All Things Chev

[rainsey]

G'day Rainsey, exciting times mate ! If it's not too rude to ask, how much are they asking for a 6.5+turbo these days? PM maybe if uncomfortable with a quote divulge I understand ! Was Auto options quoted too? Cheers mate !

More than happy to share.

$33k drive in drive out including front & rear diff gearing changes.

I stuck with my existing manual transmission, as much as I would like an auto.

Cheers Rainsey


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[MB]

G'day Rainsey,
Just noticed on another thread that your beast sounds like it is back !
How is it mate, loving it :-) ?

[rainsey]

Picked it up on Friday. Had to go down to Sydney to get it so had a bit of a drive to get home... Shaws transport shipped it back from Perth. I was going to remove my brush bars before I sent it over... Thank god I did not. The Brush bars now have flat spots either side and the drivers door has dents all over it ... This I'm not happy with ... Pay big bucks for transport but obviously no responsibility on their part. And the fine print states they take no responsibility for damage...

First immediate impression .. The sound is to die for... Friggin fantastic.

Second impression... Definitely not going to race any one off at the lights ... But heck... This is not what I need.

Third impression ... Torque... By the time I managed to hit the freeway .. Never got out of fifth. Absolutely fantastic.


Took me near to half an hour to get the engine up to temp.. But the EGT's ... Wow... My ZD30 on the hill up to Berowra.. I'd be hitting 550 degrees. With the 6.5... Only just hit 200.

Had a few teething probs with some wiring issues but managed to sort them out tonight. Spent the weekend stripping gear off to get the weight down so I can get my tare weight under 2504 kg for Rego.

I still have the old engine sitting on the back so tomorrow I will be dropping it off at Simms Metal to get rid of it. Once it's off I will get out and give it a good run.

So far ... I am pretty stoked. Do not think I am going to regret it at all.

Stay tuned.

Kindest regards
Rainey


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[rainsey]

First fuel economy figures came in just driving around town, no towing.

13.8l/100 km.

About the same if not better from the original ZD30. Just goes to prove how crap the original 3 litre is on fuel.


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[the evil twin]

13.8 around town is extremely good... almost too good.
Be interesting to see if the figures stay there over a longer period.

[MB]

G'day Rainsey,
That's gold mate! Agree with ET though, amazing L's used in start/stop city conditions!
I do need maths lessons;
(all 80L maintanks I believe?)
Our stock GU 3.0L made 600-650kms
Our GU 4.2TD with 3" makes around 550-600kms
My 6.5NA makes around 450 to max 550kms.
I'm sure it's the hilly highways and air lacking.
Please do keep us posted, we're all in this together, great song :-)

[rainsey]

13.8 around town is extremely good... almost too good.
Be interesting to see if the figures stay there over a longer period.

I totally agree. Did the maths 3 times. This was, as I said, the first fillup since getting the truck back. Put it this way, I will not be overly surprised if it was a one off. But as I said ... Stay tuned.


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[rainsey]

G'day Rainsey,
That's gold mate! Agree with ET though, amazing L's used in start/stop city conditions!
I do need maths lessons;
(all 80L maintanks I believe?)
Our stock GU 3.0L made 600-650kms
Our GU 4.2TD with 3" makes around 550-600kms
My 6.5NA makes around 450 to max 550kms.
I'm sure it's the hilly highways and air lacking.
Please do keep us posted, we're all in this together, great song :-)

Interesting your comment re ' air lacking'. One thing I have noticed is this almost metallic sucking sound that I am assuming is the engine trying to drag every cubic mm of air out of a standard Safari snorkel.

Do you or anyone else following this post noticing the same?

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[Kimbo63]

Yep the sweet sound of the turbo sucking air

[MB]

I wish I had that noise you lucky buggers ;-)

[Kimbo63]

You can have a drive in my rig mark no problemo

[MB]

You can have a drive in my rig mark no problemo
Thanks Kimbo, that would be really appreciated mate !

[Kimbo63]

Thanks Kimbo, that would be really appreciated mate !
no worries it will be good for you to compare with your truck mate

[MB]

no worries it will be good for you to compare with your truck mate
For sure mate, looking forward to arriving West soon :-)

[rainsey]

O/k,

I took the truck down to the engineer in Sydney South West today to get the engine conversion and GVM upgrade all engineered.

Bit of freeway driving but a hell of a lot of bumper to bumper peek hour traffic ( a couple of hours worth ). Just filled up... 14.4l/100km.

This brings my average to 14.1 with a brand new tight engine. So this is still on par with my ZD30 engine.

I am over the moon. If this averages out as the norm, I will be no worse off fuel wise.


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[rainsey]

Oh, also checked the odometer. It is 120meters out at 500km when measured against 2 GPS's.. Speedo is out to buggery but the odometer seems all but spot on so the mileage figures I am doing my economy figures on a re pretty accurate.


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[MB]

Awesome fuel Rainsey, you gotta be happy with that mate :-)
Worthwhile I reckon getting a dyno report done now whilst it's all fresh so you could comparatively refer back to it say yearly and or after any future possible mods like exhausts/air intakes etc.. I've somehow lost mine I had done when first purchased the truck complete. To the best of my memory mine only came in just under 100kw and I think 350-400nm range being a non turbo.
Blokes have asked me why I love the 6.5 so much with numbers like that from such a big donk.
Quite simply for me it all boils down to the suited personal usage of its massive inertia with all that yanky steel chugging around at low RPM's.
As a stupid crank stressing test I can be idling at 500rpm, on flat ground, drop it into 3rd gear, release clutch without accelator and she'll take off, recovering to idle in a few metres.
(I'm running 35's and 4.3 diffs currently which I believe is one step lower than most Brunswick setups of 33's and 3.9s)
Very hard to stall these things :-) !

[rainsey]

Ha ha,

Yeah I'm sort of too scared to get it dyno'd, not sure if I really want to know how low it is in on paper performance for such a big engine. Sort of cool just being in my happy place with it.

Even if I did dyno it I'd probably have to keep the results to myself as if the figures got into the hands of members of another forum who bagged the hell out of me for going this route, they would have a field day.

Re the gearing, it is definitely an interesting beast now. I very much like driving it now compared to the ZD30. I always used to bitch about the gearing between 3rd and 4th. Whilst the gear box gearing has not changed, I definitely do not seem to find the issue any more with the changed diff gearing.

1st gear is only there to start off in for about 2 seconds, and then it is a very leisurely up shift to 5th. It is almost like the truck does not have to prove itself anymore... It just goes..
yet to tow the camper yet... Will have a crack at this next weekend.

Kindest regards

Rainsey


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[rainsey]

Well today the missus convinced me to put the camper on the back and head up to the Wattagans to play.

Again, the 6.5 is never going to break any speed records, but one thing that, no two things that never happened today:-

1: totally forgot the camper was behind the truck when I was doing some serious uphill sections.

2: I never once cursed today that my truck was a gutless piece of crap.

This is not to say that I did not get into low range but in doing so, I just walked up the sections effortlessly.

I did not quite know what to expect. Infact my expectations were probably higher than what I experienced today if I was to be truthful, but in hind sight, sections that I would have been in 2nd low range, I was in 2nd high. I actually was cruising at times in 5th without realizing it.

The only thing I did notice was that the 6.5 under load got up to temperature very fast. That said, the EGT's never got anywhere near where the ZD30 would have.

From a water temp perspective, get under load and I am hitting the high 90's. Hit 105 at one point. But my EGT's at the same point never got over 300.

With the ZD30, my water temp was always under the 95 mark, but I struggled to keep under 600 on the EGT,s.

Obviously still a learning curve from this perspective.

Fuel did take a hit today but I expected it. Have not filled up yet to find the final figure but I expect it still to be under what I would have been with the ZD30.

I think I am happy with my decision. Unfortunately I have nothing other than the original engine to compare against and this is really not a comparison.

Actually, yes I am happy with my decision. With age I have moved away from the hard core technical stuff and now need a competent tourer. I think in keeping the body I know and like and putting the bigger engine I am ahead of where I was.
time will tell.

Kindest regards
Rainey


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[MB]

Great news Rainsey :-)
I'm starting to learn from the blokes on here and abroad that bigger oil coolers maybe could be good future summer idea options and engine bay heat release vents when under heavy loads too!
Wouldn't stress too hard about your current water temp readings in winter. I've had mine up around 115D shortly heavy hauling to Adelaide in 50km head winds and she didn't pop :-) (note;good HT coolants used)
Some yanky forums I've 'read only' reckon they'll handle up to 125D but I'm sticking with this blokes advice of 99D max for longevity :-)
http://www.heathdiesel.com

[rainsey]

MB,

Thanks for the post. Very informative. I am a bit hyper sensitive of engine temps due to the probs with the ZD30. Sure I warped an exhaust manifold when towing up mount ousley near Wollongong last year. Was on 2nd gear, doing 30km/hr just trying to keep my EGT's below 650.

What was interesting was the old engine I sent to Simms metal. The exhaust port from the Turbo had a massive exhaust leak. Interesting as to to post engine replacement forensics... Shows some interesting info.

No doubt the Chev can cater for higher temps. It heritage has to take this into account.

As I said, it is a big learning curve at the moment. Stay tuned for more updates if it does not bore the recipients.

Kindest regards
Rainey


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[MB]

Cheers Rainsey,
I'm learning 6.5s too mate :-)
The yanks have some very interesting reads, mind you their population has 10x the nuffy's so please do take mine and their posts with an open mind ;-)

[PeeBee]

Guys I am a new-comer to the forum and have been reading thru the previous posts with interest. I am a month away from getting my 6.5 optimiser n/a conversion back from Brunswick. I have however already started to plan the installation of either an additional oil cooler or a fan cooled unit, plus have selected a couple of bonnet vents for heat removal.
I read some interesting history regards the effectiveness or otherwise of bonnet scoops and decided since hot air rises and air is being forced into the front of the engine bay already it's counterproductive to change its direction.
I am also looking out for comment regards the effectiveness of the standard safari snorkel on the 6.5. Mine is fitted with the 76mm inlet and ram head. I have a small Donaldson dust spinner however the literature suggests I need a unit to handle at least 300cfm, and the little one won't. Also as I suspected this style is suited more sor statioary plant than 100kph travel - what are your thoughts? I don' t know if my conversion will come with the Donaldson under bonnet canister or the other washable style element - having a brain freeze and totally forgotten the brand - expensive but good. I guess as I wait for the toy to return my planning juices start to run amuck. PHIL

[PeeBee]

For clarity I am installing bonnet vents sourced off eBay- located towards the rear of the bonnet on the sides in the belief it will drag the hot air away from the batteries at least.

[PeeBee]

K&n air filter is the one I was thinking about.

[rainsey]

Hi, just a question, why the NA engine and not the turbo?


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[PeeBee]

Hi, just a question, why the NA engine and not the turbo?


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Turbo wasn't recommended for the GQ due to the issues of cooling. I also don't have a requirement for heavy towing. If I need more HP/torque in the future I will bolt on a Supercharger.

[peterc99]

Hi all, new to this forum. I know what rainsey means re some other forums and the Chev 6.5 conversion. My 98 GU petrol now has the 6.5 Optimiser with turbo and intercooler, engine oil cooler, purpose built radiator and K&N airbox and filter - great conversion. Coolant temp probe in the upper return hose - cruising around 80 deg, climbing with trailer (1000Kg) up to 105deg - which is not a problem for this engine, EGTs never over 300deg. If further info would be helpful to other forum members I would be happy to assist.

[PeeBee]

Hi all, new to this forum. I know what rainsey means re some other forums and the Chev 6.5 conversion. My 98 GU petrol now has the 6.5 Optimiser with turbo and intercooler, engine oil cooler, purpose built radiator and K&N airbox and filter - great conversion. Coolant temp probe in the upper return hose - cruising around 80 deg, climbing with trailer (1000Kg) up to 105deg - which is not a problem for this engine, EGTs never over 300deg. If further info would be helpful to other forum members I would be happy to assist.

Peter, I am keen to find out the details on your oil cooler, where its located and its size. My rig is supplied with a cooler however I am looking for a conservative solution to oil temperature control, and without having driven the vehicle can only be guided by owners themselves. I am looking into increasing the oil capacity also, possibly by using a a second oil cooler - location to be decided.
I am also keen to know if you are running a snorkle and if so, what size is it - diameter? I have a 76mm dia inlet safari snorkle and am considering an upgrade to a 4" unit based on some comments relating to airflow restriction.
Thanks Phil

[rainsey]

I get the same temperature readings as Peter. I find with the engine that it takes a while to get up to temp, will on general cruising around town sit on the 75 to 80 mark, but it is very fast on the temperature uptake. Towing my camper up the Wattagans on the weekend I hit the 100 degree Mark quite to my surprise.
As Peter, my EGTS never really go over 300 either.

I run a standard Safari snorkel and was also considering the 4" to replace it from Millweld. My only gripe with the whole conversion was that my nice mandrel bent exhaust has been replaced with a relatively sub standard 3" with quite tight bends. This is something that I want to look at when time and money is available. Am thinking a trip up to Bauedesert to a custom job done.

Let me know if you do go with the 4" snorkel, interesting if there is any benefit.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[MB]

I too have been saving up to get up to Mansfield to see Mill for some of his ripper products. I'm also still running a standard Safari on my n/a, here's a pic below of some of his work with 4" stainless on a 6.5 in WA just test driven, Cheers Kimbo ;-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/92.jpg
Really keen on purchasing one of these bars he does too, reckon my twin oil cooler out front concept should work well behind these holes in the bar.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/93.jpg
As mentioned previously in another post, I've already bought some cheap SAAS scoops and had them baked to matching 531 k of which I believe when mounted backwards should in theory allow the heat out of the engine bay.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/94.jpg
Here's a Jeep with a similar reverse scoop setup theory off Google
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/95.jpg
Like I said, all theory and I'm no mechanic but we'll see how it all goes hopefully over summer, right now it's freezing here and I'm running ACDelco 88D thermostats nice and cozy ;-)


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[PeeBee]

I too have been saving up to get up to Mansfield to see Mill for some of his ripper products. I'm also still running a standard Safari on my n/a, here's a pic below of some of his work with 4" stainless on a 6.5 in WA just test driven, Cheers Kimbo ;-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/92.jpg
Really keen on purchasing one of these bars he does too, reckon my twin oil cooler out front concept should work well behind these holes in the bar.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/93.jpg
As mentioned previously in another post, I've already bought some cheap SAAS scoops and had them baked to matching 531 k of which I believe when mounted backwards should in theory allow the heat out of the engine bay.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/94.jpg
Here's a Jeep with a similar reverse scoop setup theory off Google
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/09/95.jpg
Like I said, all theory and I'm no mechanic but we'll see how it all goes hopefully over summer, right now it's freezing here and I'm running ACDelco 88D thermostats nice and cozy ;-)


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MB, I think the concept with the rear facing scoop/vent is sound. The vents I have chosen are like a sawtooth and sit into the bonnet. I read the results of positive and negative pressure indication at various speed and think a simple thru vent proposition is the way to go. I am a little disappointed in hearing about your assessment with the exhaust. I was speaking with BD today as they are putting the engine/gearbox into the car tomorrow, then onto the exhaust. The aircon compressor apparently was showing signs of wear so it was replaced today as well. I will wait and see how the standard snorkle goes then most likely upgrade to the 4" next year. I think there is a similar unit sold by patrolapart that matches the standard hole of the safari, just needs to be widened. Quality looks good also. I think I will be looking at a couple of single and double pass aluminium finned heat exchangers for my aux. coolers, however will need to think hard about where they go regards protection and airflow.

[PeeBee]

Rainsey, does the Millweld snorkle enter thru the same hole as the safari? I might have a look at that one as well as the Patrolapart one. I will see about the exhaust down the track, however i probably only do 2000klm/yr in this vehicle and it might not be an issue for me straight away. If I go the supercharger I will certainly look at an upgrade.

Phil

[rainsey]

Rainsey, does the Millweld snorkle enter thru the same hole as the safari? I might have a look at that one as well as the Patrolapart one. I will see about the exhaust down the track, however i probably only do 2000klm/yr in this vehicle and it might not be an issue for me straight away. If I go the supercharger I will certainly look at an upgrade.

Phil

Don't actually know, I am making a guess that it might but there will still be the holes that bolts of the Safari go through.


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[MB]

MB, I think the concept with the rear facing scoop/vent is sound. The vents I have chosen are like a sawtooth and sit into the bonnet. I read the results of positive and negative pressure indication at various speed and think a simple thru vent proposition is the way to go. I am a little disappointed in hearing about your assessment with the exhaust. I was speaking with BD today as they are putting the engine/gearbox into the car tomorrow, then onto the exhaust. The aircon compressor apparently was showing signs of wear so it was replaced today as well. I will wait and see how the standard snorkle goes then most likely upgrade to the 4" next year. I think there is a similar unit sold by patrolapart that matches the standard hole of the safari, just needs to be widened. Quality looks good also. I think I will be looking at a couple of single and double pass aluminium finned heat exchangers for my aux. coolers, however will need to think hard about where they go regards protection and airflow.

G'devening Phil,
Cheers for the confirmation of reverse scoop concept, as mentioned in our other thread discussion, installers be aware of each state laws on this theory ;-)
Have personally had previous experience with bonnet top 'gills' on old FJ40 / 350 dizzy's and found they flood the bay when bowing/crossing under deep. Have been contemplating an old school choke cable/flap setup on the reversed SAAS cheapies to ease this issue although I'm diesel since 2005 so rock on :-)
Exhaust issues you've mentioned above weren't my post :-) Rainsey mate I believe?
Oil coolers out front, I hear you in regards protection of them, have had a single on an old FJ55 'up' open and out there, did work very well but stayed away from off track scrub antics as always ;-)
Not sure which model 'charger' you're looking at for the future but please do be aware that the Harrop's 1900&2300's if V belt driven have a longer neck so the bonnet scoop concept needs to move into SLR Torrana territory for the pulley :-)



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[AB]

Rainsey, does the Millweld snorkle enter thru the same hole as the safari? I might have a look at that one as well as the Patrolapart one. I will see about the exhaust down the track, however i probably only do 2000klm/yr in this vehicle and it might not be an issue for me straight away. If I go the supercharger I will certainly look at an upgrade. Phil If not I'm sure hoping little extra expense required he could accommodate though.

