Harrop 2300 supercharger to Optimiser 6500

[PeeBee]

Struggling with an on-going issue. I came home on the end of a tow rope maybe 4 weeks ago. The car lost power, would not rev over 1400rpm under load and would rev to 3000 then die. I thought it was dirty fuel o faulty lift pump so changed both. Problem persisted so let me to believe one of the fuel computer flow meters has died so took these out of the circuit. Thought problem was sorted then today it died within 3 minutes, initially low fuel pressure the restarted it and back to 11psi. I have wired a direct jumper cable from battery to the injector pump soledoid, and it is a solid flick, indicating fuel has a pathway to the motor. Glow plugs are fully functional. I am going to bypass everything from the outlet of the lift pump to the downstream side of the fuel heat exchanger. How can I test the solenoid is chattering or failing ? Bit at a loss
I guess I should drop the fuel as a test but it looked pretty good when I pumped it thru

[mudski]

Could you run a temporary test light as such, to the solenoid and run the vehicle. If theres intermittent power to the solenoid the light should go off an on aswell. Dunno. my knowledge is very limited on this stuff.

[PeeBee]

Could you run a temporary test light as such, to the solenoid and run the vehicle. If theres intermittent power to the solenoid the light should go off an on aswell. Dunno. my knowledge is very limited on this stuff.

Good idea Mark, I was going to simply listen to the solenoid and see if its dropping out, however unsure how I would get a signal as the power is direct off the battery, so it wont be dropping out but the solenoid may be failing or chattering - I need some help on this. Is there a filter or strainer on the factory fuel tank level device? I am also probably going to put some compressed air down the line from the lift pump back to the tank - lid off the tank, and see if tat improves the scenario. All just takes time and I am fed up with this issue to be frank. Car was running like a bird, then it started to stutter.

[PeeBee]

I an also considering the sitation where I have been chilling the fuel too low with the interchiller loop and resulting in fuel gelling, which would intermittently or gradually clog the filter - perhaps? The current setup has the fuel sitting anywhere from 2-8degC normally around 12 degC. This is the temp coming back from the tank, as it takes a bit to drop the whole system down, so its conceivable the fuel temp in the heat exchanger is getting well below that - its a hypothesis I guess????

Anyway, I run a very expensive winter additive, and reached for the new can this arvo to dose the tank - only to find the un-opened can was 60% full - thats not great value. Anyway, reached out to the supplier, who I have bought a lot of gear from, and surprised, but whole new can on the way, no qualms - great customer service.

[mudski]

Can you raise the temps for the fuel? Or shut it off completely to test run it so the fuel is at ambient temp? Your theory does sound plausible...

[PeeBee]

I dosed the tank up with a deep cold brew additive. I then ran the car at 1000, 1500, 2500 and finally 3000rpm for maybe 30 minutes. The engine was stuttering and hunting all over the place from 1000, surging to 1800, running very rough. By the end, the fuel temp was at 40 degC and radiator at 93degC. I brought it back to idle and its ticking along like a watch, so from now the fuel cooler only gets used when fuel is above 40 degC and then with moderation to a limit of say 30degC, as I am sure I pushed the limit too far. Will run it again tomorrow and gauge the result.

[mudski]

Im wondering if cooling the fuel affects the injector performance as the fuel surface tension/ thickness/ runnyness is not going to be, normal?

[PeeBee]

Im wondering if cooling the fuel affects the injector performance as the fuel surface tension/ thickness/ runnyness is not going to be, normal?

