Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[PeeBee]

New passenger side rocker cover, 2 rocker assy's and gasket sealant on the way from WA - thats the limit of support - bit disappointing, but its better than nothin'. Appears today the leaks were across 3/4 cylinders on the drivers bank and 2/4 on the passenger. Thinking the s/h torque to yieldbolts(suspected) bolts have stretched further under the additional pressure from the s/c. Both Bullet and Brunswick now tell me they fit ARP studbolts for this application - bit late guys to be telling me now. Peanuts. Anyway, friday is looking doubtful to get the beast back, so possibly monday. Does not matter much now we are back into another 7 day lockdown I guess. Heads been wash ground and back with mechanic. Soluble oil coolant affected the radiator hoses - started to permeate the rubber, like seepage. Contact the supplier and seems the batch i bought 2 yrs ago had a chemical compatibility issue which they have since corrected, so the latest coolant I have just purchased has the modified formula and is now 100% compatible with rubber - bloody typical, another 2 radiator hoses and heater hoses need replacement. Supplier offered to send another batch for free, but declined the offer, I don't need it and its more annoying in the scheme of things at the moment.

[PeeBee]

I have been having issues with belt squeal since the beginning of the vee belt to 8 rib multi vee conversion belt drive. mudski put me onto a tool to measure the actual belt tension, which is another way to eliminate if the noise is from a belt drive that is too small for the duty, there is a drive friction issue or the auto tensioner is faulty. Gates make this device and its simplicity, so i have purchased one and await its arrival. i have also included the youtube link as there are two devices, avail and you can also measure vee belt tension with high accuracy instead of using the highly variable 'finger deflection' technique that we all tend to use. The belt alignment issues are resolved and I am now trialling a standard duty gates belt as apposed to the fleetguard to ascertain if there is a difference. The green fleetguard is more rigid in feel than the standard, however does run a lot more noisy - seems i get a distinct 'click' release of the back surface against the smooth idler rollers, which settles down after about 20 mins, however sounds like a bearing is about to let go at times - will see if the standard duty lasts or the fleetguard goes back on .

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/143011685323
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=gates+krikit+belt+tension+tool+youtube&docid=608021185775815221&mid=BF94D684A21D05E8D23CBF94D684A21D05E8D23C&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

[PeeBee]

Krikit belt tensioner arrived today, tested the belt after speaking with the gates engineer about an auto tensioner value for the belt. A table was supplied, attached below which may be of value to others with serpentine belts and Vee belts with manual and auto tensioners. My belt tension is smack in the middle of the range, so happy with that. Also, driveway rpm testing with the standard duty belt didn't exhibit any belt squeal, so big drive tomorrow to test that out under load.
846198462084621

[rusty_nail]

fingers crossed you get it sorted out soon mate!

[PeeBee]

fingers crossed you get it sorted out soon mate!Taking it out for a spin either tomorrow or Friday, looks like it's fixed, better be!!!!

[PeeBee]

OK, fiddling around yesterday, and after speaking with Bullet S/C they dont have a fast idle setup, so knocked up this one as the template. 6 hrs in the making, doesn't look like it but its sort of done, need to finish welding it using the right rods and its done.84631

[PeeBee]

OK, completed the bracket above, what a total details nightmare. Getting the configuration to operate on a crazy offset took hours, but happy with it now, rewelded using the right rods and cleaned up very well. Funny how the only thing I could buy was a solenoid valve, which i did, however it was impossible to fit - s/c as usual complicating the installation.

Next is the in-line fuel heater and temp probes and then the remote fuel shut off assy. Been putting these off as simply sick of getting covered in diesel under the car.

[mudski]

you need to take the Patrol to Darrens place and use his hoist?

[PeeBee]

Yeah, a 5T hoist is going into the shed at Wiseleigh. i have sort of finished under the car excepting the final shut off valve - I have bought some fuel line clamps for this so hope the amount of fuel I coat myself in is limited.

[PeeBee]

Water Meth tank installed and hooked up yesterday. All working as it should, hard to tell if any difference idling in the driveway, even with application setpoint on 100% of the time. Will see how the EGT's are effected when I get it out.

Need to get the a/c gas levels re-checked as the cabin cooling is not what it was before the heads came off, thinking its a gas charge issue with the interchiller.

Jury rigged the installation of the Renogy 3kw inverter - not yet convinced it can be mounted vertically as the mount feet are plastic and held on with 8 small screws. Need to dream about that a bit longer.

Renogy dual battery unit was only intermittently charging or cycling whilst the car was running, 120secs on, 600secs off, so another gremlin to resolve i guess.

Belt alignment issues look like they are resolved and no belt squeal. Hoping 2022 is a good clean reliable year.

[PeeBee]

OK, took the beast out today for a 2hr squirt. A/C decided to give up the ghost, so have to get that checked out, maybe a gas issue. water Meth system drops the EGT's by around 40 - 50 deg it seems at 100khr. Hard to really tell as the gauges are subject to some inaccuracy. The motor sounds different though and its runs smoother also. Apart from that, no belt squeal, and belt drift looks like its resolved. Renogy charge controller issue appears to have been temperature related as its working fine now.

Revs at 1625rpm@100kmhr, egts circa 200degC. Radiator on temp sits around the 84degC and when it climbs to say 95 I hit the spray bar and it takes about 15 secs before the temps drop again, so thats a good sign also.

Second diesel fuel heater installed, was leaking fuel by the time I got home. I pulled the first one apart and it appears to have been leaking from the thermo switch insert which is a metal plug pushed into the plastic body. Not happy, another round of emails back to the USA.

[poindexter]

looks to me that things are working out finally for you PB.
good to hear that the engine is smoother, thats got to be a good thing.
your rpm at 100kmh is remarkably low for the gearing, you'd be happy with that outcome too.
this year might be the time to enjoy....

[PeeBee]

looks to me that things are working out finally for you PB.
good to hear that the engine is smoother, thats got to be a good thing.
your rpm at 100kmh is remarkably low for the gearing, you'd be happy with that outcome too.
this year might be the time to enjoy....

Lets hope so, how is your journey proceeding?

[PeeBee]

Second diesel heater leaking, clearly from the flange construction, not the barbs, changed the hoses and clamps and 15 secs after starting the engine the heater starts weeping at the joint. I have already bought a different style at higher price now as this one is failing I believe due to the high lift pump pressure of 13psig at idle. Maybe this unit is for applications without a lift pump? Bit annoying, but another learning, wasnt that cheap either, circa $100USD, so should have worked.

[poindexter]

Lets hope so, how is your journey proceeding?

the journey is at this stage rather slow,
with COVID and a family member passing away, the Ute has been on the back burner.

but, 'tis a new year, and now its time to press on.
did the drivers door with the sound deadener, now onto the passenger side.

had a bit of a drama with the rpm sensor on the engine being the wrong kind, but all sorted now.

[PeeBee]

the journey is at this stage rather slow,
with COVID and a family member passing away, the Ute has been on the back burner.

but, 'tis a new year, and now its time to press on.
did the drivers door with the sound deadener, now onto the passenger side.

had a bit of a drama with the rpm sensor on the engine being the wrong kind, but all sorted now.

Sorry to hear about your loss Ralph. Where did you end up sourcing the two wire sensor from? I found a supplier in China however it was a major drama getting the items - took months to arrive.

[poindexter]

got the sensor from Dewars, arrived in 5 days I think

[MudRunnerTD]

OK, took the beast out today for a 2hr squirt. A/C decided to give up the ghost, so have to get that checked out, maybe a gas issue. water Meth system drops the EGT's by around 40 - 50 deg it seems at 100khr. Hard to really tell as the gauges are subject to some inaccuracy. The motor sounds different though and its runs smoother also. Apart from that, no belt squeal, and belt drift looks like its resolved. Renogy charge controller issue appears to have been temperature related as its working fine now.

Revs at 1625rpm@100kmhr, egts circa 200degC. Radiator on temp sits around the 84degC and when it climbs to say 95 I hit the spray bar and it takes about 15 secs before the temps drop again, so thats a good sign also.

Second diesel fuel heater installed, was leaking fuel by the time I got home. I pulled the first one apart and it appears to have been leaking from the thermo switch insert which is a metal plug pushed into the plastic body. Not happy, another round of emails back to the USA.

Wow! 1625rpm at 100kms. Sounds like a Diesel Locomotive mate. just chugging along. From 1625 how is the power deliver curve? does it burst from there or lags up to 2200 and then takes off well?

[PeeBee]

Wow! 1625rpm at 100kms. Sounds like a Diesel Locomotive mate. just chugging along. From 1625 how is the power deliver curve? does it burst from there or lags up to 2200 and then takes off well?

No lag at all, hit the peddle and it takes off all the way to the redline if need be. I drive it fairly gently to be honest, keeping an eye on the egts and the fuel flowrate, which is quite brutal at WOT. Easy to punch hard all day, but going to pay for it at the pump. Max boost is 16psi, which is a safe limit I understand - would be a mental play thing above that - have trouble at time in the bush with its response and subsequent pants filling outcome! Its not a racer, certainly many other stock 4wd's would smash it from an off the line acceleration perspective, but is simple, I can fix it and keep it going and it doesn't fill the skyline with black smaoke under load or cruising down the road like its earlier N/A version or the 2.8 TD used to.

Played around looking at the a/c and I think its the charge load put in when the heads were done - too low. The setup for the interchiller requires some 'back to basics' gas loading apparently, its not a plug and fill to relief situation, so I will try and get that resolved this week before returning to site - provide the Omicron/Delta situation in QLD does not go nuclear by sunday.

I have been watching your build with interest also, astounded at the bravery screwing around with so much of a brand spanking vehicle - unlike my own that is 1997 vintage and I dont care what or how I attack it!!

[MudRunnerTD]

Cheers mate, is a bit of a mission. But I'm enjoying getting to know the new car.

What psi have you got the SC set at? That then compounds to the Turbo yeah? 1 turbo not 2? That's right yeah?

[PeeBee]

Cheers mate, is a bit of a mission. But I'm enjoying getting to know the new car.

What psi have you got the SC set at? That then compounds to the Turbo yeah? 1 turbo not 2? That's right yeah?

Just a Harrop 2300 running the 16psi pulley. I would love the twin turbo feed like on the Banks test Motor, but frankly this engine isn't built for that kind of HP. The Banks engine runs twin turbo's into a s/c, and makes around 1200hp.

[PeeBee]

Finger gotta itchy today after 2 weeks in a nightmare project stage so bought a Marks 4x4 hydro booster to go over the Willwoods. Expect a significant braking upgrade moving forward. The barge is still quit heavy despite efforts to trim it down.

[Cremulator]

I will watch this development with curious anticipation!

[poindexter]

Finger gotta itchy today after 2 weeks in a nightmare project stage so bought a Marks 4x4 hydro booster to go over the Willwoods. Expect a significant braking upgrade moving forward. The barge is still quit heavy despite efforts to trim it down.

Hi Pee Bee

Have you thought about the aux electric pumps capacity to run the steering and the brakes?
I talked to Ultimate Power Steering, and they said you'd need 12l/m flow and the electric pumps generally provide 3ishl/m, as I looked at replacing the engine driven pump with an electric pump.

[PeeBee]

Hi Pee Bee

Have you thought about the aux electric pumps capacity to run the steering and the brakes?
I talked to Ultimate Power Steering, and they said you'd need 12l/m flow and the electric pumps generally provide 3ishl/m, as I looked at replacing the engine driven pump with an electric pump.

Are you referring to the Astra electric unit I carry as an emerg breakdown device? I am sure it will be fine. I cant see a need for 12L/min thru the power steering system anyway, but no doubt there are others with alternate viewpoints. The amount of liquid volume is actually captive within the system - bit confused by the question to be honest!

[poindexter]

Yes, I was referring to the Astra pump. It's not a viewpoint thing, just a flow in l/min thing. Wanting to know if the Astra unit will drive both at the same time. Do you know the specs of the Astra pump?. I'm looking at replacing the engine driven P/S pump with this. They seem readily available and cheap.

[PeeBee]

Yes, I was referring to the Astra pump. It's not a viewpoint thing, just a flow in l/min thing. Wanting to know if the Astra unit will drive both at the same time. Do you know the specs of the Astra pump?. I'm looking at replacing the engine driven P/S pump with this. They seem readily available and cheap.

I don't know the specs but there must exist a listing somewhere. I selected it because its used by a lot of people building hotrods and looking to clean up the engine bay. I would assume it would be sufficient. When I looked at the Hydraboost I could not find a mention about system flowrate or capacity. Working on the assumption that the brakes and PS are closed loop, and the amount of fluid required to operate the actuator, I can't see an issue with the standard saginaw pump - I guess the question is the flowrate sufficient to operate or will the PS slowdown or the brakes fade?. If you find the specs on it and the electric I guess you have your answer. I would think if it works for the PS then the pissant amount for the brakes will be fine, again the system is closed loop once filled to the level and oil being incompressible would think it ok. Even 3L/min is a lot of fluid, and its not like its escaping from the loop - anyway thats my 'impression, maybe not the answer? I have not tried my system out, its rigged up with the hoses and its there to get me out of the bush if the saginaw fails, even slowly.

[jff45]

If you look at the pressure reserve reservoir on the hydroboost unit it doesn't look like it would hold more than maybe 200 ml considering there's also a piston & spring in the cylinder and it should be good for a couple of brake applications if the pump fails. That suggests it doesn't need a lot for the brakes.

I saw it was suggested that you might feel the occasional hard spot in the steering when manoeuvring and braking at the same time but I've never felt it with my installation.

[PeeBee]

Finished the hydraulic oil cooler assy today, wired up the fan with external switch. Some would say it was satisfying, nah, another PIA job to get to the end point. Sorted out the air compressor setup and just need to do the final fitting sealing. Sorting out the power cable to the rear pod tomorrow, finally worked out how to run the 16mm cable from front to rear without snagging the exhaust manifold.
Interchiller modified assy with second pump is waiting for the new brass gear pump to arrive, checked the hoses today and they are not crimped, so its simply a piss poor pumping capability of the davies craig unit - another lesson repeated.
Should be ready to mount the canopy next week and free it from its home of 12 months in Yarra Glen, then commence the wiring to get it ready for operation. Getting closer by the mm every day.

[PeeBee]

If you look at the pressure reserve reservoir on the hydroboost unit it doesn't look like it would hold more than maybe 200 ml considering there's also a piston & spring in the cylinder and it should be good for a couple of brake applications if the pump fails. That suggests it doesn't need a lot for the brakes.

I saw it was suggested that you might feel the occasional hard spot in the steering when manoeuvring and braking at the same time but I've never felt it with my installation.

Rounding back on this conversation, I have had mine on the road now and cannot detect any deficiency in either steering or brakes. The hydroboost over the willwoods is great, very firm and progressive and pulls up far better than anything to date i have had. The Astra remains as the energ backup system, however probably one of those things that will never get used - with luck.

[jff45]

Rounding back on this conversation, I have had mine on the road now and cannot detect any deficiency in either steering or brakes. The hydroboost over the willwoods is great, very firm and progressive and pulls up far better than anything to date i have had. The Astra remains as the energ backup system, however probably one of those things that will never get used - with luck.

I'm still happy with mine, works well once the ECB pads have warmed up. I've also now fitted a VF Commodore UP28 electric vacuum pump for the factory diff lock so I can get rid of the vacuum pump on the alternator.

[PeeBee]

I'm still happy with mine, works well once the ECB pads have warmed up. I've also now fitted a VF Commodore UP28 electric vacuum pump for the factory diff lock so I can get rid of the vacuum pump on the alternator.

John, the Willwood pads were a shitshow to begin with, needed to be bedded in and the first corner out of the garage the car 'slid forward with full brakes, frightening. Anyway, after they were 'conditioned they stopped ok, well better than the twin pot calipers. The hydroboost finishes it off for me , very similar to a passenger car performance, not a bit heavy truck. I purchased a Proflow vac pump to run as a spare before I went Hydroboost, cant find it, so bought another smaller vac pump as the spear, but I only have cruise control and clutch booster under vac, so can live with the chev vac pump going out.

[PeeBee]

Getting closer, inch by inch. Ran the big wire down to the back today, sheathed it in 3/4" heater hose for mechanical protection, spent a good 2 hrs resolving a potential hot spot where Brunswick have shoe horned the chev into the engine bay, but close to the brake line. Sheathed the brake line in 1100 degC super insulation, then installed 4 layers of high temp fibregalss aluminised matting over that, and installed some spacer blocks under the interchiller lines to create an air gap where the EGT probe - also insulated in the 1100 degC sheath, passes under it.
The details take the time.
Piped up the hydraulic cooler yesterday and let the sealant 24hrs to cure, ran it up and no leaks. the cooler hold a full half volume of the tank which was a surprise, so next job is to top the hydraulic reservoir up, out with the tailshaft - nothing like great access on this build. Resealed the services box under the tray, all ready to pick the pod up from MB on Wednesday and bring it home. (waiting for the wife to go out then transfer a layer of storage to her side of the garage so the new truck with canopy will fit, working on a whole new level of sneaky!)
Omce home there is maybe another 60hrs of electrical and final fit out to complete the pod. Heading back to the mine at the end of next week for two weeks, so program gets a break.

