from 3lt to 4.2lt

[PattyWgnOwen]

I thought about it some more. The engine might not need engineering, but I would suspect that the new engine mounts probably will?
The engine number will pick up on the rego when you change it.
The turbo and intercooler mods will need engineering if the specific engine number does not reflect the digits of these add-ons?
ie: if you change from a non turbo td42 to a later model factory td42ti you prob not need mod plate?
different rules for each state, but the ADR carries across so tehre may be somethign in there you can read up on?
if not, just ring transport authority - they will usually be happy to answer your questions.
Owen.

[PattyWgnOwen]

hey I just saw an advert go up on the other forum from Bexi - engine mounts and chassis mounts cut from a GQ - not sure how much - did not go and look at the advert?

[audiostu]

I did the conversion myself on the driveway. Purchased some 4 bolt mounts for a 4.2 off a GQ( same rails as GU ) $100 and carefully cut them off the old rails with a grinder, a plasma cutter will do a great job as well. Cutting off the old 3 ltr mounts is to be done carefully so as not to damage the rails, in QLD a engineers mod plate is all that is required, about $100 for blue plate. All the hard work for the conversion ADR business is already taken care of as nissan offered this motor in the model range. My Gu is a 2000 model so I used a 2000 GU TD42T spec motor so turboing and intetcooling is all good as the 3ltr DI motor was also intercooled and turboed. I had an extra mod code added to the mod plate for the non factory garrett turbo install just to be sure. LA1 and LA2 are the codes on my blue plate. I have heaps of info on the conversion, plus hundreds of pics as i went. Hope this helps, do it, you will wonder how you ever lived without the 4.2t.Cheers. Stu.

[audiostu]

A note for the taco, I sent my altenator into the auto sparkies and had it refurbished with a wire run off one of the diodes to give the pulse for a aftermarket VDO tacho which I installed. Works a treat.

[PattyWgnOwen]

my factory tacho works fine and I did not need to add any wires to the alternator.
Perhaps my alternator is different.
I was told that a module was installed for speedo and tacho - sounds plug and play to me.
You shoudl call Killer Kustom Kables in Qld as they do wirinf looms for these all the time.
my engine came out of a 1991 GQ wagon - factory auto model.

[Fity]

A note for the taco, I sent my altenator into the auto sparkies and had it refurbished with a wire run off one of the diodes to give the pulse for a aftermarket VDO tacho which I installed. Works a treat.

Do all the ignition lights go out without a tacho signal? I would have thought something would need to be fed into somewhere keep it happy. Did you unplug the ECU?

Killer Kustom Kables do make a harness, but they want a lot of $$$ for it.

[PattyWgnOwen]

i have no electrical issues, unlike so many others on the forums, so $300 for a KKK harness does not seem like bad value to me at all?

[Fity]

i have no electrical issues, unlike so many others on the forums, so $300 for a KKK harness does not seem like bad value to me at all?

I thought I read someone post that the KKK harness was something like $800? I can do all the wiring if that is all that is needed, but the adaption of the sensors is the unknown bit ie, water temp, glow plug, and tacho sensors

[PattyWgnOwen]

I thought I read someone post that the KKK harness was something like $800? I can do all the wiring if that is all that is needed, but the adaption of the sensors is the unknown bit ie, water temp, glow plug, and tacho sensors

Hey mate - you are correct - I went back to check the original quote. I paid $950 which included removal of my loom, postage, creation of the new plug and play loom, and the necessary modules to interface with all of the bits and pieces.
I was quoted another $300 for something else that I did not end up needing. Still worth giving KKK a call - he is a forum member and will be able to explain what he does and how the modules are used to interface between the ECU and the new engine signals. Lots of guys complain about engine lights not going off or tachos not working, so even though it is a bit more expensive, could be worthwhile to be sure that your computer is reacting properly to signals?

as I said, i do not have any electrical issues.

[Fity]

Thanks Mate. I should stop asking how much, it keeps going up.

I can adapt the harnesses and whatever. I will give them a call to see if I can buy the bits and assemble it myself. Do you have a number for KKK? I can't find one.