eaton lockers - wanted to know if anyone had issues with solenoids.

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Originally Posted by happygu

But Gary,

What about every other electrical wire under the vehicle for everything like fuel pumps and fuel gauges ... these are very important and you don't have too many problems with modern connectors .... they are very reliable considering what we do with our vehicles - river crossings, mud holes, rocky dusty tracks, etc, etc

I don't think there is that much to worry about, especially with a good join and good crimp to start with ( the only other thing I would like to see is a bit of solder on the join, which there wouldn't be )

Mic

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Is your fuel pump mounted on your diff?
Electrical faults can be a bugger to find air leaking is easier, and when your winching your lockers won't turn off as the voltage gets low. The car in the article was a 2007 model , my air lockers have been in longer than that.
It was a jeep though!!
Pull apart a connector that's been in mud and check how much crap gets in them and strip back the insulation on a wire that's been under a car and you will find the copper has gone black over time that will reduce the wires current carrying capacity, it's only a matter of time.

My 2cw aswell is what happens if the voltage reg dies in your alternator and you have to choose lights, locker or ignition ( more for petrol motors)?? What would you choose to use up the reserve capacity of your battery ???

Just on the lockers my other 4x4 has an ARB in the rear and a Pro-locker in the front.
Give me a Pro-locker any day. ARB played up all the time. No one knew why
Air line is easy to replace if broken on the track.

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

My 2cw aswell is what happens if the voltage reg dies in your alternator and you have to choose lights, locker or ignition ( more for petrol motors)?? What would you choose to use up the reserve capacity of your battery ???

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Unfortunately you need to run your compressor occasionally but not all the time, so you would still need to choose unless you have auto lockers, but that's a thread hijack!

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Originally Posted by liftlid

Unfortunately you need to run your compressor occasionally but not all the time, so you would still need to choose unless you have auto lockers, but that's a thread hijack!

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There's another thread about auto v air lockers but like you said thats a highjack lol.

I would've thought the compressor topping up the pressure in the line only running for 10 - 30 seconds would have less current draw than a solenoid constantly engaged ?? Not to mention as you did earlier wire deterioration from the oxygen in the copper oxidizing were you would need some sort of flux to clean it off so you can make a good contact point to engage the locker again if the wire broke unless you used oxygen free copper?? But that would be going off subject abit. Couldn't a broken live wire also earth out and make a spark and start a fire if its un noticed unlike if you ruptured an air line you'd hear the compressor buzzing away ??? Sorry i'm going off subject now....... Lol

@ Alitist007 a compressor may draw as much as 65ah

Thanks ppls I Also did some research , value your feedback very much
Eaton e locker it is.
Cheers fozzee63

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Originally Posted by liftlid

Is your fuel pump mounted on your diff?
1) Electrical faults can be a bugger to find air leaking is easier, 2) and when your winching your lockers won't turn off as the voltage gets low. The car in the article was a 2007 model , my air lockers have been in longer than that.
It was a jeep though!!
3) Pull apart a connector that's been in mud and check how much crap gets in them and strip back the insulation on a wire that's been under a car and you will find the copper has gone black over time that will reduce the wires current carrying capacity, it's only a matter of time.

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1) The e-locker's wiring is so simple, standard wiring to a relay and then one (twin sheathed) wire down to the locker. It's not exactly hard to diagnose if there is a issue with the lockers wiring.

2) My winch runs from my start/Main battery, as does most people, I run everything else I add through the aux battery including the locker. I don't see how the e-locker is going to disengage with the winch running. Surely a compressor drawing huge amps is going to have more issues with the winch running?

3) I definitely understand this point, I've seen plenty of wires as you've described, usually I find it when they are exposed to the heat (near exhaust) or poorly sealed terminals/connections. There are ways to better seal and ensure you increase the life of any wire or connection if you can be bothered.

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

My 2cw aswell is what happens if the voltage reg dies in your alternator and you have to choose lights, locker or ignition ( more for petrol motors)?? What would you choose to use up the reserve capacity of your battery ???

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Most people would likely have a dual batt setup, usually before getting lockers. My locker runs from my Aux batt and as the e-locker only draws around 5 amps (rated at 8 amps max) I'm pretty confident the locker would stay engaged long enough to get to where I need to, and still have lights running. Let alone the compressor is going to be more of a burden on a battery than the e-locker.

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Originally Posted by Alitis007

There's another thread about auto v air lockers but like you said thats a highjack lol.

I would've thought the compressor topping up the pressure in the line only running for 10 - 30 seconds would have less current draw than a solenoid constantly engaged ?? Not to mention as you did earlier wire deterioration from the oxygen in the copper oxidizing were you would need some sort of flux to clean it off so you can make a good contact point to engage the locker again if the wire broke unless you used oxygen free copper?? But that would be going off subject abit. Couldn't a broken live wire also earth out and make a spark and start a fire if its un noticed unlike if you ruptured an air line you'd hear the compressor buzzing away ??? Sorry i'm going off subject now....... Lol

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Also as with any electrical circuit it should be fused, which it does comes with, so any broken live wires are simply going to blow the fuse. ;)

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Originally Posted by liftlid

Is your fuel pump mounted on your diff?
Electrical faults can be a bugger to find air leaking is easier, and when your winching your lockers won't turn off as the voltage gets low. The car in the article was a 2007 model , my air lockers have been in longer than that.
It was a jeep though!!
Pull apart a connector that's been in mud and check how much crap gets in them and strip back the insulation on a wire that's been under a car and you will find the copper has gone black over time that will reduce the wires current carrying capacity, it's only a matter of time.

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I am an electrician too .... :tongue: , but I do think that copper oxidation, and poor connections wouldn't be a major concern for most people ...
I like the E-Locker, and am considering getting one for mine

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Originally Posted by sooty_10

1) The e-locker's wiring is so simple, standard wiring to a relay and then one (twin sheathed) wire down to the locker. It's not exactly hard to diagnose if there is a issue with the lockers wiring. 2) My winch runs from my start/Main battery, as does most people, I run everything else I add through the aux battery including the locker. I don't see how the e-locker is going to disengage with the winch running. Surely a compressor drawing huge amps is going to have more issues with the winch running? 3) I definitely understand this point, I've seen plenty of wires as you've described, usually I find it when they are exposed to the heat (near exhaust) or poorly sealed terminals/connections. There are ways to better seal and ensure you increase the life of any wire or connection if you can be bothered. Most people would likely have a dual batt setup, usually before getting lockers. My locker runs from my Aux batt and as the e-locker only draws around 5 amps (rated at 8 amps max) I'm pretty confident the locker would stay engaged long enough to get to where I need to, and still have lights running. Let alone the compressor is going to be more of a burden on a battery than the e-locker. Also as with any electrical circuit it should be fused, which it does comes with, so any broken live wires are simply going to blow the fuse. ;)

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As you said MOST people have duel batteries ( i don't ) but my trol has a factory vacuum locker so if a air line or electrical fault occurs i'm stuffed lol if i need a locker... Anyway everything i said was a hypothetical BUT i have seen more than once fuse holders melting and shorting internal which keep the wire live even without a fuse but thats another story. What i'm trying to say is anything is possible but when push comes to shove what do you choose electric, pneumatical or mechanical engagement!?