[jff45]

John, the Willwood pads were a shitshow to begin with, needed to be bedded in and the first corner out of the garage the car 'slid forward with full brakes, frightening. Anyway, after they were 'conditioned they stoffed ok, well better than the twin pot calipers. The hydroboost finishes it off for me , very similar to a passenger car performance, not a bit heavy truck. I purchased a Proflow vac pump to run as a spare before I went Hydroboost, cant find it, so bought another smaller vac pump as the spear, but I only have cruise control and brake booster under vac, so can live with the chev vac pump going out.

My factory cruise control, which I've now removed, has its own little vacuum pump in the unit on the firewall.

[PeeBee]

The beast is home with the canopy on, thanks to MB and his trusty shed and tractor. Boost pump developed a faultand essentially stopped the car, think I will be looking at a different make, the Aeroflow has done a good job - need to ensure its not electrical first, as the pressure was wavering on the fuel pressure gauge and then stopped boosting all together. It was given a rest for 5 minutes and has not missed a beat since - dont know yet.

[PeeBee]

Swapped out the Aeroflow Lift Pump to the carter Black today, was a journey of differences, but 4 hrs later all done with new mounting configuration. I have heard a lot of people saying the carter Black was a noisy pump, would disagree, its quieter than the Aeroflow, better vibration isolation , sits at 12PSIG at idle as the Aeroflow does, and does not drop under acceleration, so happy days, still have a spare Aeroflow if this dies out the back of nowhere. Couple of minor tidy up, still need to rsolve the interchiller circuit, I changed it on the advice of the supplier and it isn't performing - bit more thought required. Apart from that , looking great. Back to the mine to 2 weeks so in a good place I think.

[PeeBee]

Slider kit finally arrived after 6 weeks - they must have been busy. Looks a good kit, precision made, all notched, just need to weld then paint, happy days. Going to plate top and bottom using the left over tray checker plate87999

[PeeBee]

2 hrs transferring 4l of hydraulic fluid into the hydraulic winch tank, holy shit that pumping is hard work under the car. reconfigured the interchiller pump circuit back to standard, still a few minor corrections and tidy up tomorrow. Starting on sliders after that.

[BrazilianY60]

I would expect a weld on kit to be just a bunch of loose parts, that seems like it even comes tacked into the correct positions. Awesome.

[PeeBee]

I would expect a weld on kit to be just a bunch of loose parts, that seems like it even comes tacked into the correct positions. Awesome.

No just the packing, all loose, tacked them together today, took 20 mins, after spending 7 hrs fighting with the interchiller pump, that has now been 100% confirmed as dead - pumped at 40lpm with a forced inlet and shot water across the road maybe 6m, but hooked up with a hose system thru the heat exchangers and zero - reckon the seals on the impellar are shot - waiting to hear if a kit is avail - hope so, pump was close to $1000 at the time.88002

[MB]

Looking Great Philstar [emoji106][emoji106]
Only my Nuffy opinion for weight saving Da Beaut Beast Brother [emoji123][emoji123]
There in theory could be another way instead of utilising full length leftover checker plate steel plates both top and bottom (totally understand your forward HC driving snagging smooth deflection log logic)
I believe/hope leaving your new sliders undersides open for cleaning/rust purposes could benefit from this wacky theory [emoji51]
Weld the beaut kit fully up, yes, weld atop leftover checker plate [emoji106][emoji106]
In theory, again, simply weld in short flat bars say 30mm wide x say 3mm thick x slider width underneath @ say 45 degree deflection bars/plates at every round RHS intersection:

https://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2024/04/181.jpg

Best MB AutoCad/Solidworks capabilities [emoji23][emoji3590]

EDIT: Apologies Philstar, meant CHS pipe [emoji22][emoji23]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BrazilianY60]

Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Mark, yes that will work also, sealing it up has some issues if the welds crack or I dont do a good job on the checkerplate. I dont need the weight as you mention. Back at the computer again after 4 days off, so into the soup for now. Looking at some troubleshooting on the interchiller pump, might be voltage related - going to try with a very locat battery and with luck it starts pumping. Can you believe there is no after sales support by way of seals or pump kits for a $1000 pump - answer coming back is bin it and buy another one - its run maybe 30 hrs max. Appalling.

[PeeBee]

Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.

Another good optimisation, thanks.

[PeeBee]

Sorted the Interchiller pump out today, conductor size and volt drop. Rigged up a 200a/hr lithium and short heavy cables, fired the pump up, guaranteed 40lpm by the flowmeter thru the system, happy days, just needs some more heavy duty wiring and relay to resolve completely - one more bee sting sorted. Happy happy days I can assure you.

[MB]

Or both sides to account for when he is reversing.

Perfect Point BZ Brother [emoji3590][emoji3590]
Different Cultures I’m assuming, uz Aussie’s only ever go forward, never backwards….unless we are suckered into LandCrab Tradie Ute Territory’s [emoji51][emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BrazilianY60]

LOL, gold mate!
Usually you only think of going backwards is when you are already stuck, LOL.

[PeeBee]

Interchiller wiring finally resolved, bigger cables, big relay, runs beautifully, see if it delivers, swapping out the water or glycol this arvo.

[PeeBee]

Looks like I am up for a new or remodelled interchiller tank. The location of the tank outlet was deliberately put at 1/3 off the bottom of the tank to reduce any drawdown of crap into the pump inlet. I am now finding the available head above the tank outlet is absolutely zero tolerance between 40lpm lpm flow and 12-18lpm fluctuating if the water level drop by as little as 15mm. I have been looking at flow meters and current draw and temperatures achieved and they are all over the place.

Anyway its not a massive issue in the scheme of things, either make a new tank or whip the existing out and add a lower outlet - just time once again.

So with the flow at 40lpm and the full divert of the water flow thru the interchiller(gas/water heat exchanger) I am getting a good heat reduction in the inlet air post the w2A unit in the inlet manifold. I am able to wash off up to 60 degC from the inlet air post compression, which is great. Makes a big difference in 40 degC days to cruising egt's. Still not great for low range crawling stuff , but the water spray bar on the radiator works very well to keep those blips in check with minimal water consumption.

[MudRunnerTD]

No just the packing, all loose, tacked them together today, took 20 mins, after spending 7 hrs fighting with the interchiller pump, that has now been 100% confirmed as dead - pumped at 40lpm with a forced inlet and shot water across the road maybe 6m, but hooked up with a hose system thru the heat exchangers and zero - reckon the seals on the impellar are shot - waiting to hear if a kit is avail - hope so, pump was close to $1000 at the time.88002

Ghee mate! I reckon that bloke who made those for you was scared of the dark! There is a few extra noggins in there! I see Heavy...Is it Tube or Pipe? I smooth plated the underside so they slider over mud etc and the checker doesnt jag on any edges. Checka on top, smooth on the bottom.

[MudRunnerTD]

2 hrs transferring 4l of hydraulic fluid into the hydraulic winch tank, holy shit that pumping is hard work under the car. reconfigured the interchiller pump circuit back to standard, still a few minor corrections and tidy up tomorrow. Starting on sliders after that.

I just did the front and rear Diff oils and the Gearbox and Transfer case fluid changes on the GQ, the Diff Oil is ridiculously thick and bloody hard work. I bought one of these a couple of years ago and dont pull it out often but bloody Hell! Game Changer mate! It made very short work of it.

88010

I had a small one and it was Horrible to use, i think mine is a 2lt one. Awesome. When you need it you need it.

[PeeBee]

I just did the front and rear Diff oils and the Gearbox and Transfer case fluid changes on the GQ, the Diff Oil is ridiculously thick and bloody hard work. I bought one of these a couple of years ago and dont pull it out often but bloody Hell! Game Changer mate! It made very short work of it.

88010

I had a small one and it was Horrible to use, i think mine is a 2lt one. Awesome. When you need it you need it.

Thanks for reminding me Darren, I have one of those also, bugger, would have been done in 15 minutes. Those tom thumb units are a bitch.

[PeeBee]

Ghee mate! I reckon that bloke who made those for you was scared of the dark! There is a few extra noggins in there! I see Heavy...Is it Tube or Pipe? I smooth plated the underside so they slider over mud etc and the checker doesnt jag on any edges. Checka on top, smooth on the bottom.

The kits are optioned up like crazy, simply select which one you want, some are twice the complexity. Its all 4mm pipe and the only weakness V the strength is there are 3 mounts , so I have purchased another two chassis mounts to make the bugger immovable. Going to crank my new - well unused for 3 yrs Mig out of the garage and lace into it on the weekend. I was over at the shed today and there is plenty of checkerplate over there, will see if I go the plate both sides V MB sneaky angle deflectors

[PeeBee]

Finally connected the electrical feed to the bank of lithium's in the pod, turned on the 10Kw inverter and plugged in the 240V 15amp lunchbox welder, ran it at 100amps for about 3 mins continuous and its a winner - I mean it should be but I have had failures in the past trying to do this as well!! Runs a beautiful steady state bead, no issue, very pleased. The volt drop from main battery feed to the rear is 0.25V so will see what it will take to reduce this, however with the BCDC chargers I am sure they will compensate via their charge algorithms I suspect.

[PeeBee]

I dont know what or who is screening these posts , but this is a post made TODAY and its been deleted or relegated to a non existent post today - WTF is the point of contributing if the filter deletes the post - starting to lose interest to be honest. If the traffic content does not meet the narrative, let me know and I will fade into obscurity and not make the effort.

[Plasnart]

I dont know what or who is screening these posts , but this is a post made TODAY and its been deleted or relegated to a non existent post today - WTF is the point of contributing if the filter deletes the post - starting to lose interest to be honest. If the traffic content does not meet the narrative, let me know and I will fade into obscurity and not make the effort.

Oi Phil, there’s heaps of weird siht happening at the moment. Don’t be taking anything to heart right now mate. For the last 2 weeks the forum has been glitchy and I’m having issues with seeing past posts. Something’s going on mate, and your input is brilliant. Just take a breath and hope the boss can sort it. I’m bloody hopping it’s not hacking.

[mudnut]

Oi Phil, there’s heaps of weird siht happening at the moment. Don’t be taking anything to heart right now mate. For the last 2 weeks the forum has been glitchy and I’m having issues with seeing past posts. Something’s going on mate, and your input is brilliant. Just take a breath and hope the boss can sort it. I’m bloody hopping it’s not hacking.

Second that, Phil. "What's New" isn't always showing stuff as it should.

[BrazilianY60]

Keep posting mate, I am always keen to see the updates on your nice rig! It is a software thing from an automated software upgrade according to AB. He has reverted most of the things back to original software version, so stay here with us!

[PeeBee]

OK guys, I agree the platform has had some issues lately, all good, could not make sense of it after a full day in the Zoo with the primates.

[PeeBee]

Today I sorted out a coolant leak behind the S/C manifold, bloody utilux clips and such a range of clamps that do and don't tighten adequately. Ran the cables for the solar panels thru the pod wall, and mounted the Codan Voltage booster to give it a full 14V on transmit - makes a difference for sure.

Now, I am having some issues on the charging front.

The CTEK charger is hooked up to the Optima under the bonnet, currently boost charging at 14.7V into an AGM. I run the feed cable down the car to the pod where it goes into a Renogy 50amp DCDC charge controller. From here the power 'should' go to the bank of Lithiums - 400a/hr, but I am not seeing the float voltage rise at all. I have the cable running initially thru a 3 posn switch, so I can isolate everything in the pod, or switch to the Renogy or go straight into the Lithiums. I have a 300amp alternator, so thought I would run a big current when running the coffee m/c or induction tops or the welder. The Renogy does not appear to have a lithium selection mode, its maybe 5 yrs old. I do have a later one as a spare already mounted, maybe that does, but the only thing I can deduce is the charge voltage to the Lithiums is reduced to 14.5V and the AGM setting is at 14.7, so would think it still should be charging. I also have tried this charge check running to either of the Renogy or straight thru with no voltage rise - I am starting to think the 3 posn isolator is faulty - its an expensive Blueseas one, and should be fine. Any ideas? Unfortunately the only connection I cant get to easily is the terminal end of the charge cable going inside the 3 posn isolator - will check that tomorrow. I think its sounding like the isolator?

Only other thing I am thinking is I have the charge cable on one of the output cables - unsure what i would see in that scenario? Need to have another look tomorrow - would be a stupid mistake if that happened.

[PeeBee]

Wife flew to China today with one of my daughter to look at old pots or something, wasnt really listening, anyway cracked on with the sliders today between meetings and dealing with retards, made some good progress, will pain underside tomorrow then look at the chassis clamp mounts, bit of a hybris assy between sliders and side steps8807088069 And forgot to say I am a very delicious man.

[BrazilianY60]

wasn't really listening
:smileyvault-cute-bi



between meetings and dealing with retards
Hahahaha! And I have to "listen" to this 8am before starting my day with meetings on the schedule, LOL.

[PeeBee]

Back to home base after a month on site, big trip that was. Sorted out the final bit of wiring into the pod today. Looking at the roofrack at the moment and getting organised for a day under the beast welding out the chassis stiffener plates that I ignored when I had the body off - big mistake. Then its power to the radios and final internal clad of 3mm ply over the polystyrene insulation panels. Late June down to Dobinsons for new set of rear coils and I should be sorted. Then after the chassis is welded out, make the brackets and fit the sliders. Luckliy I have at least 6 weeks before a return to site at this stage, so going to make the most of it.

[Plasnart]

Any other projects you’re planning while you have some downtime? I'm so bored that maybe you will give me some ideas for upgrades to do to my car

I was thinking exactly the same thing, but I was too nervous to ask the great man.

[PeeBee]

Codan HF in and working, both UHF's in and working, Cel-Fi set up reinstate, wire up the car stereo to speakers and antenna, need to find the GPS for the Codan, its playing hide and seek at the moment.

Looking at the slider brackets maybe tomorrow, unsure. MB lending me his hydraulic lift table on wheels, should take the back break out of the job.

[PeeBee]

Another part day in the shed, bloody cold all day, hits 4pm and down the temps come. Ran the Celfi cable to the antennas, mounted two antenna pvc conduits on the roofrack, made a couple of mudflap chain retainers, have to return to site tomorrow as my PM resigned on Thursday and dropped me in it, away for a week, not happy, but has to be done. Trying to avoid a work trip to New Caledonia as well, not keen on heading into that turbulence.

[Plasnart]

Another part day in the shed, bloody cold all day, hits 4pm and down the temps come. Ran the Celfi cable to the antennas, mounted two antenna pvc conduits on the roofrack, made a couple of mudflap chain retainers, have to return to site tomorrow as my PM resigned on Thursday and dropped me in it, away for a week, not happy, but has to be done. Trying to avoid a work trip to New Caledonia as well, not keen on heading into that turbulence.

Holy smokes mate New Caledonia? Amazing that only a month or so ago it would have been a trip to look forward to.

[PeeBee]

Holy smokes mate New Caledonia? Amazing that only a month or so ago it would have been a trip to look forward to.

Waiting to see what the 'flavor' is as they have another election tomorrow. I understand 7 of the island agitators have been whisked off to France and are in jail. The mine is starting up, the equipment we are looking to buy has been running last week, however the mine owners want the gear gone by August now as they plan to catch up on exports. the company i work for wont send employees over there - against their internal policy, but they are happy to sacrifice a contractor if required - not that ideal however I have the right of refusal. Will see what the next week brings as have people flying in from all over the country to look at core samples to assist with mine planning out to 2054. Apparently they have the most firearms per capita than any country in the world, highly violent place in some regards

[PeeBee]

Few more things comleted today, wife away again for 2 weeks, free time!!!

Made a rear wheel slide tube to make it easier to get the rear spare aligned with the studs, bought a centre console extension unit fro PAP and installed it, what a difference it is with the console lid another 60mm higher, made a bracket for the HF radio linear amp, and final run the CelFi cable from inside the vehicle to bullbar.

Tomorrow I am going to have a crack at the overhead mig welding of the chassis stiffeners, have bought a welding blanket and leather headpiece complete with welding shiel, so with luck not too many burns.
8815088151

[BrazilianY60]

Do you have a picture of that extender with the lid open?

[PeeBee]

Here you go. The lid wont open fully at the moment as I have my second UHF radio in a box directly behind, but when the box is removed it opens like the factory original.

8815288153881548815588156

[Plasnart]

I’ve got a console extender in the shed too. Must get off my arse and get it installed!

[PeeBee]

OK, churned over all night as to which was the bigger pig of a job I wanted to get done, and decided on installing 25mm rubber spacers on top of the rear coils. I am really happy with the spring rate, just the load dropped the rear down so I needed 40psi in the airbags. Anyway, took me 5 hrs rooting around with a multitude of jaks and trolley jacks etc, going over ground long forgotten. Car is now back together, just need to run around and do the final bolt tension and run a new air line to the airbag. The car without airbags is now slightly nosedown so thats perfect for me.
Dosed the hydraulic tank with some seal stop leak to try an arrest the annoying leaks from threaded fittings. Ran it thru the system, will see if it binds up the thread sealant or not. Otherwise its going to Pirtek and they can fix it and give me the bill - over it and dont have the time in all honesty.

Chassis welding can wait. I was under the truck and saw the quality of the welding completed by the guy who did my rear tray, and some guys just have it, melted butter welds. Might end up back with him.

[PeeBee]

I’ve got a console extender in the shed too. Must get off my arse and get it installed!

