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Hopefully that's it now.
Installed the new sway bar links and gave the interior a good wipe down and vacuum.
Mechanic reopens tomorrow and will book it in for the 1st inspection, I'll done what I know needs to be done so we'll see how it goes..
https://youtube.com/shorts/7AR83GXWGs0?feature=sharehttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/01/32.jpg
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On the last trip I pierced a small hole in the metal a/c line. Tightening up the positive battery terminal I hit the line and pierced a little hole. Managed to stop lake with a cable tie to get home now want to do a permanent fix. I brought some of that steel stick, but the oil is squirting out it just won't hold to bond.
Any ideas @Winnie I believe you had the same issue once before..http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/04/67.jpg
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Jb weld is good stuff. And kneed it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
But best to get a replacement if you can.
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A bit of help please..
Is there a difference between the rd28 and tb45 on the air con line that runs along the guard..
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Nevermind, I've decided to take it out and get it welded at work, but as soon as I loosen the nut there's oil coming out. Is that normal and what happens when I've refitted the tube is it just a straight regas, what about the oil that's been lost..Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Sorry guys I've never done anything with air conditioning before
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The oil is there to lubricate the compressor. When getting a re gas they should re oil at the same time I assume.
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Another job that has been pushed back too many times is almost done. Need some washers and conduit to completely trick it off.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/05/42.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/05/43.jpg
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Those Rose joints on the links are shit. After barely anytime they will squeak and rattle, you grease them up, and after a few drives, they'll squeak and rattle. Patrol a Part have a fix for this but they are expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
What is it about it that's not good. I was thinking of changing the grease nipple. I only went for the extended because I was sick of changing broken sway bar links..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
You see my PM from the other day..
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The Rose joint ends. Are not designed for this type of work and wear out fast. The link part itself is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
No message from you mate...
Check now..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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https://patrolapart.com.au/product/h...-patrol-gu-y61
Is this what your talking about..
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Yep! They have seemed to have dropped the price since I last looked.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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My control box has been sitting on a couple of dodgy brackets and some cable ties for long enough. I would like to mount it behind the bar as there's heaps of room and it will be better protected, but for now this would do..http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/12/21.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2023/12/22.jpg
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Looks like you have plenty of room to hide it in the bar there mate.
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So I decided to bite a big bullet and get a pre trip inspection done. I knew that I was going to be up for a fair bit.
While it was there I got a full exhaust system fitted as the original was well due for a change.
I've ordered just about all the parts and reckon I can do everything at home with no more than $2500.00.
Some of the prices in the quote are over the top and some of the parts that I purchased were on sale at patrol a part.
Busy weekend with a good outlook.. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/60.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/61.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/62.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/63.jpg
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What’s it like with the new pipe?
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Sounds better and there's no more leaks. Haven't got it out for a decent run yet..Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Got a few hours in today.
Radius arm bushes were last changed in 2015
Sway bar, Panhard, radius arms and steering rod all out.
The metal bush from the radius arms fell out..
Just for you @mudski those links.. I did buy the ones from patrol a part and will be replacing them.
Had a look at the rear trailing arms and with the rock sliders in the way of the bolts. The sub tank needs to be removed to move the sliders out of the way. Don't know what I'll do about it..
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/67.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/68.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/69.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/70.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/71.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/72.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/73.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2024/02/74.jpg
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Ok, just about got everything done in the driveway at home.
The ac compressor has decided that it doesn't want to come out. Got the 2 bolts from underneath out and one next to the engine mount, there's one more somewhere between the tensioner and the compressor. I've taken out the only 2 that I can see and it still won't budge. It needs to pull away from the block but it won't..
That and the trailing arms, which are going to be fun to get out. Not looking forward to tomorrow.
A bit of battle scars.
Took off some skin when the end of the spanner which I was using as leverage slipped and caught my skin.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2024/03/1.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2024/03/2.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2024/03/3.jpg
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Oh I forgot.
The inspection guy didn't pick up on the steering damper being completely gone. I have ordered a new efs one..
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Well I'm done.
Trailing arms and a/c are getting done next week. I managed to do everything else.
Fired it up and once it got to temp I now have the low oil pressure light on, bring the revs up to about 1200 rpm and beyond and it goes out. I can hear tappet noise when the light is on.
I changed my oil with 20 50 and filter no difference. I've had the air intake off, changed the oil pressure switch and the rocket cover gasket over the last few days.
