are you running the correct gearbox oil, it should be a friction modified oil (VMX 80)
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are you running the correct gearbox oil, it should be a friction modified oil (VMX 80)
This is the oil I'm using.
http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Gea.../#.T4JF1_Drq5I
G`day mate
check the hydraulics first. with the engine off bleed the booster by pumping the pedal a few times until the pedal is firm to push to the floor, if it has a small amount of free travel then is firm to push to the floor then the hydraulics are more than likely ok and your problem is the clutch it`s self.
If it`s the clutch it could be a number of things.
1 a cracked fork
2 a cracked diaphragm spring
3 a broken pressure plate hold back clip there are 3 or 4 of these can`t remember off hand
4 a broken fulcrum ring
all of these require box removal
hope this is of some help
if the clutch has a soft line, ie rubber hose , check to see that its not bulging under presure too...
should be using a gl-4 oil in a patrol gearbox. vmx-80 and vmx-m work well
Seems to be in the hydraulics from this test, pumped the cluch pedal for about 2-3 minutes with little to no change in firmness.Quote:
Originally Posted by pearcey
cheers, I'll change it again, do you use the 80 or the m is there much of a difference between them?Quote:
Originally Posted by billyj
If there is no fluid leak the mater can be bypassing internallyQuote:
Originally Posted by thebeatjackson
Start the engine hold the clutch down with the car in gear for a minute or so and if the car starts to slowly creep away then the master is bypassing
If it is the master fit a new one don't re kit the old one as the have a special coating on the bore and honing removes this and premature wear becomes a problem
I haven't tried this yet, but I do remember it doing something like this when sitting at traffic lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by pearcey
Any dout change the master not that expensive and cheaper than pulling the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by thebeatjackson