Yeah its all of 8 screws! Come on Toiger, move a bit and get it done!!!!!

[Plasnart]

OK, churned over all night as to which was the bigger pig of a job I wanted to get done, and decided on installing 25mm rubber spacers on top of the rear coils. I am really happy with the spring rate, just the load dropped the rear down so I needed 40psi in the airbags. Anyway, took me 5 hrs rooting around with a multitude of jaks and trolley jacks etc, going over ground long forgotten. Car is now back together, just need to run around and do the final bolt tension and run a new air line to the airbag. The car without airbags is now slightly nosedown so thats perfect for me.

70’s retro cool mate! White writing outwards too!


Chassis welding can wait. I was under the truck and saw the quality of the welding completed by the guy who did my rear tray, and some guys just have it, melted butter welds. Might end up back with him.

Reminds me of what you once said about one of your dozer drivers in the mine mate. Artiste’ in Residence eh?

[PeeBee]

Another full day, gotta make the most when the wife is away! Bloody cold in the garage again, but a few more tidy up jobs with the wiring, rear wheel back on with additional anchor point, then launched into the chassis stiffener welding, completed the drivers side then decided to have a crack at the slider brackets instead of moving the car, love the mig, so much more friendly for overheads for a novice.
This went ok, another custom job, just takes time to optimise the kit and then execute. Happy with the 3 mounts configured but they look a bit too far apart so might add another two in between for good measure later. Anyway the running boards on the drivers side should be first up tomorrow, then swap it around in the garage and into the pass side welding and slider brackets.

Getting closer , should be 6T by the time I finish, new record for me!!!!!

[PeeBee]

Another 6 hours of bliss in the garage. Mounted the running board using a hydraulic lift table from @MB, worked a treat, wheeled the step into position , chocked in place and then micro fitted the arms to the chassis clamps. Touch up can of paint then a thick layer of bitumen paint on the bottom /underside for good, measure. Will get up early and place it, or shove it actually, onto the truck, looks great - forgot to get a pic of it trial location - tomorrow.881588815988160

[MudRunnerTD]

Here you go. The lid wont open fully at the moment as I have my second UHF radio in a box directly behind, but when the box is removed it opens like the factory original.

8815288153881548815588156

Hmmmmm! those were the exact photos i was going to ask you to post. These first appeared for the y62 and i have one and its bloody awesome. That second layer is nice for storage too. I didnt know they are making them for the GQ too. Awesome, will look into that for sure.

[PeeBee]

Patrol a Part, $230 ish from memory

[PeeBee]

OK, Drivers side is on and firm, still want to put a bendy mirror and light up there as the clamp bolts are adjacent to the brake lines, but happy with the outcome. Based on this outcome I think the second one is a day an a half with the passenger side chassis stiffener weld out and then the bracket fab and mounting.881738817488175

Next will be the rails to protect the front guards.

[PeeBee]

Issue developed or presented itself with a power circuit after welding on the car. I did the usual removal of earths etc, however upon reconnecting everything found the instrument cluster for the aux gauges were powerless. Started the hunt, start looking for the most complicated combination of events within the history of the world then work backwards - chant of the engineer - and well it turned out to be one of the auto trip /reset devices - 50 amp unit feeding the distribution block. The unit had decided to crap out in sync with the unrelated activity of the welding. Have probably used these a dozen times across different amperage ratings, first to die. Just another thing to review and potentially chuck a spare in for. Swapped it out for a different unit and good to go. I like these for the ability to be able to isolate a bank of stuff with a push of a button, however suspect there are quality limits on the sensing and cycling also.

[PeeBee]

Passenger side stiffener plates welded out today. Completed the passenger side step, under pressure with grand kids here, rushed it and not happy, will have to rework it tomorrow I think. Glow plug relay looks like it craps its pants today - always something, white unburnt smoke on start up for maybe 1 minute, ran like a dog, then cleared up and hums like a bird, normal sounding. Bloody cars. With luck its the fuse, not the relay as its a custom from Brunswick - have a spare but still.

[PeeBee]

OK, found the following in the main fuse box under the dash today when starting into the glowplug adventure from yesterday. Both 15a fuses melted with the fuse wire intact i think. They are on the Blower 1 and 2 circuits. Unsure what else is fed off that circuit, was hoping it was the glowplug circuit - need to have a look at the wiring diagram, but Brunswick installed the new GP timer, with the conversion, logic would say its on the same circuit as factory? Any ideas additional to heat? Fuses look like a generic fuse you pick up in boxes of 50 for example, I did destroy one with the pliars getting it out but the filament looks like it was intact.

Forum has locked me out of postings pics t this time, so will try later.

[PeeBee]

8818688187
OK, using Google Chrome, on work laptop, as against EDGE on home computer.

[PeeBee]

I have managed to store all my Patrol manuals in a safe location, Nissan, Haines, Gregory's, and cant make heads nor tail of the nissan wiring diagram on the forum. Can anyone advise which fuse feeds the glow plug relay? I assume Brunswick would have taken the feed off the same circuit, however with no wiring diagrams issued for the conversion, and the business dead and buried, I am at a loss. I replace the melted fuses as it looks like they may feed the relay, but have not been able to get to the small blue relay as yet to check it. Kicked the car up just now and its still running lake a coughing dog, unburnt diesel covering the neighborhood. Would ideally like to resolve this tomorrow at latest instead of having it hanging over my head whilst I am at site for the next 10 days from Wed.

[mudnut]

I have managed to store all my Patrol manuals in a safe location, Nissan, Haines, Gregory's, and cant make heads nor tail of the nissan wiring diagram on the forum. Can anyone advise which fuse feeds the glow plug relay? I assume Brunswick would have taken the feed off the same circuit, however with no wiring diagrams issued for the conversion, and the business dead and buried, I am at a loss. I replace the melted fuses as it looks like they may feed the relay, but have not been able to get to the small blue relay as yet to check it. Kicked the car up just now and its still running lake a coughing dog, unburnt diesel covering the neighborhood. Would ideally like to resolve this tomorrow at latest instead of having it hanging over my head whilst I am at site for the next 10 days from Wed.

Edit. Still in the dark after the phone call:(

[PeeBee]

EF & EC Page . Fourth fuse from the bottom left of the fuse block 10amp Yellow/Red wire. And 5th from the top left hand side Brown wire. These are the two fuses on that page.

Thanks Craig, I will have a look tomorrow, appreciate the effort. With luck I will move the truck and find the manuals as well.

[PeeBee]

OK try again, this time running Firefox browser. Nissan manual shows the fuse block running horizontal, yet we all know it runs vertical, so I still need a reference for the Glow Plug relay supply, so I can check the fuse, then the rely then the timer. Any help appreciated. the hot fuse appears to be at root cause, dirty terminal on the Blower Motor control 15a fuse slot.

[mudnut]

Weird how the manual is totally arse-about to any unit in Aus. Good luck, Phil.

[PeeBee]

One thing at a time. I will clean up the manky fuse terminal first, try to find why that developed exclusively into a local corrosion hotspot. Then recheck the fuses again. Swap out the relay, and then swap out the glowplug timer, once I find were I have hidden it under the dash! Bloody annoying this on-going nit picking issue

[PeeBee]

Returned from site Wed PM, worked all day thursday then yesterday did a bit more, grandkids over today, nothing happened. reworked the passenger side step, will bolt it on tomorrow. The hunt for the fault in the glow plug circuit continues, swapped over the BD glow plug timer, didn't make any difference, looking at the relay next then the power to the buss bar. Will find it no doubt. Waiting for the 4 extra wide beam worklights to arrive for the area spread lights. Just about done.

[PeeBee]

OK, passenger side step on, looks great. Swapped out the relay, wasn't the relay - looks like it is the trigger wire to the relay, BUT, it has voltage on first glow for maybe 2 secs then switches off. I jumpered the trigger straight to the battery and bingo, glows work beautifully, so now on the hunt for the origin of that wire!

Noticed the fuel pressure transmitter gauge was reading zero, instead of 12psi at idle. Thought it was a problem with the transmitter - NO, its the brand new carter Black lift Pump. Engine would not rev or develop more than 7psi boost also. I am hoping its just a fuse, by the time I got to that point i couldn't care.
Drowning in coolant and hydraulic winch hose connection leaks, never ends. Tomorrow provided the weather is ok, will have a look. Pics will follow once Telstra Bigpond pulls its head out of its arse and lets me log in.8823888239

[PeeBee]

Also after this feed fuse, its the trigger for the glow plugs. Cannot find my manuals - still. The wires are purple and green wih a red stripe. If you can tell me where its fed from - thought it would be the glow plug timer that brunswick add - maybe the swapped out unit isnt set up correctly - something else I have stuffed up maybe.88240

[BrazilianY60]

This is LS swapped right? So what about glow-plugs in such application?

[mudnut]

Also after this feed fuse, its the trigger for the glow plugs. Cannot find my manuals - still. The wires are purple and green wih a red stripe. If you can tell me where its fed from - thought it would be the glow plug timer that brunswick add - maybe the swapped out unit isnt set up correctly - something else I have stuffed up maybe.88240

I had a bit of a look, in the downloads, but I can only find TD42 circuits. yours was originally an RD28, wasn't it, Phil?

[PeeBee]

Craig,

thanks for the effort. I found my pile of manuals today. Brunswick never issued wiring diagrams for the changes they made, and I am going to do a post to try and find the Auto Elec who did their work. I dont care if I have to pay for a circuit diagram as I lose so much time rabbiting thru issues that its money in the bank. I have the RD28T manual supplement, so will have a look in due course.

Today I decided to cut my losses until I get some clear air and simply ran a new circuit for the glow plug activation, wasnt difficult, switch on the dash, so consider the issue dead for now. If I get to the bottom of it indue course I will post.

I also chased a shadow for 2 hrs this morning regard the power to the lift pump - I really must have made a mince of this, ended up running a new circuit for that as well, left the old wiring in place for another day.
It was a productive day though, resolved a coolant leak, think I found the issue with the hydraulic leak - the pump is driven off the PTO and it originally didn't have a boot in the cabin to cover up the selectors, but I found a boot during the conversion and unfortunately in the effort to make the cabin look neater, I found the PTO difficult to seat in the detent assy, and have been running the pump whilst drive is engaged. i wasnt aware this was even possible, but the PTO can be engaged without the transfer case being in neutral. Anyway, I have had oil zipping around for weeks when moving the car around and I think this has over pressurised the circuit. I have the PR set at 2200psi, and I hit that recently, total mystery at the time, but suspect its linked. Once again, need some free brain time to look deeper, but right now, coolant leak sorted - 2 loose hose clamps, oil leaks stopped, lift pump doing its job, managed to bump the inlet air temp sensor sorting out the coolant leak, so that another lemon to resolve.

Once again, many thanks for the follow thru, would be screwed without you in the background with the literature search and ability to fill in the missing piece of the puzzle, a s imple comment or question is all it takes craig. Hey just about at the bottom of that bottle of Scotch you so genourously gifted, not a single headache and a quality drop, so unfortunately that one wont get shared when we next meet up, but I have afew in reserve!

[PeeBee]

This is LS swapped right? So what about glow-plugs in such application?

Brazzy, is a brunswick Diesel 6.5 L DIESEL Chev Conversion. It was a put on car transporter task, sent it 5000klm away then got the result back. I ordered a naturally aspirated motor, and after 3000klm decide to Supercharge it, this nightmare began in 2016 when I got a monster tax return and decided my wife wasn't getting any of it! Anyway, diesel V8, been a total nightmare from start to finish, should have waited and gone Duramax by nothing avail at the time for a GQ. I have been at this for 6 years and it wasn't worth the effort and cash, and there has been a truck load spent. There is a total build, excluding the conversion from wagon to dual cab chop on the forum. Brunswick diesels is no more, and I would not recommend this journey to anyone. I would have been better off doing a KIA transplant.

[mudski]

Phil you've done a stellar job on this GQ.

But following your journey on this over the last few years, i do feel your pain and frustration. But its paying off i think.

[PeeBee]

Well another day of slow progress. Mounted the 4 lightforce extra wide beam camp lights, just waiting for the control panel to arrive. I am just about sitting on the extended bump stops at the rear, need to trim with some air into the airbags.

Am heading out with my brother and another mate to travel and experience the solitude of the Madigan line. 4 weeks off line, probably home via the Flinders/Gammon ranges, who know, might just tay out there until the sat phone rings!!! Car is essentially sorted, really cant thik what else I need to look at to be honest, fitted out with the best of everything, plus over engineered in a range of areas. Month of Oct , on the cusp of the wet but as you all know the seasons run their own calendar. I am hoping for firm sand and no issues. I have built a 3.6M hard tow bar, rated at 5T with FOS of 3, so hope it isnt needed. Got all the comms sorted, its going to be a time out get lost in the moment trip, planning on 10 day Madigan, so short duration trips each day, couple of lay days, doing nuthin'.

[Plasnart]

Good on you Phil. After the work you’ve put into this beast you deserve it!

[mudski]

Nice one Phil. Take a spare air bag or two on the trip mate.

[PeeBee]

Nice one Phil. Take a spare air bag or two on the trip mate.

I have the Kevlar baged airbag man units, running at around the 40psi mark to trim to level. The bags deflated have about 10mm between the extended bump stops. I think I
will be fine. Mounted and hooked up the Lightforce camping lights, just waiting for the 6 gang switch panel, then I am essentially done. Keen to break the rear down and start the trial packing.

[BrazilianY60]

I hate those OCD Auto Elecs that make it look like Art.

Going through the build top to bottom and couldn't help laughing my ass off this comment LOL.

And jesus mate! I thought big ol'diesels took two maybe three wires to run!

[PeeBee]

Going through the build top to bottom and couldn't help laughing my ass off this comment LOL.

And jesus mate! I thought big ol'diesels took two maybe three wires to run!

True, but its the 21st century in Australia, maybe Brazil isn't quite there yet, and we like to have a little bit more comfort than a milkcrate balanced between a couple of wooden planks and a big rock tied to a rope for a brake! My wiring concepts have let more smoke out than an Amazon wildfire at times, but now with lower frequency. The simplicity is a challenge from a security perspective as you are correct, power to the injection solenoid and the starter circuit and the motor runs.

[BrazilianY60]

Tell me about smoke... its crazy these days...
So all the wiring is for other stuff than the motor? Ok then. Sky is the limit in that situation. I was under the impression those were all stuff you needed to put together to make it run.

Cracking at the rock tied to a rope! That is LC territory mate!

Cheers and keep us all updated.

[Rossco]

Shes looking good Philstar, do like those steps, very vice. . . Madigan should be awesome certainly deserve to enjoy the thing it's been a slog but will be worth it. . Looking forward to hearing how it all goes plenty of pics please [emoji106][emoji106]. . .

Sent from my SM-S711B using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Broke away from the lunatic brigade this arvo and finished the wiring of the camp lights. Installed Lightforce ultra wide LED units at the rear and a pair pointing forward above the windscreen. I used a pair of ultra flood bars circa 300mm pointing sideways , mounted under the alum roofrack. Waiting for it to get dark so I can see the outcome. Installation came up well with the switch bank, mounted per the Vic regs in a location not accessible from the drivers seat - so its all inside the pod.8826688265

[PeeBee]

Little bit more done today, pulled the rear seats out and replaced with the two tilt seat platforms. Started playing around with storage configurations, and the opportunities are huge! I am not keen on diesel cans inside the vehicle however it does shift the load distribution between the wheels as opposed to having close to 200L behind the wheels in the pod. I will be carrying 250L which is based on a conservative 30L/100KLM. I think its going to be more like 20-22 than this, and this is just a safeguard position. 150 in the underfloor tank and 5 jerries. Getting real now, down to the last coule of tasks then onto the road to get some run kilometers under my belt.882778827688278882798828088281

[Cremulator]

This setup is apocalyptic. I love it. Have a good trip with the rig shakedown PeeBee [emoji106]
With all this effort, you've well and truly earned it!!

[PeeBee]

Another full day, dont know where the hours actually go in all honesty. Bolted the hard tow bars and Max trax to the roofrack, simple task just took hours. Wired up 4 cig lighter/usb points inside the car and rear pod, re-ran a heavier cable to the lift pump, achieved another 2psi at idle, which will mean the preload pressure band will sit at 10psi WOT - runs well at that position.

Heading tomorrow for short blast to see if anything catches fire, rattles or falls off!

Looks like the wet interior remains a hassle for Simpson/Madigan line, Adria Station section appears damaged and we may not get access, possibly divert south down Hay River track to Poeppel's and then Birdsville or head north and reach Boulia, then down to Birdsville, across to immaminka and the Flinders/Gammon on way home, not a race, 4 weeks planned - the mine is not that happy but first break in 4 yrs, they should rethink their reaction.88282

[PeeBee]

Got the barge out of the garage finally today, few stats. Dis a 200klm run, highway mostly, few dirt roads.
Carter Black Lift pump 10psi all day measured pre the injection pump
Fuel consumption 17L/100 @100kphr, 19L/100 @110kph
Rpm at 100kphr 1650, @110, 1800
Oil pressure cruising 20psi
Air in temp 21degC, air out post i/c 75degC
Diesel fuel temp 25degC
EGT's cruising 280, never over 400DegC
Lost a pass side window wind deflector, bumped the thing yesterday and broke the seal, so wind tore it off as punishment.
No rattles or smoke anywhere, drove really well. Need some more miles and a weekend away to sort the packing, getting there.