Thank god you two are here as MB has been going mad so kudos for you two sharing the chev love ;)

Very keen to hear the results on supercharger too!!!

[PeeBee]

If not I'm sure hoping little extra expense required he could accommodate though.

Thank god you two are here as MB has been going mad so kudos for you two sharing the chev love ;)

Very keen to hear the results on supercharger too!!!

MB, AB, thanks guys for the input and banter. I will take on board the 'gills concept regards water flooding. I used to get into the deep stuff until coming unstuck once after a very poor decision, and now treat water with a bit more respect. Having said that, bow waves and the like easily come up over the bonnet, so I will think harder on this. I checked out the Millweld website and they do fit the Safari dimension. What I liked about his work is the quality - welds buffed out and flap polished, as opposed to 'as welded'.

Regards the charger, yes I was considering the 1900, as this was the format recommended by Bullet Performance about 5yrs ago when I first started considering the engine swap. They didn't mention anything about a bonnet scoop the size of a torana - yuk, bloody yuk. Might have to question BD about this further or look at a scroll/snail style like a ProCharger, but again all guesswork right now. Enquired with BD today about fitting a second alternator and did they have brackets, but the response was in line with 'not enough room, good luck trying!'.There are a pile of after market brackets avail on the net, so will just wait and see what room I have avail.

[PeeBee]

Rainsey, looks like the 'big hole' will match as you need to specify exactly what snorkle you have or have not got, however there will likely be some holes requiring rubber grommets i guess. Quality looks very good for sure.

[gubigfish]

The Millweld 4" snorkel requires an almost L shaped cut out of the guard. I had a Nissan snorkel before fitting my Millweld and it required large amounts of panel surgery. Also if you are going for one with a RAM head the RAM is not a 4" rather 3" and sits inside the stainless pipe. See below for the difference.

69064

I should also mention I believe just about all 4" snorkel require large amounts of panel surgery just depends on the manufacturer and if they worked out a better design that requires less.

[nissannewby]

Oh 6.5 chevs......

Do you still remember some of the ideas we gave you when we were down there MB ?

[nissannewby]

The Millweld 4" snorkel requires an almost L shaped cut out of the guard. I had a Nissan snorkel before fitting my Millweld and it required large amounts of panel surgery. Also if you are going for one with a RAM head the RAM is not a 4" rather 3" and sits inside the stainless pipe. See below for the difference.

69064

I should also mention I believe just about all 4" snorkel require large amounts of panel surgery just depends on the manufacturer and if they worked out a better design that requires less.

Kind of defeats the major point of a ram head putting it inside the pipe....

[Kimbo63]

[QUOTE=gubigfish;696109]The Millweld 4" snorkel requires an almost L shaped cut out of the guard. I had a Nissan snorkel before fitting my Millweld and it required large amounts of panel surgery. Also if you are going for one with a RAM head the RAM is not a 4" rather 3" and sits inside the stainless pipe. See below for the difference.

69064

Hi Fish you will find that there is two types of millweld snorkels one like yourself sits more flush than mine in photo above I only had to cut a pear shaped hole in my guard

[MB]

Oh 6.5 chevs...... Do you still remember some of the ideas we gave you when we were down there MB ?
Maybe stubborn, most definitely forgot :-( Twas midnight on the second night of meetup Mr NNB :-) I believe we were all tired until the the 4.2TD12mm Borg test run ;-)
I'm still apologising to neighbours for your rally expertise ;-)

[peterc99]

Hi Phil and Rainsey, firstly the oil cooler fitted with the conversion sits on the under side floor next to the chassis rail on the passenger side - so far I don't feel there are any issues with oil capacity. I have a standard Safari snorkel - the engine seems to have enough "air", just keep the K&N oiled filter serviced regularly. I agree with the comment on the "ordinary" exhaust - now have a 3" mandrel bent system from a reputable muffler shop in Liverpool. If you have a Garrett turbo and you feel that the boost is coming in too late, a 0.63 a/r on the exhaust side will fix it - spinning up nicely at around 1400- 1600 rpm - boost now up to 16psi. Hope this is helpful.

regards

Peter

[rainsey]

Hi Phil and Rainsey, firstly the oil cooler fitted with the conversion sits on the under side floor next to the chassis rail on the passenger side - so far I don't feel there are any issues with oil capacity. I have a standard Safari snorkel - the engine seems to have enough "air", just keep the K&N oiled filter serviced regularly. I agree with the comment on the "ordinary" exhaust - now have a 3" mandrel bent system from a reputable muffler shop in Liverpool. If you have a Garrett turbo and you feel that the boost is coming in too late, a 0.63 a/r on the exhaust side will fix it - spinning up nicely at around 1400- 1600 rpm - boost now up to 16psi. Hope this is helpful.

regards

Peter

Peter,

Thanks for the info. But ... Just for the dummies ( me that is) what is a 0.63 a/r?

I'm sure I need one .... The fact that I asking what it is means I need one.... But to get one I need to know what one is?

Kindest Regards
Rainsey


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[rainsey]

Also, latest fuel economy figures ...

Took the truck and TVAN up to the Wattagans via Ourimbah State Forrest. Did not hold back on the right foot and at times forgot the camper was behind me. Up some pretty steep terrain in low range ....

Filled up, post off road with about 200Km of on road .. 16.77l/100Km.

Currently averaging 15.35l/100Km. I am over the moon. Typically after or during towing the camper with the ZD30 I am up in the 18 to 20's. Mate of mine has a 100 series, albeit pretty pimped, and he averages around town in the mid 16's.

Yeah baby... I do not think I am going to look back with this conversion. For those on other forums, no it is not a Duramax or a Cummins and it is definitely not a speedster but it ticks the boxes that I was after.

Kindest regards
Rainsey

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[gubigfish]

Kind of defeats the major point of a ram head putting it inside the pipe....

Sure does I don't know why they supply a 4" snorkel with that small a RAM head, especially when the one I purchased was easily gettable from a number of sources.

[MB]

Sure does I don't know why they supply a 4" snorkel with that small a RAM head, especially when the one I purchased was easily gettable from a number of sources.
Please do take care GUbigfish.
Our wagon with an inferior "I believe" 'Airtec' has approx 5mm 'back drain' and has experienced blockage in torrential rain problems. My utes 'Safari' has I guesstimate 15mm of free vortex? never a drama :-) !!

[the evil twin]

Also, latest fuel economy figures ...

Took the truck and TVAN up to the Wattagans via Ourimbah State Forrest. Did not hold back on the right foot and at times forgot the camper was behind me. Up some pretty steep terrain in low range ....

Filled up, post off road with about 200Km of on road .. 16.77l/100Km.

Currently averaging 15.35l/100Km. I am over the moon. Typically after or during towing the camper with the ZD30 I am up in the 18 to 20's. Mate of mine has a 100 series, albeit pretty pimped, and he averages around town in the mid 16's.

Yeah baby... I do not think I am going to look back with this conversion. For those on other forums, no it is not a Duramax or a Cummins and it is definitely not a speedster but it ticks the boxes that I was after.

Kindest regards
Rainsey

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I think I hate you... nah, just joking.

I'm not getting anything like that but then again my gearbox is a 4L85 Auto, my Van is around 2 tons and most of my figures were with 35's.
Bottom line is that I don't really care as the the vehicle is what it is.
Agree the 6.5 has to be one of the slowest revving engines ever produced but, meah, thems the breaks.

[gubigfish]

Please do take care GUbigfish.
Our wagon with an inferior "I believe" 'Airtec' has approx 5mm 'back drain' and has experienced blockage in torrential rain problems. My utes 'Safari' has I guesstimate 15mm of free vortex? never a drama :-) !!

Thanks MB all good, bought a Donaldson one to replace the one supplied by millweld http://www.westernfilters.net.au/4-Air-raminlet-102mm-4/

[rainsey]

I think I hate you... nah, just joking.

I'm not getting anything like that but then again my gearbox is a 4L85 Auto, my Van is around 2 tons and most of my figures were with 35's.
Bottom line is that I don't really care as the the vehicle is what it is.
Agree the 6.5 has to be one of the slowest revving engines ever produced but, meah, thems the breaks.

Ha ha ... I'll send you a photo of me to put on your dart board :)
My camper just hits over the tonne and I am running 33's. Was considering the Auto before the conversion ... Could not afford it. Now I have the conversion, sort of happy that I was broke. I can still se the advantage though of running the auto.

What I have noticed though, with the lower ratios that Brunswick put in, sitting in traffic is substantially nicer than re upgrade.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[peterc99]

Hi Rainsey

The exhaust side (drive side) of the turbo - mine was originally 0.84 a/r and a bit slow to spin up. Check which make and model turbo you have and speak to the technical boys at MTQ, they should be able to assist you.

regards

Peter

[rainsey]

Hi Rainsey

The exhaust side (drive side) of the turbo - mine was originally 0.84 a/r and a bit slow to spin up. Check which make and model turbo you have and speak to the technical boys at MTQ, they should be able to assist you.

regards

Peter
Sorry, treat me like a dummy ... What is 0.84 a/r .

Cheers
Rainsey


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[nissannewby]

Sorry, treat me like a dummy ... What is 0.84 a/r .

Cheers
Rainsey


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A/R- Aspect ratio of a housing attached to the turbo.

Peter has changed his turbine housing.

Its the way they measure the size of the housing. Generally the smaller the number the quicker it will respond but will be restrictive in higher rpm due to not being able to flow enough.

I would be inclined to leave a 0.84ar turbine housing on a chev fitted with an auto.

Ultimately I would bin the garrett and put a borg warner turbo on it instead.

[MB]

Thanks MB all good, bought a Donaldson one to replace the one supplied by millweld http://www.westernfilters.net.au/4-Air-raminlet-102mm-4/
Wow, that's a serious ram head, should do the trick mate :-)
Out of interest, most blokes seem to be running the K&N type boxes whereas mine has the Donaldson canister type. I'm not unhappy with it, quite agricultural and easy to swap out, just they're around $30 a pop :-(
What are you running in yours GUbigfish?
Cheers mate !

[rainsey]

Hey thanks for the info on the snorkel heads. This definitely looks like the go.

Question to everyone out there with the 6.5 .... what sort of temps are you running. With the old ZD30 I would sit at 90 to 92 degrees and it would be rock solid. I am finding with the 6.5 that driving around town I am typically sitting in the mid 80's, but the slightest hill, or if off road when in low going up a relatively steep hill I am going over the 100 to 110 mark.

I am sure that the engine has no issues with this but with the mother of a radiator that BD put in, I am amazed that the temps seem to go up so high. Is this the norm??

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[gubigfish]

Wow, that's a serious ram head, should do the trick mate :-)
Out of interest, most blokes seem to be running the K&N type boxes whereas mine has the Donaldson canister type. I'm not unhappy with it, quite agricultural and easy to swap out, just they're around $30 a pop :-(
What are you running in yours GUbigfish?
Cheers mate !

I don't have a chev mate just the ole 4.2TDi currently running the factory airbox but will be upgrading to a fatz fab 4" in/out once I have the coin for it and a new 18G turbo, although could be tempted into a borg warner after seeing what AB's was doing when it was running.

[AB]

I don't have a chev mate just the ole 4.2TDi currently running the factory airbox but will be upgrading to a fatz fab 4" in/out once I have the coin for it and a new 18G turbo, although could be tempted into a borg warner after seeing what AB's was doing when it was running. Is running "is"....lol. No past tense please!

New turbo will be on this weekend!

[peterc99]

Hi Rainsey

Re coolant temps - where is your temperature probe located? Maybe remove the probe and test in a container with boiling water and a mercury thermometer the check the readings.

regards
Peter

[MB]

Hey thanks for the info on the snorkel heads. This definitely looks like the go.

Question to everyone out there with the 6.5 .... what sort of temps are you running. With the old ZD30 I would sit at 90 to 92 degrees and it would be rock solid. I am finding with the 6.5 that driving around town I am typically sitting in the mid 80's, but the slightest hill, or if off road when in low going up a relatively steep hill I am going over the 100 to 110 mark.

I am sure that the engine has no issues with this but with the mother of a radiator that BD put in, I am amazed that the temps seem to go up so high. Is this the norm??

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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G'day Rainsey,
Those temps were the norm for me, last summer pre GM-ACDelco TS's. Can't advise true tests for another few months sorry.
Having owned a 3.0L Trol also, not sure if comparing temps is going to help you sleep old mate. Top query for all, I certainly haven't worked it out yet either. Cooling of modified truck/donks has huge questions and each and everysetup appears to be different:

1) Do you have grill/radiator free flow, and or giant spotty's like I had with a wind blocking BBQ plate bulbar also?

2) What temp thermostats did they install and what is your climate now ?

3) Was it fitted out with an oil cooler, where'sabouts and guesstimated size?

4) Is yours a 'V' belt or 'Serpentine' , water pumps differ I have read ?

5) Without scrolling back here, I believe you have a turbo too (lucky bugger) although how close does the 'V8' crossover pipe come to the sump maybe?

6) I'm running out of theory's:-)

Cheers Mb


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[Kimbo63]

Good read here in post #10 on cooling system facts

http://www.gmc4x4.com/topic/1809-gmdetroit-6265-turbo-diesel-performance-toolbox/
rainsey
@MB

[MB]

Thanks heaps Kimbo !
I'll find some time today to absorb this info, awesome mate!!

[rainsey]

Hi Rainsey

Re coolant temps - where is your temperature probe located? Maybe remove the probe and test in a container with boiling water and a mercury thermometer the check the readings.

regards
Peter

Hmm.. no idea. Have not actually looked since getting the truck back.

I am not questioning the accuracy as I think the average temps are probably spot on, I'm more concerned re the quick rise, but testing it would not hurt.

Thanks for the info


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[PeeBee]

G'devening Phil,
Cheers for the confirmation of reverse scoop concept, as mentioned in our other thread discussion, installers be aware of each state laws on this theory ;-)
Have personally had previous experience with bonnet top 'gills' on old FJ40 / 350 dizzy's and found they flood the bay when bowing/crossing under deep. Have been contemplating an old school choke cable/flap setup on the reversed SAAS cheapies to ease this issue although I'm diesel since 2005 so rock on :-)
Exhaust issues you've mentioned above weren't my post :-) Rainsey mate I believe?
Oil coolers out front, I hear you in regards protection of them, have had a single on an old FJ55 'up' open and out there, did work very well but stayed away from off track scrub antics as always ;-)
Not sure which model 'charger' you're looking at for the future but please do be aware that the Harrop's 1900&2300's if V belt driven have a longer neck so the bonnet scoop concept needs to move into SLR Torrana territory for the pulley :-)



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First photos of engine in position - looks a big mess right now, and I am sure the poor mechanic is pulling his hair out with my wiring! Greg at BD reckons the vehicle will be on the road by the weekend and ready to ship mid next week, so now its 'wait for Santa time'. Can't wait to get it back. I will be doing some stripping of radio's and stuff bolted to the cargo barrier, plus swapping the Recaro and Bostrum base over to the original Nissan bucket for the Eng Certificate process. 691196912069121

[peterc99]

Hi Rainsey

Have been offline for a couple of days. As far as I am aware BD are fitting the same custom radiator to all the Nissans (my engine upgrade was in April 2014). Were you advised to completely drain and change your coolant within the first 5000klm? My engine runs a serpentine belt, not sure what temp the thermostat is - I will have to ask Greg. The original Nissan temp gauge (a bit useless) is connected to the engine block sensor, I fitted a Redarc gauge and temp sensor to the upper return radiator hose. The new exhaust turbine housing on the Garrett turbo seems great - goood acceleration, improved hill climb ability - so far rev range is good, have done just over 600ks with fuel usage averaging 15.2l per 100klm (truck weighs 3400kgs with fuel, driver and passenger).

regards
Peter

[rainsey]

G'day Rainsey,
Those temps were the norm for me, last summer pre GM-ACDelco TS's. Can't advise true tests for another few months sorry.
Having owned a 3.0L Trol also, not sure if comparing temps is going to help you sleep old mate. Top query for all, I certainly haven't worked it out yet either. Cooling of modified truck/donks has huge questions and each and everysetup appears to be different:

1) Do you have grill/radiator free flow, and or giant spotty's like I had with a wind blocking BBQ plate bulbar also?

2) What temp thermostats did they install and what is your climate now ?

3) Was it fitted out with an oil cooler, where'sabouts and guesstimated size?

4) Is yours a 'V' belt or 'Serpentine' , water pumps differ I have read ?

5) Without scrolling back here, I believe you have a turbo too (lucky bugger) although how close does the 'V8' crossover pipe come to the sump maybe?

6) I'm running out of theory's:-)

Cheers Mb


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Hey, thanks for the info. In regards to your questions:-

1: Yep Im running some large spotties and the winch solenoid box is also on the front as well.

2: Thermostats, not sure but the ambit temp outside when I was getting these spikes was around the 20 degree mark according to my outside gauge. This has been what has spured on this conversation as I am sort of concerned what happens when the outside temp hits the 40's.

3: Yep I have an oil cooler its about 200mm square and located in front of the radiator on the drivers side.

4: Serpentine

5: Yep a turbo and the cross over probably sits around 40mm from the sump.

