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People are putting pajero viscous fan hubs on TDs now with a pajero fan, apparently it is way better than any Nissan setup. People are saying that it helps massively with keeping temps under control but I haven't actually seen one yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Mark, I am guessing you have checked the thermostat? - or changed it? I guess its the standard question, if it hasn't been like this - 'Whats changed?' More weight - new rear bar?
Yeah I've seen a few of them around. Some use the Colorado fan setups too with good results. Mine was good, then all of a sudden it wasn't so good. So I want to find out why. Hopefully what I have done over the last week has worked.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
This musical fan saga seems to be going around. When I got my new motor fitted it was running a TD42 fan, then it exploded ina river crossing, so was changed for a toyota 3E fan, supposedly stronger plus higher airflow and sat back further away from the radiator core. Now, when I swap over the front components from V belt drive to serpentine, the fan supplied is a modified unit off a duramax.Quote:
Originally Posted by Winnie
FWIW had a few stock TD42T’s and 95C up a Warrandyte hill known is very usual, even in winter. They’ll always come back down to 85C on the Yarra downside pedal off. Personally never have stressed too hard on these kettles until 105C and climbing further, uncontrollably.
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I have been told on many occasions Mark that its still well within its limits. But when its run a certain way for so long, then all of a sudden its different, even still within spec, its get me thinking why. Last January's trip back from Merimbula the kettle was seeing 115c without much effort when climbing some hills.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
However regarding the 3071 Garret. Its had me thinking since the tune. I notice more that in 4th gear at 6k's the motor's rpm is too low for the motor to produce enough boost to get going. Its ok when your coating along a flat road. Hit a hit or slight incline and you fell the need to down shift. Different turbo, or at the least a set of 4.3's would correct this. But 4.3's is what I had, and 1st gear was almost non existant. Hence me going to 4.11's. So a differnet turbo is the fix. But I wont be doing that so the 3071 stays.
Let’s honestly swap for a day drive around up here together old mate. My honest (mechanical nuffy) belief is that many blokes drive them (build seek) too cold?
I agree that cooling systems should have the least amount of fluctuation but 75C -95C in hilly country is all I’ve ever known of these 42 great donks!
EDIT: Can click over the magic 100C and up to 105C when heavy hauling or high country 40ambient slow stuff too but no stress still mate!
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Interesting, before i did all teh mods to my GU it rear HOT A Lot. EGTs could be above 500 towing all day and be bouncing off 550 most of the day. 12 hours at 550 cant be good.!!!!
When i did the turbo i replaced the Radiator with an ADRAD Copper as per factory spec. Did the Thermostat to the 77 Trident one,Fitted teh JPC HiFlow Water pump, repacked the factory viscous hub, replaced teh fan with the G35 fan and it has never got hot again.
So to the haters.. Stick it. The Water Pump is a Winner. 40d day towing a camper at 115 and over taking to 130 and teh EGTs are nothing over 400 and the water temp gauge doesn’t move. Love it. I had a Kettle. Now I Don’t.
Yeah but I’m $10k richer and still chugging!
(Bullshit & Beer that is :-) )
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What sort of max water temps have you scored on the beast Daz mate?
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Just the Factory guage but can honestly say i have only seen it move once in 2 years and that was from normal running at 1/3 to about 1/2.... soooo Bloody good mate. I really was concerned.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Roger that mate, tis a beautiful truck though yours, I wish, oneday leather seats too ya funky trucker, tops !!
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Mine generally behaves itself perfectly don't have an aftermarket gauge just the trusty old GQ one. Did get warm on some of the big east gippsland hills heading up in on weekend to Coota, only had a 6x4 trailer but was over 30 degrees and holding it on 100kph, got to around 2/3 on the guage which is fine but is always nice to see it under half lol. They are some pretty big hills those one which go far a fair way tho. EGTs are always low can get it too 500 but that's pushing the buggery out of it it ap a mega hill in 5th or 4th. Getting the ufi pump fitted now hopefully my issues are sorted and everything else is as good as it was if not better. .
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I'm actually worried mine runs to cool. Prior to the tune it just shaded 80 on the gauge with EGT's at 500 on a couple of long 4th gear pulls. This with the backpack camper, 190lts water and full fuel 145lts.
Now I can't get the thing past 75 no matter the load and EGT's max out at 450. My concern is it's not getting up to full operating temp and so not getting max efficient fuel burn.
Tea kettle?? Pah! Lucky to get a tepid shower out of it!!
Interested with new tune: higher boost? higher AFR?Quote:
Originally Posted by Touses
did not mean to report your post - sorry (digit slip)
Nah! Got about 2000k on it before tune. Went in with 146 hp came out with 166 so mechanic did a fair job on a "by ear" tune to start with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bidja
The tune got the Ebc up n running cos was a mob of nuffies , me top of list, when it came to that thing. No idea about AFR, all 'ol mate said was he leaned out the bottom end a bit.
