Ooh pretty blue!
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Printable View
Ooh pretty blue!
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So I started stuffing around with adding an external switch. Piss farting around trying to find a good discreet spot for the switch. Rummaging through my box of lecky bits and I found this.
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Kinda forgot all about it.
So I ditched the switch idea and turned my thoughts to this.
It’s made for VRS winches, having all the correct plugs to fit. Got the side cutters out and lopped them off and grafted it in to the Patrol.
All works as it should.
But now I’ve decided to remake an entire new engine bay loom from the relay box.
As I had modded the OEM relay box to house all the extra relays I was running.
This pic is what it was like. Tons of spare spaces.
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Fast foward to the final mod.
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But, this mod was done what I had projected HID light with LED angel eyes and blue Devils eyes. These are now gone so I still have the relays connected. So I will remove the relay box and rewire it again so I can use these relays for something else.
A big can of worms I think I have opened up. Rewiring this relay box was a BIG job...
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Have heard decent reviews on VRS products Mr Mark Mate!
I please do need to echoe again my thoughts on wireless winch controllers though sorry mate :-(
We nearly took a blokes leg off with a Supercentre controller on our little logging trailer as it kept running on out of control.
Upgraded to a Warn remote / 5 wire adaptation to a 3 and response time became somewhat instant.
Hopefully the VRS can do the same safety for you too brother, as close as a momentary bullbar button taught once of @Winnie needed!
FWIW: The cheapo controller we started off with ran through a shipload of batteries hourly working too :-(
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I hear ya mate. Once I find a good spot I will add the switch in. The solenoid is easily accessible.
Legend Mate, please do let me know the final best bullbar location too :-)
I’m too lazy these years gone by and prefer letting @matfew run some ADHD out of his system uphill usually :-)
https://youtu.be/TKNqMLD5qOM
Pimped up High Mounts used are Awesome Brother, you’ll love IT [emoji106][emoji106]
https://youtu.be/AfAEzIx_0f0
FWIW: Ensure your Airlocker solenoids have clean unfrozen moisture seperated to them or you too are a 2WD :-)
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Very neat mark, puts me to shame!!!
I mirror what MB says about the wireless remote. I prefer a fixed cable. We had an instance on site where two wireless remotes arrived on site from different contractors with the same frequency! It was caught during the safety and pre-start so nothing happened, but could have been a disaster - it was on vehicle mounted lifting jibs.
Oh dear...
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Next up is to fix the busted rear flare.
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Then to think about these ARB deluxe steps. I want to make them into a slider of some sort.
These steps are pretty tuff out of the box. Pretty heavy duty shizz.
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Rear flares are off. Geez a lotta crap gets stuck behind these.
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Do truly love the look of the ARB Deluxe steps too mate, especially on your ripper beast [emoji106][emoji106]
Honestly depending on your next adventures planned by the sounds of it you may well be betterer off cashing up those beauties and going next level.
Have found putting Mrs MB’s tourer through Tassie adventures that 40NB light gauge steel steps (albeit poorly paddock designed only too) dinged, then heart shaped, then folded etc....
As a minimum you should seek 2.5mm maybe even 3.2mm walls on 40NB if needing to get gnarly and rest on a rock or two [emoji106][emoji106]
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I removed all my flare seals and drilled bigger drain holes in the bottom of mine after seeing how much mud and crap they trapped against the body. Now when it gets a wash the flares get a good flush out too. Why try to seal the unsealable? No difference in aesthetics either so a no brainer for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Yeah done that with the front flares but hadn't bothered with the rears. Will be doing this though...Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasnart
When ISO kicks in. I’m just finding shit to do...
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Gave the black trims a light sand and a new coat of jam.
Even remove the door trims and then the outer door handles and cleaned and polished where the handle sits.
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Fuck it’s cold in the garage...
And I’ve only removed one side. It took maybe seven hours plus to remove and clean the door and black trims.
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I will keep these steps mate. They are strong as an ox. They certainly aren’t light duty. And I like the look of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by MB
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Looking good Markie, might be time for a wood heater in the shed lol soo good. . .
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Yeah well when the extension is finished, there will be a new garage next to this one for me, but 10m long. Seriously thinking about putting a wood heater in there. But then again, I want to demolish the old carport, level it out and build a big shed there for me. With a wood heater.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
Maybe just an extra “slider” rail then below and slightly chassis closer than the current step rail are you thinking mate? My little experiences find most lower sill damage has been prevented from upcoming 45 degree angle objects leaning against/around. Tuff chassis’s our old Patrols, somewhat Sliders in their own rights [emoji106][emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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clearly your a Hack mate.... :pQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Thanks Darren....Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD
So I removed the rhs strips and plastic guards. Gave the door strips a sand and paint and new flare rubbers fitted. Also had to re align the rear bar as it was slightly tilted back and the ends of the bar were resting against the rear flares. (Tilted backward)
All fixed.
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The beast!
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Truly do appreciate your truck Mark Mate!
Having had the pleasure of a quick chauffeured run in it once was amazed at its better than showroom feel on our woeful council corrugations up here.
Full credit to you bloke for always keeping atop of even the slightest rattle, she’s a beaut of old better than new [emoji106][emoji106]
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Thanks Mark.
I’m certainly picky at having things working as they should, if not better.