My thought is the amount of 'stuff' between the outside air and the actual radiator. If you visualize the radiator, in front of this I have an air conditioning condenser that takes up the same surface area, then in front of this an oil cooler and then in front of this what I think might be a cooler for the power steering.

Oh, and one electric fan on the passengers side of all of this.

Then ..... all of the bull bar mounted crap.

Cheers

Rainsey


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[the evil twin]

Hey, thanks for the info. In regards to your questions:-

1: Yep Im running some large spotties and the winch solenoid box is also on the front as well.

2: Thermostats, not sure but the ambit temp outside when I was getting these spikes was around the 20 degree mark according to my outside gauge. This has been what has spured on this conversation as I am sort of concerned what happens when the outside temp hits the 40's.

3: Yep I have an oil cooler its about 200mm square and located in front of the radiator on the drivers side.

4: Serpentine

5: Yep a turbo and the cross over probably sits around 40mm from the sump.

My thought is the amount of 'stuff' between the outside air and the actual radiator. If you visualize the radiator, in front of this I have an air conditioning condenser that takes up the same surface area, then in front of this an oil cooler and then in front of this what I think might be a cooler for the power steering.

Oh, and one electric fan on the passengers side of all of this.

Then ..... all of the bull bar mounted crap.

Cheers

Rainsey


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That is pretty much exactly my setup (no winch solenoid)... my auto tranny (4L85) coolers are under my tray.

I have a temp watchdog on the engine and the tranny.

FWIW I have wired the factory A/C fan so I can turn it on if the engine temp gets too hot for my liking IE so it is back to the same as factory setup.

You will find that 90% of the Chev conversions do not have the coolant temp switch (that turned the A/C fan on) in the 'new' radiator (bottom drivers side) so if you have a look you should find an 'unused' plug tucked away down there.

NB - the elec A/C fan won't do squat above about 70 to 80 KPH but does make a difference below 50 ish on the gauges

[rainsey]

Hi Rainsey

Have been offline for a couple of days. As far as I am aware BD are fitting the same custom radiator to all the Nissans (my engine upgrade was in April 2014). Were you advised to completely drain and change your coolant within the first 5000klm? My engine runs a serpentine belt, not sure what temp the thermostat is - I will have to ask Greg. The original Nissan temp gauge (a bit useless) is connected to the engine block sensor, I fitted a Redarc gauge and temp sensor to the upper return radiator hose. The new exhaust turbine housing on the Garrett turbo seems great - goood acceleration, improved hill climb ability - so far rev range is good, have done just over 600ks with fuel usage averaging 15.2l per 100klm (truck weighs 3400kgs with fuel, driver and passenger).

regards
Peter

Hey Peter, thanks for the feedback. I am sure that the radiator I have is the same that they have been putting in for yonks, but no, I had no information regarding changing my coolant in the 1st 5000km, this is not to say it is not written in the service book I got... that I will check.

I don't even look at my nissan temp gauge but rather still kept my Scanguage in place and use it as my Speedo, water temp and volt meter. I have a an Altron ( now owned by Redarc) Boost / oil pressure gauge with the third digital display being my outside temp. I was considering getting the engine temp sensor for it and doing away with the outside.

Part of the reason for keeping the Scanguage is that my Speedo is out to buggery but the Scanguage still reads spot on when compared to a GPS so I am using it instead of my factory speedo. Interestingly, my odometer is spot on.

Your fuel figures are close to mine so that makes me happy. Will investigate the turbo but, this is interesting.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[peterc99]

Hi Rainsey, seems strange your speedo is out but odometer is correct, have checked mine against GPS - all OK.
One Redarc gauge for oil pressure, coolant temp and temp probe on the top of the intercooler where I have fitted a thermatic fan to help bring the temps down on slow going tracks - no use when speed is above 50kph.
Regarding your coolant temps try blocking the gaps around the front edges - sides and top of your radiator (Clark Rubber) I found it did make a difference, also as mentioned in previous responses large driving lights and winch control boxes will impede air flow dramatically. If you are down my way some time we could meet up and compare notes.

regards

Peter

[rainsey]

Hi Rainsey, seems strange your speedo is out but odometer is correct, have checked mine against GPS - all OK.
One Redarc gauge for oil pressure, coolant temp and temp probe on the top of the intercooler where I have fitted a thermatic fan to help bring the temps down on slow going tracks - no use when speed is above 50kph.
Regarding your coolant temps try blocking the gaps around the front edges - sides and top of your radiator (Clark Rubber) I found it did make a difference, also as mentioned in previous responses large driving lights and winch control boxes will impede air flow dramatically. If you are down my way some time we could meet up and compare notes.

regards

Peter

Re the speedo / odometer, yep ... your comment of strange is my thought as well. It has always been the case. Years back when I moved to running 33" tyres, I built a speedo calibration unit to modify the duty cycle of the sensor ( Jaycar unit). Now it worked fine in getting the speedo spot on and it was at this time that I found the odometer was incorrect.

Now the speedo and odometer are working off the same signal so my thought would be that the calibration unit was not the cause of the inconsistency. So in the aim of wanting accurate distance measurements for fuel economy purposes I opted to calibrate to an accurate odometer and forgo the wacky speedo. I use the Scanguage that I use as my accurate speedo. GPS measurements have confirmed the accuracy of the Scanguage and the odometer. One day I must look at finding out why.

Re your comment on the intercooler fan, this is something I want to do. I assume you have a stock BD intercooler?? What fan did you use and how did you mount it?

Re the radiator, yep, I am keen to do this. When my ZD 30 radiator crapped itself and Natrad put a new one in, there was foam all around it. I noticed that this was not done with the BD radiator.

So ... what part of the world are you in??

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[peterc99]

Hi Rainsey, the thermo fan is 240mm dia (ebay) and mounted on top of the intercooler, when BD were fitting the engine I asked for a larger air scoop (the truck was originally a 4.5 petrol, no scoop) so the fan fits nicely inside the scoop housing with enough space for air flow for normal driving. Living on the south coast, Shoalhaven, but travelling whenever possible.

regards

Peter

[the evil twin]

snip... Re the speedo / odometer, yep ... your comment of strange is my thought as well.

Your speedo and odo should be different.
The reason is that the manuf tries to set the Odo as accurate within +/- x%
But, by ADR requirement the Speedo is not allowed to underread IE has to be accurate within -0% to +10% of reading + 4KPH
Bottom line is over a given distance ex factory ratios and tyres the Odo is normally very close and the Speedo overreads by around 4 to 5 KPH

[rainsey]

Your speedo and odo should be different.
The reason is that the manuf tries to set the Odo as accurate within +/- x%
But, by ADR requirement the Speedo is not allowed to underread IE has to be accurate within -0% to +10% of reading + 4KPH
Bottom line is over a given distance ex factory ratios and tyres the Odo is normally very close and the Speedo overreads by around 4 to 5 KPH

Well bugger me.. and here I have been thinking I have some weird problem. Regardless, the signal is from the same source so if the source is changed, both odometer and speedo change .... I assume!

Ill take note on Monday when I am cursing p the freeway what my Speedo reads when I am on 110km. Pretty sure it is out but more that 5KPH.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[rainsey]

Hi Rainsey, the thermo fan is 240mm dia (ebay) and mounted on top of the intercooler, when BD were fitting the engine I asked for a larger air scoop (the truck was originally a 4.5 petrol, no scoop) so the fan fits nicely inside the scoop housing with enough space for air flow for normal driving. Living on the south coast, Shoalhaven, but travelling whenever possible.

regards

Peter

Sweet, thanks for that info. I am up at Gosford North of Sydney. Periodically cruise down your way so will drop you a PM next time Im heading that way. Likewise drop me a line if you are up this way.

Cheers

Rainsey


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[the evil twin]

Well bugger me.. and here I have been thinking I have some weird problem. Regardless, the signal is from the same source so if the source is changed, both odometer and speedo change .... I assume!

Ill take note on Monday when I am cursing p the freeway what my Speedo reads when I am on 110km. Pretty sure it is out but more that 5KPH.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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At 110 KPH actual (with factory ratios and tyres) to comply with ADRs your Speedo should indicate somewhere between between 110 and 125 KPH
IE... 110 (not allowed to underread) and 125 KPH (allowed to overread by 4 KPH plus 10% of actual speed so another 11 KPH).

As you say, quite correctly, the speedo and the Odo have the same sensor but are two seperate 'displays' and the two displays are set almost always set up slightly differently at the factory.

If you change your tyres by say 7% in size it will affect both Speedo and Odo the same amount because, as you say, the sensor is common to both
Sama sama if you change ratios.

Lots of people think that the Speedo and Odo have the same error IE they check speed against GPS and if it is say 10% out then the Odo as out 10% well.
On rare occasions it will be... but... it is much more common for the Speedo to overread the Odo.

Disclaimer - the above is not applicable to mechanical speedos (cable driven) or electronic Speedos prior to the ADR changes

[rainsey]

Hey guys, not sure where else to ask these sort of questions .. sorry...

Does anyone know of a twin turbo setup on the 6.5 ?

Cheers
Rainsey



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[MB]

This bloke seems to know his chev's Rainsey
http://www.heathdiesel.com/gallery

[the evil twin]

Hey guys, not sure where else to ask these sort of questions .. sorry...

Does anyone know of a twin turbo setup on the 6.5 ?

Cheers
Rainsey



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Seen some on the Yank sites when browsing around... dunno if it is worth the hass

[PeeBee]

Guys, my conversion leaves BD on Monday heading for home. I would like to get some feedback pls on the following.

1) what brand and grade of engine oil are you using and also are you using any additives?

2) I have a Donaldson air filter Assyr fitted and have had zero luck finding a k&n equivalent - checked websites and sent k&n a note- so has anyone got a recommendation? I noticed a huge improvement in using the in over the factory Nissan paper unit in the 2.8. I will supply the part number later, but mine is the optimiser n/a crate engine, not the turbo version.

3) do any of you use either a 'water wetting agent re reduced friction or the waterless system? I am focused on outright performance and not cost.

Are there any things I should be focused on regards good practices for this engine?

Thanks phil

[MB]

G'day Phil, Please do focus on cooling the new beast down under load IMHO! We've got Yank donks that had original issues already yet we squeeze them into tiny Q's & U's & Yoda's. Some blokes up FNQ have received descent sized oil coolers to solve their experiences, I believe have read ?

[peterc99]

Hi Phil, I'm using Penrite HPR Deisel semi synthetic 15-50 with no need to top up between 5K oil changes, used about 400ml on 11k round trip to the Cape. Re coolant, I have only used Nulon concentrate mixing 50/50 with demineralised water, for max air flow block the sides and top of your radiator, as mentioned previously large spotties and winch control box in front of your grille will make a difference to air flow. Good luck with the new donk, let us know how it goes.

regards

Peter

[PeeBee]

Hi Phil, I'm using Penrite HPR Deisel semi synthetic 15-50 with no need to top up between 5K oil changes, used about 400ml on 11k round trip to the Cape. Re coolant, I have only used Nulon concentrate mixing 50/50 with demineralised water, for max air flow block the sides and top of your radiator, as mentioned previously large spotties and winch control box in front of your grille will make a difference to air flow. Good luck with the new donk, let us know how it goes.

regards

Peter

Thanks Peter,
vehicle held up another day due to an employee calling in sick and the speedo correction module needed to be fitted - just life I guess and I am not too wound up as I know its only 10 days away once it leaves Bunbury tomorrow. Good info regards the oil and coolant - thanks. I am still trying to find the K&N equivalent filter and will let you know if I do. Its been a really good interchange with Greg at BD and he is certainly focused on the vehicle being 'right' before it leaves. The exhaust was reworked twice as he wasn't happy with the clearance on the PTO/hyd pump set-up I have for the front winch - and this is focus you want and are happy to pay for - I don't need a headache when the vehicle finally gets here.
Anyway, appreciate all the help and feedback from within the forum so far and will certainly keep you abreast of the developments.

[PeeBee]

G'day Phil, Please do focus on cooling the new beast down under load IMHO! We've got Yank donks that had original issues already yet we squeeze them into tiny Q's & U's & Yoda's. Some blokes up FNQ have received descent sized oil coolers to solve their experiences, I believe have read ?

MB, I have already worked out my plan for additional oil capacity and cooling, so will update once its completed - have to wait a little bit longer for the vehicle but its coming!

[PeeBee]

Guys,

response from K&N is they do not have a serviceable equivalent to the Donaldson filter used on the n/a motors.

Vehicle update is it leaves Bunbury this monday - faulty tacho stopped it leaving the shop this time. Anyway, at least it will be right.
Phil

[MB]

Cheers Phil,
Appreciate filter info mate!
Exciting times, your beast is coming back, happy days!

[rainsey]

Hi folks,

Whilst I am absolutely stoked with my new 6.5 Chev, I have a slight issue with an oil leak. Thought I would put it out there to see if any one may have any ideas.

Firstly I have to praise Brunswick as they have let me use my own mechanic over east and have been covering the cost as warranty.

The leak displays itself as oil dripping off the return to centre steering damper spring. We have traced the leak to be in out around the front main crank seal. So far we have :-
1: Replaced the front main crank seal.
2: replaced the water pump gasket
3: now today pulled the sump off and re sealed it.

I still have the leak. For the life of all of us, we cannot actually pin point the source of the oil. My only thought now is some excessive crank case pressure pushing oil out the main crank seal.

I don't particularly want to spend another 3 grand shipping the truck over to WA and back so I thought I would put it out there.. Anyone with a 6.5 had any very covert difficult to find oil leaks at the front of the engine?

Kindest regards
Rainsey



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[nissannewby]

Has the oil fill point been checked its sealing? Timing cover in front of the injection pump?

[rainsey]

Yeh,
The funny thing is that there is no splatter and no indication its coming from higer up the engine.

What makes it hard to fault fins is that the entire engine is gloss black. Bugger to find a oil sheen against. My mechanic keeps threatening to spay paint it mat grey so he can see any drips!


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[nissannewby]

where are you located again?

[Touses]

rainsey are you sure it is in fact an engine oil leak. Had trouble locating a stubborn leak in The Pig and turned out to be tiny split in a hose on power steering pump.
Mixed with crud, corruption and greasy bits it looked an awful lot like engine oil on the ground! Worth looking further about engine bay!

[MB]

G'day Rainsey, what a bugger mate!
I believe there is an old school trick to finding sneaky small oil leaks using talcum powder and following the snail trails to its source.
Hope it all works out for you mate, keep us all posted once you've found the bugger mate!
Cheers MB

[peterc99]

Hi Rainsey, its a pita for such a new conversion. What oil pressure are you seeing? The front crank seal on mine has been replaced recently (out of warranty) the crank appears to have a small groove worn into it, which means it will probably leak again.
Has anyone else had this problem on the 6.5 Optimiser?

Regards

Peter

[the evil twin]

rainsey are you sure it is in fact an engine oil leak. Had trouble locating a stubborn leak in The Pig and turned out to be tiny split in a hose on power steering pump.
Mixed with crud, corruption and greasy bits it looked an awful lot like engine oil on the ground! Worth looking further about engine bay!

Funny you mention that... the two leaks on my 6.5 were, 1 as you described, not engine at all but grotty power steering fluid... and 2 from the Turbo oil return.

[rainsey]

where are you located again?

Central Coast NSW


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[rainsey]

rainsey are you sure it is in fact an engine oil leak. Had trouble locating a stubborn leak in The Pig and turned out to be tiny split in a hose on power steering pump.
Mixed with crud, corruption and greasy bits it looked an awful lot like engine oil on the ground! Worth looking further about engine bay!

When the lack first displayed itself it looked like it was under the power steering pump.Was definitely not power steering fluid though. Definitely engine oil.

Thanks for the response.


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[rainsey]

Hi Rainsey, its a pita for such a new conversion. What oil pressure are you seeing? The front crank seal on mine has been replaced recently (out of warranty) the crank appears to have a small groove worn into it, which means it will probably leak again.
Has anyone else had this problem on the 6.5 Optimiser?

Regards

Peter

Peter,

Oil pressure on start up is around the 60 PSI on full operating temp, 10. The front crank seal was the first thing replaced. The surface on the crank is as pure as they come so this is not it.

Thanks heaps though for the info.


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[rainsey]

Has the oil fill point been checked its sealing? Timing cover in front of the injection pump?

Yep, all give the clean bill of health.

Ta heaps.


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[rainsey]

Totally different question. Any one put a hydraulic winch on their 6.5 using a separate hydraulic pump? Curious where the pump has been put.

Cheers
Rainsey


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[MB]

Don't know much about them Rainsey but these belt driven ones in QLD look pretty descent?
http://www.redwinchqld.com.au/categories/vehicle-hydraulics/9/
Personally sticking with electric down here just in case the donk is ever unfortunately swamped/dead I've still got batteries hopefully to haul to safer ground in theory.

[rainsey]

Don't know much about them Rainsey but these belt driven ones in QLD look pretty descent?
http://www.redwinchqld.com.au/categories/vehicle-hydraulics/9/
Personally sticking with electric down here just in case the donk is ever unfortunately swamped/dead I've still got batteries hopefully to haul to safer ground in theory.

Yeah, agree, but with the V8 I have lost my second battery under the bonnet and running the current Optima Yellow top does not give me a hell of a lot of A/hrs to play with.

Ive always likes the hydraulic winches and being that they only draw a couple of amps, you can winch all day, yes pending the engine is running.

Touch wood, I have never been in the predicament where I have not had a working engine but I have where winching became very slow and tedious so as to let the battery recover.

