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New addition mate. I've ran it once through the farmland nearby and on the highway. I see what you mean using it were it's busy (signs and trees near the roads edge). However were it's flat and open I was surprised how well both the distance and spread is.
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12/97 GEE YOU
4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.
Neaten up the wiring from the aux battery and added a 120amp circuit breaker. The wire to the left of the double Anderson is to connect the battery charger and is connected directly to the battery. The double Anderson is one for the fridge which has is own amp fuse and the other is solar input. This is also connected directly to the battery. Should I have the Anderson plug wired to the fuse block. As it is now it's got nothing to do with the circuit breaker.
Pinched the food prep board idea from mudski, I'm sure others have this too.
Next is to make a plate out of SS for the winch solenoid. It's just sitting there ATM.
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12/97 GEE YOU
4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.
That cable is way too small for a 120A C/B. If it is 4awg (which is just under 25mm2) it will be really pushing to be good for 80A at it's very best. That cable could go in smoke before that bresker even knows there is an issue. You'll need to either get a smaller C/B or up the cable size to atleast 50mm2.
To keep that cable what size breaker would be suitable. Is it depended on what's connected to the fuse block?
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Not overkill if there is a 120A breaker there. You need to select circuit protection according to cable size, so it protects the cable to prevent it burning up in the event of a fault.
I would only put a 60A breaker in.
Here's an awg-mm2 conversion chart for future reference.
Last edited by Ben-e-boy; 15th December 2019 at 07:49 AM.
Not overkill if there is a 120A breaker there. You need to select circuit protection according to cable size, so it protects the cable to prevent it burning up.
I would only put a 60A breaker in.
I agree with BB. Running a big cable is great for DC voltage drop, especially at low voltage. The accessories are protected by their own circuit fuse. You want to protect that supply cable from a dead short in my experience. In reality, the dead short condition would rise from 60 - 120amp in an instant anyway, however so does the temperature, which can burn a hole thru the insulation of the cable and even start a fire. I have extensive experience with smoke testing cables and a hard learnt lesson is never to under protect the power circuit. By putting in a fuse that is larger than the cable rating you are under protecting it. Another thing to consider is sustained heat in the cabin and also the duty rating of the cable insulation. If you are running the cable at near its limit, then you might want to upgrade the size also, however looking at the size of the accessory wires you have coming off the fuse block I suspect this cable might be ok.
. In reality, the dead short condition would rise from 60 - 120amp in an instant anyway, however so does the temperature, which can burn a hole thru the insulation of the cable and even start a fire.
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Those circuit breakers ( guessing based on another brand of Automotive C/B's ) probably have an instantaneous trip (<0.4sec) of 10×Rated current.
That is 10x120A=1200A. If your circuit is undersize, poorly jointed or whatever , the short circuit current wont be high enough to trip the breaker instantly,
Those circuit breakers ( guessing based on another brand of Automotive C/B's ) probably have an instantaneous trip (<0.4sec) of 10×Rated current.
That is 10x120A=1200A. If your circuit is undersize, poorly jointed or whatever , the short circuit current wont be high enough to trip the breaker instantly,
I am sure they will trip at a point well before the insulation is compromised is perhaps the message. They are a cheap generic design and I have them in use and they certainly have worked for me when i have replicated the short circuit fault.