All Greek to me anyhow. As far as mechanical shite goes I know enough to turn the ignition key.
OK, to "lean out" the AFR (Air fuel Ratio) has been increased. With bottom end he means at the lower down rev range, has reduced amount of fuel in the air fuel mix.
Should mention, turbo is Garret 2863 gated at 14 psi. The guys at Gympie diesel and dyno still managed to tweak 16 out of it so EBC overboost shutdown is set there.
Have tried searching before for the official TD42T optimal water running temperature Touses mate to no avail. I would assume it’s somewhere between 80-90C like most others. I know my utes 6.5NA is military listed at 88C and ran a whole lot more stable once I exchanged the Aussie 76C TS’s for correct Yanky 88C TS’s for its spec.Quote:
Originally Posted by Touses
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Was beginning to think along those lines, hotter thermostat. 82-85 if I can source one.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Found a good read on another site mate.
https://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/engi...#/topics/62472
Varying 82-85-89C tests with blocking bypass once opening that may assist @mudski too.
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That’s weird, correct linky didn’t work and can’t edit my post :-)
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http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/11/157.jpg
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Ta for that link mate, worked ok for me. Will trundle down to local auto parts store n have him check for 85 deg ts. Looked at patrol a part, only listing the 76.5.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Thinking we might start off giving an 82C one a go this summer in the Mrs GU TD42T after reading that blokes trials, worth a cheap crack at them all really.
Just taking her wagon for a run now across town to properly compare the stock temp gauge versus Redarc aftermarket one.
50C it starts to move off stock guage ‘C’
60C it hits 1/3
70C it hits about 1mm under half
Wasn’t able to hit any steep long hills the way I’ve come but do know the stock guage won’t budge beyond 1/2 until some 95C+.
That’s over a 25C variance that Nissan has kindly built in for customer satisfaction:-)
Really keen to oneday find out exactly what their official operating water temp is if anyone can kindly help out there?
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Hey mark, not surprised as factory gauges are typically 'lagged' so the punter does not get alarmed at the rate of rise or even the temp it is sitting at. My daily drive does not even have a temp gauge as the powers to be believe that , I quote 'the driver of such a vehicle should not be bothered with the temperature of the engine as it is a distraction to the driving experience' - like right, this is Australia - 3 yrs ago it was so hot up in the Canberra area that my bonnet emblem popped off the bonnet sometime after I parked it, somewhere around the 43degc day, after a 7 hour drive, so no idea how hot that poor bonnet got! I am a big believer in 'more information is gooder'.
Spot on PeeBee.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeBee
Which is exactly why I opted to fit a secondary standalone gauge , after so many people told me not to worry about it , just "Trust" the factory needle. If it nears the red , then begin to worry about it.
I like direct feedback, as you can monitor how different driving behaviour influences the temps, and the adjust to suit.
You can also tell more precisely how different mods influence the temps ... Like different fans, spotties in front , new radiator etc ...
Something your lazy Nissan needle will not tell you .
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This is a great bit of info. I read the first page - does it actually go for 76 pages or am I misreading it? If it does, surely the problem is fixed by now?????Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
Agreed mate, a super decent effort he put in to help others from his experience found. Only read the first few pages too but this thread here is also at 548 top posts of really decent stuff, especially the early relevant topic ones, my bad of late :-)
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Alright, I'm gonna re-route this thread back to the original roots for a moment...
Since Darren began this journey and we have the identical models, I've always had it on the cards to do the same.
Time to get the ball rolling !!
I don't overheat and my EGT's I'm yet to push past 400-420. But am yet to be in a demanding scenario though. The HT18 right now is on its upper reaches of efficiency after last tune. It has no more to give.
I'm not chasing more ponies as such. Just a bit of torque. And I'd like the car to run "optimum". I know and can feel it has MORE to give.
As well as watching Matty guide and recommend things, I've also spoken to the tuner at JPC and last week had a good chat with Andy at diesel tec. After telling them my scenario and wants and needs.
All is pretty much unanimous. A better suited turbo and give the car more air to breathe will make this vehicle much more fluent.
I'd like to retain my factory pump. 11mm from what I believe. Will also give the car 4" of air to the snail...
I'd like mine pretty much to be a carbon copy of Darrens with the turbo.
Time & mechanical skill will be my biggest enemy here, as I doubt I'll be able to hit the job my self and have the car off the road for a days while I work on it.
My goal is to gather as much of parts and pieces as possible and hit the job sometime late Jan, start of Feb. And at this stage, my plan is to give the car to DieselTec with all parts, and call me when it's done.