Also, and I do not know if the guy was feeding me a line but a TJM rep at the Sydney 4x4 show was telling me never to winch with my front e locker on as the battery draw can have detrimental effects on the locking mechanism when winching

Cheers

Rainsey




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[rainsey]

G'day Rainsey, what a bugger mate!
I believe there is an old school trick to finding sneaky small oil leaks using talcum powder and following the snail trails to its source.
Hope it all works out for you mate, keep us all posted once you've found the bugger mate!
Cheers MB

Speaking to my mechanic tonight and mentioned your talc idea. He liked it so is going to give it a go tomorrow :)

Stay tuned.


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[PeeBee]

Totally different question. Any one put a hydraulic winch on their 6.5 using a separate hydraulic pump? Curious where the pump has been put.

Cheers
Rainsey


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Rainsey,
I have a Milemarker 12000lb hydraulic winch thats re-rated to 15000lb by an increase in pump pressure, designed by Milemarker in the USA. i imported the winch and pump at the same time, probably 10 yrs ago - my build thread is on outerlimits4x4.com, under PBBIZ2.
The pump I selected was belt driven. I was not happy with the clutch style of drive as it only had to die and the game was over, so I went for a direct driven pulley and slipped the 'A' section pulley on and off as required.
The pump was typically run at circa 1500engine rpm and had a 50% speed increase via the pulley. I had a pulley machined to mount onto the crank puleey cia the 4 bolts. This worked very well and gve me reasonable recovery speed, however I was never in the need for speed - not comp focused. The winch on one occasion ran continuously for 11 hrs - yes, had to winch a full 1.5klm as the track was like oil and no friction at all have trwin lockers, marks 85% reduction case and muddies at 12psi - no friction.

Anyway, specifically to your question, i have now decided to go with a PTO gearbox drive off the gearbox and direct drive the pump. I don't know what recovery speeds I will achieve with this setup, but if its too slow I will simply change the pump. Te system requires a small reservoir - mine is about a liter and I have installed an oil cooler as well to keep the oil temps down. I have winched in 40degC and the oil never got above 55DegC using an IR thermometer. The specs on the pump and flowrates are on the build - sorry its such a long time ago regards the details and my brain just can't hold that stuff indefinitely!.

I have already fitted a warn 15000lb electric winch to the rear as a safeguard. I was thinking about going hydraulic again but figured I was unlikely going to have to do the sort of redicous pull that I did that crazy day heading backwards, plus it gave me some versatility. I used the rear electric to great effect recently in a recovery whilst snow driving, so it was worth the pain to fit.
Hope this helps. I am not allergic to the belt drive, just wanted a constantly coupled pump without the electrical interlink of the clutch.

[MB]

Speaking to my mechanic tonight and mentioned your talc idea. He liked it so is going to give it a go tomorrow :) Stay tuned. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Sounds good Rainsey!
It worked for my ex during my conjugal visits. Although flour was the chosen hygroscopic substance utilised :-) !
Please do keep us posted mate !!
Cheers MB

[rainsey]

Sounds good Rainsey!
It worked for my ex during my conjugal visits. Although flour was the chosen hygroscopic substance utilised :-) !
Please do keep us posted mate !!
Cheers MB

😂 love your work


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[PeeBee]

Well guys, my beast arrived back home last night. Wasn't with a bit of trauma from the transport mob, however some choice words and reminder of who is paying the bill resulted in the car arriving at 8pm. Here's where the excitement began because the car was sitting on the trailer with the driving lights on - nothin else. Guys drove it off and was moaning about being blinded all the way from Altona to Knox because the lights couldn't be turned off! Anyway, it was still light so i disconnected them and took it out for a quick squirt. Quick is probably not the best word, as you all know 1st is so short and the motor is tight and doesn't want to rev beyond 2500. But, it pulls like a train once it gets into 3rd and is 'peppy and toey' to say the least. The exhaust note is obvious but not intrusive when cruising - soon as you put the foot down you know its not a 2.8 under the bonnet!.
Spent the day sorting out the dual battery mounting and tidying up the wiring. Unsure how the PTO driven hydraulic pump is going to work as BD have mounted it upside down in order to clear the clutch slave cylinder. Nothin is leaking but the linkages are now on the bottom of the box, not the top, so will have to wait and see. Have to mount the difflock compressor and then the CTEK Dual battery system
One thing I noticed is the hand throttle is removed - is this normal on your vehicles? I would have preferred the option to activate a fast idle - maybe its not possible or simply easier to remove it - I have asked BD about it and will see what they come back with.
The build quality is really good, lots of small things sorted out. The wiring was my headache that i generated, so nothing to do with the conversion. Exhaust looks fine but is very tightly run in places - unsure if I am getting any knocking as still getting used to the rumble. The snorkle make a hell of a sucking noise compared to the 2.8 which at best you get a faint whstle from the turbo. Since its all velocity based, I think a 4" is on the cards sooner rather than later.
Went all the way from Melb to Perth etc return without a scratch on it. I do have 2 broken headlight covers and both the front fender parkers are out, so will check that later in the week.

Question
I have temperature monitoring gauges and can monitor up to 4 locations - where and what would you recommend. Temp threshold max is 300 degC. I was thinking inlet and outlet on engine for cooling, but what else? They are simple clamp on sensors with a crimp connector and hole to go over a bolt or stud.

So happy as a pig in mud right now.

[PeeBee]

Totally different question. Any one put a hydraulic winch on their 6.5 using a separate hydraulic pump? Curious where the pump has been put.

Cheers
Rainsey


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Rainsey, further to my previous note about the hydraulic pump location, my plans to run off the PTO have hit a snag due to the PTO being upside down and the ultra tight location. I have decided to revert to the belt driven assy and have made a plate bracket that mounts on the drivers side of the motor with the pump sitting over the top of the lower radiator hose. I will post up some shots when its assembled. There is a bit of jinking around to sort out the hoses and expense also - circa $400 just for them, so have to get it right. Once I get this operational I will investigate and resolve the PTO option, probably with a different pump that can give me the flow at lower revs to the one I have.

[rainsey]

Rainsey, further to my previous note about the hydraulic pump location, my plans to run off the PTO have hit a snag due to the PTO being upside down and the ultra tight location. I have decided to revert to the belt driven assy and have made a plate bracket that mounts on the drivers side of the motor with the pump sitting over the top of the lower radiator hose. I will post up some shots when its assembled. There is a bit of jinking around to sort out the hoses and expense also - circa $400 just for them, so have to get it right. Once I get this operational I will investigate and resolve the PTO option, probably with a different pump that can give me the flow at lower revs to the one I have.

You are the man .... hit me with some photos. Will owe you big time.

Kindest regards
Graham


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[PeeBee]

You are the man .... hit me with some photos. Will owe you big time.

Kindest regards
Graham


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Couple of shots. The angle for the installed plate is terrible, plus there is too much reflected light from under the car so the flash won't fire. I will have a crack later tonight in total darkness for the installed plate. I am yet to actually fit the pump as i have a small relocation of the starter motor cable to make so a hole is there, but it will work. The hose itself will simply be a 'whatever is avail, but looks in the order of 450mm inside dia' at a guess. The pump pulley is 50mm, the driver is 125mm, so nice step up at idle, plus when I get my hand throttle assy back from BD I can bounce the base revs up also. I intend tig welding an identical 125mm pulley onto the existing PS pulley - waiting for this to arrive from BD now. The outer pulley will have the centre removed.b Its a simple system that I used on my 2.8 for 10 yrs and its simple. Probably takes about 3 mins to adjust once you get the belt ready.698026980369804

I don't know if your engine is the same format - mine is Optimiser N/A, but the two bolts I am using are the ones that hold on the power steering bracket, 10mm or there abouts. I might end up installing slightly longer bolts as the bracket plate is 6mm and with the nut, there is only room for locktight - might get a nyloc on with uck, but no spring washer.

You can see the bracket is a total oddball. If you think its of value I can trace it out for you and post - I don't think a dimensioned drawing is going to be feasible as its 'cut to fit' and all using 'backyard garage tools', so would be nicer with a mill or laser cut. PM me with an address and i can do this over the weekend.

[rainsey]

Couple of shots. The angle for the installed plate is terrible, plus there is too much reflected light from under the car so the flash won't fire. I will have a crack later tonight in total darkness for the installed plate. I am yet to actually fit the pump as i have a small relocation of the starter motor cable to make so a hole is there, but it will work. The hose itself will simply be a 'whatever is avail, but looks in the order of 450mm inside dia' at a guess. The pump pulley is 50mm, the driver is 125mm, so nice step up at idle, plus when I get my hand throttle assy back from BD I can bounce the base revs up also. I intend tig welding an identical 125mm pulley onto the existing PS pulley - waiting for this to arrive from BD now. The outer pulley will have the centre removed.b Its a simple system that I used on my 2.8 for 10 yrs and its simple. Probably takes about 3 mins to adjust once you get the belt ready.698026980369804

I don't know if your engine is the same format - mine is Optimiser N/A, but the two bolts I am using are the ones that hold on the power steering bracket, 10mm or there abouts. I might end up installing slightly longer bolts as the bracket plate is 6mm and with the nut, there is only room for locktight - might get a nyloc on with uck, but no spring washer.

You can see the bracket is a total oddball. If you think its of value I can trace it out for you and post - I don't think a dimensioned drawing is going to be feasible as its 'cut to fit' and all using 'backyard garage tools', so would be nicer with a mill or laser cut. PM me with an address and i can do this over the weekend.

Thanks kindly for the photos. I have the turbo Optimiser and being that I am a thousand or so Km away from the truck at the moment and will be for the rest of the week, I cant compare your description to what I have.

Will be home in a week so will check then.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[PeeBee]

OK, here is the clearer shot of the bracket installed. I am guessing this arrgt would be similar to yours? Anyway, when you get home you can advise. I will do a tracing of the bracket anyway as i am trying to get this thing together and once its bolted in I don't want to touch it!69808

[rainsey]

OK, here is the clearer shot of the bracket installed. I am guessing this arrgt would be similar to yours? Anyway, when you get home you can advise. I will do a tracing of the bracket anyway as i am trying to get this thing together and once its bolted in I don't want to touch it!69808

One big difference I see and a potential problem for me is that I am running 6 rib serpentine belts, not belts. I think the V belt arrangement leaves you with more space to do funky staff like this.

Thanks heaps for the photo. Will sus it out when I get home.

Cheers
Rainsey


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[PeeBee]

One big difference I see and a potential problem for me is that I am running 6 rib serpentine belts, not belts. I think the V belt arrangement leaves you with more space to do funky staff like this.

Thanks heaps for the photo. Will sus it out when I get home.

Cheers
Rainsey


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Graham,
have a look at some of the dual alternator setups if you have the serpentine belt. In my view these are easier to work with than the vee belts and you might be able to source a ready made bracket from the US that will work well, or at least set your mind in the right direction.

[rainsey]

Graham,
have a look at some of the dual alternator setups if you have the serpentine belt. In my view these are easier to work with than the vee belts and you might be able to source a ready made bracket from the US that will work well, or at least set your mind in the right direction.

Sweet, did not know there were any dual alternator models. I might also touch base with the guys at Brunswick as they seem to know the engine inside out and back to front.

Havn't seen the truck for the last couple of weeks while Im up north, sort of missing it :)
Cheers
Rainsey


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[PeeBee]

Sweet, did not know there were any dual alternator models. I might also touch base with the guys at Brunswick as they seem to know the engine inside out and back to front.

Havn't seen the truck for the last couple of weeks while Im up north, sort of missing it :)
Cheers
Rainsey


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You won't get much joy out of BD on this as I asked at the time of doing the conversion and 'nope' was the reply. I think the ambulance that were fitted with the chev diesels had dual alternators? Do a search on ebay.com under dual alternators 6.5 diesel and a number of them will come up - just need to be certain its for the right engine as the Duramax seems to feature a lot.

[the evil twin]

Mine is a Serpy belt accessory drive and has a Belt driven onboard Air Compressor running off an xtra wide pulley on the A/C comp... IE the AC, PS pump, Alt etc are standard serpy and a dinky little extra flat ribbed belt runs the Air Compressor.

Before anyone asks... my standard price for pics is $1,000 (add $500 for autograph if req'd)

[MB]

Legendary ideas man thanks ET that's GOLD truly :-)
Pics for all yes please, transfer made just now:
Evil Enterprises P/L
BSB: 666-666
ACC: 000000#1

[Touses]

Legendary ideas man thanks ET that's GOLD truly :-)
Pics for all yes please, transfer made just now:
Evil Enterprises P/L
BSB: 666-666
ACC: 000000#1

Did you get the autograph too? Don't hold the photo up to a mirror! There is a myth about nil reflection, don't tempt the Gods (so to speak)!:devilred:

[MB]

A quick 6.5NA cooling update test today being the first 35D+ in Victoria for some six months now. Our severe hilly highway test strip out of the valley was seeing well over 100D last season and today couldn't break 95D (not towing or loaded/ute). Only 2 x setup differences since last seasons mods. 1st being AC Delco TS's that showed great stability over warm high headwind winter runs to SA. 2nd being the recent test removal of the bar/lights/winch that came with it at purchase a few years back. Swapped our factory alloy bar onto it and ran some 10-15% cooler than known before.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/181.jpgPic below was its original bar & kit now on our family wagon. The family rig doesn't have a real temp gauge yet but is today running the same hill at 3/4 instead of its usual 2/3rds tops! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/182.jpgIt is all very logical stuff I know but really needed to see the difference myself before saving/spending too much on next bullet proof hopeful steps!
Cheers



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[Plasnart]

A quick 6.5NA cooling update test today being the first 35D+ in Victoria for some six months now. Our severe hilly highway test strip out of the valley was seeing well over 100D last season and today couldn't break 95D (not towing or loaded/ute). Only 2 x setup differences since last seasons mods. 1st being AC Delco TS's that showed great stability over warm high headwind winter runs to SA. 2nd being the recent test removal of the bar/lights/winch that came with it at purchase a few years back. Swapped our factory alloy bar onto it and ran some 10-15% cooler than known before.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/181.jpgPic below was its original bar & kit now on our family wagon. The family rig doesn't have a real temp gauge yet but is today running the same hill at 3/4 instead of its usual 2/3rds tops! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/182.jpgIt is all very logical stuff I know but really needed to see the difference myself before saving/spending too much on next bullet proof hopeful steps!
Cheers



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Deh....Deh....Demazin!!

Oh I love obscure replies back at MB!! :)

[AB]

A quick 6.5NA cooling update test today being the first 35D+ in Victoria for some six months now. Our severe hilly highway test strip out of the valley was seeing well over 100D last season and today couldn't break 95D (not towing or loaded/ute). Only 2 x setup differences since last seasons mods. 1st being AC Delco TS's that showed great stability over warm high headwind winter runs to SA. 2nd being the recent test removal of the bar/lights/winch that came with it at purchase a few years back. Swapped our factory alloy bar onto it and ran some 10-15% cooler than known before.Pic below was its original bar & kit now on our family wagon. The family rig doesn't have a real temp gauge yet but is today running the same hill at 3/4 instead of its usual 2/3rds tops! It is all very logical stuff I know but really needed to see the difference myself before saving/spending too much on next bullet proof hopeful steps! Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yep, definitely piss those spottys off, yours was fine for a day like today.

[MB]

Deh....Deh....Demazin!! Oh I love obscure replies back at MB!! :)
:-) .......:-)

[MB]

Why are you blokes so unkind :-(
https://youtu.be/JAIOzM7SsMo

[MB]

Yep, definitely piss those spottys off, yours was fine for a day like today.
Like this I reckon !
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/2.gif


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[nissannewby]

What bullbar is that? It is very restrictive of airflow. It nearly looks custom made. What year is your rig again Mark? @MB

[MB]

What bullbar is that? It is very restrictive of airflow. It nearly looks custom made. What year is your rig again Mark? @MB
G'day NNB :-)
The bar came on the car complete from WA. Have seen similar getting around over there of late since working to and fro. Pictures may be a bit deceiving in the dark pic as it does have 2 x lower holes but they deflect downwards too:-(
1999 coil ute

[nissannewby]

G'day NNB :-)
The bar came on the car complete from WA. Have seen similar getting around over there of late since working to and fro. Pictures may be a bit deceiving in the dark pic as it does have 2 x lower holes but they deflect downwards too:-(
1999 coil ute

It is very different to most I have seen. The genuine bar that is fitted to my ute is a lot nicer for flow. And visually looks a lot different to that one. The biggest thing for any cooling system is airflow. You can have the biggest radiator concieved but if you cant get air flow through it then it wont stay cool.

[MB]

Too true, Cheers Mat :-) !

[rainsey]

A quick 6.5NA cooling update test today being the first 35D+ in Victoria for some six months now. Our severe hilly highway test strip out of the valley was seeing well over 100D last season and today couldn't break 95D (not towing or loaded/ute). Only 2 x setup differences since last seasons mods. 1st being AC Delco TS's that showed great stability over warm high headwind winter runs to SA. 2nd being the recent test removal of the bar/lights/winch that came with it at purchase a few years back. Swapped our factory alloy bar onto it and ran some 10-15% cooler than known before.http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/181.jpgPic below was its original bar & kit now on our family wagon. The family rig doesn't have a real temp gauge yet but is today running the same hill at 3/4 instead of its usual 2/3rds tops! http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/182.jpgIt is all very logical stuff I know but really needed to see the difference myself before saving/spending too much on next bullet proof hopeful steps!
Cheers



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Going to look like an idiot I am sure but the AC Delco TS's .... what is the TS?

Cheers
Rainsey


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[nissannewby]

ThermoStats

[rainsey]

It is very different to most I have seen. The genuine bar that is fitted to my ute is a lot nicer for flow. And visually looks a lot different to that one. The biggest thing for any cooling system is airflow. You can have the biggest radiator concieved but if you cant get air flow through it then it wont stay cool.

