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13th October 2022, 06:52 AM
#11
The master farter
Originally Posted by
MB
Far from a Builder meself @
mudski Mate but if near crumbling masonry potential edges, chemical anchors after careful tile water lubricated drilling and vibration hammering once through the pretty stuff could hopefully work?
Expansion masonary type bolts are horrible near edges, chemical anchoring compounds of say allthread are available stronger than what they’re binding too…generally MPA wise
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I've heard of using chemical compounds but not zero about it, where to buy it, how to use it etc. I will look into this. Thanks.
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13th October 2022 06:52 AM
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13th October 2022, 06:57 AM
#12
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
I reckon you should have put brackets in before laying the pavers. Maybe you'll need to lift pavers & bolt some stirrups (or brackets) to the concrete & possibly need to cut the pavers around the bracket, or cut circular holes in the pavers & then fill the hole around the stirrup with concrete up to the level of the top of the pavers? The bottom of the post will then sit just above the paver with no risk of rotting out over time. I reckon having the stirrups on the edging would look look naff. You could use a mix of rectangular (rather than square) posts (ie 90 x ??) & if needed to get the aesthetic balance right either some thicker battens to attach the Colorbond too, or spacers attached to the posts to attach the battens to.
Attachment 86050
Crap drawing but hopefully you get what I mean. I'm sure there are plenty of alternatives but this is what I came up with. Just that I wouldn't choose to bolt to the pavers. I suppose you could drill right through the pavers into the concrete & use longer bolts? It'd be easier than what I've drawn.
Attachment 86051
Hindsight is a wonderful thing mate. We had so much on our minds when builds were going on, a few things were forgotten about unfortunately. Moreso the funds simply ran out for anything extra at the time. I thought about doing as your pic but haven't decided as yet.
Thanks.
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13th October 2022, 07:01 AM
#13
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Hodge
Way out of my knowledge depth here Mark.
But how about "somehow" utilizing those H retaining posts. Somehow extending them upwards. Neatly attaching a bracket of some type from the outside of the wall, upwards and then securing the fence to those?
I googled H retaining post extension and a few options popped up... Example below.
Just brainstorming here.
Attachment 86053
This was on my mind but welding a piece to the outer flat side. This way is more work but would give better strength. I'd have to remove the top sleeper if I were to go this way. I will investigate this more when the rain stops. Thank you.
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Hodge (13th October 2022)
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13th October 2022, 06:36 PM
#14
Patrol Freak
Mark, Ramset make a chemical anchor systems (Chemset 101 and 502) and they do supply in spin capsule which would be best option for you. For use of the Ramset cartridge you need their dispenser (costly for small jobs).
Check the video and look for the spin capsules, the 101 type chemical is contained in a class type enclosed tube and the kit also contains threaded studs and nuts. On impact of tube by steel threaded stud the tube shatters and mixes the chemical and cures with stud in situ.
I have used Chemset to secure thread rod in masonary type walls to secure post brackets and the top plate to secure/hold down roof trusses.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2iKgMKmFiM
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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mudnut (13th October 2022), mudski (14th October 2022)
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13th October 2022, 07:32 PM
#15
Bitumen Burner
Well, build it dear Liza, dear Liza. lol - with all due respect.
Winner of 'Best 4 x 4 ' at the 2017 Albany Agricultural Society Inc - Town n Country Ute Muster.
Ex Telstra - 2005, 4.2 TDi ute -with pod and more fruit than a grocery shop.
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14th October 2022, 07:13 AM
#16
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Bidja
Mark, Ramset make a chemical anchor systems (Chemset 101 and 502) and they do supply in spin capsule which would be best option for you. For use of the Ramset cartridge you need their dispenser (costly for small jobs).
Check the video and look for the spin capsules, the 101 type chemical is contained in a class type enclosed tube and the kit also contains threaded studs and nuts. On impact of tube by steel threaded stud the tube shatters and mixes the chemical and cures with stud in situ.
I have used Chemset to secure thread rod in masonary type walls to secure post brackets and the top plate to secure/hold down roof trusses.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2iKgMKmFiM
Excellent, thank you.
So far for me, I think I will get the fence brackets that bolt or weld to the H posts. I will have to remove the top row of sleepers I know, but drilling so close to the edge has got me a little concerned.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
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14th October 2022, 01:54 PM
#17
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
mudski
Excellent, thank you.
So far for me, I think I will get the fence brackets that bolt or weld to the H posts. I will have to remove the top row of sleepers I know, but drilling so close to the edge has got me a little concerned.
I would look at utilising the H posts as well (depending on how they are secured _ in ground with concrete / yes). Maybe use some angle section or similar "profiled up" or off the shelf brkts, so to support the cypress post in the two vertical direction. Structure needs to be stayed /angle braced some how and also to be prevented from pushing out.
Could secure brkt to cypress post with say two thru bolts _ thru the same vertical axis 100mm apart (could use threaded rod or bolts with flanged purlin nuts (look good)
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/fasten...0mm/p/01606956
Purlin bolt are nom 30mm length, it is the nuts I am suggesting here with threaded rod (many options out there).
To attach the rails, bugle batten screw to back of post or angle brkt into side of post and attach rails for infill with wall cladding (only suggestions mate).
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bidja For This Useful Post:
mudski (14th October 2022)
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14th October 2022, 02:25 PM
#18
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Bidja
I would look at utilising the H posts as well (depending on how they are secured _ in ground with concrete / yes). Maybe use some angle section or similar "profiled up" or off the shelf brkts, so to support the cypress post in the two vertical direction. Structure needs to be stayed /angle braced some how and also to be prevented from pushing out.
Could secure brkt to cypress post with say two thru bolts _ thru the same vertical axis 100mm apart (could use threaded rod or bolts with flanged purlin nuts (look good)
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/fasten...0mm/p/01606956
Purlin bolt are nom 30mm length, it is the nuts I am suggesting here with threaded rod (many options out there).
To attach the rails, bugle batten screw to back of post or angle brkt into side of post and attach rails for infill with wall cladding (only suggestions mate).
Can you come down and do it for me? Sounds like you know what your doing... I'll have to read what you said 30 times to let it sink in.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
Bidja (14th October 2022)
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14th October 2022, 02:52 PM
#19
Patrol Freak
If you remove top sleeper as u suggested, will the paver handle that without damage?
Guess you could re bead gap with coloured sikaflex.
2008 GU WAG ST Manual CRD - To do the job
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14th October 2022, 02:54 PM
#20
Rotaredom
I assume this is for some fark tard office pen up his / her ass pen pusher council reg bullshit?
Run Stainless Steel wire from a mount from you house bricks 2 where ever u need 2 end it
OR
Glass fencing
What the width of the concrete sleeper?
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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