I also drilled out some drain holes for the front guards.
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Also all flares except for the front left and left rear door were removed and had new seals fitted. The rear 1/4 flares have taken a few hits and the seals would fit exactly right. This annoyed the shot outta me but I ain’t forking out the coin for new flares do I just did the best I could.
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I also fitted up some 5mm thick white foam seal around the rear barn door frames.
As I have had this constant issue of exhaust fumes getting in the cab. Even with new door seals I could feel air escaping out of the rear door when the A/c is on full so I can only assume the exhaust fumes in entering via the rear barn door.
Hard to see in the pics but the new seals run the perimeter of the frame where the door seals meet.
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Looks great Mark, hats off to ya!
Totally agreed mate, disgusting Mr Nissan’s OEM price for them plastic foot long bits!Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Pretty sure we paid $200+ when Mrs MB was checking her Faceache whilst turning right through a gate clipping it off, 3.6m gate was only $136 :-)
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someone's knicked you aerial and winch rope.
looks great comrade.
Aerial is off because the GU is getting garage love, and no rope because the winch is not wired in yet. Waiting for stage 4 lockdown to end so @matfew can wave his wiring magic.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10G
So. It of a setback. Not what I really wanted or need to be doing right now.
The Patrol for some time has alway used a bit of oil when on long trips and especially when towing. Tried to ignore it and was telling myself it’s me just not checking the levels properly. But the last oil change I dumped a mere 8litres of oil.
The inter cooler always has a fairly consistent oily film in it. But the intake side of the turbo is bone dry.
My original thoughts was the motor, but after seeing the intake dry the turbo must be shot in some way.
So I removed the intake pipe and had a feel of the impeller.
Assuming there is supposed to be no play in it. Mine has. Feck!
So.
Any tips on removing a Garret low mount Turbo? Never done this before. Just start pulling bits off I suppose....
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Bugger mate that sux. Yeah mine uses a little and not sure if turbo is letting a bit through or a little from engine, anyhow have discounted it and don't worry too much lol. . Yeah fairly straight forward to get the turbo off, the flange nuts on the manifold will be your biggest hurdle can be an absolute prick to get to and most likely will need to make custom spanner from an old ringy to get in there. .
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Sorry mate can only suggest the way it comes off is the way it goes on. I know not much help. Have a search around the Goggle machine, might find some tips.
Going to replace it or going different brand/size?
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Is it a ball bearing or bush turbo? Bush will have a little play as standard.
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Ball bearing turbo...Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
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I didn’t put it in so....Quote:
Originally Posted by jay see
Not sure what to do here. See if I can repair it first. I don’t like the idea of spending big $$ on a new turbo. If I did though. I will go a smaller turbo I think. And something that can just be bolted in replace of what’s there. I cannot be arsed mucking around.
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Definitely not burning oil somewhere else mate? I would have thought the oil would collect quite significantly in the intercooler ect if it was using a noticeable amount of oil. As in, I would expect oil to be running out, not just residual build up. You're talking a couple of litres missing over a service period aren't you? Should be pooling in the pipes everywhere. If it was being pushed past the exhaust side then you should be noticing it burning/blue smoke.
Tried running it with the intercooler side hose off the turbo to see how much oil is being spat out? Again, I'd expect it to be significant if this is your issue. The one I recently swapped off the patrol had quite a bit of play and was quite oily but I never noticed it 'using' oil.
Not saying your wrong, or it's not at least contributing but most used turbos (at least from my experience) have a bit of play in them without significant issues.
I've experience with just the one turbo leaking oil and it leaked a lot, shit everywhere. There was no doubt.
Dunno mate. Just spit balling.
I had a compression test done last year when my first concerns about it came to head, and was all good. The only smoke from the exhaust is soot. No white or grey smoke at all. One of my customers is a Garret dealer and I spoke to him a while back and he seems to think it the turbo.
Most of the driving this Patrol does its towing, and I have notice this is when I find the intercooler see’s a lot of oil.
I am going to ring my customer tomorrow and have another chat with them anyway.
So I’ve gotten as far as everything is unbolted from the turbo, just the four nuts that hold the turbo onto the manifold.
These bastards won’t budge.
Am I better off removing the manifold with the turbo on it?
If I can...
There ain’t a lot of room there.
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Give it a good soak at least overnight hopefully will do the trick. Can't remember the name of the place but when AB had dramas with his turbo they had the facility to do full bench test with everything hooked up. They're in Baysie from memory night be worth getting them to have a look. . Has it done it from new?
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Well, turbo is probably the easier of all the possibilities to fix anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
Probably less headache to deal with the 4 bolts/studs at the turbo. I'd avoid removing the manifold unless you have too, just a whole bunch more studs to risk breaking. There's a couple painful manifold studs too from memory, one stuck right near the firewall with limited access. Did mine not that long ago.
Just on that, I'm pretty sure one of the turbo studs on mine took all the thread with it and I ended up just drilling it through and replacing with a bolt. They were stuck tight.
Thanks. I can't even see one of the nuts holding the turbo on. So stuffed if I can get to it. I'm assuming I can. It hasn't done this from new but its probably been a good three years I reckon when I first noticed this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco
I'm going to have a chat with Peter at RM Turbochargers today and try to gauge what I should be doing.