This is something I am concerned about. In front of my radiator I have the AC condenser, a cooler coming off the power steering and what looks to be an oil cooler ( these are on the drivers side of the radiator, then on the passengers side a thermo fan.

Seems to me that getting air to the radiator is almost an impossibility.

Cheers
Rainsey


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[MB]

Still dreaming of my 'Millweld' in 'White' (minus spotties) + (me old 90's HM revamped) with new 2 x descent oil coolers out front :-) Cooling bullet proof I reckon :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/184.jpg


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[rainsey]

Still dreaming of my 'Millweld' in 'White' (minus spotties) + (me old 90's HM revamped) with new 2 x descent oil coolers out front :-) Cooling bullet proof I reckon :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2016/11/184.jpg


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Now that is a cool idea, pardon the pun. Getting rid of the fog light insets in my ARB bar ( as I don't have fog lights) and moving the oil and PS coolers behind these locations.

This would free up realestate in front of the radiator.

Thanks heaps for the idea!
Cheers
Rainsey


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[nissannewby]

This is something I am concerned about. In front of my radiator I have the AC condenser, a cooler coming off the power steering and what looks to be an oil cooler ( these are on the drivers side of the radiator, then on the passengers side a thermo fan.

Seems to me that getting air to the radiator is almost an impossibility.

Cheers
Rainsey


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What model is yours? And is it Auto?

[MB]

This is something I am concerned about. In front of my radiator I have the AC condenser, a cooler coming off the power steering and what looks to be an oil cooler ( these are on the drivers side of the radiator, then on the passengers side a thermo fan. Seems to me that getting air to the radiator is almost an impossibility. Cheers Rainsey Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
G'day Rainsey, great to see you back old mate!
Your query above is where it gets tricky for me mate. I'm running a weird setup of twin rear 16' pulling fans for slow low climbs (no mech fan) Custom brass radiator with no shrouds to speak of. And it's a manual NA too. Blokes like ET have sorted out their auto versions with great success I believe, sorry for the confusion mate :-(

[rainsey]

G'day Rainsey, great to see you back old mate!
Your query above is where it gets tricky for me mate. I'm running a weird setup of twin rear 16' pulling fans for slow low climbs (no mech fan) Custom brass radiator with no shrouds to speak of. And it's a manual NA too. Blokes like ET have sorted out their auto versions with great success I believe, sorry for the confusion mate :-(

Hey, no confusion, clear as mud :)
It the slow climbs when towing that Im concerned about. Just being a sponge for info.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[MB]

Hey, no confusion, clear as mud :) It the slow climbs when towing that Im concerned about. Just being a sponge for info. Kindest regards Rainsey Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
You're a good man :-)
Just to be clear for others, when I mentioned slow climbs, truly meant 2kmph up rocky hills with 3,000+ CFM. My setup is far from proven hauling 3.0T vans @ 100kmph :-(

[PeeBee]

G'day Rainsey, great to see you back old mate!
Your query above is where it gets tricky for me mate. I'm running a weird setup of twin rear 16' pulling fans for slow low climbs (no mech fan) Custom brass radiator with no shrouds to speak of. And it's a manual NA too. Blokes like ET have sorted out their auto versions with great success I believe, sorry for the confusion mate :-(

Mark, is this how you bought yours or did you do the mods yourself? I have removed my 9" LED driving lights and replaced with a single 28" led light bar that just fits between the posts of the ARB bullbar. This gives almost a clear throat thru the radiator - looking at chopping the licence plate down and relocating it to open it right up.The rating of the light output is greater than the spotties but the range is no doubt reduced. I am off to Burgoynes on thursday thru Monday, so will see how the temps rise and start to get used to the new rig. Finally got the correct GVM plate from BD today, so heading to Vicroads next week for the process.

[MB]

G'day Phil, it came with a custom aluminium radiator which unfortunately fell apart on me within the first 6 months. New setup was created with the blokes at Yarra Ranges Radiators-Lilydale who have experience up the high country way too. Have fun on Burgoynes mate, will have to join you on a trip in early 2017 when it all calms down for me. Great news on your GVM plate issue finally corrected, Happy Days!
Safe Travels :-) !


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[PeeBee]

First weekend away with the new motor - did not go well.

Got into Burgoynes without incident and stopped to have a look at the hut - car world not stat - battery appeared totally daed or at least it was sitting at 13.5V then turn the key - down to 4V - fark. Jump started it with a cable across to the aux battery - all going.

Drove over the hill to the next capsite, parked up then heard a hissing and splashing sound - oil pissing out of the sump. Checked further, 20 cent piece slot hole punched in the sump - lost about a liter of oil.

BD changed the coils and the ones they put in are sloppy and way too soft - coil went to full compression at about 1kph and came down hard on a mount bolt holding the front diff guard in place - fark

Popped bonnet and aircon belt had turned itself completely inside out on the pulley - how the hell can that happen?

Anyway, luckily had a slug of instant metal, so cleaned up the slash and fixed the hole. Starter issues just got worse and had a look at the belt but the mechanism to adjust the belt defies everything i have seen so far, so left that alone.

Rang BD on Saturday after climbing out of the valley to get phone coverage. They are organising a new starter motor and sump, out of Eagle Spares in Melb on Monday - will see how long this actually takes. I will have to have another chat with Scotty at BD about the belt though. Couple of shots attached. Going to weigh the front of the vehicle to match a set of coils correctly.

Engine itself runs hard and well, really happy. Fuel consumption way better that the overloaded 2.8 - approx 1/4 tank better for same k's. Have not filled it back up yet as cant rstart it when it stops at the moment.

[MB]

Sorry to hear your first run was a bugger old mate :-( You mentioned pics 'attached' I can't see them Phil, maybe my Tapatalk app thingo ?


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[PeeBee]

Sorry to hear your first run was a bugger old mate :-( You mentioned pics 'attached' I can't see them Phil, maybe my Tapatalk app thingo ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope, tried twice and they wont load. Will try later

[PeeBee]

AB, cant attache images - is there a problem at your end?

[PeeBee]

OK, Chev conversion guys, what front springs are you running? I am after something thats around the 50mm lift so it does not attract the attention of the coppers, but more importantly must be able to take the weight of a 6.5 chev V8, hydraulic winch, ARB Bb and side rails and second battery. I am yet to weigh the front end, but your input would be greatly appreciated. I am running Dobinson 400kg coils with airbags on the rear, but not convinced necessarily on this brand for the front based on how they failed to hold their height even when unloaded.

[PeeBee]

Nope, tried twice and they wont load. Will try later

BD organised a new starter first thing this morning so went across town and picked it up. Sorting out the springs now, and heavier bump stops as well. Waiting on their reply regards the delivery and change over of the sump, so all heading in the right direction with no push-back.

Will try to attach a couple of photos - again!

[PeeBee]

7004570046
These are the damage areas. Ignore the last 2 images on previous message- could not remove them via editing

[rainsey]

First weekend away with the new motor - did not go well.

Got into Burgoynes without incident and stopped to have a look at the hut - car world not stat - battery appeared totally daed or at least it was sitting at 13.5V then turn the key - down to 4V - fark. Jump started it with a cable across to the aux battery - all going.

Drove over the hill to the next capsite, parked up then heard a hissing and splashing sound - oil pissing out of the sump. Checked further, 20 cent piece slot hole punched in the sump - lost about a liter of oil.

BD changed the coils and the ones they put in are sloppy and way too soft - coil went to full compression at about 1kph and came down hard on a mount bolt holding the front diff guard in place - fark

Popped bonnet and aircon belt had turned itself completely inside out on the pulley - how the hell can that happen?

Anyway, luckily had a slug of instant metal, so cleaned up the slash and fixed the hole. Starter issues just got worse and had a look at the belt but the mechanism to adjust the belt defies everything i have seen so far, so left that alone.

Rang BD on Saturday after climbing out of the valley to get phone coverage. They are organising a new starter motor and sump, out of Eagle Spares in Melb on Monday - will see how long this actually takes. I will have to have another chat with Scotty at BD about the belt though. Couple of shots attached. Going to weigh the front of the vehicle to match a set of coils correctly.

Engine itself runs hard and well, really happy. Fuel consumption way better that the overloaded 2.8 - approx 1/4 tank better for same k's. Have not filled it back up yet as cant rstart it when it stops at the moment.

Re the time it takes for Brunswick to supply parts, as some of you know I have been chasing an oil leak. Each time we think we found the cause Scotty at Brunswick shipped the respective part, air express via toll, had it on the east coast within 2 days.

Re the oil leak ... will post in my next post.

Re the air air con belt. BD put a sticker under my bonnet near the catch with a diagram as to how it all goes in... bloody handy.

Cheers
Rainsey



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[rainsey]

Hi folks,

Whilst I am absolutely stoked with my new 6.5 Chev, I have a slight issue with an oil leak. Thought I would put it out there to see if any one may have any ideas.

Firstly I have to praise Brunswick as they have let me use my own mechanic over east and have been covering the cost as warranty.

The leak displays itself as oil dripping off the return to centre steering damper spring. We have traced the leak to be in out around the front main crank seal. So far we have :-
1: Replaced the front main crank seal.
2: replaced the water pump gasket
3: now today pulled the sump off and re sealed it.

I still have the leak. For the life of all of us, we cannot actually pin point the source of the oil. My only thought now is some excessive crank case pressure pushing oil out the main crank seal.

I don't particularly want to spend another 3 grand shipping the truck over to WA and back so I thought I would put it out there.. Anyone with a 6.5 had any very covert difficult to find oil leaks at the front of the engine?

Kindest regards
Rainsey



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Think we found it.

BD sent a new harmonic balancer. How it happened on a new engine, have no idea but ... what the heck.




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[PeeBee]

Re the time it takes for Brunswick to supply parts, as some of you know I have been chasing an oil leak. Each time we think we found the cause Scotty at Brunswick shipped the respective part, air express via toll, had it on the east coast within 2 days.

Re the oil leak ... will post in my next post.

Re the air air con belt. BD put a sticker under my bonnet near the catch with a diagram as to how it all goes in... bloody handy.

Cheers
Rainsey



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Happy with service for sure. Bit peeved I had to drive to Tullamarine to pick up part and then have to fit myself. I won't be expecting to do this for the springs and sump.
Checked weight distribution today re correct springs and have 1480kg on front and 1720kg on back which is right on my gem upgrade limit. No idea where the weight is coming from so have to have a close look.

[peterc99]

Hi to all 6.5 Chev owners - please check proximity of crossover (exhaust) pipe to your starter motor - had mine die due to stator winding solder connection failing - apparently due to heat.

Regards

Peter

[PeeBee]

Hi to all 6.5 Chev owners - please check proximity of crossover (exhaust) pipe to your starter motor - had mine die due to stator winding solder connection failing - apparently due to heat.

Regards

Peter

Thanks Peter I will have a closer look. I have already insulated the cables to the startermotor as they very close. I actually changed over my new starter motor last night - the original lasted 222 klm before making contact with the front diff and breaking. As luck would have it, after fitting the brand new, out of the box starter, the solenoid is dicky and randomly decides when it will work - grrrrr, not happy. The pain continues and I guess will end - sometime.

[PeeBee]

OK, Chev conversion guys, what front springs are you running? I am after something thats around the 50mm lift so it does not attract the attention of the coppers, but more importantly must be able to take the weight of a 6.5 chev V8, hydraulic winch, ARB Bb and side rails and second battery. I am yet to weigh the front end, but your input would be greatly appreciated. I am running Dobinson 400kg coils with airbags on the rear, but not convinced necessarily on this brand for the front based on how they failed to hold their height even when unloaded.

Guys, maybe you are not running coils???? Anyway I have the vehicle booked in on Dec 11 with Dobinsons to sort out the right front coils and try to resolve the bump stop issue. I was looking at bump stops on ebay but think I may need to go down the track of adjustable hydraulic or the sorts - any input appreciated. Has anyone had issues similar to mine of thumping the sump against the diff housing?

[Ropes]

Hi to all 6.5 Chev owners - please check proximity of crossover (exhaust) pipe to your starter motor - had mine die due to stator winding solder connection failing - apparently due to heat.

Regards

Peter

Hi Peter, forgive me but it took me three days to read this thread in it's entirety and I can't remember when you had your conversion done, what sort of a time frame are you talking about in regards to this failure?

Cheers
Craig

[Ropes]

Today I ripped the aux battery out from under the truck and fitted it up in the rear, in front of one of the drawers. I was sick of seeing high temps on the battery monitor due to its proximity to the exhaust. 49 degrees C on much of my last trip convinced me it was killing the battery and I wanted to move it. I am posting this here as it really is a specific thing to the Brunswick conversions as there is no room in the engine bay.

Couple of pics.

New battery location. I just used the same battery box as it was easier to mount than a tray.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_130624_374_zps0165cxa6.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_130624_374_zps0165cxa6.jpg.html)

Shortening one of the drawers...

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_135554_467_zps7tropwwi.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_135554_467_zps7tropwwi.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173024_120_zpswbkkrxfb.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173024_120_zpswbkkrxfb.jpg.html)

Just used rivets to refasten the back of the drawer.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_152210_680_zpslagjy4ra.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_152210_680_zpslagjy4ra.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173051_200_zpsmgwa6ki9.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173051_200_zpsmgwa6ki9.jpg.html)

Battery now sits right behind the Redarc BMS.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_154125_005_zpszxccfrnm.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_154125_005_zpszxccfrnm.jpg.html)

Now have some re-wiring to do to complete the job. Some new lighting, compressor power, and a fuse block are being planned.

Thanks heaps for the pictures and especially the reasoning why you did it.

I wasn't particularly happy with the idea of putting the battery down under the vehicle when Scotty (BD) said they'd be putting it there, that coupled with the fact they said I also couldn't keep my current mandrel bent 3" exhaust because the battery needed to go there and now after reading here what their 3" exhaust systems are like.....
I'll keep mine and they can leave the battery out for me to fit when I get the vehicle back.

Cheers
Craig

[Ropes]

A/R- Aspect ratio of a housing attached to the turbo.

Peter has changed his turbine housing.

Its the way they measure the size of the housing. Generally the smaller the number the quicker it will respond but will be restrictive in higher rpm due to not being able to flow enough.

I would be inclined to leave a 0.84ar turbine housing on a chev fitted with an auto.

Ultimately I would bin the garrett and put a borg warner turbo on it instead.

This might help too.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee380/Ropes-GU/Misc/Turbo%20AR.jpg (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/Ropes-GU/media/Misc/Turbo%20AR.jpg.html)

[MB]

Guys, maybe you are not running coils???? Anyway I have the vehicle booked in on Dec 11 with Dobinsons to sort out the right front coils and try to resolve the bump stop issue. I was looking at bump stops on ebay but think I may need to go down the track of adjustable hydraulic or the sorts - any input appreciated. Has anyone had issues similar to mine of thumping the sump against the diff housing?
G'day Phil, mine came from the west massive coils all round. Not sure what brand mate, just know they were the thickest I've ever seen. Now I'm running Firestone bag coil replacements in the rear and Ridepro coils in the front. Coil replacements in the front were too much mucking around for Vic roads as they want sensors as safety features etc... I'm gonna have to reassess my front coils now too with a new bar coming hopefully after Chrissy. Please do keep us posted with what Dobinson's reckon although yours is GQ and I think most of us posting here at the moment are heavier GU's. Cheers mate!

[MB]

<img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70045"/><img src="http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=70046"/> These are the damage areas. Ignore the last 2 images on previous message- could not remove them via editing
G'day Phil, photos are hard with angles and such, it looks like the bolt & nut from your dif shield hit it and pierced through maybe?

[PeeBee]

G'day Phil, photos are hard with angles and such, it looks like the bolt & nut from your dif shield hit it and pierced through maybe?

Yes, exactly, and the bolt body dented the pan itself. The stater motor hit the diff also and broke.

Dobinsons are going to drop the springs out and also measure the required bump stop length the stop the diff hitting the sump etc as part of the exercise - not sure where and how I go to resolve the bump stop issue but will have to listen and asses what theysay I guess - BD simply don't seem to have come across this issue - which is bizarre.. The coils we are looking at are 19mm dia wire with 50mm nominal lift. The coils recommended by one of their distributors on ebay has been dismissed. Still jousting with BD about the replacement faulty starter and who is going to fit it - I am totally over this at the moment. I will let you know where it ends for sure.

[jay see]

I am posting this here as it really is a specific thing to the Brunswick conversions as there is no room in the engine bay.

Couple of pics.

New battery location. I just used the same battery box as it was easier to mount than a tray.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_130624_374_zps0165cxa6.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_130624_374_zps0165cxa6.jpg.html)

Shortening one of the drawers...

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_135554_467_zps7tropwwi.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_135554_467_zps7tropwwi.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173024_120_zpswbkkrxfb.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173024_120_zpswbkkrxfb.jpg.html)

Just used rivets to refasten the back of the drawer.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_152210_680_zpslagjy4ra.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_152210_680_zpslagjy4ra.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173051_200_zpsmgwa6ki9.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_173051_200_zpsmgwa6ki9.jpg.html)

Battery now sits right behind the Redarc BMS.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_154125_005_zpszxccfrnm.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/IMG_20140713_154125_005_zpszxccfrnm.jpg.html)

Now have some re-wiring to do to complete the job. Some new lighting, compressor power, and a fuse block are being planned.

Also for the gas blowers like me.
Like this, think I will be pinching this idea if the battery and box isn't too tall.

[lucus30]

Also for the gas blowers like me.
Like this, think I will be pinching this idea if the battery and box isn't too tall.
Behind the drawers I wouldn't worry about a box if it's a AGM or something

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

[peterc99]

Hi Craig, the Chev engine was put in 2.5 years ago, but don't wait that long if your crossover pipe is close to the starter - better to wrap heat shielding (double wrap)around crossover pipe adjacent to the starter to prevent any future problems. This could have failed on our Madigan trip - would have been awkward.

