OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 1012 of 1039 FirstFirst ... 125129129621002101010111012101310141022 ... LastLast
Results 10,111 to 10,120 of 10388

Thread: What did you do to your Patrol today!

  1. #10111
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eltham North
    Posts
    14,964
    Thanks
    8,074
    Thanked 10,393 Times in 6,052 Posts
    Mentioned
    419 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Possibly shorted out the transfer pump. I have heard of this issue over the years, from memory, some just installed an aftermarket pump and wired it in. How long did you disconnect the battery for? Just reading on the interwebs someone had to leave it disconnected for an hour for it to work.

    The sub tank sender units do have a level switch so when the tank is empty it will shut off the transfer pump? Might be a dodgy sender unit?
    Last edited by mudski; 27th November 2021 at 07:48 PM.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:

    Cuppa (27th November 2021)

  3. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many

     

  4. #10112
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,623
    Thanks
    2,020
    Thanked 7,120 Times in 2,921 Posts
    Mentioned
    164 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Shorted out transfer pump sounds like a possibility. Can thy short out internally? Whilst up on the Tele Track one thing I tried was running 12v direct from battery to pump. It ran, but far more slowly than I recall hearing running in the past.

    Can anyone suggest any further tests I could try to determine whether the pump has or is turning it's toes up?

    Can anyone point me to a suitable transfer pump which will fit into the same space to keep things nice & simple.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

  5. #10113
    Expert Cremulator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    438
    Thanks
    1,892
    Thanked 685 Times in 304 Posts
    Mentioned
    21 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Try this @Cuppa
    Pulling fuse #24 worked to reset the sub tank warning light. It also resets the odometer, which I was hoping to avoid, but it's certainly easier than removing the negative battery cable.

    From this thread "fuel system": http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=46132

    This would allow me to reset the warning light, push the switch and have the green light come on and the pump work for 15mins to 1hr.

    I haven't invested the time to try to fix mine, so the warning light is still on and I'm not using my sub tank, but I certainly don't need it like you do!
    Last edited by Cremulator; 27th November 2021 at 08:52 PM.

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Cremulator For This Useful Post:

    Cuppa (27th November 2021)

  7. #10114
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,623
    Thanks
    2,020
    Thanked 7,120 Times in 2,921 Posts
    Mentioned
    164 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Cremulator View Post
    Try this @Cuppa
    Pulling fuse #24 worked to reset the sub tank warning light. It also resets the odometer, which I was hoping to avoid, but it's certainly easier than removing the negative battery cable.

    From this thread "fuel system": http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=46132

    This would allow me to reset the warning light, push the switch and have the green light come on and the pump work for 15mins to 1hr.

    I haven't invested the time to try to fix mine, so the warning light is still on and I'm not using my sub tank, but I certainly don't need it like you do!
    Had the battery disconnected overnight & have also tried the removing the 7.5A fuse as per the thread you linked too. No difference. Am thinking now it more likely to be the sub tank sender which is the problem. If so it will have to wait. I'm not up to dropping the fuel tank myself. Once all the pain & discomfort from my recent time under the car has faded away I might try hooking up the transfer pump direct to a 12v source & try pumping into a container just because it is reasonably accessible & to tell me whether it is working properly with a reasonable flow rate. The fact that it sounded like it was running slower than usual out on the track may have been due to the, at the time unseen, partially severed wire.

    This control box thingo is well out of my comfort zone (& understanding), but I cant see why a failed or failing pump would cause the sub tank fuel gauge to not register anything, but I suppose anything is possible....... even a coincidence of 3 things 1. Failed or failing transfer pump 2. Failed sub tank sender unit 3. Damage (now repaired) to transfer pump wires.

    One thing keeps going around in my head. When I repaired the transfer pump damaged wires the sub tank fuel gauge worked - but only once. After switching off the ignition & back on again I have been back to sub tank warning light & no fuel gauge. Seems inconsistent with a failed sub tank sender unit...... but??

    Is there any way of diagnosing the sub tank sender unit without removing, & replacing/substituting? If not is sub tank removal on a Cab chassis a big job (or not) for a well equipped workshop? It's tempting to bypass the control box with a simple on/off switched transfer pump, but I need to be able to watch a gauge if I were going to do this.

    Come back Yendor! (For those who didn't know him - he was the best auto electrical resource imaginable , on this forum - offering step by step diagnosis on all things to do with Patrol electrics).
    Last edited by Cuppa; 28th November 2021 at 02:50 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

  8. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:

    Cremulator (28th November 2021), Maxhead (28th November 2021), mudski (28th November 2021)

  9. #10115
    The master farter
    mudski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Eltham North
    Posts
    14,964
    Thanks
    8,074
    Thanked 10,393 Times in 6,052 Posts
    Mentioned
    419 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Had the battery disconnected overnight & have also tried the removing the 7.5A fuse as per the thread you linked too. No difference. Am thinking now it more likely to be the sub tank sender which is the problem. If so it will have to wait. I'm not up to dropping the fuel tank myself. Once all the pain & discomfort from my recent time under the car has faded away I might try hooking up the transfer pump direct to a 12v source & try pumping into a container just because it is reasonably accessible & to tell me whether it is working properly with a reasonable flow rate. The fact that it sounded like it was running slower than usual out on the track may have been due to the, at the time unseen, partially severed wire.

