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I've had it blocked for over a year now and unfortunately nothing I've tried has helped, it will come up regularly. I've noticed it pops up mostly when I put it under load, but I have a bluetooth OBDII, so it's a matter of pressing a few buttons on my deck to clear the codes. It's a bit annoying at times but you get used to it :) I might get fed up one day and put a hole in it, but for now deep breaths :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Orsm6
HAHA thanks foggs. I was told i could chuck a hole in mine and that "may" help. I've seen a broken wire can also be an issue, but i am uncertain if the guy had a year the same as mine. Just one of a few things i'll check out.
I might be blocking mine this weekend. No one knows how often the warning light comes on as it seems to be different for each vehicle. I plan on seeing how often the light comes on. If it's frequently I'll just leave the light on and clear it on weekends or whenever I can be bothered.
Does anyone know if you can use the Torque app to clear the code??? I have that app on my phone, it's a bit cheaper than a Scanguage ;-)
Has not bee a problem helping mate..Quote:
Originally Posted by Orsm6
Pretty sure yours is a Di so is a little different to my crd.
The hole in the egr plate does stop the egr code. @TPC had a hole in his. Pretty sure it's about 8mm.
If its a direct injection motor. Never.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
If its a Common rail. How long is a piece of string? Each motor is different in the CRD's in reacting with a full plate. Best thing to do is just put in a full plate, if you get the CEL come up, drill a 8mm hole in the centre of the plate. But then your egr is not fully blocked, but its better than nothing. What the egr does to the intake system and motor, I personally would put up with the CEL coming up.
Oh not doubting you at all champ. I'm just the sort of person to try and get all the info i can on thisngs and go from there. Drilling a hole is still definitiely an option :)Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
Glad we got the boost limp issue sorted.. Atleast the car is drivable nowQuote:
Originally Posted by Orsm6
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguwesty
yeah definitely agree with that. i'll report back on the EGR.
Yes you can use Torque or DashCommander to read and clear the codes. They also give you a description of the code, so you don't have to guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
I use one of these with Torque, found on ebay..
Attachment 68307
I have my egr blocked on my 3ltr Di with no problems whats so ever, [no hole]
So I have a late 2013 GU CRDI from new that is still under warranty (i got 5 years 140K). Would blanking off the EGR void my warranty?
Yes. Just remove it when ever you take it to Nissan. Plus its *cough* illegal *cough*.Quote:
Originally Posted by UminaTroll
It depends on your dealer maybe???? On my Navara, the Head Service Guy at my local Nissan joint actually offered me a blanking plate for the EGR one time, I already had one fitted, I stopped short of telling him just in case, but the Nav was under warranty still at the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by UminaTroll
They actually replaced the timing chain on the Navara and had the vehicle for about a week, it had the blanking plate in then and no one noticed.
It may come down to the relationship you have with the people there, if you get on well, you may be OK. ????????????
Probably best to leave it as is until the warranty expires... I just wonder how much crap will go through the engine in the meantime. What about something like a catch can... would that cause issues?
I'm no expert but they could pull you up for having different size tyres if they wanted to I guess. It comes down to the dealer you go to and you can go to any of them for warranty work. You'll find some won't be bothered and others could be complete ba$$tds.Quote:
Originally Posted by UminaTroll
So maybe it comes down to you and how you feel about the possible risk involved.
How well do you know the dealer you're going to go to? Do they seem reasonable? Do they stay around and chat with you and answer questions or do they just want you out of the way as you're not there to buy anything?
If they hang around and chat, take you out the back to look at stuff and are happy to answer questions, then I'd say they may be lenient and understanding with things like catch cans and EGR blocks. But then again .......
One thing to keep in mind about Factory Warranty (I stress Factory Warranty) is the Dealer does Warranty work on a parts and labour cash recovery deal from Nissan.
I.E. what is and isn't covered/voided/constitutes a warrantable fault etc isn't the Dealers call, it is Mr Nissan.
When a potential warrantable problem is noted the Dealer/Workshop/Mechanic has to approach Nissan Aust.
If Nissan deny the warranty claim or want more info then the Dealer has to provide it to Nissan or try and fight the good fight on your behalf.
A good Service Dept. will go the extra yards in the fight, a bad one will just say Nissan said "Sux to be you" and if you don't agree you go duke it out with them.
Bottom line of that is the Warranty support and costs are not "on the Dealer" but are the responsibility of Nissan and the Workshop won't proceed on any work unless either Nissan or the Customer agree to reimburse him.
... for the record I had an EGR block, DP chip, 4Terrain Clutch and exhaust mods on my truck during the warranty period.
Of about a dozen faults I only had two issues rejected, a dump pipe stud issue due to the "aftermarket exhaust" and a Dual Mass Flywheel fault due to the "Aftermarket Clutch"
Hey guys, turns out there was a broken wire to the egr valve that had been soldered before. Problem gone. I now don't have CEL coming up all the time. Cheets
Great outcomeQuote:
Originally Posted by Orsm6
If your local Nissanship says its OK to run a catch can, then get it in writing.Quote:
Originally Posted by UminaTroll
cause if it goes to pooh they may deny saying it at all
good result finding that broken wire
I've got a non intercooled TD42T(Y60 Safari) and couldn't really see any pipings going from the exhaust back to intake pipe, does that mean I have no EGR valve?
Cheers
Young
Ordered a 3" S/S zorst for my DX, Ive got the EGR blanking plate in already. Im sure i read somewhere that i may now over boost even with the CRD. Is that right. Stooooopid search function is doing my head in! Do i need to fit a dawes valve? Am i gunna get error codes now? I got a scan gauge 2 so can clear if they come up. Should i be fitting pyro and boost gauges now, baring in mine the scan gauge shows boost
Yep I had issues on the highway with over boost when coasting..
Around town want an issue.
Just coasting was seeing up to 30 psi
Bummer
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Did you not see this then boyo?Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=38321
I fitted a blanking plate a week ago. No codes.
What boost are you gettingQuote:
Originally Posted by 10G
I thought a 10mm hole in the EGR plate stopped any issues
Not all CRD's get the limp mode or CEL issues for some reason. Much like the Tritons, its anyones guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Instead of buying a boost gauge cant youQuote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
hook up a temp gauge just to see what yo're getting
Yeah i will definitely get temp gaugeQuote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
How can I tell what boost I'm getting? I have no additional guages.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
I thought fitting a blanking plate didn't cause any issues except getting error codes on the dash occassionally.
I read somewhere only with the addition of a larger exhaust and the blanking plate that the boost can spike to and unacceptable level
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Do you have an ecu reader. Ie scangauge or similarQuote:
Originally Posted by 10G
Egr block with stock exhaust is no issue..Quote:
Originally Posted by growler2058
It has enough back pressure.
But may get the code.
And it seems it's very exhaust system reliant too.. @TPC doesn't have any boost issues with his holed block plate and 3" yet I did with my full blank and 3" exhaust.
Boost control has sorted my issues..
I just ordered a poor mans scanguage, so I'll have a look at that, thanks Kallen.
Hi guys, great thread. I starting researching how to get more towing ability out of my wagon. Read through this and decided I'll blank my egr to start with and see what that does. From what I read I just need the blank plate and something like a scan gauge to clear any errors and compare a few before and after readings. I have a 2012 GU CRD - sounds like it's straightforward. Have no other engine mods... Will see how it goes from this and look at chip and exhaust next.
Anyone have any towing upgrade suggestions they've used for similar model CRDs? I'm towing a 1.6T camper and it struggles...
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Hi Guys, great thread. Getting my NADS stuff ready to fit. Has anyone cleaned their intake manifold as part of this ? To me it seems like a good idea to get rid of the accumulated gunk before fitting NADS as otherwise you still have the restricted intake even though it won't get worse.
Set aside a day or two when doing the intake manifold removal and cleaning. While its a good idea, its a big job aswell. A lot needs to come off when doing this job.Quote:
Originally Posted by GU09
I started getting the dash warning light after I blocked my EGR and like others I've noticed that is sometimes goes away on it's own. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to when it comes on.
If you get the app Torque and an OBD bluetooth connector, you can clear the codes that way. I've now got a Kings Scanguagey thing and use that to clear the codes/dash light.
So if I go with a 3" exhaust and with my EGR blocked how do I make sure my boost doesn't over boost? Do I require yet more stuff to keep that under control? I might just remove all the mufflers etc and stick with the stock size pipe???? What do others think??
It tends to happen on colder mornings or when air is more dense..Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
Yes torque will clear it but why not keep the EDS powered full time as a gauge for multiple things?
It may over boost it may not..
Mine did, so fitted tillix and needle valve, so boost is now mechanical..
Do you get enough benefit from fitting a 3" exhaust to warrant the extra work??? Valves, needles, extra gauges & finding somewhere to put them.
Is it worth the extra work & expense? I only ask because I don't know, if everyone says it makes a huge difference then great, but if everyone says "oh yeah it makes some difference" then .....
Ok so after reading all 48 pages I thought I'd better register. Details of my ride(s) in intro thread but thought I'd provide some info. Had a RedBack 3" exhaust put on the 2011 CRD just after Xmas. Wife and were very pleased with result, general power better across the rev range and turbo seems to spool up a bit quicker. Intend to do the EGR block when I can get access to the vehicle, read intro for more info on that. Just ordered UltraGuage to check boost etc and need to disconnect battery to reset ECU I suspect as wife think fuel usage has possibly gone up a bit since exhaust was fitted...want to do CREB and Telegraph tracks before she comes home in July...So any CRD owner wanting a bit more grunt I do recommend the 3" exhaust it was a very noticeable improvement.
Graeme