Regards
Peter

[peterc99]

Hi PBBIZ2 It may be worth checking the relay that operates the solenoid that BD fit on the driver side inner guard - I have replaced mine.

Regards
Peter

[peterc99]

Hi all re exhaust turbine housing change to.63 - much better performance on the highway (since these engines rarely rev past 3000 there is no real problem with flow) Recent trip from NSW South Coast to Mansfield and onto 2 weeks in Victorian HC am very happy with .63 turbine.

Regards
Peter

[PeeBee]

Hi PBBIZ2 It may be worth checking the relay that operates the solenoid that BD fit on the driver side inner guard - I have replaced mine.

Regards
Peter

Peter,

carton heading your way! Asked about this possibility, nope, forget it, can't happen! Famous last words, should have known. By luck i had a relay sitting around, swapped it over and bingo - so repeated 5 times and looking good. Many thanks as i was staring down the barrel of another starter motor installation, plus BD were about to send a new starter over from WA. I will let them know to put it on hold for the next week or so.

Many many thanks.
Phil

[peterc99]

Hi PBBIZ2 an easy fix (hopefully) happy to be of help.

Regards
Peter

[PeeBee]

Peter, back at square 1, replacement relay also started the same intermittent tricks, so swapped out a third, this time an 80amp unit just to confirm it wasn't a contact issue, and the starter is still reacting the same way, so its the starter motor for sure. I am waiting from one being sent from WA - on TOLL, supposed to arrive friday but didn't. Anyway, I am glad I totally excluded the relay. BD are also sending across a replacement sump kit later this week. Can't fault the service to be frank and they are standing up and taking responsibility for the issues without any pushback.

[rainsey]

Peter, back at square 1, replacement relay also started the same intermittent tricks, so swapped out a third, this time an 80amp unit just to confirm it wasn't a contact issue, and the starter is still reacting the same way, so its the starter motor for sure. I am waiting from one being sent from WA - on TOLL, supposed to arrive friday but didn't. Anyway, I am glad I totally excluded the relay. BD are also sending across a replacement sump kit later this week. Can't fault the service to be frank and they are standing up and taking responsibility for the issues without any pushback.

TOLL are the slackest transport company that I have ever had to use. I instructed Brunswick not to use them for shipping anything to me.

I was waiting on a seal that Scotty sent, only to find that the TOLL courier had not only delivered it to the wrong house number, but the wrong street, then I get a card in my mail box stating that they could not deliver because no one was home...

What a load of crock.

Every time I have something transported by TOLL I always have had issues.


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[MB]

Off topic, apologies Gents :-)
I'm still absolutely stoked in my 6.5 twactor ;-)
In fact reckon I have also proven their 'Inertia' capabilities recently to a stock LandCruiser neighbour mate. 1st gear only 2WH near walking beside it together @ under 500rpm up our steep conjoining paddocks proved it for him, lol :-)

[PeeBee]

TOLL are the slackest transport company that I have ever had to use. I instructed Brunswick not to use them for shipping anything to me.

I was waiting on a seal that Scotty sent, only to find that the TOLL courier had not only delivered it to the wrong house number, but the wrong street, then I get a card in my mail box stating that they could not deliver because no one was home...

What a load of crock.

Every time I have something transported by TOLL I always have had issues.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

BD advised the starter had been delivered to my work at 11am on friday. Nope, not there, anywhere. I will admit that every other delivery from BD has been overnight without fail. Might be this one is a bit heavier? Anyway, mentally I wasn't up to swapping out the starter again this week after the disappointment, so this week will be better - sort of.

[rainsey]

BD advised the starter had been delivered to my work at 11am on friday. Nope, not there, anywhere. I will admit that every other delivery from BD has been overnight without fail. Might be this one is a bit heavier? Anyway, mentally I wasn't up to swapping out the starter again this week after the disappointment, so this week will be better - sort of.

Get the Conn note number and put it up TOLL... they may have delivered it the company next door :)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[PeeBee]

Get the Conn note number and put it up TOLL... they may have delivered it the company next door :)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Starter direct shipped from supplier. No contact name on parcel, so it has been carted around to 20 different locations and finally ended up at reception. I tell ya, I am over this lack of detail and the long path i have to travel with this car.

I chased down some details on the installed springs with the manufacturer and they are aghast they were put into this vehicle. They should have been 100kg rated but 50kg coils were actually installed. I am struggling with trust right now.

[Ropes]

--SNIP--

I still have the old engine sitting on the back so tomorrow I will be dropping it off at Simms Metal to get rid of it. Once it's off I will get out and give it a good run.

--SNIP--

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Hi Rainsey,

Was your old ZD30 dead? I'm guessing that was the reason you didn't trade it in to BD?

Cheers
Craig

[rainsey]

Hi Rainsey,

Was your old ZD30 dead? I'm guessing that was the reason you didn't trade it in to BD?

Cheers
Craig

Not quite dead.
For years I have been bitching about the pathetic towing capability of the ZD30. Feb this year I was on holidays and was driving up from Margaret River and noticed that Brunswick was on my way to Perth so I dropped in. Greg was fantastic, so much so the wife was almost ready to do the conversion then and there.

I started researching other options, Duramax, Turbo upgrades and the likes, and got the run around.

My trip over to WA from the east side this year I was driving by the gauges, predominantly the engine temp and the EGT. I hated it. I had a chronic over heating issue that cost me a grand in Perth for a new radiator, but I was still struggling with my EGT's.

About 4 months ago, I started having coolant being pushed out which turned was diagnosed as either a head gasket or a cracked head. I needed a new clutch, potentially a new head and the labour to fix, and then I still had a ZD30 that could not tow.

I opted to go the Optimiser 6.5. Shipped over to BD and shipped back. As per my original post the ZD 30 got taken down to Simms Metal, I could not bother to even strip it down.

Why did I not trade it in, because BD has a shite loads of good ZD30's and had no need for a suspect one.

BD I think have a warehouse of ZD 30's being that this is the most common upgrade.

Cheers

Rainsey


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Ropes]

Not quite dead.
For years I have been bitching about the pathetic towing capability of the ZD30. Feb this year I was on holidays and was driving up from Margaret River and noticed that Brunswick was on my way to Perth so I dropped in. Greg was fantastic, so much so the wife was almost ready to do the conversion then and there.

I started researching other options, Duramax, Turbo upgrades and the likes, and got the run around.

My trip over to WA from the east side this year I was driving by the gauges, predominantly the engine temp and the EGT. I hated it. I had a chronic over heating issue that cost me a grand in Perth for a new radiator, but I was still struggling with my EGT's.

About 4 months ago, I started having coolant being pushed out which turned was diagnosed as either a head gasket or a cracked head. I needed a new clutch, potentially a new head and the labour to fix, and then I still had a ZD30 that could not tow.

I opted to go the Optimiser 6.5. Shipped over to BD and shipped back. As per my original post the ZD 30 got taken down to Simms Metal, I could not bother to even strip it down.

Why did I not trade it in, because BD has a shite loads of good ZD30's and had no need for a suspect one.

BD I think have a warehouse of ZD 30's being that this is the most common upgrade.

Cheers

Rainsey


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Thanks for the in depth response, I know the feeling of watching gauges on a long trip, having just returned from a 4 month trip myself.

Similar problems as you, just a different order, head gasket a few months before the trip, so I replaced the head as well.

Then the radiator two weeks into our trip when we reached Cairns.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee380/Ropes-GU/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160513_083951.jpg (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/Ropes-GU/media/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160513_083951.jpg.html)

Other than that the reason I'm going to have a 6.5 installed is for better towing ability and reliability.

My mate Pete and I went for a drive down to BD last week, Scotty took us for a tour through their workshop, answered all our questions, then he took us for a test drive in a recently converted Patrol and we were sold.

So if all goes to plan there'll be a new heartbeat fitted in mid February next year.

Thanks to everyone here I've already changed a couple of things in my quote, so if there's anything else you would have done but didn't or did and wished you hadn't please feel free to let me know.


Cheers
Craig

[rainsey]

Thanks for the in depth response, I know the feeling of watching gauges on a long trip, having just returned from a 4 month trip myself.

Similar problems as you, just a different order, head gasket a few months before the trip, so I replaced the head as well.

Then the radiator two weeks into our trip when we reached Cairns.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee380/Ropes-GU/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160513_083951.jpg (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/Ropes-GU/media/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160513_083951.jpg.html)

Other than that the reason I'm going to have a 6.5 installed is for better towing ability and reliability.

My mate Pete and I went for a drive down to BD last week, Scotty took us for a tour through their workshop, answered all our questions, then he took us for a test drive in a recently converted Patrol and we were sold.

So if all goes to plan there'll be a new heartbeat fitted in mid February next year.

Thanks to everyone here I've already changed a couple of things in my quote, so if there's anything else you would have done but didn't or did and wished you hadn't please feel free to let me know.


Cheers
Craig

Craig,
The only thing that I should have done at the time was to get BD to put in a cruise control. With the new diff gearing as part of the install and the extra torque, when i hit the freeway now I never get out of 5th gear. Sort of gets a bit boring on the right foot for long distances.

I only met Greg when I was over there but since then, in sorting out an oil leak issue, I have been dealing with Scotty. I am hanging out to meet him in person, sounds like an absolute character over the phone.

I had some teething issues but BD have busted their guts to sort them out without question.

2 things I can be a critic of the whole install was the exhaust and the air inlet. I had a end to end mandrel bent exhaust on the ZD30. What BD install is a relatively cheap 3" system that in some places are bent down to probably under 2 inches on some of the bends. Also the pipe that goes between exhaust manifold is tiny. When I have to replace it I will be going to some one like Beaudesert to get a quality exhaust custom made.

Re the inlet, I have a standard Safari snorkel and my engine at times sounds like it is absolutely starving for air. Under load I get a substantive sucking sound. I have my eyes on a Milweld 4" snorkel to alleviate this issue.

All in all I am over the moon with the quality of the work, the after instal support and the drive of the vehicle. One of the chaps on the Patrol 4x4 forum I spoke to prior to committing to the install stated to me that he did not know why it took him so long to get rid of the ZD30. I now totally agree with his summation.

Kindest regards
Rainsey



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[FNQGU]

Not wanting to dampen your enthusiasm, but when I had mine done, I was extremely disappointed with the additional electrical work, both with the fridge socket that I asked for in the cargo bay, and with the cruise control. Both were shoddy in the extreme and had to be ripped out and rectified. The fridge wiring was done with a scotch type connector and took me ages to find the issue. The cruise control wire was crimped on with a yellow crimp terminal to the fuel pump like a 5 year-old had done it. This broke on me in the middle of no-where as of course they tend to do. If you get any sort of extra electrical work done, then from my personal experience, I would have it checked over thoroughly, or just done elsewhere by someone you trust.

Agree with Rainsey on the exhaust too. I was assured it was a quality 3 inch system, and when I saw the restrictions I was also disappointed.

There was also another issue I had with the exhaust rubbing to the point it wore through the wrap they had put on it. This was on the passengers side, off the engine. I don't have any pictures unfortunately, sorry, but watch for clearances when the engine is given a bootful and twists on its mounts.

My airbox also leaked around the base and I had to sikaflex it up for a proper seal and I had the Viscous Hub shit itself right on the 2 year mark.

The final gripe I had was that I cracked the starter motor badly when bottoming out on some dunes in the Simpson and had to replace it with a new one. This was due to suspension setup straight from BD, so keep a close eye on your starter for any signs of wear marks due to bottoming out. Speaking of which, I had to change our all four coil springs to heavier duty versions due to the amount of sag over 2 years so pay attention to your weights and spring choices and don't just leave it to BD to do it for you.

Also - ask where the bloody catch can is going to be fitted, and make sure you are happy you can easily access the drain. Mine was fitted almost dead centre on the rear firewall and was a PITA to get to, especially if you wanted to remove the BS bit of steel wool or scotch pad crap that was stuck in the guts of it as a so-called filter. Ask for an extension tube to be fitted with an easy to access tap, or at least be satisfied with what you see you are getting. Better yet - specifiy a catch can you know works properly.

Sorry, I'm not a fan of BD, but maybe they have picked up their game, or maybe it was the individual who did the job on my truck, I don't know but it took me a lot of extra time and effort to sort mine out. I hope your experience works out better than mine did.

[Ropes]

Thanks guys,

I can confirm that Scotty is a great character, with a wealth of knowledge to share who has been with Greg from the start.

After a lot of research, (read as weeding through the 3rd and 4th hand info) there are a few things I will/will not be doing.

1. I've had a cruise control since I bought this car and won't be without one for touring now, so that will be getting done but not by them.

2. I currently have a mandrel bent Manta 3" exhaust, which Scotty originally said couldn't stay because they need to relocate the Aux battery down underneath the car and they have to redesign an exhaust to fit in with that. I wasn't overly happy with the thought of the battery being down there for several reasons, cheers FNQGU file://localhost/Users/Smee/Library/Group%20Containers/UBF8T346G9.Office/msoclip1/01/clip_image001.gif for providing proof supporting one of those reasons (heat). My exhaust is now staying and Greg has said they can plumb into that and I'll be moving the Aux battery into the drawer system myself, as illustrated by FNQGU.

3. They only electrical work that they will be doing is what's needed for the engine conversion, I'll be doing everything else myself.

4. They still fit the catch can in the same place but now they plumb in a drain line with a valve down to the chassis rail near the sump, I do have the provent fitted atm although due to its size I'm not sure if that can be used.

5. My springs are all HD and due for a change soon anyway, so I'll keep an eye on the sag etc.

6. I have the benefit of living only 1.5hrs away, so I'll be down there every other day keeping an eye on their progress.

Another thing that I will be getting done at the same time is the hydraulic brake upgrade, mainly to save time mucking around with engineering certification etc.
Has anyone else done this?

Cheers
Craig

[rainsey]

Craig,

Re the catch can, just take what they give you and change it if it does not suit. I have a great HPD unit that I am going to swap around when I get time. The catchcan they supply is pretty basic as is its filtering, but what the heck, the fact that they put one on standard is in my books a good thing.

Re the hydraulic brake booster, bugger me I am jealous. I asked Greg about them a month or so back and he knew nothing about them. If it is Marks Adapters unit it looks fantastic.

When you get it in please keep me updated as to how it goes as for what, around $1200, it is supposed to double your brake performance. You also need the stainless brake lines as well to cater for the extra pressure.

I have had my finger hovering over the purchase now button for months. Ill take it away until I hear back from you.

Re the electrics, yes I do tend to agree as the initial issue I had on receipt of my truck was silly things like earth lines not re connected and the main power cable from the battery to the fuse block only being finger tight, which subsequently vibrated even looser. Greg was ready to ship me a new alternator before I figured this out.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[PeeBee]

Craig,
I have just taken delivery of my GQ with the n/a optimiser engine. There were a couple of minor things with the finish but nothing to harp on about. I unfortunately experienced a couple of failures due to incorrect springs being installed, however despite it raising the blood pressure, BD have taken the load and replaced the components without hesitation. Couple of points worth mentioning to improve your outcome
1) I would keep the scope of work as 'standard' as possible. Variation from the typical conversion takes time and in my case didn't end well.
2) when you get your quote, make sure it includes EVERYTHING' required for the conversion. I ended up with a list of replacement parts that really should have been disclosed at the time of the quote, so the price went up. I don't dispute the need, more the delayed disclosure of parts for what has been done many many times - stuff like power steering pump upgrade from 2.8 to 4.2, power clutch booster, upgraded alternator, front springs to name a few.
3) I think the gvm upgrade is a lot easier in WA than to get than over here and I am having all sorts of dramas getting the WA certification recognised - in fact its likely the cost is going to be refunded for this and it will cost 2-3 times what BD charged me - Vicroads are painful.
4) Check those front springs - and make sure they are at least what are termed 100kg rated coils (somewhere around the 19mm dia it looks). Unfortunately mine was fitted with 50kg units with serious consequences. I put this down to a simple error to be honest or a mix up at BD with their stocks. The ones currently in mine are being upgraded on monday - happy to share the final selection, however performance is something I will have to delay comment on. Also, make a point of getting BD to guarantee the front bump stops are configured to 100% not allow contact with the sump or the starter motor - they simply need to drop the coils out and pivot the bump diff upwards to a point where a mechanical stop can be determined. Don't trust the rubber bump stops to protect you - you need a block of steel/plastic to provide the travel restriction. Your typical driving might be different to mine, but rutted steep and shagged tracks are the norm here as against miles and miles of long haul and corrugations. This is another thing happening on monday - I punched a hole in the sump and smashed the tiebar off the starter. If you mention these points , Scotty and his crw will address them - I was caught out with wrong springs, so here is the lesson I guess.

Anyway, I love the grunt, coming from a 2.8TD and the torque is great. I think the conversion is worth the coin and have faith in BD regards their build quality.

[rainsey]

Wow,

I must have had a dream run.

The quote I got from Greg was totally itemised and the only thing that was a variation was the amount of cabling I had going up the left side of my ZD30 which interfered with the exhaust. It took his sparky a whole day to reroute so I took that one on the chin.

I got my GVM upgrade at the time of the engine install. The paper work installed was supplied to the NSW based engineer and he happily transferred it over to his engineering report. To be honest, engineering was my biggest phobia and it turned out to be the easiest!

With regards to the GVM, I already had the request requirements, tower bridge, 400KG rated springs and so on ( the springs and shocks were OME) so the GVM upgrade was a no brainer. Hearing you chaps talk of 100Kg springs sort of scares me.