Cooling the fuel to around zero allows the formation of wax within the fuel. The viscosity no doubt does change, however the symptoms suggest the filter pre the lift pump was plugged as I was getting reduced pump pressure - instead of 10psi I saw 5 then down to zero, like the pump had failed. When I disconnected the fuel hose from the discharge of the pump, at home, with a long fuel hose, open ended the flow was there, however no pressure, fuel sort of pumped out very slowly, instead of at a gushing rate when the fuel normally would shoot 3-4m out of the hose, it was like 5cm at best.
Also, if the fuel was thicker and there was no blinding of the filter, the fuel pressure would rise as its density has increased. The Carter Blacks are rated to 15psi I believe, however they can only produce pressure as to what the system resistance is. Now, funny enough, and this might seem an opposite argument, once I had run the viscosity improver - cold weather ant gel liquid, the system pressure rose to 11.5psi, normally flatlines at 10psi. I put this down to the pump being able to pump more diesel to the injector pump and the increase in vol/vel generates the higher system resistance or pressure.
So, I think the plug formation was forming inside the fuel lines as well, however from yesterdays trial, appears to have now been resolved.
I dont know about injector performance however the Standyne pump is a bit different configuration to most - there is an internal reservoir inside the pump where the injector feed pistons feed from. Any fuel above the nominal feedline is simply pushed out of the pump to return to tank. I guess is the diesel is thicker it wont flow as readily into the piston cavity, hence there could be cavitation occurring or 'short filling' taking place, which might also partially explain why the engine was running so poorly. Once its into the charge piston, I guess it would affect the spray pattern out the nozzles as well, but being a direct displacement, it would have to be pushed out - higher internal pump pressures I guess. Bit of speculation here, but you can follow the process. If the overall reservoir was lower or barely matching demand there could be a cavitation scenario taking place also.

[PeeBee]

Fired the truck up this arvo, runs sweet! Reckon this was the issue all along, fuel gelling - another piece of the puzzle

[BrazilianY60]

This deserves an youtube video of the beast chugging down the road like a road-train. In-cab. No instrument readings. Just the GQ bonnet, the road and the sound!

[PeeBee]

This deserves an youtube video of the beast chugging down the road like a road-train. In-cab. No instrument readings. Just the GQ bonnet, the road and the sound!

Its funny the engine does not sound anything like the hollywood styled soundtracks. The supercharger at revs is quite a 'zinggy sound' not a Mad Max thunderous roar. It does however project an air raid siren howl forward when I am driving, absolutely howls, can be heard from 500m away easily.

[PeeBee]

Still not out of the woods. I swapped over the All Terrains for my Muddies, and went for a spin. Car is still down on power when cold, hesitates, like its out of power, and the fuel pump pressure dropped to zero then rose again after a couple of seconds. The fuel chiller was off, ambient temps 34 DegC, fuel temp rose to 40 degC. Once the engine was up to around 70degC rad temp, its running sweetly. Cant put my finger on the issue, dont think its glowplug duration.

Decided to bite the bullet and power up the hydraulic circuit today to decide where the leaks were coming from and which I was going to fix myself. The major one is at one fitting into a check valve, then at the pressure relief valve, and a couple of minor leaks but all need fixing. Also, have a crazy pressure spike going on,flow to the front winch sits at 600kpa going thru the open centre valve dcv, and on the rear its sitting at 2000lpa, then drops when the valve is actuated - maybe something is stuck in the open centre spool - dunno, another ghost to chase. This may end up with a mobile hydraulics guys to sort out - its now a pig to get to the fittings as all were laid out when the body was off - big mistake.

[PeeBee]

OK, reckon I have finished my rough running issues. Dropped the contents of the fuel tank, about 30 litres, after dosing it with algae killer and cold weather anti gelling fluid. Fuel was a mix of dirt, water, algae whatever, it was filthy. New filter was clogged again, was running but not that healthy. Flushed it out with 4 Litres of metho to chase out the remnant water, then new filter and 40Litres of fresh stuff, left the lift pump to do its stuff for 30 mins and fired up first go. No doubt there is some residual material left in the lines and pump, will change over the filter in 500klm, and should be sorted. Hope this is the end of it, unsure if its a long term issue or a crappy batch of fuel. Engine sounds so much better and smoother.8868388684886858868688687

A

[PeeBee]