[mudski]

I hope those jerrys have a good seal on them. Having a diesel smell in the cab will be sickening. Even spilling a small amount on the outside of the can will be enough to make one ill from the smell it will give off. I'd be taking some baby wipes or something to give them a good wipe down.

Its good to see all is going well so far too.

[PeeBee]

I hope those jerrys have a good seal on them. Having a diesel smell in the cab will be sickening. Even spilling a small amount on the outside of the can will be enough to make one ill from the smell it will give off. I'd be taking some baby wipes or something to give them a good wipe down.

Its good to see all is going well so far too.

Thanks Mark, yes its a problem potentially, they may end up in the pod, where they will fit, just trying to get the weight over the top or in front of the rear wheels. I could put them on the roof, but again another couple of issues generated. Finally I can see the results, yesterdays run whilst only 200klm was enough time to settle anything down and find what is going to catch fire. The rear springs are perhaps my lingering issue, need to roll the car over my caravan scales and see what is sitting over the rear axle first. I have a stiffener channel already fabricated for the rear diff housing that will actually work, so might have to weld that in place as a security measure.

[PeeBee]

Is there anywhere that sells replacement jerry can seals that you know of? I may just head to Clarke rubber and make a few instead if I cant buy direct - good pick up

Never mind, bought 3 packs of 5 seals from 3 different vendors to ensure they get here on time, $3 each, happy days

[mudnut]

Is there anywhere that sells replacement jerry can seals that you know of? I may just head to Clarke rubber and make a few instead if I cant buy direct - good pick up

Never mind, bought 3 packs of 5 seals from 3 different vendors to ensure they get here on time, $3 each, happy days

If they don't arrive in time, maybe those sheets of cork for gaskets, from supacheap might suffice.

[Brissieboy]

If they don't arrive in time, maybe those sheets of cork for gaskets, from supacheap might suffice.

They also sell the seals - but $14 for a 3 pack is a bit stiff, but cheap enough if you need them in a hurry.

[PeeBee]

They also sell the seals - but $14 for a 3 pack is a bit stiff, but cheap enough if you need them in a hurry.

I bought 3 packs of 5 from 3 vendors, first set arrived today, have a few spares now, fitted them this arvo, good quality fit and nice and fat for a good seal.

[mudski]

I bought 3 packs of 5 from 3 vendors, first set arrived today, have a few spares now, fitted them this arvo, good quality fit and nice and fat for a good seal.

Maybe fill the cans and do a test run Phil before venturing off? Just to be sure.

[PeeBee]

OK, went out today to put some more miles on the build before the Madigan trip, and encountered what appears to be a repeated issue with the rear wheels on the GQ and GU, especially with alloy wheels.

I entered a round about at 50khr and the drivers side rear just decided to leave the chat, no warning, just fell off. I managed to pull the car mostly off the road but not before destroying a brand new disk from the Willwood Brake upgrade. Rang MB for some assistance and he dropped everything and came across, but in the end the solution was to replace the studs and get it back on the road to see if it needed a flatbed trip or could drive home. Luckily it all came apart and went back together and drives fine, even with the flat edge on the disk. I rang Castlemaine Rod Shop ad was able to buy just a single disk which I will have monday. Could have been a lot worse, mangled the new tray guard but didnt affect the capliper which would be a pricey item.

So, were the nuts tight or too tight and over stressed the studs, was the damage to the studs done when the new studs were added to the new disks, who knows. What I can say with some certainty is the nuts dont look like they were loose as I have seen this before and typically the rim holes get elongated and mangled - the rim stud holes are perfectly untouched. Also all studs exploded at the same time, and I picked them up from the roundabout all within a 3 m circle. I did however do a complete check of the pass side nuts and 3 were not tight, but they were still firm.

Right now the jury is out. I did have the rear wheels off recently when playing with the springs and airbgs, so maybe they were nt tightened correctly or they were buggered from over tensioning and just waiting to fail. One thing is for sure, no more rattle guns, just torque wrench and I think perhaps locktite on the thread as well, although the failure point on all 6 studs is identical, right at the start of the threaded portion of the stud, identical.8830688305883078830888309


SO CHECK YA NUTS.

[mudnut]

This is the way I was taught when I got my first car:
After the wheels have been off, always mount the rim on the studs and start the nuts manually.
If using a rattle gun, only use it to do the nuts up loosely. Wriggle the wheel as you seat the nuts by hand.
Use a torque wrench set to 90 ftlbs (for the Patrol, or to vehicle spec.)
Tighten the nuts in a star pattern.
Drive vehicle a couple of ks then check the nuts again.

I also do that last step after a mechanic or tyre shop has taken the wheels off.

It is tedious, I know, but I haven't lost a single wheel, in 40 years on the road. Touch wood.

I have had a cheap Chinese rim come loose ass the steel was very soft. The dealer I bought the car from had fitted the piece of crap as a spare.

[Plasnart]

Jeez Phil, super glad you got out of that relatively lightly.

What seat-type nuts are you using on the alloys? Use the tapered nuts on steel rims, and flat seat nuts on the alloys.

100 ft/lb torque.

88312

[PeeBee]

Jeez Phil, super glad you got out of that relatively lightly.

What seat-type nuts are you using on the alloys? Use the tapered nuts on steel rims, and flat seat nuts on the alloys.

100 ft/lb torque.

88312

Pretty sure the taper units. The factory rims are set up or have a taper I think, will have a look tomorrow. Either way I need a guaranteed solution. I will make contact with Nissan and PAP on monday to get some answers.

Thing is the studs snapped, the nuts were not loose, I went back to the roundabout and picked them up, all studs broke at the same point and with no damage to the rim.

[Plasnart]

Thinking out loud here. Are those studs genuine Nissan or aftermarket? If they’re aftermarket they may not be up to the shear force applied by your loaded pod? Dunno if there are different load ratings for studs? The fact they all failed at once says to me that as soon as the first one went, the rest couldn’t bear the additional shear force applied to them?

Were the studs high tensile or mild steel? I have absolutely no idea if they’re available in both forms, but my understanding (and I may be wrong please correct me if you know) is that high tensile fasteners are only stronger in tension, not shear. Mild steel better in shear. More plastic, less brittle.

[PeeBee]

Thinking out loud here. Are those studs genuine Nissan or aftermarket? If they’re aftermarket they may not be up to the shear force applied by your loaded pod? Dunno if there are different load ratings for studs? The fact they all failed at once says to me that as soon as the first one went, the rest couldn’t bear the additional shear force applied to them?

Were the studs high tensile or mild steel? I have absolutely no idea if they’re available in both forms, but my understanding (and I may be wrong please correct me if you know) is that high tensile fasteners are only stronger in tension, not shear. Mild steel better in shear. More plastic, less brittle.

The studs are all nissan genuine. You are right the higher tensile bolts dont offer anything in shear that helps. I am thinking the bolts may have been installed with a rattle gun and stretched past their elastic limit when they were installed into the rear axle hub. The reason being the studs were replaced all the way around when the new discs went on. I am sure of this because the front studs are from a GU Patrol to suit the Willwoods, so i had the rears replaced as well with the standard rears Nissan studs. All this is guessing. Tomorrow i am going to put the rear axle over the scales and see what load its running at.
I am going to be asking PAP the same questions around the availability of more ductile higher shear studs tomorrow, plus about the nuts for the factury GU4 alloys. If I cany get a satisfactory answer I might change the all terrain tires over to steel rims for the Madigan.

[Plasnart]

Mate, personally I would change over to steelies, but that’s just my preference. Pros and cons for each. Steelies = higher unsprung weight but more malleable and forgiving when out the back of nowhere. At low outback speeds the higher unsprung weight is worth it IMO only.

Edit: At low outback speeds there’s not much chance of an alloy splitting up either. I might just have an old mindset there.

Probably wouldn’t run alloys in the Baja 1000 though. There, I feel better now. :D

[PeeBee]

Mate, personally I would change over to steelies, but that’s just my preference. Pros and cons for each. Steelies = higher unsprung weight but more malleable and forgiving when out the back of nowhere. At low outback speeds the higher unsprung weight is worth it IMO only.

Edit: At low outback speeds there’s not much chance of an alloy splitting up either. I might just have an old mindset there.

Probably wouldn’t run alloys in the Baja 1000 though. There, I feel better now. :D

The Nissan Factory alloys are very sturdy, unlike the massive range of look good street crawler alloy rims or rims developed well before computer FEA was avail. I dont have any concerns about the structural integrity of the factory alloys, however the weight is a valid comment. Do you have a brand or style you know of that are well made? @MB, whats your spin on this - I know you dont like alloys, but what is the brand of steely's you use?

[Plasnart]

Genuine Nissan GU steelies. You’ll find them cheap 2nd hand online.

88313

[mudski]

The Nissan Factory alloys are very sturdy, unlike the massive range of look good street crawler alloy rims or rims developed well before computer FEA was avail. I dont have any concerns about the structural integrity of the factory alloys, however the weight is a valid comment. Do you have a brand or style you know of that are well made? @MB, whats your spin on this - I know you dont like alloys, but what is the brand of steely's you use?

ROH Trak 2 Steelies are the best in my opinion Phil. I've seen pics of the cheaper Chyna made steelies literally falling apart.

[PeeBee]

Spoke with PAP this morning about stud strength options and applicable nuts.

The factory studs are the go, however their aftermarket studs are 'marketed' as being stronger and cheaper than the factory units, however there are no actual numbers to back up the claims, so I went factory. I am going to push the studs I installed out and reinstall with a more manual process to reduce the incidence of tensile over reach on both rear wheels.
I also confirmed the tapered nuts are the right ones for the GU4 alloys, so have purchased another complete set of new factory nuts with the open ends so the stud projection can be passively monitored as opposed to fitting the ones with the closed ends. The open ends are the ones used on utes with steel wheels also.
Surprised also the replacement rotor from Castlemaine Rod Shop arrived at 9am, only ordered it at 4pm yesterday - brilliant service.

[PeeBee]

Genuine Nissan GU steelies. You’ll find them cheap 2nd hand online.

88313

Must be 17" rims to clear the Willwood Brakes, otherwise I would have gone this way instead of the alloys to begin with. I am struggling to find the value to torque the studs to - 6 manuals, internet search, simply no values. Going to have to go back to first principles I think working backwards from max allowable tensile stress I think - boy this is going to be a deep dive into my engineering design past!!!

[PeeBee]

Picked up new studs today and a full set of wheel nuts. According to PAP the drv side rear wheel is a known culprit - would really like to understand this. I know since putting in the new motor the torque reaction is into that corner under hard acceleration, which by default means its vectored into that corner at all power applications.
Unsure whether this translates to greater load or single wheel reaction, puzzling. Anyway all rear studs getting replaced tomorrow, new disk installed, back to original, so am happy with the reliability over the last 350klm despite the wheel loss - glad it happened in Yarra Glen and not out the back of nowhere from a convenience perspective.

[Plasnart]

………I also confirmed the tapered nuts are the right ones for the GU4 alloys…….

Just be really really careful about this mate. That advice will be correct so long as there are tapered holes not flat-bottomed holes in the rims. You need to have the nut and rim nestle together for maximum friction grip.

[PeeBee]

Just be really really careful about this mate. That advice will be correct so long as there are tapered holes not flat-bottomed holes in the rims. You need to have the nut and rim nestle together for maximum friction grip.

Plassy I will have the wheels off tomorrow. The GU4 alloys have a tapered seat, the Y60 alloys have a flat end piece and require the flat nut. Funny enough when I was picking up 'my nuts' off the middle of the round about I spotted what I thought I spotted the 6th stud but it was actually a broken stud with a flat ended wheel nut , so obviously even the GQ alloy nuts and studs have a problem.

[Plasnart]

Plassy I will have the wheels off tomorrow. The GU4 alloys have a tapered seat, the Y60 alloys have a flat end piece and require the flat nut. Funny enough when I was picking up 'my nuts' off the middle of the round about I spotted what I thought I spotted the 6th stud but it was actually a broken stud with a flat ended wheel nut , so obviously even the GQ alloy nuts and studs have a problem.

Roger that. The only reason I stressed the point is my GU2 alloys had flat seats. Must have changed somewhere in between! All good.

[PeeBee]

Roger that. The only reason I stressed the point is my GU2 alloys had flat seats. Must have changed somewhere in between! All good.

Honestly will have a look. I stood in front of the guy at PAP that I have seen for at least 5 yrs and he told me this story.

[Brissieboy]

Definitely 60 degree taper on the Y61 17" factory alloys, and the handbook for my 2015 GU Y61 wagon states 97 ft/lbs tension. I do a recheck after a few hundred ks, and also re-do the tension anytime the wheels are played with by anyone else. Rattle guns are only for removal in my opinion.

[PeeBee]

Would you have a seating torque for the studs by any chance? I am just going to rattle a start on the new ones then use a torque wrench to seat them. I cant fand a a seating force or a torque listed anywhere. I guess slow and gentle or whatever the torque is to seat them firm against the diff housing end plates without over tensioning by screwing up the rattle gun?

[PeeBee]

OK, I found a source that gives a seating torque from a rattle gun at 210nm for an M12 x 1.25P wheel stud. I have trawled thru my text books and found the method to calculate the torque, finally, however I need to know the stud tensile strength, which isn't stamped on the stud like you find for a HT bolt. The equations spread across 3 pages, so I am happy to go with this published number. I seated the replacement studs with a 12V torque gun on the side of the road, rated at 300nm - its a cheapie that came with the 12V 10T jack I bought so I doubt this is accurate by any imagination. Anyway tomorrow I will set the torque wrench at 210 and see how close to the mark they are.

I also bought a tool off ebay that is a cupped spacer with a bearing and specific stud seating nuts, so these can be used later if the others break. Either way the complete set of rear studs are coming out, with luck thats the end of it. New nuts, torqued as advised within 97 - 120nm , using the ARP HT Stud lubricant to ensure the seating torque is friction free as much as possible.

So 210nm for stud seating and 100 - 120nm for nuts as a reference point

Did a bit more digging, rang the mechanic and he uses a Snap on 18V impact gun thats not adjustable, relatively new, and rated at 540nm, so maybe here is the final piece of the puzzle, not throwing stones at him, but its a likely cause I think especially since the studs failed a 400klm after installation

[Brissieboy]

Maybe also try freezing the studs before installing them - should shrink them a tad and make it a bit easier. Not sure if this might reduce the strength of the stud, but they should be good to 0 degrees at least.

[PeeBee]

OK, decided to swap all the studs out on the basis they were all installed by the same method that resulted in the first wheel failure. Started at 8am, finished at 4pm, nice and easy, just repetitive. All the wheel studs in use are the longer Rear Wheel studs due to the Willwood kit upgrade. No real issues except could simply not seat the studs at 210nm, no way, so backed it off after noticing the wheel nuts I was using to pull the studs into position were all suffering from thread deformation and making it difficult to remove, Settled on 130nm which is more than ample - I mean they are seated well and truly so no point stressing the stud. Used ARP thread seating lubricant on the spline and the nuts, so the torque is a real value with friction removed to a great degree. Had to modify and install a new brake disk as the other one was too mangled to rework into a working form. Lucky I had a couple of spares.8831588316883178831888319883208832188322

[PeeBee]

Maybe also try freezing the studs before installing them - should shrink them a tad and make it a bit easier. Not sure if this might reduce the strength of the stud, but they should be good to 0 degrees at least.

The studs go in very easily when they are lubricated. The lubricant does not negatively affect the interference fit, but you really don't need to do a freeze shrink fit. I initially seated the studs using a 4" handled ratchet wrench until they were seated, then finished them off with the torque wrench for certainty

[PeeBee]

Wiring issues again. FI Interchiller has been under performing, not chilling adequately, so went chasing the switch valve, found it down on volts so am going to upgrade the line size, however plugged the flowmeter back in and found the flowrate down at 14lpm instead of 40, so another beesting to chase, just upgraded that wiring to get the 40. Wonderful time experiencing all this - NOT.

[mudski]

Its great when issue appear just before a trip! Not. While my trip is not a epic as yours i'm having a few issues also. But now, all my work has to be done outside and in the dark and i can't get the Patrol into the garage with the roof rack on.

[MB]

The Legendary ET EvilTwin here kindly once recommended for us all…. ‘Dynamic Steelies’ harnessed via Nissan OEM studs for longevity and repair…ability [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
Truly miss that young fellas advice, he’s personally kept me rolling for well over a decade of nuffy line shenanigans [emoji23]

https://youtube.com/shorts/gk8bKeN2ADA?si=MkX55JgVHLzYEI0E

FWIW: Not that this was your issue Philstar, whenever we change tyres/rims over and or left open to the atmospheric corrosion a good hard wire brushing (cleaning) of rims <> drivetrain should be conducted [emoji736][emoji736]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Its great when issue appear just before a trip! Not. While my trip is not a epic as yours i'm having a few issues also. But now, all my work has to be done outside and in the dark and i can't get the Patrol into the garage with the roof rack on.

Where are you off to Mark?