When I questioned BD over engineering they referred me to a NSW engineer that I spoke to before committing. He was totally aware of the BD work and when I rolled up he had no issues with the mods and GVM upgrade. After 28 odd years of doing this it amazes me that BD don't have the equivalent VIC engineer that is in total understanding of the upgrade process.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[nissannewby]

It amazes me that after 28 odd years of doing the same thing using out of date engines that there are still issues. :)

[PeeBee]

It amazes me that after 28 odd years of doing the same thing using out of date engines that there are still issues. :)

People change, parts manufacturers change, rules change, vehicles change. Reverting to 'electronic free engines' isn't really a step backwards, just makes them simpler. The optimiser is a brand new block design with tried and tested old school parts. Works for me because I can fix it. What is of concern is the detail bits that either get overlooked or ignored. Stuff like overheating is always going to be a problem due to avail radiator size and a large block jammed in a shoe box, so the owner has to compromise and accept the shortfalls for owning something different I guess.

[nissannewby]

Do they use the newer injector pumps yet? (DS -4 ) Last I spoke to them they just put them in the corner and used the older type which isnt as good. (DB-2 ).

[PeeBee]

Do they use the newer injector pumps yet? (DS -4 ) Last I spoke to them they just put them in the corner and used the older type which isnt as good. (DB-2 ).

I don't know.

[Kimbo63]

Do they use the newer injector pumps yet? (DS -4 ) Last I spoke to them they just put them in the corner and used the older type which isnt as good. (DB-2 ).
DB-2 mechanical Matty BD are scared of any thing electronic lol

[Ropes]

Craig,

Re the catch can, just take what they give you and change it if it does not suit. I have a great HPD unit that I am going to swap around when I get time. The catchcan they supply is pretty basic as is its filtering, but what the heck, the fact that they put one on standard is in my books a good thing.


Yep, my plan was to see how the one they install performs and go from there.



Re the hydraulic brake booster, bugger me I am jealous. I asked Greg about them a month or so back and he knew nothing about them. If it is Marks Adapters unit it looks fantastic.

When you get it in please keep me updated as to how it goes as for what, around $1200, it is supposed to double your brake performance. You also need the stainless brake lines as well to cater for the extra pressure.

I have had my finger hovering over the purchase now button for months. Ill take it away until I hear back from you.


Close, $1,540 when you include the braided lines, which I think you'd be crazy not to do. You must have instigated Greg to do some research because I rang and asked him what power steering pump they install with the Optimizer about three weeks ago and he suggested doing it all at once would be the best plan so as to get it all engineered at the same time.



Re the electrics, yes I do tend to agree as the initial issue I had on receipt of my truck was silly things like earth lines not re connected and the main power cable from the battery to the fuse block only being finger tight, which subsequently vibrated even looser. Greg was ready to ship me a new alternator before I figured this out.

Kindest regards
Rainsey


Unfortunately for them, I am an Electrical Technician by trade and will make a point of crawling over every inch of the install before they get all of my hard earned :P

Cheers
Craig

[Ropes]

Craig,
I have just taken delivery of my GQ with the n/a optimiser engine. There were a couple of minor things with the finish but nothing to harp on about. I unfortunately experienced a couple of failures due to incorrect springs being installed, however despite it raising the blood pressure, BD have taken the load and replaced the components without hesitation. Couple of points worth mentioning to improve your outcome


I'm interested in why BD were changing your springs in the first place?

Was it to do with your GVM upgrade? Maybe a GQ thing?



1) I would keep the scope of work as 'standard' as possible. Variation from the typical conversion takes time and in my case didn't end well.


They only thing non standard I'll have them doing is the hydo brake upgrade and even that will only be in the engine bay, I'll have already installed the brake lines and new pads before I drop the vehicle off.

I'll be installing the cruise control when I get the car back, I only have to make sure the correct bracket is fitted when I pick it up.



2) when you get your quote, make sure it includes EVERYTHING' required for the conversion. I ended up with a list of replacement parts that really should have been disclosed at the time of the quote, so the price went up. I don't dispute the need, more the delayed disclosure of parts for what has been done many many times - stuff like power steering pump upgrade from 2.8 to 4.2, power clutch booster, upgraded alternator, front springs to name a few.


This is not my quote but it was based on this, the pamphlet they were handing out at the recent Perth 4WD Show.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee380/Ropes-GU/Misc/20161208_133948.jpg (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/Ropes-GU/media/Misc/20161208_133948.jpg.html)

I consider that fairly comprehensive.



3) I think the gvm upgrade is a lot easier in WA than to get than over here and I am having all sorts of dramas getting the WA certification recognised - in fact its likely the cost is going to be refunded for this and it will cost 2-3 times what BD charged me - Vicroads are painful.


That's a bummer and here I was thinking that WA was the nanny state :P



4) Check those front springs - and make sure they are at least what are termed 100kg rated coils (somewhere around the 19mm dia it looks). Unfortunately mine was fitted with 50kg units with serious consequences. I put this down to a simple error to be honest or a mix up at BD with their stocks. The ones currently in mine are being upgraded on monday - happy to share the final selection, however performance is something I will have to delay comment on. Also, make a point of getting BD to guarantee the front bump stops are configured to 100% not allow contact with the sump or the starter motor - they simply need to drop the coils out and pivot the bump diff upwards to a point where a mechanical stop can be determined. Don't trust the rubber bump stops to protect you - you need a block of steel/plastic to provide the travel restriction. Your typical driving might be different to mine, but rutted steep and shagged tracks are the norm here as against miles and miles of long haul and corrugations. This is another thing happening on monday - I punched a hole in the sump and smashed the tiebar off the starter. If you mention these points , Scotty and his crw will address them - I was caught out with wrong springs, so here is the lesson I guess.

Anyway, I love the grunt, coming from a 2.8TD and the torque is great. I think the conversion is worth the coin and have faith in BD regards their build quality.


Nope, similar driving, it's definitely not a shopping trolley.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee380/Ropes-GU/Misc/Now.jpg (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/Ropes-GU/media/Misc/Now.jpg.html)

Cheers
Craig

[PeeBee]

PM sent Craig

[FNQGU]

Here are another couple of pics for you. I found a little earthing issue when I pulled my thermostats trying to work out why my engine ran hot. This had nothing to do with it, but you may want to check yours... I had to buy a new housing and added an earth wire to prevent it from re-occurring.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1075_zpsbmmajssv.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1075_zpsbmmajssv.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1074_zps3cmxevas.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1074_zps3cmxevas.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1071_zpstoomsn6l.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1071_zpstoomsn6l.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1067_zpshlah5kzl.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1067_zpshlah5kzl.jpg.html)

[PeeBee]

Where did you run the earth wire from and to where- direct to battery?

[Kimbo63]

Here are another couple of pics for you. I found a little earthing issue when I pulled my thermostats trying to work out why my engine ran hot. This had nothing to do with it, but you may want to check yours... I had to buy a new housing and added an earth wire to prevent it from re-occurring.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1075_zpsbmmajssv.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1075_zpsbmmajssv.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1074_zps3cmxevas.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1074_zps3cmxevas.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1071_zpstoomsn6l.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1071_zpstoomsn6l.jpg.html)

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad197/BenKDJ/IMG_1067_zpshlah5kzl.jpg (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/BenKDJ/media/IMG_1067_zpshlah5kzl.jpg.html)
That looks a lot like a mix of different coolants to me

[FNQGU]

Maybe it was mixed coolant, not ruled out, but it would have had to have been mixed at Brunswick, which at the time I thought unlikely. I dropped coolant and changed it (high pressure flushing the block) after finding this when I pulled the thermostats at just over the two year mark. There was no sign of any other corrosion anywhere else but the coolant was dirty.

Just ran a wire from one of the thermostat bolts to the negative battery terminal as a precaution after being advised by Gryphon Engineering that they believed it was stray current related. A year later it was still nice and clean.

[peterc99]

Hi All BD ChevPatrol owners - if you have the aux battery relocated under the truck - check the battery box for water drain hole(s) mine wasn't drained. Also air filter box wasn't sealed (Greg said he had not been aware of this occurring?) good thing I noticed this before going through any deep water. Old Telegraph Track in June 16 - Swampy Creek crossing up to door handles!! fortunately only a short crossing - carpet got slightly wet - found the lower rubber boot for the 4WD transfer lever was torn (BD dropped out the gear box to upgrade 5th gear) although it could have been torn by a sharp stick from underneath, maybe. Small things, but too many small things - water in the air box would have killed the engine - the snorkel would not have helped!

[PeeBee]

Hi All BD ChevPatrol owners - if you have the aux battery relocated under the truck - check the battery box for water drain hole(s) mine wasn't drained. Also air filter box wasn't sealed (Greg said he had not been aware of this occurring?) good thing I noticed this before going through any deep water. Old Telegraph Track in June 16 - Swampy Creek crossing up to door handles!! fortunately only a short crossing - carpet got slightly wet - found the lower rubber boot for the 4WD transfer lever was torn (BD dropped out the gear box to upgrade 5th gear) although it could have been torn by a sharp stick from underneath, maybe. Small things, but too many small things - water in the air box would have killed the engine - the snorkel would not have helped!

I had a new gearbox fitted, complete with torn and perished rubber boots on the linkages to the transfer case - how was this missed? No answer.

[PeeBee]

Peter, back at square 1, replacement relay also started the same intermittent tricks, so swapped out a third, this time an 80amp unit just to confirm it wasn't a contact issue, and the starter is still reacting the same way, so its the starter motor for sure. I am waiting from one being sent from WA - on TOLL, supposed to arrive friday but didn't. Anyway, I am glad I totally excluded the relay. BD are also sending across a replacement sump kit later this week. Can't fault the service to be frank and they are standing up and taking responsibility for the issues without any pushback.

New starter installed, took 40 mins this time! All good, even sounds different to the previous one. Best thing I like is the absolute instant start, no cranking and groaning like the 2.8 used to do.

[PeeBee]

Guys, maybe you are not running coils???? Anyway I have the vehicle booked in on Dec 11 with Dobinsons to sort out the right front coils and try to resolve the bump stop issue. I was looking at bump stops on ebay but think I may need to go down the track of adjustable hydraulic or the sorts - any input appreciated. Has anyone had issues similar to mine of thumping the sump against the diff housing?

Spent 3 hours at Dobinson's Springs in dandenong today, having coils swapped around. Guys were great, tried 3 sets before settling on 100kg variable rate coils with 75mm nominal lift height, however this ended up being 50mm when the weight came on. Wire diameter is 19.5mm, and free height of 460mm, which was greatly different to those fitted by BD. Their coils were 40kg, 16mm wire diameter and free height of 400mm.

Ride is firmer and less wallowing on the road. Vehicle attitude was sitting 5mm down at rear, however didn't have the new triple bag Boss airbags installed at that point in rear.

Drove home, installed the new bags in about 3 hrs, and now the vehicle is sitting pretty. Currently is unloaded so hope this combo works out.

Also swapped out bump stops for longer units with spacers. Bump stops won't guarantee the sump crash issue I had, however I m working on modifying the front diff guard to reduce the profile above the height of the diff housing, and will sort out an absolute solid bump stop to make sure the sump does not get punctured.

Interestingly the super heavy coils originally was about to buy 2 weeks ago never got a look in - suspect they may have been too hard and tall for whoever bought them on their gu ute, just guessing.

So, will update as final combo evolves and will post photos. I can dig out the model number if anyone wants it.

[PeeBee]

Heavy Duty Trailing Arm bushes on GQ

Guys, I had a set of change over arms swapped out by Pedder about 12 months ago. the vehicle has done about 1000klm since the swap. I noticed yesterday the rubber bushes are starting to tear, probably due to the extra weight of the Chev. Has anyone changed their out for an alternate material to the standard black rubber bush, and where do I go to get this sorted in Melb SE? thanks

[Ropes]

Heavy Duty Trailing Arm bushes on GQ

Guys, I had a set of change over arms swapped out by Pedder about 12 months ago. the vehicle has done about 1000klm since the swap. I noticed yesterday the rubber bushes are starting to tear, probably due to the extra weight of the Chev. Has anyone changed their out for an alternate material to the standard black rubber bush, and where do I go to get this sorted in Melb SE? thanks

I'm not sure what you mean by change over arms?

Cheers
Craig

[PeeBee]

I'm not sure what you mean by change over arms?

Cheers
Craig

Pedders simply exchange the trailing arms with alternate like for like arms with new bushes already installed, so you don't have to wait for them to press the old bushes out and replace with new ones - they are simply 'exchange trailing or leading arms to the front diff. Just been down to see them and for a set of urethane bushes, they want $416 installed, drive in/drive out. After spending this 12 months ago, bit gun shy on the number at the moment.

[Ropes]

Pedders simply exchange the trailing arms with alternate like for like arms with new bushes already installed, so you don't have to wait for them to press the old bushes out and replace with new ones - they are simply 'exchange trailing or leading arms to the front diff. Just been down to see them and for a set of urethane bushes, they want $416 installed, drive in/drive out. After spending this 12 months ago, bit gun shy on the number at the moment.

Personally I'd be asking why they only lasted 12 months, 1000 km's is nothing.

The first set I changed out on my GU had done over 220,000 kms and weren't chewed out, they were just getting brittle and they were the original rubber ones.

You'll find the urethane bushes "noisey" due to being more rigid.

The weight of the Chev up front won't bother the trailing arms in the rear very much but the torque of the Chev might with the extra strain put on the twisting of the rear diff.

Likewise the weight of the Chev shouldn't bother the radius arm bushes but then I don't know what caused my 2nd set (see below) to go out like this either because I still have the ZD30. All I could say was misalignment because they were the 2 degree caster correction ones.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee380/Ropes-GU/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160617_084054.jpg (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/Ropes-GU/media/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160617_084054.jpg.html) http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee380/Ropes-GU/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160617_084144.jpg (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/Ropes-GU/media/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160617_084144.jpg.html)

Did you install the new trailing arms or did pedders? because from memory, they can be put in the wrong way..

Cheers
Craig

[PeeBee]

Personally I'd be asking why they only lasted 12 months, 1000 km's is nothing.

The first set I changed out on my GU had done over 220,000 kms and weren't chewed out, they were just getting brittle and they were the original rubber ones.

You'll find the urethane bushes "noisey" due to being more rigid.

The weight of the Chev up front won't bother the trailing arms in the rear very much but the torque of the Chev might with the extra strain put on the twisting of the rear diff.

Likewise the weight of the Chev shouldn't bother the radius arm bushes but then I don't know what caused my 2nd set (see below) to go out like this either because I still have the ZD30. All I could say was misalignment because they were the 2 degree caster correction ones.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee380/Ropes-GU/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160617_084054.jpg (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/Ropes-GU/media/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160617_084054.jpg.html) http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee380/Ropes-GU/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160617_084144.jpg (http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/Ropes-GU/media/Escape%20to%20the%20Cape%202016/20160617_084144.jpg.html)

Did you install the new trailing arms or did pedders? because from memory, they can be put in the wrong way..

Cheers
Craig

Thanks Craig, Pedders did the installation. I am at a loss as to them failing. Pedders won't warrant them, full stop - say the chev is too heavy for the standard bush. I won't be taking it back to them, now just looking for a suitable bush with a guaranteed result. This barge has a really easy life, so whatever goes in should last forever.

[nissannewby]

Cheap shit bushes will do that. Use genuine or someone who makes bushes to suit patrols and their intended use especially if looking at castor correction bushes. Superior do a fairly good castor correction bush as do arb.

Urethane are rubbish too.

[PeeBee]

Cheap shit bushes will do that. Use genuine or someone who makes bushes to suit patrols and their intended use especially if looking at castor correction bushes. Superior do a fairly good castor correction bush as do arb.

Urethane are rubbish too.

Interesting you say ARB as the set they installed for me in 1997 on this GQ lasted until 2014. I might just go back there, however the hard line sales pitch to upgrade the suspension from Dobinsons to ARB is going to be a pain - again.

[rainsey]

Thanks Craig, Pedders did the installation. I am at a loss as to them failing. Pedders won't warrant them, full stop - say the chev is too heavy for the standard bush. I won't be taking it back to them, now just looking for a suitable bush with a guaranteed result. This barge has a really easy life, so whatever goes in should last forever.

The chev is 80Kg heavier than the ZD30 and I was lead to believe it was a bout or only a tad heavier than the 4.2. What would peddles recommend if the engine was a 4.2 then?

Cheers
Rainsey


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[PeeBee]

The chev is 80Kg heavier than the ZD30 and I was lead to believe it was a bout or only a tad heavier than the 4.2. What would peddles recommend if the engine was a 4.2 then?

Cheers
Rainsey


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

No idea but they were recommending the urethane. I asked about grade and hardness, but it was catalog engineering, not application specific.

[rainsey]

No idea but they were recommending the urethane. I asked about grade and hardness, but it was catalog engineering, not application specific.

Hmm... sorry, I tried urethane in my last truck and I could not wait to get rid of them. I found them very hard hence not very resilient and the ride was crap.

The best think with suspension i have found for an off road vehicle is rubber.

Just my experience, but never agin.

Cheers
Rainsey



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[PeeBee]

Hmm... sorry, I tried urethane in my last truck and I could not wait to get rid of them. I found them very hard hence not very resilient and the ride was crap.

The best think with suspension i have found for an off road vehicle is rubber.

Just my experience, but never agin.

Cheers
Rainsey



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Well guys, like most things, you only get the truth when you look and do something yourself. It wasn't until I saw the note from Ropes that something twigged, so I had a look at the rubber inserts myself and there is nothing wrong with them, 100% fine. The 'mechanic' at Pedders in Dandenong told me the pass side was totally rooted and collapsed. What it appears he saw was the rubber element metal insert that has a piece of rubber profile missing. So apologies for the waste of time.

