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Thread: Monthly Winch maintenance

  1. #1
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    Monthly Winch maintenance

    I have a question regarding running the winch every month to heat up the engine and gearbox. Is it OK to put the gearbox in neutral and just run the motor for a while? When it is disconnected do the gears still turn? I.e. where does it disconnect from?

    The reason I ask is that to get enough room to run the rope out 10-15 metres I have to move another car or back the patrol almost to the street and leave it idling while I pull out the rope out.
    2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.

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  3. #2
    Expert the godfather's Avatar
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    What type of winch is it?
    Some have planetary gears inside that need to be engaged to turn (Ramsey, WARN, Super Winch etc).
    Others have a worm drive and wheel with a big arse dog clutch in them that really don't need to be engaged (Thomas, APE).

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    Rock Trol (14th August 2016)

  5. #3
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    Its a RUNVA 9500-Q (low mount) which I think has planetary gears.
    2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.

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    Expert the godfather's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock Trol View Post
    Its a RUNVA 9500-Q (low mount) which I think has planetary gears.
    Yes, these are a planetary gear winch. The gears run on the inside of an inverted gear attache to the drum. You really want these to turn occasionally so best to run them engaged. You don't need to run the rope right out though. Just enough to get the lube through everything. You need to do this particularly after a wet or muddy session.
    You don't need it to warm up the gear box section, just get the lube around it. Most of these have (dare I say it) cheap bushes and bearings that don't really like heat. The motors can do with warming occasionally to get rid of any moisture and keep the contacts clean.They are usually a short cycle motor. Not made for lengthy use unless you have a long run motor (motor with a fan). So warm it, don't cook it.
    I hope that helps.

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    Rock Trol (22nd August 2016)

  8. #5
    Patrol Guru Rock Trol's Avatar
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    Thanks GF, I ran it out 10 metres or so on the weekend for 4-5 times. Every thing was working as it should. I'll just keep doing that occasionally or after the winch goes under water.
    2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.

  9. #6
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Just putting this out there.

    Thinking about my winch which hasn’t been run more than 3 or 4 times since I’ve had the vehicle & never in a recovery situation. Whilst it’s always worked the control lever is very stiff to operate, but access to remove the winch is not great, so much so that I’d really prefer someone else to do it. It’s a Warn XD9000 winch fitted to what I believe to be a stock Nissan bullbar, with wire cable having been replaced with Dyneema rope. I need to get the stiff lever issue fixed before we finally take up the ‘gypsy lifestyle’ (so no great rush - any time this year) & wonder if there is anyone here who might be willing to do the job for me & have a break away from home at the same time.

    I’ve got a decent workshop environment & can feed you & accomodate you. (Plenty of room for a camper or van, or there’s a spare room in the house). In addition I’d be happy to put fair payment into your wallet, along with learning a bit about winch mechanics during the process. Location is just outside of Ballarat. Prefer someone I know.

    Alternatively could anyone hazard a reasonable guess as to what it might cost me just to take it to a local 4wd workshop?

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    Expert the godfather's Avatar
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    I would come and do it, but I live in WA.

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