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22nd December 2014, 03:34 PM
#51
Patrol God
Yeah I highly doubt I'd get anywhere with that mate. Even though the service manager admitted him self right in front of me they do one a week.
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22nd December 2014 03:34 PM
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22nd December 2014, 05:47 PM
#52
Legendary
![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png)
Originally Posted by
Hodge
Yeah I highly doubt I'd get anywhere with that mate. Even though the service manager admitted him self right in front of me they do one a week.
Sucks mate
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
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23rd December 2014, 11:54 AM
#53
Hi mate. My Di was an engine out job both times. I don't know about common rails. Seeing this thread makes me a bit uneasy again... Well keep an eye out on this.
Seems like the other patrol forum has a fair few crds go through this drama.
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The Following User Says Thank You to zoki For This Useful Post:
Hodge (23rd December 2014)
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23rd December 2014, 05:44 PM
#54
Patrol God
![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png)
Originally Posted by
zoki
Hi mate. My Di was an engine out job both times. I don't know about common rails. Seeing this thread makes me a bit uneasy again... Well keep an eye out on this.
Seems like the other patrol forum has a fair few crds go through this drama.
Thanks for the heads up mate. Few other shops Iv'e talked to, said it is not an engine out job, and quotes varied from 1800-2000 for a fix.
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23rd December 2014, 05:44 PM
#55
Patrol God
I just want to make sure I'm checking this the right way. The bottle circled (non pressurized one) is where coolant should be checked once engine is fully warm ??? I'm gonna keep a closer eye on it from now to see just how much I'm losing over a period of time ...
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25th December 2014, 11:08 PM
#56
The master farter
The amount your losing Eric I wouldn't waste anymore time worrying about it. The conclusion seems to be an expensive one, so just make it part of your routine checks to make sure you have coolant in the (NON) pressurized bottle.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
Hodge (26th December 2014)
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27th December 2014, 02:22 PM
#57
They didn't pull the engine out on mine. I was just going to leave it but it just got too bad a leak and figured a cooked engine was going to cost me a hell of a lot more 😥
2005 GU IV 3L ST-S Mods: 3in Zorst, chipped, Autron egt, boost and dual voltage gauges, pillar pod, dual battery, IPF round spoties, Nissan alloy Bullbar.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Badball For This Useful Post:
Hodge (27th December 2014)
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27th December 2014, 03:13 PM
#58
Patrol God
![Quote](images/misc/quote_icon.png)
Originally Posted by
mudski
The amount your losing Eric I wouldn't waste anymore time worrying about it. The conclusion seems to be an expensive one, so just make it part of your routine checks to make sure you have coolant in the (NON) pressurized bottle.
I'm not keeping an eye, and track on exactly how much I'm losing roughly. After a cold night, like last night for example, in the morning, there is heaps off coolant leaked out.
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31st December 2014, 12:22 PM
#59
Patrol God
Well, I think my problem just grew exponentially... Get out this morning to find this under the car. S#itloads leaked out, out of the same area. Safe to say that the hot days / cold nights we've been having didn't do too good on the metal and the gap widened. Happy new year to me!
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31st December 2014, 12:56 PM
#60
Patrol Freak
Damn mate, sorry to hear! That looks to be a fair amount of coolant that's been dropped overnight - qty wise, has that now completely emptied the reservoir tanks?
2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
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