[PeeBee]

The Legendary ET EvilTwin here kindly once recommended for us all…. ‘Dynamic Steelies’ harnessed via Nissan OEM studs for longevity and repair…ability [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
Truly miss that young fellas advice, he’s personally kept me rolling for well over a decade of nuffy line shenanigans [emoji23]

https://youtube.com/shorts/gk8bKeN2ADA?si=MkX55JgVHLzYEI0E

FWIW: Not that this was your issue Philstar, whenever we change tyres/rims over and or left open to the atmospheric corrosion a good hard wire brushing (cleaning) of rims <> drivetrain should be conducted [emoji736][emoji736]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One thing I did notice was pitting on the Willwood aluminium brake hub and to a lesser degree on the Nissan GU4 rims. I buffed off the surface and brought it back to flat - unsure if there is some similar metal corrosion going on - another avenue of enquiry to chew up my life, but it does not look normal.

I think if I was doing the crazy arse trips like you do at times, then the steel rims are the way to go. My driving is more sedate these days, in fact almost disappeared within the last 5 yrs in all honesty, so the factory rims will do me fine for Muddy's and All terrains until I find otherwise.

[mudski]

Where are you off to Mark?

Leaving tomorrow to see my Daughter in Augathella QLD. She works on a cattle station up there. Then heading west past her old work place, AKA The Prison, in Noccundra, then into Innaminka, having a sniff around there for a couple of days then meander down to Cameron corner then start heading south toward home. Not a big trip like yours but i don't have a lot of time so we are fitting in what we can.

[PeeBee]

Leaving tomorrow to see my Daughter in Augathella QLD. She works on a cattle station up there. Then heading west past her old work place, AKA The Prison, in Noccundra, then into Innaminka, having a sniff around there for a couple of days then meander down to Cameron corner then start heading south toward home. Not a big trip like yours but i don't have a lot of time so we are fitting in what we can.

Its big enough. all miles, have a safe and trouble-free trip

[PeeBee]

The Golden Goose continues to lay rotten eggs. I noticed a change in pitch with the engine running and discovered the vac pump not turning, 8 rig belt skipping over the drive pulley, tensioner arm way out of position, so belt has decided to stretch and stop driving the vac pump. I have some HD belts to change out so its an easy fix. Was trialling these softer belts as the HD green belts are quite stiff and click for the first 10 mins of the day, very noisy. Added a piezo buzzer to the new glow plug activation circuit - I have forgotten to switch the glow plugs off and the battery voltage plummets to zero. I am running the Blue Optima Marine which is the same as the yellow but with additional terminals. Its a bit of a challenge to jump start but the battery does come good after 24hrs on the charger. The buzzer is another aid to remind me it is on. So I guess thats a win for the day, have to take the small ones when I can.

[MudRunnerTD]

I have had Optima Yellows go to Zero and have been able to pull them back up to charge. They are a very hardy battery.

[PeeBee]

I have had Optima Yellows go to Zero and have been able to pull them back up to charge. They are a very hardy battery.

Have done it twice now, dead zero, battery chargers wont even look at them. Car alternator/jumo start the only way forward when it gets to that level. Anyway the new buzzer should suffice until my brain finds a way to null it from the picture!

[PeeBee]

Swapped out the stretched belt, swapped the 110amp alternator back to the 300amp unit, drilling down into the interchiller issue, not looking that easy to fix, TX valve related it seems as all the controls and set up are working but something has changed in the last 2 weeks to cause it to fail.

Wheel stud puller kit arrived, yet to use it but it has a ball bearing pushed into a steel collar, and 3 wheel studs nuts of different sizes, all fine thread, 10,12 and 14mm studs covered.883258832688327

[PeeBee]

Another day in the garage, sorting out spares and loading stuff into the car. I built a short jack shaft for the hard tow bar, so I can run it as either an 1800mm long or 3600mm long unit, simple enough task, just time. Received permission finally to pass thru Adria Downs Station. There was a delay due to track conditions I believe. Had another look at the Birdsville Hotel towing insurance package - $500, but cheap compared to $15K if it goes wrong. They cover from around Madigan camp 15, only thing to clarify is it seems they only allow you to book in a single week block. I am going to ring them tomorrow to check. We are going to be slow and lazy when we get into the desert so maybe 10-12 days from Mt Dare to Birdsville. About to commence the joust with RACV regards Total care cover. Wife dropped this off the car, in fact cancelled my car off the policy because it was off the road for 2 yrs withe cab chop etc, well now its attracting a waiting period - will see if her 40yr membership can influence some common sense.
Got a weird electrical issue, when I turn OFF the engine the windscreen wipers do a single cycle - any ideas?

[PeeBee]

OK, another day in the garage, new BFG HD Terrains on, painted both surfaces of the aluminum hub and wheels to arrest the corrosion - Willwood hubs are a higher grade of aluminum than the nissan wheels, hence they lose material by galvanic transfer.
Dicked around with the A/C system again and found another cooked cheapie blade fuse - thinking the metal is not as accurately rated as its claimed, so they have to heat up a lot more before blowing - potential for wiring damage ultimately. I bit the bullet last night and bought a pile of NARVA fuses so will swap them all out and also a pile of the auto breaker style blade fuses for comparison. My fuse blocks have LED indication when a fuse blows also.

Booked the Birdsville recovery package just now, sorting thru the food and utensils boxes for the purge and repack into the new rear format. Getting real.883348833588336

Booked the truck back into the A/C guy, not cooling, reckon there is still a leak - $720 was the last bill and they replaced over 15 o'rings, must have missed one as the blower temp is ambient plus a bit. Going in Oct 4, heai\ding off Oct 7

[mudnut]

What amperage is the system actually using, Phil? Something like this might help you if it is over the 10 amps that most multimeters can measure. this isn't local though.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/365055642367?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=365055642367&targetid=2343267714371&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071335&poi=&campaignid=21614072826&mkgroupid=169779196200&rlsatarget=pla-2343267714371&abcId=10000405&merchantid=494516315&gad_source=4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgL-3BhDnARIsAL6KZ6_XXJE7l5vcOgyJYkyu_UKGjDC4IKQzYH8YX qyyLiGYAKv0glxIn2YaAqlDEALw_wcB

[PeeBee]

What amperage is the system actually using, Phil? Something like this might help you if it is over the 10 amps that most multimeters can measure. this isn't local though.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/365055642367?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=365055642367&targetid=2343267714371&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071335&poi=&campaignid=21614072826&mkgroupid=169779196200&rlsatarget=pla-2343267714371&abcId=10000405&merchantid=494516315&gad_source=4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgL-3BhDnARIsAL6KZ6_XXJE7l5vcOgyJYkyu_UKGjDC4IKQzYH8YX qyyLiGYAKv0glxIn2YaAqlDEALw_wcB

Thanks Craig, I will buy one of these for sure.

[PeeBee]

Thanks Craig, I will buy one of these for sure.

Well couldnt wait, want it now so placed the order, asked for priority shipping at additional cost if avail, would like to run this over all the circuits to ensure they are adequately protected, especially with volt drop and now the higher quality (I hope) Narva fuses on order.

[mudnut]

You gotta let me know how this unit goes. For years I've only had an analogue unit with a shunt you have to place in series. It works but is a PIA.

[BrazilianY60]

Getting real.88334

Nothing beats the looks of new tires, specially M/T, on a fourby!
And those look sick!

[PeeBee]

Nothing beats the looks of new tires, specially M/T, on a fourby!
And those look sick!

Its funny they do look like they could be a mud terrain, but they are marketed as a HD All terrain. Originally developed for the US market for the monster trucks towing big loads, 5th wheelers and then huge torque. When I look at them I can see remnants of the BFG Mud terrain for sure and they may make a good aggressive all terrain after all. My KUMHO M/T's are far more open than these. I bought them for the load rating at 1700kg/tire, so will be interesting how they handle - have not had them on the road yet, only went on yesterday.

[PeeBee]

You gotta let me know how this unit goes. For years I've only had an analogue unit with a shunt you have to place in series. It works but is a PIA.

Supplier accepted the order then wants to clip me harder on the delivery - never ends. They want another $160 for an expedited shipping or $40 without a guarantee for a British Express Postal service. I doubt I will have the unit by Oct 6 at this rate. I am waiting for a response from the seller about what the slow delivery period is looking like.

[Plasnart]

Supplier accepted the order then wants to clip me harder on the delivery - never ends. They want another $160 for an expedited shipping or $40 without a guarantee for a British Express Postal service. I doubt I will have the unit by Oct 6 at this rate. I am waiting for a response from the seller about what the slow delivery period is looking like.


This may be cheap and nasty but is in the country ready to go if you want to flip a coin.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/395301005433?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=a_aotngytqq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=vaN8LqSmRS6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[PeeBee]

This may be cheap and nasty but is in the country ready to go if you want to flip a coin.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/395301005433?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=a_aotngytqq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=vaN8LqSmRS6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks Criag, I bought the unit , the cheapie as a stop gap measure, might arrive in time, who knows, 20amp should cover most loads. I have resolved the postage with the UK mob, and paid the $35 additional postage via UK Mail, simply in hope it arrives in time, plus if its right on the departure date, I can take the new fuses and tester and use the 80amp tester in transit for surety.

[PeeBee]

Bought a Makita 700nm 1/2" drive impact, genuine article, man alive its heavy like a Milwaukee. Used it to swap out the tires from Kumho to BFG HD Terrains, nice tool. Assembled the tools kit for the trip and some consumables, starting to add up in weight, so have distributed across the other two vehicles in the trip. Need to have a look at the cruise control as its a long way without it and its probably just a simple adjustment - its a vac/electric system, originally fitted with the conversion but a belt failure mangled it up a long time ago.

Wheel brg to check, all grease nipple grease and diff/gearbox/transfer case levels to check, then ready for the a/c check and away from Oct 7 to Nov 4, cant wait, been a long time coming it seems.

[Plasnart]

Have a great trip Phil!

Makita all the way too haha! Jap made tho, not PRC. They make ‘em both places.

[MudRunnerTD]

What amperage is the system actually using, Phil? Something like this might help you if it is over the 10 amps that most multimeters can measure. this isn't local though.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/365055642367?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=365055642367&targetid=2343267714371&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071335&poi=&campaignid=21614072826&mkgroupid=169779196200&rlsatarget=pla-2343267714371&abcId=10000405&merchantid=494516315&gad_source=4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgL-3BhDnARIsAL6KZ6_XXJE7l5vcOgyJYkyu_UKGjDC4IKQzYH8YX qyyLiGYAKv0glxIn2YaAqlDEALw_wcB

Damn you Craig. you just cost me money.... Although there are some much cheaper ones for under $30 which i might opt for as they look to be similar.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/176540502259?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110 018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26as c%3D272500%2C273558%26meid%3D140eee7ce1d54c60b27f1 30ab3cef407%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26s d%3D365055642367%26itm%3D176540502259%26pmt%3D1%26 noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V 6%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A176540502259140eee7ce1d54c60b27f130 ab3cef407%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABALx1mZQ2L9jLv%252BUPTFTn a8XcGfl2wNJcn022gtZb5sDi91nsNPCOUaM4vS%252BXjm%252 Fgr8GI4LDOWz%252FFKBSn56V%252F9U21erXGup7MJEGekwsH a6Mi1EeIoietaHh3ZY7h4Wv9EikG3TODzjrB6ybPzaaHAvBaum 2oSv%252BCz8JEq81hsBPIgw4kzhMDPtRTU9d0EFKDQSjf%252 FaDu0%252B5yo%252FaQYZjUDA5eLcBxyXfNlpDcPyYkqI8tMs B22YHO0vupaUdHGfjtyLqd04nJ99mVNBgHmRyT6lse93hHgqCD CjSpTmEVOFMe6fkQff8raFR4d8lPlejFJ5YbPeB35x5%252FOE %252FB9Mg60Ao%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A233249 0&itmmeta=01J91EZSMAAWM4Z2S2356RT91K

[MudRunnerTD]

OK, another day in the garage, new BFG HD Terrains on.

Booked the Birdsville recovery package just now, sorting thru the food and utensils boxes for the purge and repack into the new rear format. Getting real.883348833588336

Booked the truck back into the A/C guy, not cooling, reckon there is still a leak - $720 was the last bill and they replaced over 15 o'rings, must have missed one as the blower temp is ambient plus a bit. Going in Oct 4, heai\ding off Oct 7


They are a far more aggressive tyre than the KM3. Way Chunkier. Th tread looks deeper too. Can you measure the depth of tread please Phil. Have a cracking trip mate.

[PeeBee]

Damn you Craig. you just cost me money.... Although there are some much cheaper ones for under $30 which i might opt for as they look to be similar.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/176540502259?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110 018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26as c%3D272500%2C273558%26meid%3D140eee7ce1d54c60b27f1 30ab3cef407%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26s d%3D365055642367%26itm%3D176540502259%26pmt%3D1%26 noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V 6%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A176540502259140eee7ce1d54c60b27f130 ab3cef407%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABALx1mZQ2L9jLv%252BUPTFTn a8XcGfl2wNJcn022gtZb5sDi91nsNPCOUaM4vS%252BXjm%252 Fgr8GI4LDOWz%252FFKBSn56V%252F9U21erXGup7MJEGekwsH a6Mi1EeIoietaHh3ZY7h4Wv9EikG3TODzjrB6ybPzaaHAvBaum 2oSv%252BCz8JEq81hsBPIgw4kzhMDPtRTU9d0EFKDQSjf%252 FaDu0%252B5yo%252FaQYZjUDA5eLcBxyXfNlpDcPyYkqI8tMs B22YHO0vupaUdHGfjtyLqd04nJ99mVNBgHmRyT6lse93hHgqCD CjSpTmEVOFMe6fkQff8raFR4d8lPlejFJ5YbPeB35x5%252FOE %252FB9Mg60Ao%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A233249 0&itmmeta=01J91EZSMAAWM4Z2S2356RT91K

He is great at digging up all the locations of the toys then putting them out there for us to buy!!!!! Greta job Craig, we NEED all this stuff. My 0-80 amp unit is in transit, as is the 0-20 cheapie, hope they get here by friday.

[PeeBee]

They are a far more aggressive tyre than the KM3. Way Chunkier. Th tread looks deeper too. Can you measure the depth of tread please Phil. Have a cracking trip mate.

Just measured 3 'yet to hit the road tires', BFG MT KM4 12.5mm, Kumho MT51 Mud terrain 15mm, BFG HD Terrain 'All Terrain 15mm,

[PeeBee]

Have a great trip Phil!

Makita all the way too haha! Jap made tho, not PRC. They make ‘em both places.

Its sneaking up really quick now. I told work I was off line as of COB Wed, have car into the a/c guy to find out why the $720 service I had done on the system, is now empty of gas after he supposedly replaced every o'ring in the system. Dividing up the tools and spares into 3 boxes this morning to distribute across the other vehicles - thats a saving of maybe 40kg from my car.

Bit of rain still about, Madigan Camps 16 onwards appear to be still closed, so may have to detour down the Hay River track instead, will see once we get to mt Dare and also if the road closed sign is still up - might try to call'someone' who can tell us definitely what the status is.

[PeeBee]

Bloody cars! I had a look at the a/c again today, had to be simple. I noticed the clutch on the a/c compressor was not engaged and the pump was making a knocking noise - so after chasing my tail I found no power to the clutch but when a second 12V source to the clutch wire it didnt engage and the pump had stopped making a noise.

So tomorrow off to the a/c guy and maybe its a new clutch or a new pump - dont care just want it fixed.

I am commencing the final vehicle pack tomorrow friday ready for the Monday escape. Looked at the car today, reckon it weighs 27T, so new world limit! - seriously its sitting pretty level and I have distributed some of the weight to the other vehicles - I am supplying all the tools etc, so they can carry the load. Not long to go, departing Melb 7am Monday, first night camp outside of Renmark SA on the Murray, then somewhere north of Maree on night 2 then Mt Dare night 3 with luck. If it slips a bit, dont care.

[Rossco]

Have an awesome trip mate can't wait to see all the pics & adventures [emoji106][emoji106]

Sent from my SM-S711B using Tapatalk

[PeeBee]

Have an awesome trip mate can't wait to see all the pics & adventures [emoji106][emoji106]

Sent from my SM-S711B using Tapatalk

Thanks Ross, a/c turned out to be the switch on the dash was reverse wired - like WTF???? So as I pushed it in to energise the compressor clutch, it switched it off, which is why I have been thinking there was a leak - the bastard wasn't on.

Anyway, did a squirt out to the Batty boys then a bit further, all running well, however the boost sender is cooked, blasted up to 28psi boost at one point - simply not possible. Anyway it can wait, starting the packing journey now, many variations I am sure!

Seems the Madigan is open from start to finish and unfortunately Surveyors Hill is off limits/

[PeeBee]

I am coming to the conclusion this car wants to live out its days in the garage. Today, whilst out getting fuel, the volts spiked to 15.3 then dropped to 12.8, dashboard lit up with warning lights fro handbrake to volts and water alarm in fuel - so go it home, checked the obvious stuff and first issue was the excitation fuse holder. could not open it, took about 5 minutes, and once again, another melted 20amp fuse. Put in a new Narva unit, fire it back up, blew straight away, Ummm, I run a Quciktifer which is a unit ex the USA to spread the load across 400amps of rectifiers. It keep the alternator cool whilst under heavy charge loading. Noticed one of the phase wires was broken, so it was outputting from alternator to Quicktifer on two phases.

Replace the cheapie electrical connectors with Narva m/f connectors, back on line.

