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Thread: Fitting pyro guage to dump pipe

  1. #11
    Expert Rip'n'Shred's Avatar
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    Hope this helps somewhat. It's a scotts rods dump pipe.



    GU IV 2006 4.2 TDi wagon

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  3. #12
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    Scrubrat what type of dump pump you fitting it to ? If it's cast like the TD42's just drill and tap it to say 1/4 NPT and use a Swagelok fitting S/S to secure the thermocouple. Or if it's one of the exhaust type dump pump get a shop to weld a fitting onto it. I have seen those hose clamp type thermocouple's and due to the heat cycling the hose clamp didn't last to long only 6 or so months. Also had they had to retension the clamp a few times again due to heat cycling of the dump pipe, he finally did the weld on adaptor and S/S Swagelok fitting.
    Try and get thermocouple as close as you can get to the turbo outlet.
    Don't stuff around with cheap catch cans that claim a lot but do bugger all, get the Provent 200 made by Mann & Hummel.
    Last edited by Snafu; 27th January 2012 at 11:37 PM.

  4. #13
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    I got mine fitted with I had a custom 3" exhaust made.

  5. #14
    Advanced thewarrens's Avatar
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    its better to fit when you do your dump pipe

  6. #15
    Expert grimace's Avatar
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    g'dasy scrubrat, you are right the heat shield isa bitch to get off but it can be done. i did mine not long ago to fit a new exhaust system and it took longer to get the shield off than to fit the entire exhaust, anyway after a few choice words and a bit of trial and error this is how i managed it. first after getting all the bolts out and i don't know why but on the left side of the shield towards the fire wall there are 2 bolts next to each other the one on the left (if your facing the front of the truck ) comes out but the other one does not. spent an about half an hour working that out alone! anyway all bolts out then it is a matter of pushing the shield back enough to clear the vacume thingy on top of the turbo (not sure what it is ) then lift it up and over pulling it towards the front of the truck and once you have done this it becomes a lot easier to move around, then it is just a matter of manuevering it out through the pipes and what ever else is in the way... hope this helps....cheers....
    2008 GU 2" LIFT, GME UHF BLACK KING WHEELS, SAFARI SNORKEL, LIGHTFORCE 240' KAYMAR DUAL WHEEL CARRIER STEINBAUER POWER, beaudesert 2 3/4 system, runva 11,000 comp winch.....

  7. #16
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    The supercheap catch cans won't do anything unless you baffle them.
    Something similar to this.
    http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how...nlet-tube.html

  8. #17
    Advanced scrubrat's Avatar
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    Managed to get the heat shield off yesterday,actually it came off easier than I thought ,now to get it back on after I've installed the pyro. As for the catch can I'm looking at the one cross country 4x4 sell as part of their anti hand grenade kit.Has anyone got any feedback on that one.

    Cheers

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    Scrubrat.
    I looked at a CC4x4 but ended up going the Provent 200 made by Mann & Hummel do to all the good reports and MH's reputation.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scrubrat View Post
    The autometer pyro has the clamp and ceramic washer so hopefully won't be to hard of a job to install.I've heard the heat shield is a bit of a bugger to get off tho. As for the catch can,I have heard that a complete kit is up around $300,but then again it's a small price to pay for piece of mind.
    Cheers tony
    WHICH AUTOMETER GAUGE have you purchased? I just grabbed the 4344-M gauge and it comes with a 1/8"Npt fitting, so in goes the bung.

    Also what are you paying $350 for?

  11. #20
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    I've decided to go with the Provent 200 as well. I also have the 4344-M gauge.Took the dump pipe off yesterday, now to get the fitting welded in.

    FullFlxd : Someone suggested that I get a new dump pipe with the bung already installed for about $350 , can't justify spending that sort of money when the pipe has to come off anyway and I have a bung to be welded on.

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