Next, moved onto the hydraulic system leaks the next day, attacked the two largest one. What a mess. Found I had missing washers and washers that were compression damaged - the ones with the rubber inner seal. Anyway, suffering the ills of not allowing for access once the body was re-installed - poor engineering - so what should have been a 15 minute job ended up into hours. The exhaust flange joints were a problem on the Madigan Line trip, once again 4 out of 6 bolted joints were loose, so swung past the bolt bar today and bought fine thread nots and bolts instead of what I could find in the bottom of the spares bag on the side of the road - expect this will sort things out. Found a protective corrugated sheath heat affected from the heat from the exhaust - so going to sheath it in high temp stuff.
Headed down to Pirtek, laid out all my dirty laundry on the counter and the tech sorted it out without a problem, bought a new mini grease gun as well. Hope to get all this back together this week. Still have an odd high pressure issue to resolve. The front winch circuit idles at 60psi and selecting the rear, it spikes to 2200psi, think the spool valve is sticking on the rear winch. Another mystery to resolve.

[PeeBee]

New hoses and fittings installed this arvo, need to wait a day or so for the sealant to go off on the threaded joints. Exhaust back together, but going to pull the 30mm long bolts out and replace with 45mm so I can get two nuts and a spring wash on each bolt.

Almost back to where I was 2 months ago when dirty fuel raised its head - if only I had looked there first.

[BrazilianY60]

Flushed it out with 4 Litres of metho to chase out the remnant water

What is metho and what is the technique to get rid of water? Does this thing react with water?

[PeeBee]

What is metho and what is the technique to get rid of water? Does this thing react with water?

Methylated Spirits, mixes with the water and converts it to a methanol of sorts which then burns readily. The flush helped to remove any remaining water which would be sitting on the base of the fuel tank. I had the vehicle tipped up towards the drain point, but the final flush still resulted in water droplets coming out.

[PeeBee]

So sorted out the hydraulic hoses and exhaust and decided to take it down and fill up the fuel tank to dilute any remaining contaminants before running for 500klm and swapping the fuel filter. Car kicked up nice and healthy, then I got 200m and it stopped again. It did fire back up but was runnng rough, coughing and spluttering, finally cleared its throat and took it for a 10klm drive and running fine, maybe still feels a bit down on power - there is one more in-line sight glass to check for clogging - I installed these when the body was off to allow monitoring of the priming function, and left them in place - now buried in the engine bay. Apart from that I am running out f ideas on what is going on. The lift pump once again did not look like it was actually priming pre engine crank, but did catch as soon as the engine started up. I am running a direct feed from battery to the IP solenoid with a fuse, and thats working, can hear the click as it is connected. I am now thinking perhaps the fuel solenoid is breaking down, and chattering regardless of the 12V supply?
Any ideas welcome.

[mudnut]

Is there a small strainer in the injector circuit that needs a clean? I found a small water bubble covering one in my petrol EFI corolla that would make it carry on.

[PeeBee]

Is there a small strainer in the injector circuit that needs a clean? I found a small water bubble covering one in my petrol EFI corolla that would make it carry on.

Not from what I understand Craig. The last thing I am looking at is this sightglass strainer then waiting for some super system cleaner to arrive to dose the crap out of it in case there is a strainer somewhere I cant find r the lines are clogged. Unfortunately I took the flow meters out of the circuit on the belief one had failed - otherwise I could check supply and return flows - may have to reinstall - pig of a dirty painful job.

[mudski]

Fuel contamination is an absolute PIA to resolve. Everything that see's fuel running through it need to be cleaned. All you need is half a teaspoon of crap fuel in the lines and it will give you issues.

[PeeBee]

I have 3 containers of diesel system cleaner arriving tomorrow/thursday, so will wait and se if that improves the outcome. Yet to check the sightglasses, have granddaughters here, mayhem abounds!

[PeeBee]

Ran the car for 2 hrs today, totally washing out any goop in the fuel system, changing out another fuel filter tomorrow then the test drive. Finished off some heat shielding on wiring loom closest to exhaust, resolved the final nightmare bolt on the DPF , all double jutted and lock title, so with luck that's sorted, dicked around with some more wiring, built a hinged tray to give me some more room around the coffee machine, made a table slide retainer for the new camping table, the table is circa 1m high which is taller than bench top height, hope this reduces back ache, big couple of days.
Tomorow the filter, might Eire up the dashcam/rear view camera camera, have a look at the new sound system with Bluetooth connectivity, see how I go it being Mother's Day!!!

