So the the old GUrl is up for new suspension. Torn between 3 or 4inch.

I'm pickup some new 35's tomorrow. I was under the troll yesty putting the locker back in and took, yet another, look at the shocks on my OME kit and they are fubar. Springs are shagged too. As it stands now, I have 25mm spacers in there and it sits exactly the same it did when the 2inch OME kit was put in 10 years ago. So its definitely fubar. Now I first had in mind a 4inch lift but as I run around with 31inch roadies on its gonna look crap and I reckon it might be cop bait like this too. So then I'm thinking should I just go a 3inch kit. But will the 3inch be enough for the 35's?
I realise I need drop boxes , front and rear panhards but the control arms do I need upper or lower for the rear? BA and myself were chatting and he has longer lowers but then I see a comment MR has said about using upper arms. These need to be shorter don't they? Which do I need or can get away with for now until the funds are better to get both. I'd love to get both as I would obviously get stronger ones but I don't think I can stretch the budget right now.

Cheers.

My neighbour's gu sat on 3 inch and ran 35's.... not issue at all from memory.

Thanks. My mind keeps telling me I'm technically over the legal limit anyway, just go the 4inch. But then I think if I go 3inch it won't look as sus with the roadies on. Unless I find some 33inch AT's at a good price I might be good for 4inch. But then its more $$$. Arghh! The more I spend here the more I take from the TD42 build savings, which is almost the lot already.

there is a big difference between a 3" and a 4" lift Mark. A 3" lift you will Not Need Panards front or rear, you will not need Uppers or Lowers. Big $$ savings there for sure.

My GUIV has a 3" lift. Drop Boxes, HD Drag link, Brake lines shocks and springs. I run HD lower arms as they are very exposed and i like strong stuff, standard length though and no dramas at all. My GQ runs standard length lowers and adjustable uppers to realign the pinion angle of the rear diff.

additionally for a 4" lift you will need front and rear Panards, Adjustable Upper trailing arms (there is basically $1000 added to the lift)

Why not a Flexi coil 3" job will flex 4" easy
Other than having to get it engineered what will a 4" do a 3" wont.
even a good 2" will see you go most places, with a locker even better

I took MR 's advice and went a 3 inch lift. Not so tall it's cop bait, but tall enough for most things. Keeps centre of gravity that little lower aswell. I run 35's and had to cut the back of the front guard and the back of the rear guard aswell as the quarter chop. I ran the original lower arms and on full flex the tyres tucked up perfectly in the guards! I did change them to standard length superior items because they are weak as piss! I also run adjustable panhards after I bent my rear one into a boomerang. I also run 31's sometimes and it looks ridiculous. It looks like a skateboard! I changed my lower control arms because they are a known weak point. The old ones were about 2kg and the new ones 8.5kg. A little stronger! Also if you do change your lower with superior don't just say you want standard length because they are not all the same as I found out. So you need to measure them, My standard length lower arms are actually + 10mm from superior.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD

there is a big difference between a 3" and a 4" lift Mark. A 3" lift you will Not Need Panards front or rear, you will not need Uppers or Lowers. Big $$ savings there for sure.

My GUIV has a 3" lift. Drop Boxes, HD Drag link, Brake lines shocks and springs. I run HD lower arms as they are very exposed and i like strong stuff, standard length though and no dramas at all. My GQ runs standard length lowers and adjustable uppers to realign the pinion angle of the rear diff.

additionally for a 4" lift you will need front and rear Panards, Adjustable Upper trailing arms (there is basically $1000 added to the lift)

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Thanks Darren. You reckon the 3inch will be good with 35's though? Or am I just better off going 4 and be done with it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by threedogs

Why not a Flexi coil 3" job will flex 4" easy
Other than having to get it engineered what will a 4" do a 3" wont.
even a good 2" will see you go most places, with a locker even better

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Its more for the tyre size too John. 35's under a 2inch lift is gonna be real close I reckon. The 2inch is o.k but if I'm doing it. Why not go a little higher? What will getting it engineered prove? Its still technically illegal isn't it? Engineered or not?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 89gqpatrol4x4

I took MR 's advice and went a 3 inch lift. Not so tall it's cop bait, but tall enough for most things. Keeps centre of gravity that little lower aswell. I run 35's and had to cut the back of the front guard and the back of the rear guard aswell as the quarter chop. I ran the original lower arms and on full flex the tyres tucked up perfectly in the guards! I did change them to standard length superior items because they are weak as piss! I also run adjustable panhards after I bent my rear one into a boomerang. I also run 31's sometimes and it looks ridiculous. It looks like a skateboard! I changed my lower control arms because they are a known weak point. The old ones were about 2kg and the new ones 8.5kg. A little stronger! Also if you do change your lower with superior don't just say you want standard length because they are not all the same as I found out. So you need to measure them, My standard length lower arms are actually + 10mm from superior.

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Thanks but you have a GQ. Different story with a GU mate. I won't be going down the quarter chop route aswell. Not for a long time...

How good are flexi coils too? Damn expensive they are...

3 inch is enough for the 35s. when I had them on with my 2" the only place they rubbed was on the fuel filler guard (plastic easily remoulded with a heat gun) and on full flex up in the rear wheel arch just above the chassis