    This control box thingo is well out of my comfort zone (& understanding), but I cant see why a failed or failing pump would cause the sub tank fuel gauge to not register anything, but I suppose anything is possible....... even a coincidence of 3 things 1. Failed or failing transfer pump 2. Failed sub tank sender unit 3. Damage (now repaired) to transfer pump wires.

    One thing keeps going around in my head. When I repaired the transfer pump damaged wires the sub tank fuel gauge worked - but only once. After switching off the ignition & back on again I have been back to sub tank warning light & no fuel gauge. Seems inconsistent with a failed sub tank sender unit...... but??

    Is there any way of diagnosing the sub tank sender unit without removing, & replacing/substituting? If not is sub tank removal on a Cab chassis a big job (or not) for a well equipped workshop? It's tempting to bypass the control box with a simple on/off switched transfer pump, but I need to be able to watch a gauge if I were going to do this.

    Come back Yendor! (For those who didn't know him - he was the best auto electrical resource imaginable , on this forum - offering step by step diagnosis on all things to do with Patrol electrics).
    Yes @Yendor aka Rodney was, well still is, a god at this stuff.

    To rule out the pump, can you "hard wire" power to the pump to see if its working? Then atleast you know if its the pump or something else. use some twin core wire direct from the battery and to the pump...
    Last edited by mudski; 28th November 2021 at 09:31 PM.

  10. #10116
    Patrol God
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,464
    Thanks
    5,438
    Thanked 5,804 Times in 3,026 Posts
    Mentioned
    169 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    @Cuppa
    Could this be the switch itself in the cab?
    I recall @the evil twin once talking about the switch being a culprit in many sub-tank issues.
    2005 TD42TI

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to Hodge For This Useful Post:

    Cuppa (29th November 2021)

  12. #10117
    ......... MB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Yarra Valley
    Posts
    7,909
    Thanks
    20,734
    Thanked 10,320 Times in 4,547 Posts
    Mentioned
    436 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Dust/moisture compounded cement like overload in my beloved very first 2000 GU leafy work ute sub tank dash switch was the culprit. Apologies if I haven’t read properly symptoms above but many early working GU’s I’ve known too also changed to aftermarket manual ON/OFF pump switches which unfortunately do take highway concentration to turn off again when visually transferred but faithful +\-


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. #10118
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,623
    Thanks
    2,020
    Thanked 7,120 Times in 2,921 Posts
    Mentioned
    164 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Hodge View Post
    @Cuppa
    Could this be the switch itself in the cab?
    I recall @the evil twin once talking about the switch being a culprit in many sub-tank issues.
    .
    Anything is possible. Could be more than one problem? I have decided that the first priority is to get the sub tank fuel gauge working again. Could be some time before that happens though - no auto sparkies around here - might have to wait until the end of the Wet. Rains have started. Can manage with a single tank for the time being.

    Finished fitting two new rear cameras & a monitor today. The old ones had become unreliable after almost 10 years & lots of corrugations. Fitted a 30 degree rear vision camera for driving (https://www.nassecurity.com.au/30-vi...-r-cs212w.html & a tiny 170 degree one (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183696421838) pointed at the tow hitch to assist with hitching up. A new 'mirror monitor' made up the package.

    One job left to do (excluding the subtank issue - arthritis makes under car work increasingly difficult). After 10 years of use our hot water system has developed a leak, cause is a lime scale build from all the outback 'hard' water in the tempering valve assembly. Replacement on it's way, hopefully on this Wednesday's mail plane. A messy job which will be good to get out of the way. We got by for a couple of months by bypassing the hot water system, but Mrstea does like having hot water. After that the car will be stored on (relatively) high ground to hopefully avoid the flooding when the Wenlock breaks it's banks.

    This is where we are. On the northern bank of the Wenlock, just the two of us at Moreton Telegraph Station.

    Moreton aerial view looking downstream from bridge.jpeg
    Last edited by Cuppa; 29th November 2021 at 11:02 PM. Reason: corrected link

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

  14. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:

    Cremulator (29th November 2021), MB (29th November 2021), mudski (29th November 2021), pollenface (30th November 2021), Stropp (29th November 2021), Touses (30th November 2021)

  15. #10119
    Expert pollenface's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    312
    Thanks
    37
    Thanked 144 Times in 106 Posts
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    2008 CRD Auto Wagon
    Factory snorkel, flashlube catchcan pro, 3" manta exhaust, hpd boost controller, dyno-tuned & egr deleted, 2x dual batt systems, 3 batteries, arb bullbar, cheap HIDs, stock lift/tyres, rear helper airbags

  16. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to pollenface For This Useful Post:

    MB (5th December 2021), mudski (2nd December 2021)

  17. #10120
    Expert Brissieboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    271
    Thanks
    64
    Thanked 308 Times in 157 Posts
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    .
    After 10 years of use our hot water system has developed a leak, cause is a lime scale build from all the outback 'hard' water in the tempering valve assembly. Replacement on it's way, hopefully on this Wednesday's mail plane. A messy job which will be good to get out of the way.
    You can fix that calcium buildup easily with descaler (as used to descale kitchen kettles etc). The valve will almost certainly be perfect except for that buildup hindering its operation. I have done this on domestic hot water systems a couple of times.

  18. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Brissieboy For This Useful Post:

    Cuppa (30th November 2021), MB (5th December 2021)

Page 1012 of 1039 FirstFirst ... 125129129621002101010111012101310141022 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •