Wow looks awesome mate[emoji106][emoji106]
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Wow looks awesome mate[emoji106][emoji106]
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Fark me! Mint!
Fark me alright.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Alternator has just about shit itself.
Driving home from soccer and lm at 13v
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Haha! there always something hey!
We're back in business babyhttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...2021/12/13.jpg
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where did you get the alternator from?
https://cometbattery.com.au/Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Brand new 110v $250 straight off the shelf.
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Need some advice.
I know that some of you have a fixed solar panel on your rack.
My question is what size panel should I be looking at. I run a console fridge which I turn off when I know that I'm not driving the car for a day or two. I have forgotten and have found the fridge off and the battery low. Is 100w too little and is 200 too big. I just want to keep the battery topped up
Cheers..
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Hey John mate. I personally think this depends on your charger type and/or your battery type .
Is the fridge fed off the main battery or aux?
I have a 110W panel on the roof. It charges a lithium battery which feeds my 47L fridge which is on 100% of the time all year round and unless I'm stationery camping the setup never falls below 90% battery charge all year round.
I use the Victron 12V gear.
Again like I said above. It depends on the rest of your setup. But for me the small-ish 110w works perfect. And if I need extra juice. The 120w solar blanket plugs straight in.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/173.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/174.jpg
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I run 2 x 200W panels on my rack. I went up from 2 x 60W shade tolerant canon panels that served me well, however I am a wasteful power pig when camping and want my food icy cold and drinks the same, plus run any amount of 12v gobbling appliances. Remember the power output is at 100% output and you are going to see maybe 60% at best of time, and its for a limited amount of time during the day, efficiency drops above 25degC ...blah blah. Anyway these keep my 400ah charged up nicely in 40degc and i am happy. .
I have a kings 120 watt solar panel on the roof running thru a MPPT kings controller. Supacentre is not bullshitting their specs like a lot of ebay sellers, it is 120 watts and it is MPPT and it is a fair price. Solar panels… 1 square metre of direct sun light = 1000 watts. At 18% efficiency a typical 1 x1 metre solar panel will max out at 180 watts. Remember this when you buy off ebay.
My kings setup runs my second shitty lead acid under bonnet battery with VSR which powers a crappy aldi 40 lt fridge all year round, with room to spare for the occasional travel buddy morning tea. Weekday driven about 50k to work and back😀
How do you validate these numbers? Solar density across Australia varies from 300 - 600w/m2 density from what I understand, and the 1000w/m2 is achieved in outer space and used as lab rating. For max efficiency I work on 600w/m2 and 16% efficiency, simply as a tolerance, as the latest NASA panels are pushing 22% but we are not able to access them, plus the panels are quickly de-rated at temps above 25 degC and the number of hours solar impact perpendicular to the panel. The MPPT controllers certainly assist with the optimisation, I just think the output is a lot less than perceived, hence why my panel area and watt output is high for the 6amp load- intermittent - from the 60L engel.
Happy to stand corrected, but from a marketing perspective, there isn't a marketing guy out there that will sell something based on real numbers, more on the maximum possible, even if its unachievable.
Cheers guys.
Sorry forgot to mention the battery. It's a 140ah AGM.
I'm looking at this.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...=en_AU&start=2
If needed for a longer stay I've got a 160 watt folding unit.
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@jay see Mate, worth checking out what @Cremulator Legend has done/did [emoji106][emoji106]
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Usage needs: You’re not currently touring John Mate, simply running a little fridge if read correctly? For this purpose I’m not a big fan of taking up full, half or even quarter open roof rack space as guaranteed Mrs See will book you in for a 2.4x1.2m Ikea pickup oneday soon…..all of us [emoji22]
Please do have a gander at @Cremulator ‘s great concept, personally ran 2 x 120W easily removable yet solid panels under my DX ute rack similar many years ago (nowhere near as refined) yet still used to make ice-cubes/blocks’ in an old Trailblazer 60L freezer for Margarita Murray River afternoons on 2 x 120ah wet batteries [emoji23][emoji123][emoji106][emoji106]
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I think @MB is referring to the table slide I made for my roof rack, but could certainly house a rigid solar panel.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...d.php?p=828198
[emoji106]
That's the very panel that I've got on my roof rack.Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
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Thanks guys.
Mb as good as the slide system is I don't think I'll go that way.
Another question.
I'm currently using a basic redarc sbi12 isolator, what's the go if I install the panel, will both be feeding the battery while driving?
Fridge is connected to aux battery.
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I have a slide out 100w panel under my roof rack because it’s only a 3/4 rack. The slide is simple square ally tube on each side running in ally angle slung underneath.
It has to be pulled out to be efficient. I’ve measured 5 amps on a good day with my clamp meter.
I don’t use a separate controller, I have the solar input on the DC/DC charger.
