Fun times mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
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Fun times mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk
New gen water pump on the way.
Superior Engineering captive engine mt arrived.
Rear gen main seal arrived.
NPC 6x6 clutch arrived.
just waiting on turbo kit now.
had a new carrier and fork for clutch for a short while
Turbo kit just turned up, with a new set of injectors.
now the down side, going away next week.
no time to install new clutch and break it in, in time to, fit kit and tune beforehand.
arrh,
nar, heads up, future looking bright for Pat.
The days finally here.
Removing engine to fit new ---
Front and rear main seals.
clutch, water pump.
humm was going to fit new turbo also, but new clutch needs time to bed in-
"before power up" might leave that for later I think.
various other jobs on the list.
port exh manifold, injectors , thermostat,
new alternator,old one just dropped voltage 2 days ago.
F@##@k I just broke my good reading glasses,
The harmonic balancer nut measures 55 mm is that correct ??.
my set stops at 50mm, need a new socket I guess.
Doing just about all the work alone, any tips ??????.
Yes 55mm for crank nut.
If doing rear main would be best to do sump gasket as well as it generally gets disturbed when changing the rear main.
Just put the turbo on. Hell of a lot easier with the donk out. The 6x6 should be fine mate. Also if you can I would recommend taking some weight out of the flyhweel. Will make it much smoother.
Thanks,Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
while its out, was going to remove the sump, make sure no surprises in there, general clean up .
you called it, but I wasn't sure on the clutch and bedding it as the new turbo afr would be out of wack.
drive it easy for a short while, talked me into it , didn't really want to do it later any way.
f/wheel weight,
Smoother don't ya mean,more responsive?.
weight watchers how much do ya recon off ?
Gasket or silicon for the sump ??Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Yes more responsive which will make it feel smoother to drive. If you can aim for 1.5-2kg much more than this will require significant machine time. Also get he clutch and flywheel assembly balanced.
I use a gasket with a smear of loctite 515.
Thankyou BroQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Had a few hick ups visitors and what not.
Engines out and on stand ready for attention.
bit busy this week, see what happens!.
Here's some pics of how to go about it with limited room under a car port and still remain able to roll car out of the way etc.
Its so low the engine hoist touches the tie rod bar but just slides under my g/box support bracket.
The box support I made last time I had GQ TB engine out, it'a a straight bolt up for GU also.
Ya don't have to worry about a jack under car.
I made a similar bracket for my GTR except with tabs welded on, then able to bolt up to g/box for real support,then tilt tray car 100k to work shop.
Using the steel wheels also gives more room to move hoist around and allows it in closer & in a retracted position for a larger swl , just that bit safer.
Ya have to have alot done before you lower the car this much but it's worth the effort.
Attachment 61952Attachment 61953Attachment 61954
Hummm,
so how do you remove the collet lock from harmonic balancer and crank??
Are you looking for somewhere to put a puller on? Don't. When I did my timing case seal, I gave it a few desent hits with a soft face hammer and then wiggle it out.
Nar not looking for a puller.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Can clearly see that wouldn't work against a taper lock.
I searched & searched for "collet lock solution" gave up.
I worked out in the end.
Used a bit of pipe with ID a bit larger than the taper lock.
Placed it around the taper, tap tap, and of it all came.
Little shock around the taper did the trick.
Thanks for the input.
cheers
TD42 crank pulley fitting is totally different to TB45.
You did well if you found a tube the right diametre. I used a 25mm brass drift and just went around a few times between the bolts until it loosened.
It's advised to make sure you get the taper lock seated in place with a drift and not try to push it into place with the nut.
You'll clearly hear when it's back as far as it will go.
I was initially advised to just put the nut level with the thread and give the crank end a good whack but I couldn't bring myself to do it.. :)
Got the exh manifold off, it looks to be fairly well port matched going by the exhaust residue and how the gaskets match up to ports.
Only a small amount of port machining to do, to get it humming along better.
time to try the new tools out, last die grinder gave out.
What could I expect to pay for machining 1.5 kg off the flywheel & balance assembly ?.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Not sure but its not a big job and would only take an hour or less for someone to do it on the latheQuote:
Originally Posted by Robo
So Iv'e made about 30 phone calls and looked @ numerous web pages.
who in the hell machines weight off flywheels and balances them in NSW.
Around the newcastle to sydney radius.
I'm in the middle of that area.
Humm, for us beginners to this mod,
what is mirror balance ?
and neutral balance ?
Have you tried and engine rebuilders? They generally have the tooling for the lighten balance.
It will just be a zero balance mate. Will be difficult to do a mirror balance without opening the engine.
I believe, and correct me if i'm wrong, mirror balance is where they match the harmonic ballancer and the flywheel together on the engine as a rotating assembly and a neutral/zero balance is when they just balance the flywheel on it's own (or including the clutch assembly)Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
Machine shops and clutch shops but not engine rebuilders.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Ah I'll ring the fellar who rebuilt my GTR engine in the morning.
don't know why I didn't think of that first lol.
Engine builder advises me not to machine weight off cast fly wheel.
"They are prone to breaking once altered".
get a billet was his advise.
ok another hickup,
well I'm saving heaps and getting lots done for the dollars ratio.
so bit more time off the rd won't kill me.
gotta stay positive, bit more research.
Also the front input seal on gear box, its a FS5R50B
apart from needing a new cover gasket.
Is there any reason I can't remove front cover to replace this seal ??.
I don't really want a snow ball affect, but it makes sense to replace while engine is out.
Interesting. There are many high powered tds with lightened standard flywheels running around without an issue. Some with upwards of 700nm.
