Mudski GU Build Thread

[mudski]

Also @Winnie.
How did you get the unpainted lines on the top hat? Thought I might try an make it look good. Lol


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[Winnie]

I painted it all and used sandpaper to take the top bit of paint off. It worked really well!

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[MB TD42]

I've pulled a few winches apart to overhaul in my time but never seen the inners of the high mount animal...
Nice job

We're all ere coz we ain't all there.

[MudRunnerTD]

Ok I have the Iskra in my hands. Now. @MB do I remove the plastic end piece or n the motor? As with it the motor won’t fit.
Attachment 80825
Attachment 80826


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Nice one. That plastic is a transit jig I reckon mate. Remove and discard.

[mudski]

Nice one. That plastic is a transit jig I reckon mate. Remove and discard.

Yeah I was thinking that last night whilst trying to sleep in bed. I almost got out of bed at 2am just to remove it and see. Lol.

So what I want to do is mount the solenoid to the end of the motor. Maybe. There is already way too much happening in the engine bay so I dont really want to be adding to the confusion. The GP long motor bolts are too long for this job as the Iskra is a short motor compared to others. Upon closer inspection it just looks like they've used thread rod and put some sort of heat shrink over the middle section. I have two of said GP bolts in my possession.
I may either A, get the tap and die set out and cut a thread further down the GP bolt, or buy some threaded rod and make my own. I'll be looking closer to this over the weekend.

Soon, then I will be removing the bar and pulling the grinder and welder out.

[MB]

It’s looking great Mark, well done!
I believe Darren is correct and the Iskra/Mahle plastic end cover is for packing/transit only.
Just an idea but I mounted my Albright behind the grill, slightly off centre towards the drivers side up under the top body frame. IIRC there were already some 6mm or 8mm OEM holes facing forward to easily work with a flat made adapter plate for bolting the Albright safely behind. (I’ll try to remember to get some photos after work if you like)?
In regards your bar work, see if you can space the whole winch 10mm or so backwards with some vertical say 20mm x 10mm plates each side.
My Millweld has this as standard built in and it does surprisingly achieve a great deal of extra space for your rope.
Remember to not overload your spools/drums with too much rope length, for me the greatest advantage I believe of our High Mounts is the ability to haul for much longer off angle without binding up the line on one side like Low Mounts unfortunately suffer quite quickly which is devastating to rope burning/abrasion on the back of the bar.
Delta-Tek air free spools have a thinner diameter drum core if you’re looking for increased rope length than standard and their +76mm wider drum model can in theory fit IIRC about 50LM+ of 10mm although I only run about 35LM of 11mm for stress free, plenty of spool space left heavy ute hauls.
It can get bloody dangerous up there in our hills having to stop and restart winching multiple times due to rope binding offset and of course good quality trusted rope is very expensive and may find you pay off a Delta-Tek in only a few short gnarly adventures.
I do carry a spare roll of Whittams 12mm x 45LM (circa $300) in case of a serious straight double line pull if needed and the Delta-Tek drum has a super convenient angle rod on the drum centre/corner that takes only minutes to change over a fresh new safer line.
Stay safe mates!



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[MB]

My scribble scale below is incorrect between Low versus High Mount larger outer drum diameters compared but hopefully this gives you an idea mate of the 10mm plates for spacing the High Mount backwards just that extra helpful amount too.




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[PeeBee]

My scribble scale below is incorrect between Low versus High Mount larger outer drum diameters compared but hopefully this gives you an idea mate of the 10mm plates for spacing the High Mount backwards just that extra helpful amount too.




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@MB, funny enough, the spacer mod is what I did to my hydraulic low mount and the same for the braces, however instead of being welded to the casing they are bolted. Improves the safety around rope build up for sure. I spaced mine out 20mm from memory, however my winch body is no where near as deep as the HM.

[MudRunnerTD]

It’s looking great Mark, well done!
I believe Darren is correct and the Iskra/Mahle plastic end cover is for packing/transit only.
Just an idea but I mounted my Albright behind the grill, slightly off centre towards the drivers side up under the top body frame. IIRC there were already some 6mm or 8mm OEM holes facing forward to easily work with a flat made adapter plate for bolting the Albright safely behind. (I’ll try to remember to get some photos after work if you like)?
In regards your bar work, see if you can space the whole winch 10mm or so backwards with some vertical say 20mm x 10mm plates each side.
My Millweld has this as standard built in and it does surprisingly achieve a great deal of extra space for your rope.
Remember to not overload your spools/drums with too much rope length, for me the greatest advantage I believe of our High Mounts is the ability to haul for much longer off angle without binding up the line on one side like Low Mounts unfortunately suffer quite quickly which is devastating to rope burning/abrasion on the back of the bar.
Delta-Tek air free spools have a thinner diameter drum core if you’re looking for increased rope length than standard and their +76mm wider drum model can in theory fit IIRC about 50LM+ of 10mm although I only run about 35LM of 11mm for stress free, plenty of spool space left heavy ute hauls.
It can get bloody dangerous up there in our hills having to stop and restart winching multiple times due to rope binding offset and of course good quality trusted rope is very expensive and may find you pay off a Delta-Tek in only a few short gnarly adventures.
I do carry a spare roll of Whittams 12mm x 45LM (circa $300) in case of a serious straight double line pull if needed and the Delta-Tek drum has a super convenient angle rod on the drum centre/corner that takes only minutes to change over a fresh new safer line.
Stay safe mates!



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I totally agree. I only have about 30m of 12mm rope on my +76 Deltatek drum. Plenty of room for more but unnecessary. I carry a second 30m length of rope as a winch extension. Worst case it is a spare rope...

Note also that your winch is rated for pull at the drum. Add 6 layers of rope and you dramatically decrease pull and speed. Less is more.

Comp guys want heaps of rope for speed. 24v himount and no time for winch extension or double line pull setups. Go hard full noise. We have plenty of time so run less rope and use extensions for the win.

On my GU I also mounted the solenoid behind the grill off the radiator support panel.

[MudRunnerTD]

I took the drum and housing and end plate to Mal at S.G Leslie & Sons in Heidelberg, this guy is the guru of High Mounts. He rebuilds brand new high mounts that have never seen a second of use and makes them better than what they already are. So with the drum he made its smaller. From 3inch to 2.5inch diameter, to fit more rope on. Also, shamfered the end plates so there wasn't a sharp edge to cut the rope, milled down the outer end where the plastic bush would sit, not I have a ball bearing that fits on the end plate.
He also added an extra oring at the main housing end for that extra protection to inside the housing.
Attachment 80775Attachment 80776Attachment 80777

@MB he had Mal Leslie modify the drum and reduce the centre from 75mm to 65mm. Not heaps but maybe 1 layer. I'm surprised Mal didn't go to 50mm. Mal also welded the back bracing on and a Bearing in the end plate like I put on ABs