I'm same school bloke. 240v sharpener just too damn difficult to use in the scrub. Match file to chain and away you go.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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I'm same school bloke. 240v sharpener just too damn difficult to use in the scrub. Match file to chain and away you go.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
The Stihl sharpener.
Sharpens the chain teeth and the gauges in one go.
All in perfect angle.
Best $40 spent. http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...020/10/143.jpg
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Does look useful. Will wander in to my local Stihl shop to peruse.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Yeah I bought one a couple of weeks ago after seeing it in this thread. I haven't used it yet but keen.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
I've had one for years and is what I always use, very handy for the average bloke like myself but I am positive that a trained professional like Rossco would get better results with a bare round file.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
It does me fine and I cut around 25 cubic metres each season.
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Yeah i am pretty good on a file. I had to learn how to sharpen a hand panel saw in trade school and understand how to set a saw blade by hand. But i thought what the hell, they are cheap and it might do it better. We will see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
Yes Rossco would be a Gun. Bet you would knock it out pretty well too mate.
yeah got one for my little 009, but use files for the 20incher.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Yeah pretty good those jiggers bought one for dad but got burnt in the fires damit. Just made up some ripping chain that is sqaure ground so need to chase up some square files. Was keen to have a crack anyway on normal chain, takes it to another level by the looks of it . .
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Keen to see your results with the square grind. Been tempted to give it a go but never bothered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
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What does square grinding do mate. Cut better, or lasts longer?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
It is for Ripping along thr grain rather than Cross CutQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Just wondering how long it would take to sharpen say a 72 link chain on an electric sharpener?
I have one but never used it as I heard they fuk the chains
I reckon I can do a chain in 15min including the rakers with a hand file give or take
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Nah mate it is a more aggressive cut. Definitely not for ripping.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
It's a cross cut grind and will be fast!! Very difficult to file though and will lose its edge quickly. Much more popular in forestry workers.
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I find it takes longer on the electric grinder than it does by hand, but I am still learning with the grinder. I only bought it to repair very damaged chains which would take hours with a file.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxhead
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Bit the bullet and bought this welder today. I am sure it will deliver all I want to use it for, and give me some flexibility with the TIG function.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CIGWELD-...72.m2749.l2649
Was trying to buy local however the local Total tools had sold out at this same price and the next ones in were with a price rise, so ordered the last 'cheapest' unit on ebay. Happy days, can now finish the chassis stiffeners to my satisfaction and also weld in the apring tower braces i have had for some time
I would say its quicker for me, and I have typically used the hand file with the precision slide set-up to get tooth length consistent, but admit I have not factored in the raker height adjustment - just straight out tooth grinding. I accumulate all my chains and do 10+ at a sitting. For me, after also checking the bar lands for same heights - Volorb? have a great hand tool to sort that out, I get a great straight cut and the chains last longer. I am still on the original grinding wheel as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
I’ve had one of these for at least 40 years, still going strong but doesn’t get much use now.
Attachment 82271
I reckon these are a great 'out the bush touch up device'. I have the same one but doesn't get much use now - I carry multiple chains now and simple use the grinder when I get home.Quote:
Originally Posted by jack
Have kept one of those rippers in my kit also for some 25+ years stihl going strong too Jack Mate!
Won’t disagree that hand filing/sharpening freehand is by far the best outcome and therapeutic found when time permits :-)
Our elecy spinners are fantastic though for a super quick licking when time poor but can overheat steel if too heavy handed.
Fastest way on our block resting saws I know of on my bullbar next to the battery buzzing out an accidental staple/wire spark encounter too :-)
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Interesting. On a saw blade a straight cut tooth (chisel tooth) is for ripping along the grain. The angle cut tooth is designed to slice the grain and cut. Effective cross cut. A straight chisel cut blade doesn't slice the grain in front of the cut.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
So the straight cut blade cuts faster on a chainsaw? What tooth design is used for slabbing?
Round tooth design mate but only on an 11° angleQuote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
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This is what is meant by square grind. Clearly cannot be achieved with a round file and takes far more skill, you take a triangle shaped file and go from outside the tooth in.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...020/10/146.jpg
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Thanks winnie, that is not what I pictured in my head at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
OK, new Cigweld 185 arrived this morning - Sunday delivery - Aust post must be really overloaded. Anyway, unpacked it, then down to Total tools for wire and gas, quick read of the manual and guide for parameters and what a difference to the little Rossi. This is just like it should be, really happy. the gas bootle cost was a bit of a slug though, but I now own the bottle (E size, $475 - ouch), but wire was on special.
