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Thread: 24v ???

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    Unhappy 24v ???

    Hi guys,
    I have a 24V safari (circa '88). I would love to see the EL.pdf for a 24V GQ Y60.
    I have 2 copies of the (full manual ???) and they both claim to be for all models 87 - 96 but it would appear that Nissan never actually manufactured a 24V Safari.

    Can anybod assist??
    Thanks
    Dave.
    Last edited by CptClinac; 25th October 2012 at 06:07 PM. Reason: model not submitted - another 'senior' moment

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    Administrator AB's Avatar
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    Hey mate I see you asked this question a while back too but no joy.

    If anyone comes across it then let us know and I'll put it up here for everyone.

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    The 24v models is what was imported from Japen to New Zealand, my understanding is that the 24v thing was more to do with them being a mil spec. I have looked around alot in the last 6months for a manual for the 24v and dont think one was ever made sorry

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    closest ive seen is what Yendor showed me from a russian issue manual
    Mines an ex import from japan,we very rarely got 12v safari's...not sure on the patrol though?
    if it aint hurting,it aint working.....1991 y60 LWB 24 volt TD42 Safari

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    Expert kiwijase's Avatar
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    what did you need to know,I can comnpare mine if any help at all
    if it aint hurting,it aint working.....1991 y60 LWB 24 volt TD42 Safari

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    That's an affirmative there.
    No joy at all.
    I now have 3 copies of the manual from 3 sources.
    All have similar details.
    None allow for 24V systems.
    As far as I can see the discrepancies are quite simple and obvious.
    The main one is that the major starter & alternator specs are irrelevant.
    But there is also a rather tricky one involving the supply of 12V for dash instruments.
    From my poking around there are 3 low power feeds in the dash area.
    1, always live
    2, live on ACC
    3, live on park lights.
    These go to
    the infamous clock
    the radio
    (elsewhere?????)
    The voltage of these lines are 13.8V aprox.
    My 50W radio dims the clock alarmingly even at low levels so the current delivery of the supply is rather limited.
    I have no idea where the converter is, but I have found an interesting box just forward of the jack recess left side rear. The manual doesn't show any gizmos in the area.

    So - the good news is...
    If your clock is irepairable in a (fabled) 24V truck - you can get one from a wrecker from the multitude of 12V trucks about. (Hopefully you can find one that does go).

    Thanks for your thoughts
    Dave
    (PS cynacism is alive and well)

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    Thanks Kiwijase & Tank,
    I'm just a fussy old engineer who likes his documentation to have relevance to his equipment.
    I did find it frustrating when I was fitting a new radio and had to reverse engineer the machine.
    And fixing the infamous clock too.

    But all is under control again, thanks
    Dave

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    Quote Originally Posted by CptClinac View Post
    That's an affirmative there.
    No joy at all.
    I now have 3 copies of the manual from 3 sources.
    All have similar details.
    None allow for 24V systems.
    As far as I can see the discrepancies are quite simple and obvious.
    The main one is that the major starter & alternator specs are irrelevant.
    But there is also a rather tricky one involving the supply of 12V for dash instruments.
    From my poking around there are 3 low power feeds in the dash area.
    1, always live
    2, live on ACC
    3, live on park lights.
    These go to
    the infamous clock
    the radio
    (elsewhere?????)
    The voltage of these lines are 13.8V aprox.
    My 50W radio dims the clock alarmingly even at low levels so the current delivery of the supply is rather limited.
    I have no idea where the converter is, but I have found an interesting box just forward of the jack recess left side rear. The manual doesn't show any gizmos in the area.

    So - the good news is...
    If your clock is irepairable in a (fabled) 24V truck - you can get one from a wrecker from the multitude of 12V trucks about. (Hopefully you can find one that does go).

    Thanks for your thoughts
    Dave
    (PS cynacism is alive and well)
    If your's is a wagon, I think this will be the factory reducer.

    Good chance your gauges are also 12 volt (except voltmeter).

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    Agreed.
    Yup mine is a high top wagon.

    Thanks all
    Dave

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