[PeeBee]

Took my time yesterday and sorted out the exhaust mounting bolts, then insulation wrapped the pipe and installed high temp insulation to the wiring loom, installed the support brackets as the last task.
Swapped over the fuel filter again, fuel was a mild yellow from an original blue, probably a result of the ultra dosing with the algae killer, still had remnants of suspended solids in the fuel that released from the filter, no doubt a lot more still stuck in the filter element. Primed it up, takes around 20mins with the lift pump, fired up with minimal fuss, so continue to run it in the garage today, before venturing out any distance, just to be sure.
Contaminated fuel - dont want to go thru this again.
Installed the new car stereo, all straight forward, just the usual fiddle, installed a crappy rubber dicky antenna instead of the expensive ZCD unit - it never delivered its 'optimised' reception for the price, so I suspect the $10 unit will perform better!!

[BrazilianY60]

see how I go it being Mother's Day!!!

There was a meme going around here on Mother's Day saying something in the lines of, "In this Sunday, thank your Father for bringing you to this world, because your Mother probably wasn't even in the mood" :D

[PeeBee]

There was a meme going around here on Mother's Day saying something in the lines of, "In this Sunday, thank your Father for bringing you to this world, because your Mother probably wasn't even in the mood" :D

It was a win-win situation, I worked on the truck in total peace, and my wife got to do what she always loves doing, washing the sheets, vacuuming the floor, ironing my clothes, washing my car, cooking my dinner - SIMPLES!

I have the last 'known' item to install, the dash cam with rear camera on the POD. I stashed it in a safe place and gave up searching for it after 2 hrs - then magically it appeared from its hiding place at 11pm on Monday night. The biggest headache is going to be running the AV cable from the main unit above the windscreen to the camera on the rear of the POD. What is pleasing however is that the system designers have elected to put the system power feed from the rear camera - for once this is an easier option than from the windscreen on previous set-ups.

[BrazilianY60]

Which camera did you get?
Every now and then I feel like buying one but when I get online there are 100's of them and I think it is hard to decide between the pros and cons.

[PeeBee]

Which camera did you get?
Every now and then I feel like buying one but when I get online there are 100's of them and I think it is hard to decide between the pros and cons.

I went with the Wolfbox 900 Pro with front and rear cameras. It doubles as a rearview mirror, but with the POD I use the feed from the rear camera. It has a few features I like, can split the screen for front and rear, front or rear only and has security alert when the car is unattended, the resolution is good, have not run it at night yet but suspect it will have an anti glare or IR function

[PeeBee]

OK, sneaked out this arvo and finished the fold out shelf in the POD - just the right size for coffeee and snacks on the run. The table slide/shelf is also pictured, made from 50 x 50 x 3 angle, nutserts into the roof frame, stiff as crazy. Also 95% on the wiring installation of the dashcam/rear camera, came up well, but unsure how robust the rear camera mounting screws are going to be with corrugations.8869788696

[BrazilianY60]

Double-side-tape the camera onto the pod and drive it around, do some backups into tight spots, shed, around town, etc. until you are happy with the positioning/view angle, etc.
Then you drill the screw holes, glue the camera with that black windscreen PU/rubber glue + the screws. Let the screws go through the PU glue, so it will work as a thread lock as well.

I checked the Wolfpro site and it is a very nice unit indeed. Just camera, no carplay/android auto BS to make the unit become obsolete after 6 months of unwanted "upgrades". Just didn't like that the front camera is part of the mirror mounted screen. I'd like to find one where the front camera is double-side-taped to the windscreen and some sort of display solution for the rear camera that I could use as a backup camera when needed, as I'd like to keep using the OEM mirror for regular driving.

A small display that could fit the GU4 lift door cubby on the top of the dash would be nice.

[PeeBee]

Double-side-tape the camera onto the pod and drive it around, do some backups into tight spots, shed, around town, etc. until you are happy with the positioning/view angle, etc.
Then you drill the screw holes, glue the camera with that black windscreen PU/rubber glue + the screws. Let the screws go through the PU glue, so it will work as a thread lock as well.