Yes just pull the retainer out and replace seal and gasket even input bearing if your keen.
Ok input seal taken care of thanks.
Thought I may run into a issues with end play clearance tolerances if I replace just the gasket.
what about the self sealing bolts? reuse with sealer or just replace.
Front g/box input bearing slips off easily?.
Engine builder is hi performance/hi rev tech builder.
have taken that as a err on the side of caution given his usual build specs, 6k+ rev band.
but 2nd 3rd opinion is always worth considering.
I'm more interested in the harmonics of flywheel & crank with increased torque spread over low rev band.
think its a wise idea to lighten a little going by what Iv'e read here, en there.
Again old mav has alot of useful yrs of knowledge and wisdom.
I know my torque figures aren't up there but I'm building for longevity.
Porting the std header??.
I ve just finished porting the header inlet
the twin ports of the exit is a very crude looking area.
Is it worth removing material to form a so called "knife edge " on it's exit ??.
Oh, just put front & rear seals, sump gasket, water pump and harmonic balancer back on.
some progress at last.
Front g/box input , vac pump and lower thermostat fitting seals ordered all gen parts and good prices.
that's for preventive maintenance while engines out.
Will look at input bearing while front covers off and get a new one also.
no gasket for that according to manual it's silicon sealed.
Finally found a shop fairly close, Duncan and Foster in Blacktown, that can machine and bal the flywheel, also well priced.
Approx $300 to lighten, surface grind and balance.
Also found a work shop Westend Performance in Campbelltown who can balances the complete rotating assembly, harmonic to flywheel as a unit.
This evening got board so reconditioned the 2 water fittings from thermostat housing.
Save $30 bucks I suppose.
but its more like, I like to do it myself.
Will now get another few yrs out of them.
lightly sand blasted the ends to remove scale
Wire wheel stripped the gunk off.
This gives a smooth shinier surface, which plates better.
I could of filled the pits with solder but didn't feel like it, and they are not that badly pitted.
ya then scrub clean with sugar soap mix to remove any residue.
Rinse off.
Then plate the zinc back on about an hr.
Another wash and rinse.
Then dip in goldbrite to give the goldish coloured finish.
Hang to dry. diy.
Attachment 62303Attachment 62304Attachment 62305Attachment 62306Attachment 62307
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
Ordered a Preluber kit while the engine upgrade is happening.
all depends how long it takes to arrive ex US.
Stored oil pressure is automatically released via oil pressure switch port before the engine starts when key is turned to aux.
that'll add yrs to the engines life.
Attachment 62376
would 3/8th bsp to 10mm hose barb in copper be better as in longer lasting as it cant rust.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robo
just saying.
Where do you buy copper ones? The only ones I know of are the brass ones but they are no better than the ones which come with the engine?.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Yeah the idea of weak fittings, any stray current or poor inhibitor is present, then they are supposed to become a sacrificial anode.
and save the expensive cast alloy fittings, well its a theory anyway but makes sense to me.
But hey I bought the kit yrs ago and did alot of bits on the GTR.
the goldbrite comes in handy.
I just replaced the fuel rail as removing the old injectors twisted & broke it.
the new oem rail was only zinc plated unlike the original one.
give it a clean and rinse and dip in goldbrite and rinse.
and it will stay looking new for a long time.
I also ordered some of those alloy brazing rods tmh2000 (or something like that).
low temp rods for repairing the slight damage on the lower thermo fitting, save over $200 for something else.
Geeze this thing will be showroom spec once done..
That's also a pretty good price on the flywheel mod..
Nar , it's just alot of work over a short period of time.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
But the td's are worth it hay!.
About to go and pickup f/wheel this morning, getting stuck in this-arvo.
"Back On the Rd again" Real soon.
Still gunna be a nice ride..
All these builds going on and mines going backwards makes me sad.... :(
Its all horses for courses, ahh fairly sure you've got a few things sorted that I haven't.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggqwesty
chasing a bit extra for pulling large caravan and not struggling doing it.
then there's the fools that keep cutting ya off, thinking its ok cause your in big slow 4x4 lmao.
Near finished got a few things to do, should fire back to life after lunch today.
Then book in for injector pump upgrade & dyno tune.
Happy days.
Havn't read the entire thread but will have you done a brake up grade at all braided lines etcQuote:
Originally Posted by Robo
Its only a BSP thread isnt it ??????Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
even come in SS
[QUOTE=threedogs;641106]Havn't read the entire thread but will have you done a brake up grade at all braided lins etc[/QUOTE.
Thought ya couldn't fit braid to ABS equipped cars !.
Did fit braid to GQ it worked well
Well after a few minor delays stopping me from working on it, Pat's back on the Rd again and even better,
No hick-ups from the moment the key was turned.
New turbo feels much better, instance response, all over the old Ht18 hands down.
Boost gauge nearly moves like the tacho now.
cleaning/porting the exh maniflod has paid off I recon.
lightning the fly wheel has also made a real difference 1.5 kg removed.
NPC 6x6 clutch is very light and easy to use.
acceleration much better, ya can feel alot more torque at play.
very happy with how it's turned out so far.
Thankyou to the fellers who have helped with advice on the build.
3 cheers.
I thought about taking pics of rebuild, it's been covered by others before
didn't feel like getting crap all over the camera.
Be booking in for the injector pump up grade real soon.
Here's a pic of turbo fitted before vac lines plumbed up.Attachment 62516.
And that's not a torque wrench,
This is a torque wrench!Attachment 62517Attachment 62518.
This one 200--750 ftlb. thats around 1000 nm.
Made light work of the harmonic bal nut needing 239ftlb.