I've never had that light come on before.
Any ideas.
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Haha mine fell off during my recent trip up to SW QLD. I drove another 2000ks without it on. Couldn’t even tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Take the rocker cover off and start the engine up. If oil squirts everywhere you have a dodgy switch. Or put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in and go with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Now I'm pretty sure that this is wrong and now is the time to fix it.
I have a 10 blade fuse box and a 120amp breaker with 4 awg cable.
You can see that everything is pretty close.
At the most I'll be running 2 fridges, a freezer, the little 12v oven (while the car is driving)and then it's lights and charging points. If I was to assume 10 amp per slot = 100 amp breaker. I know that I'm not at 10 amp for every slot, so will a 70 amp breaker work and what size cable should I be using.https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...2024/03/54.jpg
While I'm on the topic, sort of..
Is this worth it. It pwm not mppt.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8634a7ce96.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e197152303.jpg
You need to make sure that a short circuit at the end of the run is sufficient to trip the breaker. With a 12V supply and a 70A breaker that means a total fault circuit resistance (battery + to battery -) is less than 0.17 ohms (Ohms law R = E/I). It is the resistance that drives what size cable you should use, but bigger is usually better where 12V is concerned. The low value fuses will protect individual circuits (assuming similar principles are applied) but that big breaker needs to protect the main power buss. And it should be as close as possible to the battery.
Cheers mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brissieboy
I do understand what you're saying to a certain extent. I know how it should all work, just don't understand the values. Your equation of Ohms law went flying over my head..
Thanks for your input..
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Okay brainiacs need some help here.
How can I mount the fridge securely. It's going to sit on the gray plate so even if it's securely mounted to that, it's only two bolts at the front to remove the whole thing.
The case only has the four eyelets on each corner and the handles are molded.https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/133.jpghttps://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/134.jpghttps://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/135.jpg
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If the fridge has handles, tie it down with them. You could connect the strap you use to connect to the 2 bolts at the front and someplace at the rear. If you just tie down the front you may find the fridge bounces up and down fron those 2 front bolts.
I wouldn't trust the tie downs on the bag, the bag will just rip I reckon.
I'm pretty sure in the past I used a similar setup protecting a similar load and my main cct breaker was only 60 amps.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
And as BrissieBoy said, keep all your fuses as close to the battery as possible.
A few of us, led by @MudRunnerTD, have utilised old rear seat frames that mount to the existing points in the car, then put the plate you show welded to the frame. This gives you an air gap under the fridge for further storage and opens up the range of mounting concepts. I would use a thimble with a threaded male extension - can get them at Bunnings for a couple of dollars each - I think the M8 units are rated at 230kg each point. Simply drill a hole in the sheet steel and bolt them in, nuts accessible as well, rather than on the floor and rubbing holes in the carpet. You should be able to buy an old crappy seat off gumtree and strip the base and back off it, @AB might be able to post up his solution, recently completed. I have platforms made for both sides of the GQ.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Here's the stand I use for my Engel. The stand connects to a mount in the floor underneath it and the shelf behind it.
I use straps through the handles which go around the frame of the strand.
Attachment 87915
Attachment 87916
The handles are moulded and pretty flat 1st pic.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
Thinking of something like 2nd pic screwed into the handle area and then 3rd pic into the plate.
https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/138.jpghttps://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/139.jpghttps://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/140.jpg
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I've changed the breaker to 60 amp and 5 amp fuses in the block (charging ports)except for the console fridge 10 amp and radio 10 amp as stated in the original car fuse.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
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Should I bring the fuses closer to the breaker, it's about 200mm at the moment.https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/141.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by 10G
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No. That is good solid cable and not exposed to potential damage so it is OK as is.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Good to hear that I got it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brissieboy
Thanks for the reply..
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Yep, the thing to look out for is whether the cable between the battery and the fuse is likely to interfere with anything else and cause a short. You could have the two seperated by a mile if you know that nothing is going to cause a short along that mile of cable, or in other words, between the battery and fuse.
You kinda get the idea. The hook in the 2nd pic is screwed in from the top because I wasn't sure how the self tapping screws would go. If I need to I can drill out the holes and nut and bolt it. It's pretty tight with the water tank, but it all fits.https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/146.jpghttps://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/147.jpghttps://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/148.jpghttps://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...024/04/149.jpg
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Cool tank, what brand is that & capacity?