I checked the Wolfpro site and it is a very nice unit indeed. Just camera, no carplay/android auto BS to make the unit become obsolete after 6 months of unwanted "upgrades". Just didn't like that the front camera is part of the mirror mounted screen. I'd like to find one where the front camera is double-side-taped to the windscreen and some sort of display solution for the rear camera that I could use as a backup camera when needed, as I'd like to keep using the OEM mirror for regular driving.

A small display that could fit the GU4 lift door cubby on the top of the dash would be nice.

The rear camera power can be triggered off the power wire at the rear camera. I have mine set up so it is available all the time - its a simple tap the screen to toggle between front only, rear only or split front and rear, also allows for image inversion if the mounting does not suit, has a nice image tilt adjustment as well, more or less like a rear view mirror so you can rotate the view to suit how close to the car you want - unsure if it goes side to side though - have not played with it. The operator manual is pretty brief which I find a bit annoying. The screws I am taking about are the actual camera head mounts to the bracket - they look like M2 or similar and the bracket is 0.5mm thick - its cable tied via the power and AV cord so it wont get lost if it comes adrift, but I think this wont stand up to Aussie corrugated roads.

[PeeBee]

Took the barge out today for a 300klm run and ran just like it was before it got a tank of muddy water. Couple of odd diesel spots on the driveway, something not tightened up, another quest to resolve, but happy I am out of the woods.

[PeeBee]

Fixed the second last hydraulic hose leak, leaving the last one for a new day - absolute mongrel of spot to reach it. Luckily the leaks I repaired all remain intact and no drips.

Noticed I have a pressure spike when operating the Winchmax 20,000lb without load - so rang the Australian Agent, talked it thru, stated its not a warranty call, just need to understand if the spool could be sticking. Anyway, he requested a condition report so he could send it off to the Techs in the UK. Meanwhile, he found a new DCV - spare/excess to requirements - and is sending it to me free, including shipping - what an amazing service, highly recommend them, they sell electric and hydraulic winches

The Redarc radiator low level sensor has been dinging off intermittently, found it was leaking at the thread - so out it came, resealed with some Pirtek Teflon sealer, and filled back up, will see how that goes.

[mudski]

The Redarc radiator low level sensor has been dinging off intermittently, found it was leaking at the thread - so out it came, resealed with some Pirtek Teflon sealer, and filled back up, will see how that goes.

My Redarc low water sensor would also randomly go off. I check the coolant, all good. I bleed the system out again, no bubbles, no leak nothing. In the end i replaced the fitting/ clip on the end of the wire going to the sensor with a modified female spade terminal, even though it looked clean. The sensor remains quiet now. Dunno how or why, but its fixed.....

[PeeBee]

My Redarc low water sensor would also randomly go off. I check the coolant, all good. I bleed the system out again, no bubbles, no leak nothing. In the end i replaced the fitting/ clip on the end of the wire going to the sensor with a modified female spade terminal, even though it looked clean. The sensor remains quiet now. Dunno how or why, but its fixed.....

I know the fitting, I bought a new sender unit when I did the rebuild. Its sitting tight on the peg. The water level was down as when I removed the fitting , lost maybe 0.5 L of fluid and I have the low level 30mm from top of the core - its a cross flow style. Anyway, it goes off off road especially after and during hillclimbs, given up trying to bleed this pig.

[mudski]

I know the fitting, I bought a new sender unit when I did the rebuild. Its sitting tight on the peg. The water level was down as when I removed the fitting , lost maybe 0.5 L of fluid and I have the low level 30mm from top of the core - its a cross flow style. Anyway, it goes off off road especially after and during hillclimbs, given up trying to bleed this pig.

Yep the fitting was tight on mine too, but i had run out of ideas and this seemed to fix it. Mine rarely went off during hill climbs or off roading, it would just randomly go off. Making me think it wasn't just low coolant.

[PeeBee]

Another day of bee-stinging enlightenment. Hydraulics this time.

I am running the same 12V DCV front and rear. I deliberately swapped the front dcv so I had parts commonality and flowrate the same.