[rainsey]

Well guys, like most things, you only get the truth when you look and do something yourself. It wasn't until I saw the note from Ropes that something twigged, so I had a look at the rubber inserts myself and there is nothing wrong with them, 100% fine. The 'mechanic' at Pedders in Dandenong told me the pass side was totally rooted and collapsed. What it appears he saw was the rubber element metal insert that has a piece of rubber profile missing. So apologies for the waste of time.

Its sort of depressing when you go to ' professionals' for help and they seem to have no idea. If suspension is their bread and butter, how the photon could they make such a stuff up?



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[PeeBee]

Was speaking with BD today about parts arrival and gvm issues and found out Scotty has been taken to hospital, unsure how serious, but hope he recovers quickly. They don't expect him back before xmas.

One other thing, be aware the dipstick on the chev is held in place with silastic as a seal only, no clamp or threaded part. I have to change my sump and this little detail was disclosed when I could note work out how to pull the existing one apart. I guess it's a concern from a leak perspective as its below the oil fill line.

[PeeBee]

OK, here is the clearer shot of the bracket installed. I am guessing this arrgt would be similar to yours? Anyway, when you get home you can advise. I will do a tracing of the bracket anyway as i am trying to get this thing together and once its bolted in I don't want to touch it!69808

OK, have the dual vee pulley installed, bracket in place, belt sorted out and DCV mounted ready for the hose guy. Couple of picks. The DCV is mounted behind the winch, which gives good access for installation, direct to winch and at the right height for the reservoir. Hope this helps Phil703597036070361

[Brads GU3]

Has anyone installed a 4L80E kit from Brunswick diesel? How did the kit go? Easy to fit?

Cheers,

Brad

[PeeBee]

OK, have the dual vee pulley installed, bracket in place, belt sorted out and DCV mounted ready for the hose guy. Couple of picks. The DCV is mounted behind the winch, which gives good access for installation, direct to winch and at the right height for the reservoir. Hope this helps Phil703597036070361

Bit of an update. The 2" pulley did not have enough surface area and would slip when the pump was idling, probably a combination of diameter and material(aluminium.) I have since changed this to a cast iron pulley of 3" PCD and much better outcome. The speed is slower, however I made a simple throttle lever to increase speed to circa 750rpm and the line speed is in the range of 4.5 - 6m/minute which is fast enough for what I use it for, and it will do this all day without effort if required.

[PeeBee]

OK, back at square 1 again. Sump replaced, springs replaced, alternator replaced, added new Safebrake brake lines, hydraulic winch sorted and operational, working on mounting the additional 200a alternator and endless air compressor over the next week or so, then ready to start getting out again! Can't wait to be honest.

Only thing outstanding is valid GVM documentation from WA.

[katwoman]

I have a general Q. SteveO's got a G60 with a 350 chev in it, it needs replacing. Whats the best option ? I'm told we can get a crate motor landed in Thomastown ( melb) for about $2500.

[MB]

I have a general Q. SteveO's got a G60 with a 350 chev in it, it needs replacing. Whats the best option ? I'm told we can get a crate motor landed in Thomastown ( melb) for about $2500.
We used to get Chev's and Clevelands from Eagle Auto Spares on the South Gippsland hwy Dandenong, its been a long time so not sure what they're still like or pricing these days. They always had donks in stock for quick changeovers in the old days.

[MB]

http://www.eagleautoparts.com.au/eagle-contact.html

http://www.eagleautoparts.com.au/eagle-engine-gallery.html

[nissannewby]

I have a general Q. SteveO's got a G60 with a 350 chev in it, it needs replacing. Whats the best option ? I'm told we can get a crate motor landed in Thomastown ( melb) for about $2500.

Crate motor will be easiest. Pretty sure the mob MB mentioned still do quite a bit of this gear. They really arent that dear to rebuild either unless the block is shagged. Good time to take it out to 383 or 400ci....

[nissannewby]

And a turbo :p

[katwoman]

And a turbo :p

It's already turbo'ed.


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[nissannewby]

It's already turbo'ed.


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Really?
Where are the pics?
It doesn thave something like a turbo 350/400?

[AB]

Steve and matty should really meet up Kat

If you think you're broke now whoaaa mumma it would be epic

[katwoman]

Really?
Where are the pics?
It doesn thave something like a turbo 350/400?

Yeah. A 400. He had it at ABs last party.


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[nissannewby]

Yeah. A 400. He had it at ABs last party.


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Thats the transmission. I was talking about a turbocharger or even 2 being a v8

[katwoman]

Thats the transmission. I was talking about a turbocharger or even 2 being a v8

Oh. I dunno. I just drive it.


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[katwoman]

Oh. I dunno. I just drive it.
I don't have pics of engine bay. I'll do it tomorrow.

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[katwoman]

http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/101.jpg
It's the ute with the V8


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[PeeBee]

Mounted 200amp aux alternator onto the chev today. Was trying to fit the endless air in as well however I have to now move the difflock compressor to fit the endless air in - just wasn't up to it. The endless air belt drive will be off the aux alternator pulley, and it will be mounted below the aux alternator. Pics attached. Took a couple of nights scribbling a plan and then getting the materials. took about 7 hrs to fabricate and install - probably had the bracket on and off the car 20 times during the process. Will wire it tomorrow, direct to the 3rd battery in the rear, that drives the rear winch. Its a 200a/h/1300cca unit - huge.706357063670637

[rainsey]

On my Brunswick installed 6.5 the interface between the Intercooler and the inlet manifold is a cone looking tube with a kink in the end to accomodate the intercooler hose.

I am toying with putting in a larger intercooler but the height of this inlet is too high.

Does anyone know of a inlet connector that is lower than that which Brunswick use and will permit not only a larger intercooler but also a fan to be used?

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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[PeeBee]

On my Brunswick installed 6.5 the interface between the Intercooler and the inlet manifold is a cone looking tube with a kink in the end to accomodate the intercooler hose.

I am toying with putting in a larger intercooler but the height of this inlet is too high.

Does anyone know of a inlet connector that is lower than that which Brunswick use and will permit not only a larger intercooler but also a fan to be used?

Kindest regards
Rainsey


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Rainsey can you drop a photo of what you have? My engine is NA so totally different setup. My years in piping config may lead to a simple solution.

[rainsey]

Rainsey can you drop a photo of what you have? My engine is NA so totally different setup. My years in piping config may lead to a simple solution.

Incoming



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[PeeBee]

Incoming



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If you are talking about the black fitting, this can be made to any height and shape you need by a good sheetmetal worker - its a simple transition cone. I think BD have probably gone for a standard element, but this could be reduced in height to say the diameter of the inlet pipe to the manifold.

[rainsey]

If you are talking about the black fitting, this can be made to any height and shape you need by a good sheetmetal worker - its a simple transition cone. I think BD have probably gone for a standard element, but this could be reduced in height to say the diameter of the inlet pipe to the manifold.

Hey, Thanks for the feedback. Bottom line is that I just wanted to purchase one and keep the one I have as is so I can get the set up prepared without having much if any down time. Does anyone know where these inlets can be bought from?
Cheers

Rainsey

[PeeBee]

Hey, Thanks for the feedback. Bottom line is that I just wanted to purchase one and keep the one I have as is so I can get the set up prepared without having much if any down time. Does anyone know where these inlets can be bought from?
Cheers

Rainsey

I am in touch with a guy in Tamworth who has a GQ Optimiser conversion, originally n/a, then he turbo'd it locally. He has a monster top mount intercooler setup. I can get the name of the guys who did his turbo install for you. His installation was a bit of coin from memory, but you might be able to buy just the adapter. Making a custom is as simple as defining a couple of dimensions, then leave it to the sheetie. Anyway I will PM you his details, really nice old guy, very helpful.

[rainsey]

I am in touch with a guy in Tamworth who has a GQ Optimiser conversion, originally n/a, then he turbo'd it locally. He has a monster top mount intercooler setup. I can get the name of the guys who did his turbo install for you. His installation was a bit of coin from memory, but you might be able to buy just the adapter. Making a custom is as simple as defining a couple of dimensions, then leave it to the sheetie. Anyway I will PM you his details, really nice old guy, very helpful.

Thanks heaps for that. I have a guy that can probably build an alloy unit, more I think of it, this might be the way to go. In my naive thought pattern I just assumed they would be a stock item for the Chev diesel. If you do have the contact fo the Tamworth guy I would be appreciative.

Kindest regards
Rainsey

[PeeBee]

PM sent about 15 minutes ago.

[MB]

Finally got the tray back on the hybrid beast. Sliders & new bar next weeks project. Hoping I can catch up to you PBBIZ2 on the Caledonia mate :-)
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/157.jpg
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/158.jpg
Thanks again threedogs , Scotty's lock pins worked a treat mate :-) !
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/159.jpghttp://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/01/160.jpg


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[mudski]

Looks better now Mark.

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[rainsey]

Now that looks like a nice body conversion. Something I am wanting to do one day myself to enlarge the cab.

Out of curiosity what is the lock pins holding in?

Cheers
Rainsey


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[MB]

Cheers Rainsey, bought it from WA already converted by Laingley, they do a nice job that mob! The lock pins secure the tray on as I'm in the process of making multiple use trays for work, home and play. Installed a rear on-air Firestone sus system last year so I can leg under each tray with dolley wheels and deflate for quick drive out tray swap overs in the shed.

[PeeBee]

Looks good Mark. Certainly welcome. Looks like it will be 2 nights on Caledonia and 2 on the Mcallister on butcher country track as the fishing is probably going to be better on the bigger river

[rainsey]

Cheers Rainsey, bought it from WA already converted by Laingley, they do a nice job that mob! The lock pins secure the tray on as I'm in the process of making multiple use trays for work, home and play. Installed a rear on-air Firestone sus system last year so I can leg under each tray with dolley wheels and deflate for quick drive out tray swap overs in the shed.

Ha,

Thunderbird 2.


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[rainsey]

I have been reading with interest some old posts on an alternate forum re bonnet scoops and areas of high and low pressure on the patrol bonnet.

I'm toying with the idea of putting a bigger intercooler on an hence if I do this obviously a bigger scoop.

Which got me thinking, would a bigger scoop offer and advantage even before I enlarge the intercooler, that was until I read these posts.

The general gist was that the high pressure areas are at the immediate front and at the base of the windscreen and hence the scoop itself is not actually in the optimum place.

In reading one of the posts someone mentioned that the radiator fan does not actual work by sucking in air but rather creating a low pressure area that the incoming are follow in. Which got me thinking again ......

If the fan created a low pressure area at the inside face of the radiator resulting is a crap load of air coming into the engine bay, this flows directly over the inlet manifold and hence under the intercooler. Would there not then be a high pressure area under the intercooler as a result of the radiator fan and hence would this negate the pressure differential across the intercooler thus making the intercooler getting stuff all air flow through it???

Also, has anyone actually put a fan on the BD supplied intercooler, and if so, how the photon have you mounted it?

Kindest regards
Rainsey

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[MB]

G'day Rainsey, sorry no ones got back to you yet mate. Seems the only 6.5ers posting at the moment are Turbo&Intercooless NA's :-) Engine bay air pressures of big donks squeezed into smallish trucks has been one of my concerns for a while now. Finally about to install my NA reverse scoops wacky concept to increase theoretical flow through. I must admit the physics of top Chev/Trol mounted intercoolers with forward facing scoops has always confused me for fighting air pressure performance. Front mount IC is probably the go but again more hinderence to your already stressed radiator system. Kimbo mate, how does your beast run so perfectly as driven :-) http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/images/imported/2017/02/4.jpg


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[rainsey]

Hey, no probs mate. I'm not one to poke if there are no responses as I assume that no one has an answer. Would rather silence than smoke up my butt :)




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[MB]

Fair call mate :-) From my experience, theses donks are great, we just need to get that friggin hot air out somehow! Oh, and cool the oil too :-) !

[rainsey]

Fair call mate :-) From my experience, theses donks are great, we just need to get that friggin hot air out somehow! Oh, and cool the oil too :-) !

Spoke to Greg @ BD yesterday. He is shipping me over a couple of lower temp thermostats.

Also a bit of a weird statement from him yesterday also that I have not heard before was that he thinks I might be running a bit lean. He told me that when my engine was installed he thought it was a bit under powered but opted to not do anything. He has suggested that I ramp up the injector pump by an 1/8th of a turn.

Re the whole under bonnet heat thing, I think it has now become a personal challenge to understand the problem properly. I was reading a article yesterday where a guy with a turbo intercooler Peugeot put a manometer either side of the intercooler and the pressure differential was 0. Pressure at the top was the same as the bottom.

I'm tempted to buy a cheaply off flea bay and do the test myself with the existing set up.

The more I read the more I think that haphazard changes may not be conducive to positive results.

Cheers
Rainsey



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[PeeBee]

If the fan created a low pressure area at the inside face of the radiator resulting is a crap load of air coming into the engine bay, this flows directly over the inlet manifold and hence under the intercooler. Would there not then be a high pressure area under the intercooler as a result of the radiator fan and hence would this negate the pressure differential across the intercooler thus making the intercooler getting stuff all air flow through it???

Rainsey, this is a bit of a weird 'long bow' concept I think. The fan is pulling air in from the grill and radiator cowl, which is OK at low speed and then increases in efficiency as the inlet air from outside increases in velocity and is forced into the radiator and then the fan. The fan itself does not really have a duct to take advantage of the force feed - I think most of the air coming thru the radiator at high speed is probably bypassing the fan in shear, as the fan blades will only shift air up to a point - similar to a fan curve. Since the 'overflow of air' can't reverse, and its compressible, it gets forced around the blades by simple pressure. Does it pressurise the bonnet to the extent it negates the top mount - I think you have to remember that air will take the path of least resistance, and thats straight out onto the road below the vehicle. Batteries cook under bonnets due to high radiant heat loads, and if there was a high pressure you would think that would generate flow, BUT, the airflow is heading straight out under the vehicle and not swirling or scavenging air pockets from under the bonnet. I am throwing in some odd examples but they support the concept.
As the velocity of the vehicle increases, the pressure drop across the radiator increases to a point where the air flows over the bonnet and around the vehicle, like the bow wave. I have also read a number of articles on a couple of other forums and it seems the efficiency of front mount scoops disappears after about 40klm/hr. This makes sense when you look at wind tunnels and test patterns, as a negative pressure is probably generated directly near the scoop.

For me, the bonnet scoop gathers cooling air works up to a point, but as vehicle velocity increases, then the efficiency drops off. My supporting example of this is a mate who swapped his Air to air intercooler to a water to air intercooler on a Patrol 4.2 TD, and he says the performance is over a wider rev range than before, because he gets uniform cooling where the a/a drops off - thats my theory anyway.

I have purchased a pair of 'shark tooth style' bonnet vents that point to the rear. The vents sit flush with the bonnet. My theory is that I will supply an alternate path of air to that going under the truck, and hope to strip some heat out of the engine bay, which is cluttered. The negative pressure generated at speed over the bonnets will further increase the effect. At low speed I expect the hot air to simply vent out wherever it can, and since hot air rises, i have in effect added a couple of roof top doors to the bonnet.

Hope you are still awake by now, or not drowning in keyboard BS, just my thoughts on air flow. I have spent a lot of time in the ventilation, pressure flow and vacuum conveying arena, so am basing my thoughts around how I know air moves.

In summary, I don't think there is a net positive pressure under the body that would impact air to air intercoolers if top mounted, if anything they shoul impart better heat stripping flow from under the bonnet and. lower temps.

Interested to hear what you think!!!!

[rainsey]

Hey thanks for the input.... not drowning yet, but my thoughts..

Re the air taking the path of least resistance, I hear you and agree. My only concern is if the underside of the vehicle is a high pressure or low pressure area.

In my naive understanding I would have thought that it would be a high pressure hence causing air to be pushed up into the engine area. If this was the case it would exacerbate the pressure under the intercooler and hence make the efficiency less.

Again, without any quantitative measurements I am probably speaking out of my rear end.

I do not know what your vehicle is like but the under bonnet temps are bloody rediculous. I have also toyed with the idea of putting vents in to extract the heat but I'm now reluctant until I can get my head around the whole pressure thing.

I have been looking at Magnahelics on eBay and you can get some for the couple of hundred dollar mark. I am seriously thinking of getting one and just playing with it to see if I can map out the pressure areas around the bonnet.

Kindest regards
Graham


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[rainsey]

Oh. My other thought was in regards to the excessive heat in that hot air does rise. If this was the case it would exacerbate the whole under bonnet pressure issue .... i think..:)


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[nissannewby]

By some wool and sticky tape. Stick short lengths all over the bonnet and you will see what the air does.

AB did some testing like this a while back as he wanted to space the rear of his bonnet up to add flow. He used the wool idea and found after about 40km/h the wool was drawn in to the bonnet engine bay area.

[nissannewby]

Spoke to Greg @ BD yesterday. He is shipping me over a couple of lower temp thermostats.

Also a bit of a weird statement from him yesterday also that I have not heard before was that he thinks I might be running a bit lean. He told me that when my engine was installed he thought it was a bit under powered but opted to not do anything. He has suggested that I ramp up the injector pump by an 1/8th of a turn.

Re the whole under bonnet heat thing, I think it has now become a personal challenge to understand the problem properly. I was reading a article yesterday where a guy with a turbo intercooler Peugeot put a manometer either side of the intercooler and the pressure differential was 0. Pressure at the top was the same as the bottom.

I'm tempted to buy a cheaply off flea bay and do the test myself with the existing set up.

The more I read the more I think that haphazard changes may not be conducive to positive results.

Cheers
Rainsey



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Running lean will make things cooler in a diesel.

Lower twmp thermostats wont reduce your under bonnet temps. 2 extra cylinders pumping out heat will bring them up. I would be more inclined to be looking at reducing the radiant heat from the exhaust manifolds. This can be done in the form of coatings, wraps or heat shields.