K's with all the dramas I'm having with this auto a mate is trying to source a gq with a manual in it and do a swap with mine, as he desperatly wants my gq for its body, I know to a degree its a down grade considering what this thing has cost me so far, but I want smething reliable and that isnt going to constantly stress me out, should I keep what I got as my mate says I'd be hard up to find another with a body like mine, or should I cut my losses and do a swap...
Don't let any of your dodgy 'mates' near it.......