Attachment 82319Attachment 82320Attachment 82321
The first pic of welds is with the new welder, the second is the best i could get out of the Rossi, both with gas.
First welding job should be a trolley seeing as how it looks like it could easily fall off that wheelie bin :)
I think I can save my time and effort by spending $90 on a 'bought one' I reckon. The welder is quite firmly mounted to the bin with 6 tek screws - learnt about their use from old @MudRunnerTD. Only hassle now is removing them weekly for garbage collection.
Just watch out for the main wiring loom in the bin, could cause a world of dramas. . .
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Dont talk about his GQ like that Rossco! PeeBee has done a lot of work to transform the Tardis into something to behold. Bhahahahaha!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Way back in 1997 we were camped at jacks waterhole in the Kimberley next to a guy from Sydney with a brand new landcruiser and a brand new jayco. He recounted the story about his fuse blowing hassles with the jayco from pick-up. Could not keep the main breaker from tripping on his way from Syd to Alice, so at some time along the road he pulled the breaker out and jammed a 1/4" bolt into the jaws, which fixed it for a while then something else 'big blew' and he lost all power. Getting to Alice he found a service agent and the van was booked in. They eventually found a large tek screw right thru the middle of a major cable. Lucky it didn't all go up in smoke, but he was 'oh so proud' of his electrical mastery - as I am at times!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
How much for a gas refill, @PeeBee?
$159 for this size bottle, but no on-going rental as i own the bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
Hahahaha. Legend. After i fitted the front mount cooler on the GUIV i had done a fair bit of work to the car at once. it started blowing the parker fuse. That is a MOFO of a circuit and is huge and all over the car. every light on every switch. Damn it. i pulled the centre of the dash out chasing that fault for hours and hours. It really dd my head in. what a nightmare......Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Several Hours later....... Dash all over the place...... Inspection mirror in my hand with a torch shining through looking into every nook and cranny looking for a short. Damn it to Hell. Ready to give in and take it to an Auto Elec knowing he was going to redo everything i had spent the day doing was really pissing me off. Of all the circuits! this was the Beast.
Faarrrkkking Thing!!! I mounted the Winch solenoid to the front of the radiator support panel.... With a couple of Tek Screws... Shut Up. I Know. anyway. Bugger me. running along the underside of the top radiator support panel is a bloody Loom and one of those tek screws disappeared into it, i just caught a flash of it in the mirror by chance. I removed the tek screw (3 seconds) and the short was gone... I didnt even bother pulling the Loom out, I got a lucky break.
Tek screws Rock. Just know what is behind the panel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudnut
I rented an E bottle for a couple of years thinking it was the way to go. $20 a month it added up quickly when i was months between uses. I ditched it a few months ago when i went ot use it for the first time in 6 months (6x$20 is $120 for it to sit there) and got 10 minutes into the project and ran out of Gas!!!Damn! i paid rental on an empty bottle. I went and bought a "D" size for $300 and it is $100 to refill when i need it. wont take long to be in front, should have done that from the start.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Thats a good refill price - assuming the D is the next smaller size down or is it bigger than the E?
Nah its smaller.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
The stupid thing about the rental is the refill is cheaper. $75 or so for a refill. No charge to put back. I could have just returned it for 6 months at no charge and grabbed another for $75. Would work out cheaper to give back a half full bottle for 6 months at a loss and grab a new fill when needed but who is that organised. Not me.
Wholeheartedly agree on the gas bottle purchase system. The rental on my E size bottle had reached $210/year and I didn't use a bottle in a year doing only hobby stuff. When I bought my first AC/DC TIG 4 years ago, I bought the argon E size bottle outright then thought, bugger it, might as well get the MIG bottle too. Yes, it hurts the pocket but it works out better over time.
Since owning the TIG I've done a lot less MIG so I've only swapped the MIG bottle once in 4 years.
I bought a semi-automatic welding machine
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2020/11/5.jpg
There is no carbon dioxide cylinder, so I connected a fire extinguisher with carbon dioxide
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum.../2020/11/6.jpg
Thats novel! What pressure do you get from the fire extinguisher? Is the gas supplied for the fire extinguisher suitable/produce a good weld?Quote:
Originally Posted by Seluntiy
The gas pressure in the fire extinguisher is the same as in a normal cylinder. Carbon dioxide is no different. I put the pressure at the outlet about 0.2. I'm still just learning, but I like the seam.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Just turn the fire extinguisher upside down
I was more interested in the quality of the CO2 and any impurities that might be introduced. i would think there is not as close attention to the quality of the CO2 as opposed to that supplied as an inert environment for welding, but if it works and welds look good and strong, must be ok, I will certainly keep this in the back of my mind for future use though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Seluntiy