Attachment 84970
Attachment 84971
Attachment 84972
Attachment 84973
Attachment 84974
I like both these concepts, however will need to see what I can make work. The HH antenna on the rear might limit my rear options, and the rack support legs might be just that bit close for the side - thinking .......
Dont really go as far as you to validate the numbers, I just measure the panels area in square meters, multiply by 1000, then multiply by .18. So the 120 watt kings one works out to around 120 watts. Then I hook up an MPPT controller, with an cheap inline monitoring device either side. A expensive fluke dmm is placed inline, along with the fluke dc clamp. I connect it to a lithium battery that needs charging, not a near full one.In peak sunlight if the panel is not too hot I get enough amps to suggest the 120 watt claimed output is close.🤪🤪Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
That’s definitely the GO John @jay see & John @jff45 & Ash @Cremulator Legends [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by jff45
At least ya’ll can stress less with full open racks chucking long campfire logs/limbs brutally up top too with a single rope/ratchet strap enroute back to base camp for re-cutting down to pretty little sizes there that tend to end up rolling onto our bonnets every time if done prior [emoji22] [emoji23]
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I have a 120w panel on the top side of the roof rack. Its had everything stacked ontop of it, logs and all and still not broken. :animierte-smilies-tQuote:
Originally Posted by MB
Supercheap have 25% off Wednesday. I think I'll get it. I will have to check my isolator to see if it's compatible with solar.
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Bargain John Mate [emoji106][emoji106] Be sure to grab Mudski one too….he’s much rougher than yoo [emoji23]
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Thanks for the vote of confidence there old chap!Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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You’re Welcome Mr Mark Mate Legend [emoji23] [emoji106][emoji106]
There was a member here IIRC that ingeniously covered his daily rack top solar panel with an acrylic, maybe polycarbonate beautifully folded protective cover?
My apologies, you may be rough but us Hillbillies are Fair Dinkum Pyromaniacs [emoji3062][emoji23]
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Yes that was a very smart setup that one. Can't remember who though either unfortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
You'll love that Panel John mate. Love how the sides are powder-coated almost the colour of the roof rack so it doesn't stand out.
I've had mine for a while. I've throw everything at it, on top of it, from swags to chunks of timber. It's been hit with a strap buckle so many times but not a scratch on it.
But DO NOT try drilling into it like some goose I know...... See my post below. Tempered glass.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...l=1#post826245
Cheers Hodge, I've just picked it up and need to pick your brain a little.
Step 1 and 3 are straight forward, but what's step 2? The books shows it as load.
Also I've ordered another redarc isolator sbi12d, the current one hasn't got the duel sensing. That will be just a straight swap out yeah?http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/197.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/198.jpg
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Load looks to me like the wiring you run to power something when the solar panel is operating (as it seems to be out of the MPPT controller).
Hey John mate.
Step 2 looks like your Load connection.
Which I am only going to assume you will not use...
Those included charger / controllers , I've binned them both times I bought that panel.
As my panel is directly wired to my Victron MPPT.
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Cheers gents.
I started with mounting the panel and I need to drill some new holes so the lines up with my rack.
After flicking through the book, it's if you want to run a constant low power consuming electrical device which I'm not.
As for the regulator Hodge I will run with this one and see how it goes can always change if I need to.
Check you inbox too.
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The steps are just the connection order for correct and safe operation of the controller:
1. connect battery
2. connect load
3. connect panel
Reverse the order when disconnecting.
You can skip the load connection if you are just using it to charge the battery without.
Forgot to mention that this panel pools water on top when stationary due to the raised folded edges. You can see it on top of my panel here.
Which is why I attempted to drill the corners as drainage holes and in turn shattered the first panel I had.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/202.jpg
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Job done.
Run out of some tidy up bits , but there's a bit that that wanna clean up.
Only thing I'm not too happy is how the cable enters the door. Was thinking black electrical tape along that section (one of the things that I run out of).
Should get the new redarc isolator on Monday and that's a swap out.
Thanks for your input gents..http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/203.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/204.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/205.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/206.jpg
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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/207.jpg
@jaysee, I would route the cable into the roof gutter on the passenger side and sneak it across and to the rear of the snorkle, then down the back of the snorkle and into the gap between guard and pass door. then into engine bay or chassis rail or in thru the inside of the guard into pass footwell, assuming there is a similar route to the GQ. Cable remains very protected and you cab disguise the run in the gutter with corrugated sheath
John this is how my panel and light bar are routed.using 4mm twin core…
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/211.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...022/01/212.jpg
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I thought of that for about 1/2 second and that's too much work, well for me anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
This I considered, as I can run the cable behind one of the legs of the rack. Only thing is I didn't have enough cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Will probably tape/conduit it for now and look at it again after.
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I found this to be the neatest option to pass the cables while I have the 2nd battery in the right rear and the solar/DC to DC unit behind the 2nd row seats.
It is more work with 2 layers of panel to drill through but you access it just behind the rear seat belt cover.
Attachment 85018