Will see how far i get tomorrow as we head towards Renmark first day. 29DegC in Mildura, going to be great.

[PeeBee]

Righto, onto the next improvement. The interchiller setup simply does not work for a touring application. I have proven this on the recent 4000klm trip. I have video footage of the sales and marketing blurb showing cooled water temps of 5degC at 100kmhr and in 40 degC, but the best I can achieve is 73DegC , so there is a bit of a gap. I have had the a/c circuit checked and recharged with all new o'rings and gas, its delivering 5degC air temp to the cabin, so its doing what it should, just cant deliver what the seller claims.

Anyway, the solution is to install a second W2A unit in the incoming air source to drop the temp down using the Interchiller. This will improve air density and hence avail power. It also will help with the air temp entering the engine as the deltaT across the s/c as I can see up to 70 degC rise from the compression cycle. This puts the a/c chilling more in line with the ambient air temp chilling for the cabin, only the cooling should be more effective.
The second mod is to then set up a radiator setup like a standard W2A where the water is cooled by the radiator of a W2A setup. I am going to run a closed loop system without a storage volume. The cooling radiators are now mounted on the roofrack. I have 2 coils each with 2 12" fans, approc 4ft2 of area which is 8 times the area of the W2A coil inside the inlet manifold. I will operate the fans manually at this point, as when driving there will be heaps of airflow thru the coils on the rack.
Currently waiting for the 90 deg bends to arrive, have everything else. The two coils are mounted in a frame that is rubber feet isolated from the roofrack. The hoses will run from under the car up the gap between the rear wall and the alum canopy. I am sure this will finally resolve the performance I am chasing. Its not a dead set requirement as I can control temps when cruising at 100-110 simply by backing off a bit and keeping the boost under 11psi. Its a differnt story with low speed crawling or hill climbing off road when the speed at max is 15kmhr and revs high in low range. I can only control the radiator temps with the use of my radiator spray bar - which took a while to resolve - sprays pump duration etc, but now its entirely possible to hold 88 deg C radiator water temps by small spray sessions of
5 seconds, using maybe 100ml each time, however the dual prize is lower egt's.

Anyway, here is the installation on the roofrack, ready to connect the hoses and fill point, then down and under the truck to the Aeroflow pump and when the second W2A unit arrives I will do the mod to the air infeed circuit then hook up the Interchiller route.
88410

[PeeBee]

OK, try again, forum nazi kicked me off. I ran the hoses today from the roofrack to under the car, Including the fill point and the flowmeter to monitor the flowrate from the pump. The w2a unit for the incoming air arrived, big sucker, going to look at this on the weekend. Unable to add the pics - apparently unauthorised to perform this function???

[PeeBee]

Cannot edit the post either, @AB, what is happening?

[PeeBee]

Ok, bbig day today, dont know where the time went. Plumbed up the new roofrack mounted system and filled it up, bastard of a thing to burp though, still not there after 4 hrs. Flowrate fluctuates from zero to 11lpm, so there is still air trapped in the system. I find the pump wont actually pump unless the radiator fill cap is on, its a 16psi cap. If i try to burp the radiators and the w2a unit the flow drops to zero - dont understand this. The radiator burbing assy I have is a 2L funnel with the matching radiator caps - water does not release - going to try tomorrow in the morning with the car level. Then onto the wiring for the 4 roof fans and the pump. Last if time permits the fluids need dropping diff, gbox transfer engine - going to be a joy.

[MudRunnerTD]

Have you got any pics of the roof mounted unit?

Yes my Frozen Boost W2A was a MoFo to burp. I also had issues with the pump actually moving coolant when the cap was not on. I assume you have the filler up on the roof yeah

[PeeBee]

Have you got any pics of the roof mounted unit?

Yes my Frozen Boost W2A was a MoFo to burp. I also had issues with the pump actually moving coolant when the cap was not on. I assume you have the filler up on the roof yeah

Yes filler on the roof, have hooked up a garden hose into the circuit as well, this seems to fix the issue as water and air was purged out the overflow until it was bubble free, I mean micro bubble free, but to remove the hose introduces air back in. I am going to put a little tap in that connection and see how that goes today. This emerging storm front is going to play havoc with my plans though as need the car outside of the garage to do this - another first world problem!! Glad to hear you experienced what I am seeing.

[PeeBee]

OK, I am just about at my limit with the posting issues , cant attach images, unauthorised action, refresh the page, have to log back in, then post disappears.

So the setup is finished, was cable size to the pump that was the stalling issue. Runs at 11.4lpm.

Righto photos wont load, good night.

Here are the missing images.
884228842388421

[PeeBee]

OK, the additional W2A heat exchanger between the air filter and inlet to s/c is manufactured, fitted, then removed for painting, will fit tomorrow. Its tight, too tight, but now at least I have something that does fit, however it will almost be the trial unit as gong to see about a custom unit once this gets on the road and proven.. The units is a 5" dia x 10" long, reduced to 3" in/out. The follow up unit is going to have 4" to match the airbox and then neck down to 3.5" for the s/c inlet manifold.

Then its simply a task to plumb it up and both systems are complete.. Had to chop the length of the airbox by 50mm, but filter still remains the same size and is easy to install/remove.88420

[jack]

I really need to see this beast when it's finished Phil. You're a patient man.

[PeeBee]

I really need to see this beast when it's finished Phil. You're a patient man.

Its getting very close to completion. This should be the final chapter, apart from some rationalisation in the rear pod as I am still using the rear seat, which is not to plan for storage. I carry too much shit, but its a habit I am trying to break.

[Touses]

30 days to make a habit, a lifetime to break it.
I too am looking forward to the completion of this beast.
It's been epic. :thumbup:

[PeeBee]

Righto, I can finally claim a win! I connected the under bonnet W2A today, into the Interchiller circuit, and where I once would have a climbing water temp at idle of ambient plus 10 degC, and saw water temps in this circuit regularly at 70 degC + on the recent NT trip, I achieved an at rest water temp of ZERO after 5 minutes of idle, and 6 Deg C after 1hr of idle.

My next job is to insulate the hoses as they condense water quite readily and the steel fittings are now freezing up with frost. The intercooler barel is 90% insulated, as is the air filter box from the engine radiant heat.884248842588426884278842888429884308843188432 88433

[PeeBee]

Another 6 hrs on the truck today, insulated all the top side hoses and engine bay, and need to do the ones under the truck - used some standard 1" bore rubber sleeves from Clark rubber, a million cable ties, bugger of a job to do it thoroughly. Wired up the second intercooler pump to an ignition circuit so now everything comes on automatically except the fans on the roof HEX which will be on demand. Tomorrow I will flip the front driveshaft and the work out the process to drop the gearbox crossmember for the cutout installation - not arrived yet.

Wife home from Thailand Sunday arvo so all work ends Saturday, house tidy up Sunday AM, happy days.

[PeeBee]

Added this 1.5L header tank into the circuit on the roof, and picked up 1LPM flowrate with the extra head and better air purging I think. Flowrate on rooftop system is 12.5LPM by the flowmeter and 17lpm for the incoming air circuit unit under the bonnet. 88437 I have some metalised foil tape to finish the insulation edges off.

[PeeBee]

Fitted a replacement set of coils in the rear today, the originals wier Dobimsons C45-325 coils, rated 400kg and 3" lift19mm wire, constant rating ,fitting with the Airbagman 3" airbags and kevlar sleeves. I had problems with the airlines on the trip, leaks etc, and found when employed the vehicle wobbled whilst driving down the road - was a bloody handful to be honest, so upgraded to Dobinsons C45-315 coils which are 250-400 variable rating , 4" lift and 22mm wire and running without airbags. I installed the coils today and whilst it sits 20mm higher than original I still have only 15mm under the extended bumpstps - I don't know - its just a perception, but a quick ride around the block and confirms the overall result is fine.

What I did find however is the ARB BP51 rear shockers have been making contact with the factory bump plates on the rear axle housing, essentially carving the side off the adjustment knobs - bloody mess.

Anyway, I cut the bump stop plate off by approx 20mm and the clearance is how it should be. I have made contact with ARB Kilsyth and started the warranty evaluation process, and also after speaking with Rossco, seems its a requirement to cut back the bump stop mount, but not mentioned in the ARB docs - another beesting .

[PeeBee]

Ok, back from site, decided to install 30mm coil rubbers in place of the 5mm units on top of the coil to get the car sitting a smidge above level, front down. This is the fourth time dicking around with coils so the change over time is coming down. Anyway, pain free activity, added 25mm effective lift at the rear and the vehicle is sitting a smidge above level. I think with the wire diameter increase and this small correction I will get the stance I am looking for - essentially stock within the limits. Took it for a brief spin around the block to settle the coils and it rides quite nicely.

As an aside I have been helping out a young guy with a range of parts for the last 6 months or so, has a 1994 GQ LWB, fitted with a fully engineered Barra Turbo, he dropped around to pick up an interior cross body console and I also gifted him the 400kg coils and airbags, and in turn he took me for a squirt in the beats - HOLY MOTHER OF GOD, unbelievable acceleration without fuss, under bonnet is so tidy, puts my build in the shade, this thing flies, making 250KW at the rear wheels with a moderate tune, extraordinary. Holds 90- 100 on the radiator with thermos, has paid a lot of attention to details, really spectacular build in my view, admittedly a totally different approach to my build but his is power on tap, very impressive. Unsure it would match the grunt of mine under load, but he is getting a load of fun out of his and its a sleeper build, just the exhaust note give it away as not a 2.8TD, - still has the stickers on the rear quarter the bugger! Very impressive .

[PeeBee]

Feedback from ARB regards the shockers contacting the bump stop plate has been totally fair and supportive. Seems there is a note, admittedly in an obscure sequence of the instructions, to trim the bump stop plate if it looks like it will foul. So, on that basis, the error is mine, which I accept. Its been a really positive exchange with ARB Warranty at Kilsyth and the outcome is they will take the shockers back, rebuild them from their stock of spares - shockers are actually built in the USA, then return them to new. They will warrant the shockers as they stand for the full 3 yrs in recognition the instructions are not that intuitive. I am very impressed. At this time I have elected to drive it a bit further with the 'cosmetic damage' and then in the new year pull them off and get them rebuilt - its the bottom adjustment knob that has contacted the bump stop and become 'highly modified'. The mounting location of the remote reservoir is a bastard and another installation error I made with installing with the body 'off', then removal is difficult.
I was under the car today and shocker looking at the actual assy, think the issue is the shockers are too long for my suspension travel. I purchased the full F/R set during Covid and 4" lift was all they had left, so I made the decision to buy these - in hindsight 3" would have been better as the body is shorter - hence they probably would not have contacted the bump stops anyway.
I think I will have a pragmatic conversation with the warranty department, get the 4" rears rebuilt and buy a new set of 3" for the rear. I will then sell then 4" units. The ride is bloody good in all honesty, however the shorter body of the 3" will keep it away from the trimmed bump stops and the rear brake lines, so win win. ARB remain a trusted supplier in my mind.

[PeeBee]

Spoke with ARB today about the option of 3" BP51's - they dont make them. Only avail in 2" lift for road use and 4" lift for offroad use. I have the open and closed eye centres and will see if the 2" will work. The only issue with this setup is the rubbers on the shocker eyes are rooted after 4000klm. I have ordered 2 sets for the lower eyes in the rear but really they should last longer than that. Not a big cost, $13/set, its more the poor performance, so every 4000klm they need replacing - not great.

[PeeBee]

I installed the replacement springs with 30mm rubber spring hats and its lifted the car 25mm, sitting level. I filled up the rear tank and the height went down 5mm on both sides, so with the water tank full I am expecting a drop of maybe 8mm total, no airbags. It rides well, still a touch floaty but nothing like the setup with the airbags in play. Wire diameter increase from 19mm to 22mm, same spring height, but gone from 400kg constant to 250-400 variable.

Took the car out for a spin in the relative heat the other day to get some better numbers on the revised water cooling circuits.

Ambient air Temp 35Deg C, air temp post the supercharger , into the engine is around 55 degC, but it will rise a bit more I suspect.
Water temp cooling the barrel w2A sits around 6-8 degC. I dont have a temp gauge post the barrel W2A, will consider adding to see the effect the interchiller is having on the inlet airstream. The radiators mounted on the roofrack are doing a good job and dont put the heatload into the engine radiator.

[PeeBee]

More dicking around under the car today, finished the insulation on the coolant hoses, and restored/relocated the cruise control sensors to the hand brake drum instead of the tailshaft - now have to do the set up and good to go. The catchcan arrived today, procrastinating where it can be squeezed in - need to eliminate the oil getting onto the w2a coil inside the inlet manifold.

Noticed or convinced myself the in-line w2a is restricting flow to the s/c, as its a 5" barrel with 3" inlet/outlets, could not buy or convince anyone on line to make one with 4" connections, so bought another one today, along with some 4" ally tube. I am going to blanch the 4" tune onto the reducing cone so I will have 4" in and out and a nice smooth transition into the s/c inlet at 3.5", handled with a silicone reducing 45 deg elbow.

Looking for a welder now who can do the ally welding, pretty straight forward with the right gear and expertise.

[mudski]

What brand cruise control are you running Phil?

[PeeBee]

What brand cruise control are you running Phil?

I am running the Command AP 60B setup. Its one of the few that run off magnets and vacuum actuation. There is a different model, called an AP500 I think that communicates with an ecu thats in the petrol GQ's but the 2.8TD does not have that platform - apparently there is something in the 4.2TD that does.

I had the cruise control added during the conversion but managed to mangle the drive cable up when I lost a belt. From there it wasn't repairable, so I bought another unit and its installed, just at the commissioning stage now.

[PeeBee]

THe replacement barrel W2A unit arrived, so after getting a solid recommendation from @MB, headed down to a shop in Pakenham, and thye cut and blanched the 4" inlet and outlet to the 5" x 8" unit, essentially were waiting for me to arrive, unbelievable service, they shifted a job around to fit me in. Next Level Welding & Fabrication, MS/SS/Aluminum, highly recommended.884528845388454
Will swap it over in the new year, last of the shopping for a while I hope!

[PeeBee]

Fitted the new cooler today, took all of 30mins. Engine even sounded different, back to the old sucking/howling noise out of the snorkle that it had before and had disappeared with the chocked off unit. Tomorrow, maybe the lower bushes on the BP51's that only lasted 4000klm - ARB shrugged they shoulders, no comment - better not be a repeated event is all I can say. Thy are not expensive at $13 each, its just they are natural rubber and very deformable.

[MudRunnerTD]

We cant leave you unattended in your shed you mad bugger. lol

The lower bump stop plate on the back diff is savage. I also lost a pair of shocks finding that out too. But check your pinion angle mate and make sure you have a good angle. The plate arc has moved at you lifted it and the diff rolled back and caused the impact. I cut min off and welded a new block on top of the plate to catch the bump stops.

If you are running 80 Bumps then dont worry about only having 20mm between bump and plate, the bump stop will compress to almost nothing. 20mm to 30mm from the 150mm length it is. It will take a Lot of compression. The marketing suggests they compress to like 100mm but i have seen some in a press and they went a lot more than that. I jsut spent 20 minutes looking for a photo from back in the day of a bump stop compressed. but couldn't find it but found a couple of others for interest. Note that i cut the front off the bump plate. went bush and flexed up and then climbed under to take a look and was gobsmacked that the bumps completely missed the plates. I have not welded box section to to the top of my plates to give the bumps something to impact with.

88463

Your shock length open and compressed is far more important than if its a 2" shock or a 4" shock. You really want tot know that if the shock is fully compressed by the car that it doesnt bottom out and the existing bump stop does its bloody job. If the shock can Bottom Out on its internal Bump stop t si too long and you will blow it up. You mention that you have a new coil in the rear that is a 22mm wire. Measure the height of the shock Out of the car (the spring cant be any Longer than it is out of the car.) your full open length needs to be That long. any longer and you need spring retainers, if you have them that you have say another 50mm or more and the droop is the measurement of the open shock.

Count the number of coils in the shock, time by 22mm. The Spring in Full compressions cant be any shorter than that. Your spring is not designed to be fulling compressed though or you risk sheering the spring steal. but honestly get your head around the Fully Compressed length between the shock mounts and you want your closed shock length to be shorter than that. If the closed and open lengths are within the range of your articulation then your shocks are teh right length mate.

Id be surprised if you are running 4" lifted sprigs that a 2" shock will be suitable. Basically if you are running a 2" shock in this set up then the Shock is what will control your articulation. Measure the distance between your upper and lower shock mounts when the car is sitting level. You really want that length to be the middle of the Open and Closed length of the shock fitted. If at ride height you only have another 50mmto the full open length of the shock then thats horrible. Anything other than taking those actual measurements is guessing mate.

I didnt realise you were going to run your heat exchangers on the roof. How did you get the plumbing up there mate? is that in this thread somewhere and im being slack?

[PeeBee]

Thanks Daz,
I am staying with the 4" shocks, still to absolutely guarantee the shocker cant hit the brake line. I am yet to check the pinion angle, MB pointed this out also, need to have a look, but now have full fuel tank and wanting to add the full water tank to ensure its sitting where it needs to be - eyeballing it the angle to tailshaft looks pretty good - wont hurt to have another look.

regards the heat exchanger pages - go back a couple - its all there. Cooling is now spectacular, holding zero from the interchiller loo and only 10 deg rise on the roofrack, happy days, but more to check

[PeeBee]

Another day on the truck, adjusted the pinion angle, springs now sitting optically straighter and the clearance off the shockers is greatly improved. Yet to drive it check stability.

