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Well after retracting my steps. I found the issue. Broken earth wire on the engine loom under the intercooler. I must have knocked it at some stage during the injector or intercooler instal or removal.
Lucky I saw it, the broken wire had dropped down and was hiding under the manifold.
Now to remove the new fan assy for a replacement.
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Awesome news Mr Mark we’ve got to happy when we find an easy fix like that cheeky little wire [emoji106][emoji106]
I’ll be sure to try “retracting my steps” too, is that just like a Michael J Moonwalk backwards around the vehicle once or twice for good measure?
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Haha yeah. Stopping for a moment, listening to what Phil said I was like, there’s only one earth point under the dash, where could it be?Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
So I started doing the “moonwalk” and found it.
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Listening to Phil is enough to make anyone moonwalk around backwards 🤣
My GOD, some more words of wisdom from the Mountain Giant - how are you Sprocky-doodle!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprock
So I spent a good part of the day at Matfew’s place. He was kind enough to assist in the cable making of the winch. This guys needs a medal. Love his work.
Attachment 82713
Attachment 82714
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Just to show everyone the size difference in cabling, this next shot my finger is underneath the winch power cable from the TJM OX winch that was removed, which is now used as an auxiliary extension lead. You can see the size of the replacement cable attached to the +ive in the pic. Messive bro!
Attachment 82715
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Now I’m to doubt myself. I have pre wired the cable cab winch isolator and winch in/out switch. I have the in/out wires there the solenoid under the dash. Does this pic look right? Should the +ive batt wire I have in the pic be a constant power source or only when the ignition is turned on?
Attachment 82716
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Pretty sure I'm set up with ignition, if it's right or not I have to idea..
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Am I seeing right ? You're running your winch with that cable on a 70A breaker ?
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Nah you're not. The new winch cables are unprotected. It's the old cable going through the 70A breaker, the large cable would have been used to prevent voltage drop rather than carry a large load.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
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Nah mate. That’s the old winch cable going via the breaker for something else now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
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I've got mine constant battery which is handy I reckon but both will work. .
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Is it for the stripper lights?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Not really sure what your aiming at there bud with that. Lol. But no it runs over to the aux batt side as I found with the ARB twin compressor wired into the aux battery the compressor was running slower even with engine running, the voltage would drop when running. Wired to the cranker the compressor ran a little faster and the voltage wouldn’t drop as much. Thinking the Ctek dc-dc charger was favouring the aux battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
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Finally finished the high mount. With many thanks to all who helped. Wound the rope on today. Probably could have gone a longer rope though.
Attachment 82736
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Looks like you could've gone double, how much is on there.
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That's a good amount, I wouldn't go a lot more than that. When you are doing a perfect controlled straight pull maybe but when does that ever happen?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Always underspool the winch drum for off centre winching, the tree is never directly in front and your rope will bunch to one side.
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35m I got on there....Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Yeah good point. Didn’t think of that. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
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Look'n smicko Markie, 35m probably perfect [emoji106] . . Time to sink the bugga and give it a good test [emoji6] . . .
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Well the Patrol is finally out of hibernation in the garage, been there since around May I think. I did a few things in this time. It all started from one thing, a leaking front axle seal. Then it snowballed from there.
- Front axle seal repair
- rear brake pads
- The ARB bar was removed, cut and shut to suit the High Mount Winch EDIT : Then sandblasted and powdercoated
- The High mount winch was finally finished and mounts to the bar
- Rust repairs (attempted) on the radiator support panel
- Water rail leaks finally fixed after being back at the workshop who fitted it seven times... Gotta do something right, gotta do it your self!
- All guard flares removed and new rubbers installed
- Outer door trim bits removed, repainted and refitted.
- dump pipe removed, cleaned, repainted and new heat wrap applied.
- Some under dash wiring cleaned up.
- Repaired a broken ARB side awning.
- Repositioned the light bar and spotties switches to allow for the Winch controller and override switches to take their place.
- Roof rack removed, cleaned up and repainted
- Drilled and tapped the lower stat housing so the Redarc temp switch fitted properly without the use of an adaptor.
- Change out the thermostat from OEM to Tridon high flow to the Dayco DT79A stat and modded the bypass. Ended up going back to the Tridon, seem to get slightly more stable temps with that.
- Removed the JPC high Flow water pump and fitted a stockie. Couldn’t see any improvement but cannot be arsed putting the High flow back in.
- New Gates Fleetrunner extra heavy duty belts fitted.
- Fitted a Quikazz fan kit, failed hub changed out. Results are no better than the Infinity G35 and oiled up OEM hub. Bitta coin wasted on that but we wont tell the missus. Lol.
- The injectors were removed and reset to stock crack pressures. Then removed and reset again to what they are supposed to be from the pump builder to match the pump. Saw some improvement here.
I'm sure I did other things aswell. But for now its done.
Thanks to all who gave input and ideas. And who helped out with things that are beyond me.
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Is that all you did.... Ya bloody slacker.
Well done mate. I hope to see the beast soon.
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Thanks. Might even bring it out for a run to your place tomorrow arvo...Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty_nail
Nice work Mark.
Now get it out and enjoy the bloody thing.
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That's a good effort,Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Coolant temp reports.
Flat’ish Highway driving towing a Jayco off-road swan : Ambient temps circa 20c, coolant temps on the flat at 100kph, 85-90c. EGT’s 280c. Hit any type of incline, 95c in an instant. EGT’s circa 320c.
Hills with some incline to them, 4th gear holding 90kph would be 95c, EGT’s 330’ish, slightly steeper in third at around 60kph, I could hold it at 95c if I tried.