So I plumbed the front and rear up to the nameplate on top of the valves. On firing up the system, the 'at idle' system pressure for the front was 200psi and the rear 2000psi, and going over the pressure relief valve. Initially thought I had a check valve on the return line back to front, nope all good. Then I thought I had a stuck spool.

Made contact with the winchmax agent and he sent me out a replacement valve. The dcv to mount block can only be configured one way as the mounting holes are offset. So, after struggling in the half dark trying to swap the dcv over, without effect as the mount holes would not line up - see 'offset holes above'. So, I turned the valve around to line up the holes, only to find the PT and AB ports are now opposite to whats on the tin plate, so when I select this flow to the winch it pushes oil into a dead end and relieves over the pressure relief, and also explains why the winch is rotating opposite direction to the hand controller and more importantly why the pressure drops to circa 300psi once a forward or rev direction is selected.
The dcv to baseplate have never been seperated on either valve until now, so seems like a simple arse backwards fixed nameplate was the problem all along.

Further to this, the replacement dcv valve body thickness is machined differently and so the screws are now 4mm too long, they bottom out before clamping down the dcv to the valve block - m4 x /// or similar - Fuck me this is getting tiring. Anyway, I now have a bigger job to do with swapping the hoses around - it was a bastard to build with the body off, far worse now having to work in a shoebox size cavity. NOT happy.

[PeeBee]

Hre appears to be the root of the problem. I followed the labelling on the dcv and the rivetted label appears to be 180 deg out of sync with the valve internals.88749

the valve schematic on the left is the original valve installed and plumbed up. It presented with high pressure supposedly on open center, however if you look at the valve on the right, the replacement, its porting is 180 deg different, hence the P 'pressure port' and T tank ports are actually the A and B ports which should be going to the winch motor. What is now apparent is that I have hooked the hoses to what I thought were the press and tank return lines, into the dead end ports and its given rise to the high pressure scenario. Once you activate the dcv, the pressure drops as expected as its opened the flow, but the direction of rotation is reverse also.
Its a right PIA, as the 4 hoses will need to be remade as they are custom lengths to suit the port locations.

Further to this, the front winch dcv is correctly plumbed so its looking like a manufacturing fault.

[PeeBee]

Sorted out the arse about DCV this arvo, another 3 hrs of finger cramping back busting pleasure! Tomorrow with luck I will sort out the final hose leak. If I have time, will add a second filter to the fuel line

[PeeBee]

Last hydraulic fitting fixed, I hope! Leaving everything for a week to totally harden then should be sorted. Tidied up a couple of lingering issues, pulled the pass rear door apart to resolve a sticky locking mechanism, had a quick look at how to mount the 12v Marine oven into the Pod, tight but possible, just not sure how much heat radiates off the outer skin, probably needs an air gap and insulation. Weeping leak on radiator, bee sting 54,007

Additional filter will have to wait, it's a very tight area down the back of the car and no room under the bonnet

[PeeBee]

The rear view camera that hangs off the interior mirror put too much load on a 25 year old plastic ball joint, so down to Patrol A Part and a brand spanker bought to add further cost - $165 - ouch.

Also have rejigged the drivers side of the POD to incorporate the Travel Buddy Marine oven I have had in the garage for 3 yrs, and the new 15L freezer from Bushman to compliment the 30yr old 60L engel - still going strong on second compressor after 20 yrs.

Going to mount the freezer on some 90kg fridge slides and will then post the final pics, pretty happy with the outcome, but amazed at how in-efficient the volume has become - or maybe I used to jam it in differently??

Going to fire up the hydraulics over the weekend after letting the sealant go off for a week, fingers crossed no leaks.

[BrazilianY60]

That's some good cash for a camera support... No options to use a suction cup on the camera? Or maybe a putting a dab of silicone to the ball joint to get it tighter?

[PeeBee]

That's some good cash for a camera support... No options to use a suction cup on the camera? Or maybe a putting a dab of silicone to the ball joint to get it tighter?