Bogged up three screwed joints that were leaking/weeping oil. Will see how successful that turns out in a couple of days when it should be 100% dry.

Also installed a new 150amp Ammeter, straight forward, just time to stuff around, and make it tidy.

grandkids here for the night, so tools away and let the fun begin. Happy New year to all NP Forum members.

[PeeBee]

Forum screwing up again @AB, post lost, cant attach photo, not authorised, bumps me off the page with a page refresh request, then post evaporates.

[PeeBee]

Righto, back into the garage by 9am, after painting the big doors - needed to trade my time a bit!

Anyway, the fuel cooler circuit is plumbed up and works a treat. I have it running off the interchiller circuit. The fuel was sitting at ambient temperature when I started, which was 30 degC. The interchiller circuit cooling only the barrel W2A was running at 7 deg C before I hooked up the fuel W2W unit. The chiller dropped the fuel temp from 30 to 14 in maybe 15 minutes, however the reason for the slow response is the fuel is being cooled out of the hot fuel tank and it took 15 mins to cycle all the fuel from the tank a couple of times. Once I left the car at idle for a further 15 mins the fuel temp was holding at 10 degc and the interchiller water temp was at 9 degC, so the impact is 2 deg C and i am achieving a net cooling effect from these mods. Yet to try it on the road, but its 39degC now and pool time!

The fuel chiller is totally adjustable. i have two ball valves in the circuit and simply balance the flow to either W2A/W2W heat exchanger. I can choke off and direct all the cooling only to the W2A for snow trips so the fuel will simply run thru the W2W unit. i have heaters in the fuel circuit as well than can handle the gelling if required. Here are the snaps from yesterday, will post up the finished layout layout, 88467.

Apologies, the image is crap. The numbers that cant be seen are fuel temp 36deg and ammeter 67A. the inlet air is showing 48degc in airbox and ambient temp off a different thermometer at 42. the 51 if the temperature of the air entering the engine. The success of this system is that essentially 100% of the compression rise temperature is easily handled by the roof mounted coils combined with the cooling effect of the interchiller barrel chiller. i have ordered an additional temp probe so can see exactly what the effect will be for the interchiller segment - need to measure temps before and after the barrel unit. The16 Deg Cis the interchiller circuit temp just after starting up, this drops to circa 9 deg C within minutes.

[PeeBee]

OK, another mod executed today. I found on the recent failed Madigan Line trip, that sitting for hours on end with the right elbow on the door ledge was an exercise in pain. I ended up with a neoprene stubby holder under the elbow and a tee shirt at times to take the pressure off the resting point. I bought a padded armrest originally designed for the Totota 70 series and the small print says it can be adapted for use on GU/GQ. Anyway, it arrives does need some minor tweaking and installed it today. I found the fit to the patrol window ledge profile needed a flap wheel adjustment, and the whole assy needed to be screwed into the door frame - but I am happy with the result.

Second dual air temp sensor/gauge setup arrived today, so will be able to monitor air temps pre and aft the Interchiller HEX and also post S/C - yes is it necessary, well for me it is to allow accurate operation of the beast. I also added a temp probe and display for the roof mounted coils so I can monitor their effectiveness at both speed, without the 4 fans running and at slow crawler speed when the fan are running. Luckily I was able to configure this unit from the literal warehouse of bits I have collected with this build - helps to keep the gargoyle pleasant!

OK another forum foible, cant attach the images @AB??????8847388474
Bugger me, this is a tedious process.

[PeeBee]

Couple more baby steps today, work keeps getting in the way! Sorted out the additional air temp probe and gauge for the incoming air - biggest 10 min hassle that remains is the running of the cables thru the firewall to the probe - not a biggie, just getting pretty busy - might nee another firewall penetration soon.
Added a 12v temp gauge inside the pod, more because it was left over and avail instead of chucking it in a garage purge. It will prove its worth with camping and temp management of the fridge for sure. During the Madigan Line trip I had issues with the temp control of the Engel 60L. I managed to freeze everything including the beer and this was a disaster! The ambient temp indicator will allow refinement of the fridge setting for sure.

[BrazilianY60]

I'm with you on the frozen beer, LOL.

[Brissieboy]

You definitely need more gauges, indicators, displays, controls, dashboard do-dads.

[Touses]

You definitely need more gauges, indicators, displays, controls, dashboard do-dads.

I agree Brissie, not nearly busy enough. He mentions another firewall penetration, that should help with the weight.

[PeeBee]

I agree Brissie, not nearly busy enough. He mentions another firewall penetration, that should help with the weight.

Guys, information is power, to monitor and make informed decisions. I know, 40 yrs ago we had a speedo, fuel tank and temp gauge, and it was sufficient. I am running some trial work to establish if the cooling concepts are working. Once i get the data and am comfortable, the gauges will blend into the background, but now they are key to the on-going project I guess.

When I first did this conversion, I monitored a lot more, ie gearbox and transfer oil temps, oil temps and water temps on and off the radiator, as simply had no idea if the system supplied was going to be problematic in te long run. As it stands I dont monitor these variables nnymore and the information checked out within ranges acceptable.

[Plasnart]

Guys, information is power, to monitor and make informed decisions. I know, 40 yrs ago we had a speedo, fuel tank and temp gauge, and it was sufficient. I am running some trial work to establish if the cooling concepts are working. Once i get the data and am comfortable, the gauges will blend into the background, but now they are key to the on-going project I guess.

When I first did this conversion, I monitored a lot more, ie gearbox and transfer oil temps, oil temps and water temps on and off the radiator, as simply had no idea if the system supplied was going to be problematic in te long run. As it stands I dont monitor these variables nnymore and the information checked out within ranges acceptable.

I love this thread Phil. You build to a level nobody else does which makes me cringe and smile all at the same time. Can’t wait to see it out in the bush doing its thing.

[PeeBee]

Plassy, the first trip in anger unfortunately resulted in the Supercharger failing, however the car and systems all performed at a really high level of reliability. The vehicle is now updated to adopt any weaknesses that i can correct, - cooling is the focus. The info that comes out of this craziness might assist someone else down the track or inspire them to take a leap of faith and look beyond the mediocre. In all honesty I cant see too many people chasing these issues as I do, but that is the challenge and dilemma of the engineer - we believe there is a better widget and spend a lot of time sometimes polishing and honing to get there - oh and cash! Glad to hear that someone out there is reading this stuff as well.

[Plasnart]

Haha yeah mate this is an engineer’s wet dream in overdrive. I’ll let you in on a secret. My father is an engineer, and is brilliant in mechanical design, electronics, fabrication, thinking outside the square, adaption, planning, fault finding, critical thinking etc etc. I’m always impressed by his capabilities but the constant analysis, thinking, changing and improving drives me nuts. I’m a simple guy. I subscribe to the K.I.S.S. principal. Always have. Never had anything outlandish, never built a beast like yours. I did have a factory TD42T wagon which I refused to significantly modify, and certainly nothing under the bonnet apart from a second battery, and which took me up and over, down and through, across and around and back home again without ever missing a beat. Sold it because I stopped using it. But as I said, I love reading your story for the ups, downs, innovations, alterations, successes, losses, wins and hardships it has been giving you. You are our resident soap opera Phil and keep on keeping on mate!

[Brissieboy]

Guys, information is power, to monitor and make informed decisions. I know, 40 yrs ago we had a speedo, fuel tank and temp gauge, and it was sufficient. I am running some trial work to establish if the cooling concepts are working. Once i get the data and am comfortable, the gauges will blend into the background, but now they are key to the on-going project I guess.

When I first did this conversion, I monitored a lot more, ie gearbox and transfer oil temps, oil temps and water temps on and off the radiator, as simply had no idea if the system supplied was going to be problematic in te long run. As it stands I dont monitor these variables nnymore and the information checked out within ranges acceptable.

Just in case you did not realise, my original comment was very much 'tongue-in-cheek'. Totally agree that information is key to making good decisions.

[PeeBee]

Just in case you did not realise, my original comment was very much 'tongue-in-cheek'. Totally agree that information is key to making good decisions.

All good, I can read the play. I appreciate the feedback as at least the reporting isn't going to waste. Keep up the feedback, its valuable to me also.

[PeeBee]

Haha yeah mate this is an engineer’s wet dream in overdrive. I’ll let you in on a secret. My father is an engineer, and is brilliant in mechanical design, electronics, fabrication, thinking outside the square, adaption, planning, fault finding, critical thinking etc etc. I’m always impressed by his capabilities but the constant analysis, thinking, changing and improving drives me nuts. I’m a simple guy. I subscribe to the K.I.S.S. principal. Always have. Never had anything outlandish, never built a beast like yours. I did have a factory TD42T wagon which I refused to significantly modify, and certainly nothing under the bonnet apart from a second battery, and which took me up and over, down and through, across and around and back home again without ever missing a beat. Sold it because I stopped using it. But as I said, I love reading your story for the ups, downs, innovations, alterations, successes, losses, wins and hardships it has been giving you. You are our resident soap opera Phil and keep on keeping on mate!

Plassy, spent the last 2 days in Melb heat working on the beast - unbelievable to see a stock standard vehicle, and so easy to work on, however every damn nut and bolt required a liberal dose of RP7 to get it un-done - man alive the tailshaft bolts did a number on me - they were locked up and needed a hercules like Rossco to break the buggers. Giving MB a hand.

[Rossco]

Plassy, spent the last 2 days in Melb heat working on the beast - unbelievable to see a stock standard vehicle, and so easy to work on, however every damn nut and bolt required a liberal dose of RP7 to get it un-done - man alive the tailshaft bolts did a number on me - they were locked up and needed a hercules like Rossco to break the buggers. Giving MB a hand.Haha don't think it was Hercules me more like Hercules power of your ugga dugga lol[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

Sent from my SM-S711B using Tapatalk

[Plasnart]

Plassy, spent the last 2 days in Melb heat working on the beast - unbelievable to see a stock standard vehicle, and so easy to work on, however every damn nut and bolt required a liberal dose of RP7 to get it un-done - man alive the tailshaft bolts did a number on me - they were locked up and needed a hercules like Rossco to break the buggers. Giving MB a hand.

You bloody be gentle and kind please. Still in love.

[PeeBee]

Latest installment in the quest for reliability.

The truck became a resistant starter 3 days ago, cranking over and taking maybe 3 minutes to actually catch and fire up, which then removed the southern suburbs of Melbourne from my viewpoint with the black cloud. I thought it was a fuse blown as found 3 that had left the chat, one of which powered the glowplug timer circuit. So replaced the fuse, no joy. Opened up the glowplug timer, the after market PowerTrain unit supplied as part of the conversion. No lights coming on for the pre het and the after glow, so re-programmed the unit, increasing pre start glow to 20 sec and the same for after glow. No joy. So chasd the world for a supplier of the unit, eventually made contact with a mob in NZ who stock them, but wanted $160 for the delivery charge on a $50 item. That ended in tears, and I decided to buy an OEX timer as they are widely distributed in Aust, for $185 from Repco, had it 6 hrs later.
Around this time I persisted with the starting analysis and it was getting longer and longer to fire up. I rewired the glowplug circuit to a manual over ride, added a piezo buzzer to indicate 100% when the timer was powered, bingo, the timer pre and aft led's fired up, but still no glowplug joy.
Last thing on the list was the glow plug timer relay. I have a spare - safely packed away in that secret spot in the garage, never to be found again, so rang PAP, and there are two units avail, the direct part number replacement at $99 or an absolutely identical unit with a different Nissan part number for $84, so as recommended by Dave at PAP, go with the cheaper one, save the $15, which I did, picked it up this morning.
Arrived home, attempted to swap out the old for new, one terminal decided it didn't want to leave and thats the one in the pic, the terminal is welded onto itself. So I cut the wire to the 'lets stay here' terminal and attached it to a spare pigtail connector that isn't used in the loom. Instant gratification, pre glow and after glow fully operational, motor kicks off in under a second.

What a cluster, but I guess I learnt a few things and followed a process to resolve.88484 88486

What do the gauge numbers tell us.
Ambient temp is 22 degC in the airbox, and confirmed by the air temp sender inside the front guard.
Interchiller water temps are 2degC - did drop to 1 degC - these were 73 degC on the Madigan Line trip
Fuel Temps dropped from ambient to 9 degC - did drop to 8degC - these were 50degC on the Madigan trip
Air temp post the barrel intercooler with the interchiller water drops to 12degC,
Air temp post compression and in the inlet manifold is 27degC, instead of circa 85degC
So the net gains result in denser and cooler air to the s/c'r which will deliver lower egt's ultimately.
The fuel typically sits at ambient plus 10degC so this is now controlled by the interchiller circuit heat exchanger, resulting is a stable and higher calorific value for the fuel, and I dont expect it will get near to the drop off point of 48degC where the calorific value starts to rapidly drop off.

[PeeBee]

I took some brain relief time out yesterday and added a 'Demon' aluminum Catch Can between the PCV valve and the s/c inlet. the Demon unit is of very high quality and small in size. the only issue for me was the 3/8 and 1/2" hoses as the PCV hoses are 1". Anyway, all mounted and very neat. Took about an hour as i sorted out the parts in advance.

Last item on the list is getting the cruise control to work, sort of like the issue you have avoided at any opportunity. The fault finding is not disclosing a solution to get the vacuum actuator, but I will follow this thru to conclusion.

[PeeBee]

Arrived home after a week away without any maintenance charge going on , and must have caught mudski disorder as battery was at 0 volts. I tried to couple it in parallel to get a base voltage of at least 10V - didn't work, even with thwo chargers in play. This is one of the Optima Blue units and first time this has happened. Anyway rang up Battery World where I bought it 2 yrs ago - 'bring it down, we will have a look at it', so big shout out, they put it on their commercial charger and it started to take charge so left it with them for the day.

They rang me at 3pm and said it started out at 25amp rate and was now sitting at 2.5amps, so its good to go, just discharged badly. Anyway, I decided to buy another 10amp charger as they didn't want to charge me for the reconditioning, to replace the Cetec 10amp unit that 5 yrs old and gets very hot when charging. Decided to also buy a mechanical terminal isolator for use n the neg terminal, rated at 1200CCA, so fitted it all up this arvo. Big shout out to this branch, helpful, not pushing anything, recommended items of best value, give them a go if in the area, they have a wide range of stock.

Interesting though, they used to do a heap of the Optima range until maybe 5 yrs ago when the manufacturing base changed to Mexico. Since then they had so many batteries returned under warranty so only hold a couple as emerg stock for like for like replacement. I asked what he could recommend and it was a local made battery in Australia, $200 less than the Optima, has the dual terminals as well.

[PeeBee]

Found an ITECH BM500 battery monitor in the garage, will connect it up tomorrow. Only issue is to set the % capacity the battery voltage should be at 13.5V. I have two Victron 30amp chargers trying to get there, most I can achieve is 13.3 on the 400a/hr bank - any ideas? I could roll it out into the sun I guess and get some solar input perhaps?

[PeeBee]

OK, bit of a development. I contacted ITECH this morning, spoke to a very attentive guy in the techncal dept, expalined I am struggling to get over 13.2V into the batterys where 100% full is 13.5, and he advised in a parallel set up one of the batteries has likley failed and needs to be returned for warranty replacement. OK, thats refreshing, so then the issue was the next stage of determining which one - the batteries are built into a bum in a bucket config for space economy. Anyway took 10 mins to disassemble the box which was bettr than I thought, then decouple all the batteries from the common pos+ and neg- buss bars.

Currently have 4 lithium rated battery chargers topping up the batteries, all started at 13.2V - the one that doesn't come up to 13.5 is the culprit.

So, the 100a/hr are no longer made, and in a parallel setup all batteries need to be the same a/hr rating. The only ofering as a replacenet is a 100a/hr slimline, which is 100mm longer, wont fit - never a dull moment here folks.

Anyway, ITECH are doing a hunt around to see if they have a single unit squirreled around for a replacement. I guess I will know if the fulty one identifies itself overnight or not.

At 13.2V the system is at 93% charged, but I would prefer the full 1005 as that what I paid for. The decision then is around running on 400AHR at 93% or 300ahr at 100% - will see what they say and if the situation will get worse and the under-performer drags the system down lower.

[PeeBee]

OK, so put the batteries on a top up charge, individually , until the lithium chargers all reached their storage status or essentially full. I had measured the battery voltages immediately after disconnecting the busbar and they were all sitting at 13.18V.

After 6 hrs, and disconnection and re-measurement after 1hr, got the following results.
Bat A - 13.14/13.14, Bat B - 13.2/13.18, Bat C - 13.20/13.17, Bat D - 14.06/13.95

Full is 13.5

So back to ITech, they need to review with their engineers, and get back to me tomorrow. Something strange going on, BUT they want all 4 batteries returned to Perth for the assessment - urrgggghhhh, transporting lithium batteries cross country, this is going to be interesting, negating hundreds of thousand are shipped around now, but sure to strike some young upstart who declares they need to be delivered by Uber or similar from Melb to Perth.

