Stedi LED lights

[gjones]

I've done two Traxide upgrades over the years. Last one was on the 2004 GU, same as yours (Telstra Pod). Headlight and driving light version. Very happy with the results. Original headlights but with Philips Plus 50 globes. I made up a bracket to fit in the space used by the battery vent (cooker). A squeeze, but enables me to remove the whole assembly and still have it in circuit, if I need to fault find. The Lightforce led drivers also a big improvement over the original IPF's. The Traxide wiring guides are easy for me to follow but I was a telcoms tech before retirement, so your mileage may vary :-) JonesyIMG_3694.JPG

[the evil twin]

snip... Current globes are 60/55w PHILIPS X-treme Vision Plus +130% Halogens, which might be ok once I have a new loom in & if so I'll get some 100 watters when they need replacing.

I think you will find the +130 awesome with a decent loom.

I ran 100 watt globes a couple of times over the years and IMHO they aren't worth it.
The extra current required (almost double) kinda reinvents the original issue of too much voltage drop.
The better loom helps but you risk melting the earth side of the headlight plugs or the reflectors on some inserts (fairly common issue if you search on the forum).
Was hard to be absolutely sure but I had a feeling the 100 watters had a much shorter globe life
Finally, IMHO the +100 to 130 Philips, Osrams etc in the standard 60/55 watts were equal to the 100 watt globes for useable light.

[the evil twin]

Also FWIW...

Over about 8 years and 3 Patrols I reckon i tried just about every possible option for lights, 100 watt headlights, hid headlights, led bars, led driving lights, hid driving lights etc.

By far the best and most comfortable option I settled on for remote touring was...

Upgraded Headlight Loom

+100 globes 60/55 (not much diff between +75 to +130 to the human eye but at least +75 needed)

Roof Light Bar for outback, dirt, sand, gravel etc (pref curved but otherwise with good spread) which I had a 3 way switch (off, hi beam only, on) and would often drive with it "on" when outback. This was great as the down angle fills in the ruts, wombat holes etc so you can see the bottom but biggest advantage is that it is a huge pool of light all around the front rather than a focussed pool at the front which draws the eye away from what is happening out to the side which is where the cattle, camels, roos etc usually are.

Twin HID years ago but def LED these days, Bull bar Driving Lights (hi beam only) for the bitumen.

The roof bar was the ducks guts, you could tonk along the tracks etc on the way back to camp after dark or whatever and it was just like driving in the day almost as far as picking lines or dodging potholes etc.

Each to their own in the end but that is what worked for me and nothing else came close (even the quad mounted IPF's that came on roof rack of my Ute when I got it were not as "nice" to drive with as the LED Bar I replaced them with).

[the evil twin]

On a similar point... When it comes to critters and avoiding them at night here is my theory.

The brighter and the more "out front" the light is, the more it causes critters to freeze as if they are in the beam of a hunting lamp.
The closer you get with the big scary noisy people monster then the light out to the side lessens quite rapidly and they lose the fixation until at that last few moments when the light is minimal, the scare factor maximal and the critter does the Usain Bolt impersonation.

When I was living in the Territory it wasn't uncommon to flick off the Driving Lights for a couple of seconds when you saw critters and when you put them back on cattle esp, would be moving off or turned and looking back at you over their quarters or wallabies would be legging it... didn't seem to work on Water Buff tho, only thing that moved them was .303 :-)

[antoninoprobe]

As far as I know, Lightforce drivers now work not only with original bulbs from cars or dashboards but with a good manufacturer Vont.

[NataleeEstrada]

Oh, I used to get LED car lights from them. It was one of the worst monetary investments I ever made. When I installed it in my car, that light worked well. But after a few days, it failed and would not turn on. I took it to a handyman and he sort of fixed it, but I had to take it back to the handyman a couple of days later. This went on and on until I bought the backlight . I can already call this one great light. It has a remote, and it can light up in several modes. And when installed, it doesn't interfere with the other wires in the car.

[Cuppa]

Oh, I used to get LED car lights from them. It was one of the worst monetary investments I ever made. When I installed it in my car, that light worked well. But after a few days, it failed and would not turn on.

A strange first post.

If you are referring to Stedi LED's, my experience is very different to yours. My light bar has now been on the car for over two years & all I can say is that I wish I'd bought one years earlier. It is mounted under the top rail of the bullbar, set back far enough with the Stedi brackets to be legal, & has been through several river crossings where the lightbar has been under water.

I would hope that if yours failed so soon after installation that you would have had it replaced under warranty, unless the failure resulted from the installation.