Today hitting some hills from Omeo to Bright, 7% incline, ambient temps at circa 35c, temps were 105c 2nd gear 40kph. EGT’s nudging 400c.
I have noticed EGT’s higher than what I would normally see by maybe 60c easily.
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Are you still running that garrett? A lot can be said for a decent turbo and fuel pump. I honestly don't believe yours are matched well to your requirements. Any ineffective timing from the system can throw heat load into your cooling system like no tomorrow. And the only way you see it is on the water temp gauge.
You can also try an aftermarket front bash plate/deflector to generate a better differential in the engine bay.
Do you know what timing spec the pump is set at?
Sounds alot like the troubles I was having with the other brand I had. Any time the engine was under load (inclines) the temp would go up. Even if it was raining while driving up the hills in the Otways in winter, yes I had to stop because I was overheating. I was told that I had leaking exhaust gases entering the cooling system. How or where I have no idea, became someone else's problem.
Don't know if that helps or if it opens up another can of worms..
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The hills mudksi is talking about though are crazy long and steep. Mine got to 110C on the same hill towing a 2T full size caravan.
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Never used to do this though mate. Somethings changed and I can’t put my finger on it. Not sure on the pump timing, I know it should be set at .90 though. I have the plastic deflector mounted which made zero difference, same as the Quikazz fan kit. I spoke with the pump builder and he recommends the turbo I have with his pump and injector build. So I dunno there.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Still goes good and pulls like a freight train. I’m going to take the pump out and have it looked over just for piece of mind. After that if there’s no change, I’ll just drive it.
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Yep. What myself and Winnie have experienced dragging our vans up will test any vehicle. All in all, I’m happy so far with what I have achieved, but I still do think there’s room for improvement. How much improvement is the question....Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
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Met up with Winnie an Co today, drove into on Bright for a few things. Noticed the oil light was on, dim but on. Check the oil, not even a lick on the dipstick. Even though the Redarc gauge says oil pressure all is good. Hmm. Put some oil in, took about a litre to get half up the stick. Oil light still on. I figure the sender unit for the factory oil light is having a hissy fit from the heat. It was 37c at 10am. Got to 40 today.
I figure I probably would use some oil dragging the Jayco over the VHC, seeing 105c water temps and constantly high revs in 2nd or 3rd just to keep a balance of momentum and coolant temps as low as possible is a hard strain and the oil will probably break down and burn. Dunno. Don’t give a rats right now. I’m on holidays.
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Unfortunately experienced very similar excessive highway oil usage on the old GQ TD42 hauling our 2.5T mobile work accommodation out through Bourke headwind regions early 2020 Mudski Mate.
Decided to drop the 4th gear already revs lower and cruised around 80-85kmph (2,200rpm-ish) IIRC and it’s second 1,000km stint oil fill used only about 250mm versus over 1.0L the previous 1,000km.
Must be a hotter oil thing I’m assuming too [emoji51]?
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I think I will send an oil sample off to be checked on next service. This will/ should tell me of a few things. We do this a lot for customers. I might as well do this for myself...
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So having a faulty oil switch creates other issues. My external fuel pump runs of this switch. Using the neg’ on the switch to activate the pump when there’s oil pressure . So since the switch is dead, the pump think the motor is not running. Plus stupid me runs a 70amp breaker for the ARB Twin compressor. Which needs 80amps. Duh! Blew the breaker and it wouldn’t reset. That will teach me for buying cheap Chinese shit. All I could get here in Bright was an 80amp breaker. But better than nothing.
New breaker and the pump still won’t run run. Hmm. I have a relay there where the earth on that is going via the oil switch. By pass the switch and still nothing. Then I find the inline fuse for the pump is cooked, tried to remove that and the hole thing Decintergrates. Nice! Bypass this and still nothing. Might just leave this until I get home.
Then this happens. Maybe on Blue Rag? Not sure.
Attachment 82803
A fecking rock embedded in the KM2!
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Bugger Mark Mate, you’re all back at camp safe & sound now hopefully?
How old are your KM2 rippers now?
About to pinch mine off the dormant shed queen GU for the GQ needs and yours look a bit worrying there. Appears to be a huge split (star picket shaped) on the next set of lugs above your unfortunate hitchhiker rock below too[emoji51]
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Yeah all’s good Mark mate. Went to a workshop in Mt.Beauty and borrowed their trolley jack and put the spare on just in case...Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Just gotta get a new oil pressure switch and I hope the external pump comes back to life.
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man you need a holiday .. without the truck ! mine is in lots of bits ! fuel pump getting rebuilt its getting a good going over head to be crack tested and new valve seats if it passes muster .
new radiator , water pump etc etc . its becoming the money pit ! oh and pull the tanks out maybe replace all the fuel lines with some stainless steel numbers .. yeswe have some rust looking from where … trashed the fuel pump . new housing etc etc
The plot thickens. So my external pump runs via a relay. The earth on the relay is connected to the factory oil pressure switch so the pump will only run where the oil pressure light goes off.
The power wire from the relay to the pump has an inline fuse. Yesterday I went to see if the fuse was ok and it wasn’t. Upon removing the fuse, blade type, the fuse broke off in the holder. No biggie there’s a shop down the road I’ll go get another.
I noticed whiling driving down to the shop the oil pressure light was off. Hmm.
I replace the fuse assembly, start the car and the light is back on, but only dim as it was first doing. Remove the fuse, it’s off. So I’m not even sure now the oil switch is the culprit. Bloody confusing.
CBF’ed anyway looking at it now, the Patrol still runs, I know I have oil pressure, and oil. I’ll worry about it when I get home.
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