Anyway, at worst I say no, and put up with 360a/hr instead of 400a/hr - not the end of the world I guess - just want something from ITECH to accept this odd situation and warrant the batteries for the full 3 yrs full replacement - difficult now they dont make this battery size or discharge profile, and then the remaining 2 yrs warranty pro-rata. I am leaning on the hope of fair outcome, will let you know.

[mudski]

Your doing well mate. My brother is also an engineer and he is the biggest procrastinator on earth. It literally takes him weeks on even how to go about changing a light bulb in his house. Any decision he has to make he writes down all possible scenarios and then crosses them off one by one until there's one. Even then he's still not convinced. Its quite funny watching him.

Where you. You just get it done.

[BrazilianY60]

My brother is also an engineer and he is the biggest procrastinator on earth. It literally takes him weeks on even how to go about changing a light bulb in his house. Any decision he has to make he writes down all possible scenarios and then crosses them off one by one until there's one. Even then he's still not convinced. Its quite funny watching him.

I know what you mean... Wish I would just let things go easily off my brain instead of carrying them over for weeks/months.

[PeeBee]

Your doing well mate. My brother is also an engineer and he is the biggest procrastinator on earth. It literally takes him weeks on even how to go about changing a light bulb in his house. Any decision he has to make he writes down all possible scenarios and then crosses them off one by one until there's one. Even then he's still not convinced. Its quite funny watching him.

Where you. You just get it done.

Mark,

working from Melb for the time being. I have resolved the Lithium charge issue. Spoke with a different tech at ITECH yesterday and he suggested just using the charger that achieved the 13.95V charge, on each of the other batteries. Got me thinking this was the Victron 30amp unit with single output. I was also using another Victron 30amp unit but it has 3 outlets. Penny dropped there is only 10amp/leg on the second one, so made up some new leads last night and hooked the 30amp unit to the second battery, and the second 30amp unit with three legs to the 3rd lithium and left overnight.

Bingo, battery 2 charged to 13.9, battery 3 charged to 13.9, so came down to state of discharge and inability of a 10amp charge rate to lift the baseline. Currently charging battery 4 with a 30amp Victron and expect all resolved. Checked the Optima this morning also, with the new ground isolation switch in place, sitting at 13V after 2 days, has not budged - great when a plan comes off.

[PeeBee]

Managed to blow the 105amp alternator up today, fuse didn't protect it when I have a spark connecting the rear battery bank - oh well, wanted to swap it out to the 300amp unit anyway - now have the driver. I tell ya, if its electrical I can stuff it.

[PeeBee]

After a del]al of analysis, added an isolation switch to thr negative side of th 400a/hr lithium cell. I have charged the rear batteries to 13.5V, 100% capacity, and the front to 100% capacity, with a neg isolation switch. Everything functioni9ng as required, all parasitic loads ignored, not chasing the leakage as they dont matter in my mind if they are not in play. I am going to add isolation switches, have them in hand to the positive outputs for the front and rear batteries, just need some spare time to do that.

I also have been researching the possibilities of using turnip juice as a fuel instead of diesel, seems an emerging opportunity but will to give it a go. I can pick up fresh turnips for less than a tenth of what they charge for discount diesel and none of the nasty carbon emissions. I believe the planet can be saved from the evil 4wd's out there destroying our future, and will make this my crusade. I also like marmalade sundae's.







Nurssssseeeee! where is my giraffe? Has greta called today?

[mudski]

Whatever you are smoking Phil. Can i have some? I'm about to embark on a lithium setup in the rear of my GU, so i can get rid of the aux battery under the bonnet to make way for a custom air box i will build myself.

I think i need some Turnip jooce! I found using cat wee instead of adblu made the exhaust smell a lot better too....

[Brissieboy]

I found using cat wee instead of adblu made the exhaust smell a lot better too....

But takes quite a while to train 'em to piddle in the correct tank.

[PeeBee]

Whatever you are smoking Phil. Can i have some? I'm about to embark on a lithium setup in the rear of my GU, so i can get rid of the aux battery under the bonnet to make way for a custom air box i will build myself.

I think i need some Turnip jooce! I found using cat wee instead of adblu made the exhaust smell a lot better too....

One thing I have noticed with the ITECH batteries is they will charge to say 14.2V, then the battery charger will hold them at 13.5V float, however when the float charge is dropped off, they relax to 13.3V - all this might be a bit academic as its 98.5% off theoretical, but just a comment if you go chasing that extra 'bit', I cant get there and have the battery earth isolated after charging so there isn't any parasitic load in play. I am happy where this has landed, finally. I have ruled out an under charging battery charger also.

[PeeBee]

Dug into the issue that I thought was a blown up alternator today. I was running a 105amp unit and wanted to swap it out for the 300amp unit anyway, so went thru the process of changing them over, and fired the car up, no volts again. Ok, start troubleshooting and found a 300amp breaker I was using as the isolator on the newly installed amp meter was showing voltage on one terminal and nothing on the other. The switch mechanism had failed after less than 1hr of use, 5 starts I reckon. Anyway, the braker style device suited my ability to quickly disconnect the charge cable to solve the inferred problem of parasitic bleed off from other sources, soooo, wrong solution, took it out of the circuit.

Also, I purchased a quick disconnect/slide switch when down at battery world, supposedly rated at 1200amps - well not it isn't, I 'glow the car, hit the crank position and the car just gets power to the starter then cuts off all power, everything dead. I found another heavy cable and jumpered around the earth isolation switch - bingo, the switch cant handle the crank amperage. Its a nice switch, you can buy them on-line for $30, cost me $70 retail. I will use it somewhere else that does not have the amp draw and se if the problem persists - maybe I have damaged it - no idea, but quick break reset isolators are off my list from here, looking for something else now.

Anyway, another problem/task off the list, just need to get the cruise control working and check the alignment of the rear axle after adjusting the adjustable arm to roll the diff over for better shocker clearance.

[Sprock]

Hey Philo, I predict somewhere way off in the future seeing that Patrol of yours in some sort of a museum or maybe Ripleys believe it or not

[PeeBee]

Hey Philo, I predict somewhere way off in the future seeing that Patrol of yours in some sort of a museum or maybe Ripleys believe it or not

Sprocky Doodle, funny how thoughts align, I was only thinking about you yesterday morning whilst having a shower. Great times.

Anyway, its been a science lab that just kept going. I keep telling myself i am finished, but always find that extra 'thing'

How are you getting on, still hauling timber or has that finally been killed off?

[PeeBee]

Bit of a performance update.

I took the car out today into the heat, to check out the fruits of my labour - well, I am happy.

Some of the stas and changes in conditions seen today

1) Ambient temp 25degC, interchilled HEX inlet temp 28deg C, outlet 16DegC, post S/C w2a Hex, air temp 51 degC. Fuel temp 8deg C, interchiller coolant temp 6 degC, boost 10psi, EGT on both banks at 80kmhr 105DegC, radiator temp 77degC steady, roofrack HEX temp 49degC, running Interchiller on boost meaning 100% of cooling going into the water chiller loop.
2) Ambient temp 36 DegC, interchilled HEX inlet temp 39DegC, outlet 27degC, post s/c HEX air temp 64Deg C, Fuel temp 12 degC, Interchiller water temp 9 degC, boost 10psi, egts on both banks at 80 kmhr 141degC, radiator temp steady at 80degC, roodrack radiator water temp 56 DegC, interchiller running on 100% boost.
3) Cabin temps started to rise to 45degC with not a/c cooling so I dropped the interchiller off boost to stage 1 with the following results, inlet air temp to interchilled HEX 45degC, outlet 34DegC, post s/c hex temp 72degC, interchiller water temp, 14degC, fuel temp 18degC, boost 10psi at 80 psi, egts steady at 170degC at 80kmhr, roofrack radiator temp 60DegC.

Still struggling to burp the engine radiator, cant get the engine hotter than 77degC at fast idle stationery at 1500rpm, minor air bubbles coming out up to 20mins, then gave it away. Only chasing the bubble free as better heat transfer and the low water level gauge drives me nuts for the first 10 mins then goes off.

Did the benchmark Yarra Glen Hill to Christmas Hills today with Rossco and AB on board, bottom of hill 80 degC, top of hill 95 degC, maybe 70-80klm speed, loping along. With AB on board equivalent to 300L of fuel and 200L water I reckon.

Car running like a bird, finally.

[PeeBee]

Bit of a performance update.

I took the car out today into the heat, to check out the fruits of my labour - well, I am happy.

Some of the stas and changes in conditions seen today

1) Ambient temp 25degC, interchilled HEX inlet temp 28deg C, outlet 16DegC, post S/C w2a Hex, air temp 51 degC. Fuel temp 8deg C, interchiller coolant temp 6 degC, boost 10psi, EGT on both banks at 80kmhr 105DegC, radiator temp 77degC steady, roofrack HEX temp 49degC, running Interchiller on boost meaning 100% of cooling going into the water chiller loop.
2) Ambient temp 36 DegC, interchilled HEX inlet temp 39DegC, outlet 27degC, post s/c HEX air temp 64Deg C, Fuel temp 12 degC, Interchiller water temp 9 degC, boost 10psi, egts on both banks at 80 kmhr 141degC, radiator temp steady at 80degC, roodrack radiator water temp 56 DegC, interchiller running on 100% boost.
3) Cabin temps started to rise to 45degC with not a/c cooling so I dropped the interchiller off boost to stage 1 with the following results, inlet air temp to interchilled HEX 45degC, outlet 34DegC, post s/c hex temp 72degC, interchiller water temp, 14degC, fuel temp 18degC, boost 10psi at 80 psi, egts steady at 170degC at 80kmhr, roofrack radiator temp 60DegC.

Still struggling to burp the engine radiator, cant get the engine hotter than 77degC at fast idle stationery at 1500rpm, minor air bubbles coming out up to 20mins, then gave it away. Only chasing the bubble free as better heat transfer and the low water level gauge drives me nuts for the first 10 mins then goes off.

Did the benchmark Yarra Glen Hill to Christmas Hills today with Rossco and AB on board, bottom of hill 80 degC, top of hill 95 degC, maybe 70-80klm speed, loping along. With AB on board equivalent to 300L of fuel and 200L water I reckon.

Car running like a bird, finally.

[Plasnart]

Bit of a performance update.

(snip)

Did the benchmark Yarra Glen Hill to Christmas Hills today with Rossco and AB on board, bottom of hill 80 degC, top of hill 95 degC, maybe 70-80klm speed, loping along. With AB on board equivalent to 300L of fuel and 200L water I reckon.

Car running like a bird, finally.

Ouch! :D.

But that is great news Phil. Amazing amount of work, analysis, review, re-work and blood, sweat and tears has gone into your build. Very happy it’s coming together for you.

[PeeBee]

Ouch! :D.

But that is great news Phil. Amazing amount of work, analysis, review, re-work and blood, sweat and tears has gone into your build. Very happy it’s coming together for you.

He has a big personality

[Cremulator]

Ouch! :D.

But that is great news Phil. Amazing amount of work, analysis, review, re-work and blood, sweat and tears has gone into your build. Very happy it’s coming together for you.I gotta say the same as Plassey.
It's really wonderful to read about all the hard work you have put in finally coming together for a successful test and not ending in another fault to chase.
I really like the data logging you record, it's the greatest way to confirm the hard work to yourself and prove the decisions to others.
Well done Phil.

[PeeBee]

I gotta say the same as Plassey.
It's really wonderful to read about all the hard work you have put in finally coming together for a successful test and not ending in another fault to chase.
I really like the data logging you record, it's the greatest way to confirm the hard work to yourself and prove the decisions to others.
Well done Phil.

Thanks, I think the whole purpose of these forums is to share the info.

I had a heart start moment on the way home from Yarra Glen yesterday arvo though. The roof mounted radiator system has a drain line just like a standard radiator has, and I was chuffing along with the window down, then got a shower of green liquid onto the arm - F***, dont want this right now. Anyway, pulled over under a tree and found the discharge point, all normal, just pressure relief at work. I bought a Bushman 15L fridge freezer for the hotter trips, so emptied out the truck into the garage, displacing the wifes car in the process - also filled half of the study - its started already - when are you...... you have too much stuff, when are you..... Guess its just a sign of 'normal returning'

[PeeBee]

Seem to only find Windows to work on the when it's hot, but anyway I reversed the fan direction on the roof radiators, will see how that works. Started into the first iteration of repacking since the big trip. Options and more changes, mounted the freezer in its most usable spot then compromised the storage tub setup, on it goes. Off to the Vic high country next week so just about packed and ready, two doors have decided they don't want to open so trim has to come off to work thru the mechanisms. Happy days I guess.

[PeeBee]

Note to myself to keep on top of the fuel filter service intervals. On the way home from the weekend the fuel pressure dropped to 5psi from 10psi whilst cruising, then dropped to zero. The car would only boost to 3-4psi, and run smoothly up to 1400rpm, then start to shudder and starve. I drove about 50klm under these conditions then pulled over and put the car on a rope behind my brother for the return trip home. If its not the filter its the new Carter Black lift pump, 5000klm old. Just not ready to get under the truck and get covered in fuel just yet so the problem awaits my attention.
Car ran beautifully up until then, cooling system brilliant, just more bee stings

[Touses]

Hi Phil,
Just a thought.
Does the lift pump have a filter of it's own?
Ie , mounted before or after the pump but before the main filter(s)?
Had a similar prob on a vehicle, removed said filter and all well.

[PeeBee]

Hi Phil,
Just a thought.
Does the lift pump have a filter of it's own?
Ie , mounted before or after the pump but before the main filter(s)?
Had a similar prob on a vehicle, removed said filter and all well.

I run a filter pre the pump to protect it. Its a large/medium size donaldson, sourced from mudski. I think its clogged, yet to get under the car to replace it - not keen on the diesel after shave odor bath, but it has to happen. I also used to run a small ryco style pre the transfer pump when I had two tanks, but found the amount of material collected was minimal to zero, so went with the larger unit - just think I pushed the interval too long and its had a lot of fuel thru it and sits for weeks on end without moving either. I will post some pics of the debris once its out. I also need to check out the lift pump, have a spare but fingers crossed its not that.

[mudski]

Phil if the filter used is P581682, thats a 9mic filter. A wee bit too fine to be first cab off the rank to see fuel from the tank. This is probably why its clogged. But you got that back in 2022 so if probably done a few k's anyway.

I'd start with a 20-30mic filter then have the finer filters closer to the engine. This way all filters are doing a job, not just the first filter catching most and the secondary(s) doing not a lot.

[PeeBee]

Phil if the filter used is P581682, thats a 9mic filter. A wee bit too fine to be first cab off the rank to see fuel from the tank. This is probably why its clogged. But you got that back in 2022 so if probably done a few k's anyway.

I'd start with a 20-30mic filter then have the finer filters closer to the engine. This way all filters are doing a job, not just the first filter catching most and the secondary(s) doing not a lot.

Thanks Mark, I am only running the single filter. This is in alignment with what is normally set up on the patrol from factory, and I think they are 10um filters? I dont disagree with the rationale though, however now adding a second unit from under the car is going to be a challenge - I bought the second unit from you so I guess I will look at that - what is the indicator of the filtration size on the filter - is it simply a 30um or 9um marking? Regards miles, the unit was bought whilst the cab exchange was in progress so its not done more than 5K in kilometers despite the time.

[PeeBee]

Another day spent on the concrete paying homage to the Chev Monster. Root cause of the fuel blockage turned out to be a failed fuel computer flowmeter. These are stainless steel bodied, precision devices, and I noticed one had rattled loose from its mounting bolts. I found after replacing both the filter, which had minimal crap in in, little bit of water, and then the Cater Black Lift Pump, I still didn't have fuel to the engine. Process of staged disconnections led to the fault being the flowmeter, so bypassed it and away the flow started. I then decided to take both the supply and return line unitits out of play until I find something to replace them. Next the voltage to the Injector Pump solenoid decided to dip to 9V - WTF now. So, after a long day and patience at its limit I jumpered around the issue and drove the truck into the garage after letting it idle then a few squirts to 3K on the tacho, only to find after unloading a heap of gear out of, the Codan Antenna was hitting the garage door, so load the crap back into it and get it inside, closed door, good night, at least I know what it wasnt.

[PeeBee]

Further rooting around yesterday, now back to square one it seems. I did some cable reconfiguration when installing the new Victron 50amp DCDC units - in parallel to give me the 100amp charge rate for the 400ahr bank, and inadvertently left 3 cables off the positive bank connection post This dropped power off the Codan HF, the uhf's and stopped the roof mounted fans and lift pump. I also found two 20amp fuses blown, so going to employ my fuse ammeter tester in the near future to test the individual fuse capacities against the circuit loads.
Currently waiting for 2 x banks of fuses to arrive so I can protect the circuits off the positive posts. They are fused however more at source use than supply - simply was the way I ran it earlier, now want it at the battery. Going to a larger frame midi frame that Victron use.

[PeeBee]

mudski, what a spectacular supplier of brilliant customer service. I was speaking with Mark at 8.30am this morning, to sort out a filter order. I paid for the items via card then the filters were on my doorstep at 10am - cant beat that, and very keen pricing to boot. Thanks Mark, I recommend his services to all here.

[mudski]

Thanks Phil. But it was purely timing on this occasion that my driver was going straight past your way that same morning. If you'd rang half hour later it would have missed the morning run.