Well I was looking to do just that, then did a stupid thing and removed a screw thats inside the mirror near the pivot point and it had a loose captive nut - not sure that makes sense, but it slipped out of alignment and no amount of jiggling could get it back. The trim on/around the mirror is really tight and simply could not pull it apart. I have spent so much time over the year screwing around with fuckups like this, I now just bin it and move on - pissed off at the time, but happy with the outcome as the ball mount is rock solid.

I am unsure how this would go with a suction cup, no doubt rattle off at exactly the wrong moment.

[BrazilianY60]

I know what you mean. Time is precious and we tend to overlook it.

I have spent maybe a year trying to use window seals from local cars on the rear side windows of the GQ and I still have one side with a plastic cover taped to the body. Yesterday proper GQ seals arrived from Patrolapart. No more fiddling around with the rear glass.

That said... I am stubborn. You have no actual rearview from inside due to the pod, right? Maybe get it back from the bin and break the mirror glass, tighten the captive nut or whatever and just brace the camera screen over it as usual. I recon you could also stash a chocolate bar on the now hollow space of the mirror assembly, in case your missus is watching over your calories!

[PeeBee]

I know what you mean. Time is precious and we tend to overlook it.

I have spent maybe a year trying to use window seals from local cars on the rear side windows of the GQ and I still have one side with a plastic cover taped to the body. Yesterday proper GQ seals arrived from Patrolapart. No more fiddling around with the rear glass.

That said... I am stubborn. You have no actual rearview from inside due to the pod, right? Maybe get it back from the bin and break the mirror glass, tighten the captive nut or whatever and just brace the camera screen over it as usual. I recon you could also stash a chocolate bar on the now hollow space of the mirror assembly, in case your missus is watching over your calories!

I like your thinking but its all done now, have moved onto the Bushman Freezer and Marine oven installation.

[PeeBee]

Wrapped up the installation of the Marine Oven and the Bushman freezer on slides, came out well, have 60mm airgaps around the oven on 3 sides, will be fine.

Also ran the hydraulics today, system pressure now at 300psi front and rear, like it should, so thats a win, but , the only damn fitting on the dcv mount block I didn't touch, leaks!!!! Luckily I think its a relatively quick repair, so no leaks from the system otherwise.

Had a small weeping leak from the radiator, added some "Liquid Intelligence 243 ' crystals, its an aluminum based material, that plugs then disappears where it isn't needed for the plug, no leak now, highly recommend, works on any coolant, even soluble oil like mine.

8875488755

[PeeBee]

With luck the final leak was resolved today, unsure why it had not leaked previously as the fitting was missing a factory fitted rubber sealing washer, anyway, all done, needed to head to Bunnings for a 22 and 24mm open ender then chop them in half to be able to do the job. Also I now have 5 of 30mm and 32mm spanners, all with different head angles - purchased to address what was assessed as the bastard last hose leak but thought it thru and managed without them, another 2 of each in the post as well.

Leaving it for a week then will check after the goop goes off. I am using a Pirtek 702 thread sealant, looks like the Loctite White teflon stuff, only thicker and hellishly expensive - $60 for 50ml - does not go far I can assure you, but it works brilliantly.

[PeeBee]

Spent 4 hrs wiring a new trailer plug to the car. Original factory wiring to trailer and tail light configure took some time to unravel, anyway all sorted to pick up my trailer from my brother after 4 yrs in his 'care', no idea what to expect

[Plasnart]

Spent 4 hrs wiring a new trailer plug to the car. Original factory wiring to trailer and tail light configure took some time to unravel, anyway all sorted to pick up my trailer from my brother after 4 yrs in his 'care', no idea what to expect

Bearings loose and gooey, plug pins corroded, light bulbs out, tyres cracked, gate hinges seized. You know, the usual trailer issues! :D

[PeeBee]

Bearings loose and gooey, plug pins corroded, light bulbs out, tyres cracked, gate hinges seized. You know, the usual trailer issues! :D

Yep will get a birthday, I suspect he has had it half full of crap and the steel floor is buggered. The tires certainly need a swap out, all so I can gift it to my daughter' to collect firewood 200m from their house. All good, at least it will be safe.