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3rd April 2014, 08:03 PM
#1
The master farter
Time for new panels...
Well I have just recently added another 105AH AGM to my camper, not fitted yet, I bought a Redarc BCDC1225 25A DC to DC charger with inbuilt MPPT Reg I now need to get a new panel as my current solar setup won't work with the 1225. Stuff it! I'm doing it!
So My current Solar setup is 3 x 60W panels @ 180W. So I thought not to go any lower that if I can help it.
Been scouring fleabay for a local dealer to pickup from, so if theres any issues I don't need to post it back.
So here is what I have come up with...
1. Bosch 175W Mono panel, single panel and no reg @ $250
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSCH-175...item3f2254bd5b
2. Bosch 255W Mono panel, single panel and no reg @ $315 (Friggin' huge though!)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSCH-Cel...item4171229a9b
3. Bosch 170W Mono panels, Dual fold up 85W panels, but with reg and wiring @ $370
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BOSCH-12V...item3f229cd737
4. Rich Solar 200W Mono panel, single panel and no reg @$215
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....X:eRTM:AU:1123
Ideally I would like the dual fold setup for ease of storage but I haven't yet found them without the reg and wiring. The Bosch panels are obviously the better, but the Rich solar 200W panel has a very attractive price tag. But size is an issue, 200W panels are huge for camping. Even the single 175W Bosch panel is big... Plus from what I have been reading, Rich Solar are still pretty good.
This is where the experts step in...
Thanks.
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3rd April 2014 08:03 PM
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4th April 2014, 07:44 AM
#2
Travelling Podologist
I'm happy with the Rich panel I have mounted above the cab roof.
Unless you intend to permanently mount your solar, I suggest you will be much happier with smaller panels than any you are looking at. Lugging panels that size around, whether or not they are folding types, will quickly become a chore you can do without. A couple of smaller panels are easy enough to connect together & far easier to lift & store. When you are packing & unpacking every day it makes a big difference.
Don't worry too much about whether the panels have a regulator stuck on them. Those sort of regulators are cheap & nasty items, wrongly positioned & best discarded or bypassed. (Just disconnect the wires from attached reg to junction box & use your own heavier gauge wires from junction box to your bcdc mounted close to the batteries). They add very little to the cost of what are well priced panels anyway.
With two more manageable sized panels, just have a short cable on the back of each from it's junction box to an anderson plug & make another 2 into 1 anderson cable to plug into a single anderson on the solar end of the cable.
Last edited by Cuppa; 4th April 2014 at 08:01 AM.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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4th April 2014, 07:52 AM
#3
The master farter
I hear ya mate. Problem is so far all the dual panel kits I have found all come with reg and wiring.
Even looking at buying two smaller panels separate. They're not much smaller than the Bosch 175W panel.
Last edited by mudski; 4th April 2014 at 08:04 AM.
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4th April 2014, 07:58 AM
#4
Patrol God
why the big AH requirements, and yes it will be a PITB chasing the sun all day with a larger panel
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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4th April 2014, 08:03 AM
#5
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
mudski
I hear ya mate. Problem is so far all the dual panel kits I have found all come with reg and wiring.
I added a bit to my post above.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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4th April 2014, 10:01 AM
#6
The master farter
Thanks. I just removed the wiring that was there from the trailer and mounted the other battery...Removed the mains charger, so I figure its best to wire in the 1225 first, then just add the positive and negative output wires from the mains charger to one of the batteries? So then I have a mains charger too.
Just need to go get a change over relay and then figure out what the hell I'm doing.
The issue I see is where to mount the relay. As it needs an ignition wire. So if I mounted the relay in the trailer I need to run a wire from the ignition and into the trailer. Issues with that is finding a way so this wire can be plugged and unplugged from car to trailer.
The other way is mounting the relay in the car but then the panels need to connect to the relay. So then that means the car needs to be connected to the trailer whilst at camp. Which I don't want to do.
There is obviously a way around both these issues but how?
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4th April 2014, 10:54 AM
#7
Patrol God
that would be the white wire on a 7 core trailer wire wouldn't it
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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4th April 2014, 10:58 AM
#8
The master farter
Originally Posted by
threedogs
that would be the white wire on a 7 core trailer wire wouldn't it
Thats earth...
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4th April 2014, 11:02 AM
#9
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
mudski
snip...
The issue I see is where to mount the relay. As it needs an ignition wire. So if I mounted the relay in the trailer I need to run a wire from the ignition and into the trailer. Issues with that is finding a way so this wire can be plugged and unplugged from car to trailer.
Why not fit the Relay to the camper and wire the changeover relay sense wire (+ve of the coil) to the input of BCDC.
When no voltage is present at the BCDC Alternator input the relay will be "relaxed" and directing Mains powered 12 volts to teh batteries
When voltage is present it will be "energised" and therefore knows it is hooked up to the Car and switch.
P.S. Cuppas right. Big Panels are an absolute PIA, been there, done that, couldn't wait to not do that anymore
Last edited by the evil twin; 4th April 2014 at 11:06 AM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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4th April 2014, 11:05 AM
#10
The master farter
Here is the three diagrams in the book.
1. 12v setup...
12v config.jpg
2. Solar setup...
solar config.jpg
3. And 12v with solar...
12v and solar.jpg
The only way around NOT having the relay in the cab or even in the trailer I see is to run a manual switch in the trailer for the blue wire to manually connect to the red wire. So when you hit the switch, picture 2 becomes picture 1.
Am I assuming this is correct?
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