I guess largest hurdle will be how to liaise everything to get the dump pipe fabricated. :confused:
1/ Darren installed an inline pump. Is this really needed since I'll be retaining my injector pump?
2/ Is it viable to fit a 4" intake to HT18, at least temporarily? I understand there will be a reduction between the airbox and the turbo.
This way at least I can break the job into portions and can have this part done prior to turbo and I'm confident I can do this part my self at least. I just don't know what intake size HT18 is? And how one would adapt 4" airbox into it.
@MudRunnerTD PM sent mate.
Below posts are Andy's list of parts and guides on what to and how to ! Which will be the core of my part gathering.
Thanks to @AB part list and guide !!!
Andy's post #29
Andy's post #151
Fit your airbox and snork to suit 4" and run your 4" plumbing all the way to the turbo and then a reducer onto the turbo. You might need to swap rhe reducer for the new turbo if at all, the rest will be perfect.
Staying with the CC top mount mate? You have spent the money so cant imagine you swapping it out.
The lift pump really is a bonus as the fuel pump relies on vacuum a lift pump feeds the pump. Such a small inbestment it was a no brainer mate.
If your taking everything to Andy to fit just get him to take it to lilydale mufflers & towbars. Only a minute away and are really good, will be able to do a dump pipe no probs. If you need anything stainless between airbox & turbo can do that 2. .
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Hey Hodge, what airbox you running currently and are you changing / upgrading? I wouldn't bother running 4" to HT18 I would just do it all together when the turbo goes in, likely it won't line up from old to new and will be a waste of time/ money to do twice, that's what happened with mine from Safari to Borg Warner. Also Andy usually takes off most of Jan but probably good to get in once he's nice and refreshed hopefully [emoji6]
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I'll definitely be keeping the big cooler. Bit of coin involved in that, so it's staying, and it definitely does the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
I guess I'll look at the inline pump too. That's one of the things that can be added any time so, not a priority.
Ok cheers. I'll ring him up and ask if he'd be happy to arrange something like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Taking it there is just something I'm toying with now. When he returns I guess, he may or may not be booked out well into Feb or beyond. BUT, I am in no great rush.
Currently just a factory box with a Safari snorkel.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
As Darren mentioned above reason I'd like to do this prior is to break the job into portions... I'm not fussed if I have to replace a hose or a reducer when the new snail goes on.
I'll catch up with Darren soon and I'll have a look and a chat about his one up close and personal.
A little part of me wants to attack this my self. I know a lot of it is just nuts and bolts.
My main concern or those water and oil hoses. If I could get my head around them. Can't see much of it being rocket science.
But I'll see !!
Yeah have a go for sure Hodgey sure you'll be right, will definitely be a SUBSTANTIAL saving doing stuff yourself. Once you have the turbo you'll be able to workl out fittings plus look @ Dazs or another TD and work it where stuff needs to go then do a Pirtek visit. .
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Yeah I am definitely keen on attacking this . As i am in no rush, I'll have ample time to do research, gather bits etc... and grow larger knackers to do the job lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Been reading a lot this morning about this turbo. Old mav on the other forum has some pretty decent tech info on this too.
Also found nissannewbys thread too from last year. Lot of good info and photos giving a clear idea on whats going on.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...Warner-EFR6758
Dumb question ...
Is it possible , that a fitting kit, mainly oil and water ins and out hoses , from another turbo would suit the Borg Warner. Or are the threads & sizes of fittings unique to BW , hence why a a custom assembly of parts has to be bought and made ?
I notice the Mamba and Kinugawa turbos have pre built kits for a TD42 everywhere.
Example :
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F172736554894
Also this is the best price . I've found this far for the turbo.
https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/bo...wg-efr179388sp
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@AB was my guide for fittings and hoses mate. His head was all over it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodge
Can you park your car up in the shed for a couple of days Hodgey?
If so then the best way to do it is to mount your turbo and create your own lines using wire like a coat hanger with the best path to each feed/drain.
Then with your old turbo lines, new wire paths and the New turbo take all that into Pirtek and get them to create it all for you.
You should be able to utilise some of your old lines to save $ but just see what they say mate.
They'll match threads etc and work their wizardry!
My pic below pretty much shows all of the lines.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...018/11/175.jpg
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Thanks Andy!Quote:
Originally Posted by AB
With any luck I'll be able to slot it into our diesel mechanics workshop for a few days as Pirtek is literally 7 doors down in Tullamarine.
It's a lot for me to swallow as ive never had a go at something like this.
So the most detrimental part is that oil drain right ? Has to be easy flowing with minimal bends or kinks to dispose of oil.
This was your initial down fall???
I have been reading the huge EFR6758 thread on the other forum and fark me dead, my head hurts.
Maybe I'm looking into it way too deeply lol.