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29th October 2019, 09:57 AM
#11
Legendary
Originally Posted by
mudski
Any luck with this mate?
Yes Mudski , disconnected battery for 12 hours , cleaned the MAF sensor and nothing but pumped the right rear tyre from 29 psi to 35 psi and now it starts and runs like a dream !
Getting a code reader tomorrow from Aldi and see if anything shows ,too scared to go for a drive just in case but my sons mate is an ordained minister so might get him to perform an exorcism on it just to be sure .
Only thing I can think of is it was low on fuel and by putting 40 litres in it somehow it's fixed the problem it just needed time to push the older fuel out of the system , either that or I've discovered a new hack for fixing ZD 30 that won't start just pump up the rear tyre .
I'll post what error messages there are if any tomorrow .
Was suspecting the new alternator and maybe they bumped something while fitting it but now who knows .
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29th October 2019 09:57 AM
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29th October 2019, 10:21 AM
#12
Patrol Freak
The Aldi code reader is for OBD2 so won’t work with ZD30 DI. You need a Nissan Consult reader like Ecutalk.
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
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29th October 2019, 10:29 AM
#13
Legendary
Originally Posted by
jff45
The Aldi code reader is for OBD2 so won’t work with ZD30 DI. You need a Nissan Consult reader like Ecutalk.
Thanks for that , there's a new mechanic just up the road might go for a drive and see what he reckons .
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30th October 2019, 10:00 AM
#14
Legendary
Just drove the GU to the mechanic just up the road and as soon as the GU seen his workshop it died about four metres from his shed .
Not throwing any fault codes at all according to his equipment so I've had to leave it with him , thankfully he knows his patrols .
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30th October 2019, 11:15 AM
#15
The master farter
Another member here had very similar issues. He ended up putting clear fuel hose from the filter to the pump. There was small air bubbles in there and under load the motor was dying due to sucking in those air bubbles.
Last edited by mudski; 30th October 2019 at 11:29 AM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
GQtdauto (30th October 2019)
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30th October 2019, 11:18 AM
#16
Legendary
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30th October 2019, 12:28 PM
#17
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
mudski
Another member here had very similar issues. He ended up putting clear fuel hose from the filter to the pump. There was small air bubbles in there and under load the motor was dying due to sucking in those air bubbles.
Could that also mean the fuel lines are brittle and require immediate replacement
My return line perished a few months back
Last edited by threedogs; 31st October 2019 at 08:24 AM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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The Following User Says Thank You to threedogs For This Useful Post:
mudski (8th November 2019)
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30th October 2019, 01:53 PM
#18
Legendary
Not sure John but I rang him and he said he uses the same method using clear hose .
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31st October 2019, 08:24 AM
#19
Patrol God
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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31st October 2019, 07:11 PM
#20
Legendary
Sorry no internet all day TD, rang this morning finally got a code out of it and it was loss or intermittent connectivity between Injector pump and ECU .
Has rang again tonight and is not so sure it is the pump and wants to try something else first ,I do know the pumps on these are built to fail around the electronics going by comments I've seen .
So will see , clear fuel hose showed no bubbles but he says when hot it won't go but when cold it will and if he keeps the pump cool it keeps going but as soon as it gets hot it dies .
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