Why not? Are you fittings not threaded into the diff housings?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
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Why not? Are you fittings not threaded into the diff housings?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudski
I've got the same ones on my car, it's a straight swap for whats on it now but I don't think mine has a right angle goes straight upQuote:
Originally Posted by mudski
These are the same fittings used for airbags also
Straight up for the diffs but 90's for tnsfr and gboxQuote:
Originally Posted by megatexture
Quote:
Originally Posted by megatexture
I will have to take a closer look. To be honest I have never really had a good look at the fitting on the diff. I know the transfer and gearbox are threaded. I had replace the OEM breather hose for longer ones and the barb looked to me it was simply welded onto the diff. As the barb more looks like a thin piece of tube and the breather hose was clamped onto it.Quote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
I need to do mine like Growlers but I will use rubber and one single hose running along the chassis from back (rear diff) to front in the engine bay, and the transfer, gearbox and front diff will simple join into this single hose via T pieces. I did this on my MK and it worked really well.
Haven't done it yet but going to move the LED light for my Autron cruise control
into my pillar pod,easier to see,
ATM its behind the "T" of the steering wheel and not visable whilst driving
Also fitting another volt gauge to the centre dash ,left side for my AUX battery
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181455438...84.m1497.l2649
Will put some pics when done
Ordered the Superior Engineering battery tray for the TB48 as I'm 'fairly' sure I can work out something to relocate the washer bottle even with the LPG.
The only challenge is I'll need to find somebody to install the weld bolt for me as I've not touched a welder since my teens and I'm not confident enough to do so in the engine bay. (nor for that matter do I own a welder).
http://www.piranhaoffroad.com.au/lib...ting_guide.pdf
Billy Bleed is trying to fit a second battery as well in his Dual fuel Patrol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Agronaught
Pics would help if you get everything to fit
the arb ones come with a nut on a breakoff rod that you poke into the gaurd through the gap behind the headlight, makes it so easy instead of welding.
I have a nasty dent some sob left in the drivers door that needs to be fixed. I imagine a smash repair place could fix that and weld in a bolt at the same time...
I'll look into that after my trip in December.
Hate to say it but drilled a hole in the centre dash for my AUX battery volt meter,
Ive also cut the hole for the led switch, so think there goes my no drill policy lol
Shimmed and locked my diffs :)
Installed a cargo barrier and finished my barn door fold down table today.
Got inspired, took some good advice went and bought all new oil ie diffs, transfer case and gear box climbed under armed with my best socket set cannot remove a single filler plug. I was told on this forum I should remove filler before i drain
Thank god I read the threads or I would now have an empty diff and no way of putting the oil back in.
Starting to think I may have to pay a mechanic for this one dont want to do any damage?
How much force can you use on the filler plug?
Is it worth getting an impact wrench , air or cordless
or do i get get the mash hammer and go to town on the socket handel ?
As much as is needed. The drain plug will probably be as hard. I used an electric impact gun to get the bastards out
Would not recommend impact equipment on fill/drain plugs. The rattling has a tendancy to round and then it makes the job harder. A good crack on the plug with a hammer should shock it enough.
Short of that get more leverage. Jack the car higher so you can get more swing. Use a breaker bar.
Unsure what vehicle you have, but assuming its just ya standard 1/2" plugs then make sure any mud is scraped out so a good purchase is acheived.
Got my Dawes setup just right..... very happy.......
And check your escape route cause if the breaker bar slips you could be in a whole world of pain
started on my 20 ltr water tank. should work well IMO
will use a 3/4 ball valve as a tap better flow,
fill is via the top
Stuck a light bar on the roof rack
Stage one of operation wash cars.......... step one, got the power washer out, crawled underneath the MightyGQ and blasted away, then on the the outside to wash off all the loose dust n dirt before getting the sponge out........ then coffee break :)
Use open hands and the correct technique and this can be greatly reduced.Quote:
Originally Posted by threedogs
Stage one of operation wash cars now complete............... one car down, two to goQuote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
Was a very funny letter from a reader of 4WD monthly years ago, , for some reasonQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
he had the front wheel off his GQ and was sitting in the cavity with a hammer, what ever he hit it rebounded hitting his head.
so he threw his head back hitting the inner guard bang then pushed his head forward hitting his forehead, which caused him to throw his head back you get the picture this continued till his brain stopped rattling and he came to a halt, He cracked a beer and PHSL
Stage 2 complete........ 2 down, 1 more to go but that will have to wait till later. Missus has "done her back in", so muggins here has to go get the food shop :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Clunk
Motor in, loom all connected and running. Finally!
Just a few more things to do. Replace the clutch slave cylinder (one of the apprentices that was helping me jumped in and pushed the clutch in, while the slave cylinder was not connected to the clutch fork, and this has the pushrod all the way out of the slave cylinder) replace the starter motor and alternator (The ones from the donor motor aren't much chop) install the 2" lifted springs from the donor. Install the bonnet , front grille and lights.
After six months of the engine not running and sitting on my back porch, it fired up second go and no clouds of smoke and no leaks either! Not bad for an IT engineer.
Thanks to Rust Nail and Todd for their assistance earlier this year and helping me pull my engine out.
Woo Hoo! nearly ready for rego.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v...13453317946836
Cheers,
Rob
Long bar and a heavy rubber malletQuote:
Originally Posted by nissannewby
Extended the rear diff breather. Ran it up to the front. I went up the drivers side to stay away from the exhaust and cat converter with a rubber hose, is this what everyone else does. Just terminated it with a miniature in line fuel filter. I ran the hose behind the wiper motor, this gave me a nice radius on the hose to allow the breath to point back tow at the ground.
Might do the front 3 tonight, they're pretty high as it is, so not as much to gain and therefore lower in the priority list..
Finished off my rear door table on the weekend.
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...psee46bd77.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4991ed88.jpg
http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/...ps305ed76f.jpg
Pretty happy with how it came up :D
Also extended my rear diff breather last night, might do the the other 3 tonight but they're pretty high up anyway.
Hooked up the led lights today and fitted some bilstien shocks. Pretty happy with the LEDs.
Attachment 51817
Attachment 51818
It was actually yesterday arvo till 3am this morning, yay no more rust or stone chips on my roof!!!Attachment 51820Attachment 51821Attachment 51822
What are your thoughts good enough for outback roads ???Quote:
Originally Posted by Stropp
Bloody awesome mate
p
Put my newish rack around the back to work on, first off it needs drain holes on every leg.
No wonder these racks spew rust,
Then figure out shovel holders,light bar bracket and re roller Open to suggestions as well maybe a
gas bottle bracket as well
.
Drain holes? The legs aren't tube are they? I've only herd of the iron man racks leaking rust and they are a different design
What I'm about to do LOL. Waiting for the neighborhood to wake up so I can gerni the ute, and sand the fibreglass repairs on the pod, the vacuum screams!
Finally ran a breather from the rear diff to the engine bay.
Its getting a little warm to be under the car, later today I should be able to extend the breathers for the front diff, gearbox and transfer case... assuming I can find where they terminate...
Checked mine out the other day, the 3 of them are steel pipe and enter the guard void above the front left wheel. Have no idea what's on the end of them but figure they are high enough. Be interested to see what you find.Quote:
Originally Posted by Agronaught
I'm thinking they may best be left until I get around to a snorkel. I'll have a gander anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by macca
Its just a shite design I reckon each upright between top and bottom loop would hold half a cup of water easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by megatexture
Its fully welded so water has nowhere to go,
@ Mega do you have this style rack?