NATS Immobilizer light staying on??

[drgtr]

Found this infor for the zd30

When the NATS plays up in the ZD30s it normally a faulty IMMU (the part that wraps around the ignition switch and reads the chip in the key). You can easily replace this part yourself.

owever there are a few things you can check first.
- Have you tried a spare key as they have a security chip in them.
- A common fault on the Z30 is the aerial ring in the key barrel.
- Worst case scenario you should be able to get your IP modified for about $400 to solve the issue.

[Peter Harrison]

Hi, I am having the same NATS problem on a 1997 2.8 but the previous pics aren't my pump, heres a pic of my pump so where do I go from there i.e.which bit do I hack off.Nissan Pump 2.jpg

I found this Injector pump stop solenoid GO GU RD28 & TD42 on line, so do I hot wire this??Patrol Solenoid.jpg

[0-TJ-0]

Apologies for dredging up an old post but I remembered reading this recently and think it's a mod worth doing even if it's still working okay.

I took the nats off my old pump as I'm going to try get some dollhairs back out of it. I assume the unit on the pump is matched to the key and will be of no use to the next owner. Took a couple of snaps that might help clarify what's going on and what you're trying to achieve smashing bits off down in the dark.

The large black part is the bit you're trying to smash off..
20190211_204449.jpg

Once you get in behind it there's a wire heading back to the solenoid. This needs to see +12v when the key is at the ON position.
20190211_204517.jpg

If you cut or break the wire too short don't panic. It's a bit fiddley on the car but there's a little nut you can just attach a new wire.
20190211_204555.jpg

I like pictures and I know this would help me. Good luck and happy smashing.

[mojo53]

Hi Yendor

Yes mate i always use the same key, and as for little red flashing lights on top of the dash, i don't recall seeing one unless it's hidden under the dash matt, anyway i had to get the car towed home so now it's in the shed i will be able to check out the fuel system right through to eliminate that issue and look under the dash matt for red flashing lights and hope NATS is not the problem.
One other thing is where is the fuel pump and is it electrical or mechanical as i have never had to deal with any fuel problems before, come to think of it i brought the car with approx 28K on the clock (now 210K)and never had any problems what so ever in the 14 years i have had it so i cannot complain, and thanks to everyone for the suggestions now it's in the shed i can have a proper look.
Cheers
mojo.

[MudRunnerTD]

Hi Yendor

Yes mate i always use the same key, and as for little red flashing lights on top of the dash, i don't recall seeing one unless it's hidden under the dash matt, anyway i had to get the car towed home so now it's in the shed i will be able to check out the fuel system right through to eliminate that issue and look under the dash matt for red flashing lights and hope NATS is not the problem.
One other thing is where is the fuel pump and is it electrical or mechanical as i have never had to deal with any fuel problems before, come to think of it i brought the car with approx 28K on the clock (now 210K)and never had any problems what so ever in the 14 years i have had it so i cannot complain, and thanks to everyone for the suggestions now it's in the shed i can have a proper look.
Cheers
mojo.

Yendor is no longer here mate. The fuel pump is on the drivers side of the motor under the power steering pump. It sounds like your NATS mate. The pump is mechanical and a significant job to remove and refit. As you read this thread I went at mine with a wood chisel mate!!!! A Very big deal!!

There are a couple 9f other threads on the forum about the task of you have a search but fundamentally it is laid out here.

The red LED light will be under your dash mat for sure basically directly in front of the driver.

Read this thread a couple of times mate. Happy to chat.

[mojo53]

Thanks MuddRunnerTD

I found the red flashing light, my dash matt has been on there forever and i completely forgot all about the flashing light under neath it, as yes it stays on if i am lucky to get the car started and i have two keys and tried them both with no change so it looks like i will be up for the big bash to fix my problem.
You would think someone would make an exchange pump without the bullshit on it but knowing nothing about pumps i guess it's not that easy or cheap.
Any way i will red through all these posts again and i might get the courage to attempt it.
Cheers Guys.

[MudRunnerTD]

Thanks MuddRunnerTD

I found the red flashing light, my dash matt has been on there forever and i completely forgot all about the flashing light under neath it, as yes it stays on if i am lucky to get the car started and i have two keys and tried them both with no change so it looks like i will be up for the big bash to fix my problem.
You would think someone would make an exchange pump without the bullshit on it but knowing nothing about pumps i guess it's not that easy or cheap.
Any way i will red through all these posts again and i might get the courage to attempt it.
Cheers Guys.

Good luck mate. Yes I took some balls mate. A new pump from UFI is about $2700 plus fitting.....

[mojo53]

Well Guys

I took the big plunge and started on the injector pump this morning to get rid of the immobilizer crap and i am glad for all the information and especially the photo's from everyone who submitted them as with out them i would not have done it, and it was scary enough with all the photo's and help especially hitting a very expensive injector pump mostly hidden from view by all the clutter with a very big hammer and hoping i don't f...k up and damage something.
One item i would like to remove so i can get to the solenoid wire is highlighted in the enclosed photo i but it looks like it's some sort of adjuster and i don't really want to mess with anything that might stuff up the setting for the pump, but i cannot get a spanner onto the nut on top of the solenoid so i can replace the black wire and lengthen it to make sure i get a good clean connection, anyway the black box is gone and it's time to rebuild the mess i have made and hope for the best.
To be continued.....Injector pump what is.jpg

[mojo53]

Job finished finally, not something i want to repeat again and the best part is it started first time so hopefully that problem is over but the red flashing light stays on when car is running not flashing as it does when it's stopped, just a steady red, has anyone else had the same indication after removing NATS from the injector pump, i was hoping it's because NATS is still lurking in the background for whatever is it controls who knows.
I would still like to know what the adjuster screw is in my previous post as i want to check the solenoid for collateral damage after all the violence that happened around it and that adjuster is blocking access to it.
Thanks to everyone for the advice and especially the photo's they were a great help.

[MudRunnerTD]

Well done mate. Yes the red LED is now there and one forever. Put a piece of tape over it or hit it with a Black texta.