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15th August 2018, 03:59 PM
#11
OK, so looking around I see there are upper and lower control arms and front and rear panhards. The control arms are offered in adjustable as are some of the lower. Also there are upper control arms with a bend to clear fuel tanks. i am assuming I don't need the bent upper adjustable units as the factory straight ones dont hit the fuel tank now? Is it complicating the setup by having the control arms adjustable or simply go for the +11mm units for the 2-3" lift range? Do I ned to change the upper control arms at all?
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15th August 2018 03:59 PM
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15th August 2018, 04:35 PM
#12
Legendary
Hey Phil, you can get away without replacing the uppers IMO, although just as thin are shorter so stronger and out of harms way enough not to pose an issue. I had a bit cut out of my tank to clear the upper but if yours is clearing probably will be fine if not a bent one is an easier away to do it. My lowers are fixed but longer and would be fine for yours i reckon . .
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PeeBee (15th August 2018)
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15th August 2018, 04:39 PM
#13
OK, thanks guys, Just had a good talk with darren and the order of play from his perspective is 1) lower trailing arms, 2) Drag link behind front diff, 3) tierod in front of front diff, defer the front and rear panhards for now. This bloody car is a money sinkhole!
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15th August 2018, 04:41 PM
#14
Moderator
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
OK, thanks guys, Just had a good talk with darren and the order of play from his perspective is 1) lower trailing arms, 2) Drag link behind front diff, 3) tierod in front of front diff, defer the front and rear panhards for now. This bloody car is a money sinkhole!
good list mate. Drag Link is in front of front diff from Steering box to Left Hub and the Tie Rod is behind the front diff from hub to hub to keep the front wheels pointing the same way.. Any dramas dont hesitate mate.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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PeeBee (15th August 2018)
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15th August 2018, 05:20 PM
#15
Legendary
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
OK, This bloody car is a money sinkhole!. . .
Really ?, must have bought the wrong one mine hasn't cost me a cent . . .
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Last edited by Rossco; 15th August 2018 at 08:49 PM.
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15th August 2018, 06:54 PM
#16
Moderator
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
This bloody car is a money sinkhole!
Yeah Ghee mate! My GU has cost me next to nothing to own. especially the last 3 months. Been sooo good.
My GQ is a whole other League!! I have not driven that for 4 years so thats been good. Rego alone comes in at $2500......Dont tell the missus i spent $2000 on the winch....(This time) or the 24v setup, or the 3 new batteries, the XR Seats and adapters, the 37 Treps that have not been on the road yet (they have been great! The idea is that if you spend big coin on expensive tyres they will last you say 5 years and then they are cheap! I'm 4 Years in! They where nearly free! ) . Imagine if i had to put Diesel in the bloody thing!!
Hey i got did i tell you i got 175RWKW out of the GU..... LMFAO . BHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. Might buy a Toyota cause apparently they never break and have enough power....
Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 15th August 2018 at 06:56 PM.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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15th August 2018, 07:54 PM
#17
Smart like tractor
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
This bloody car is a money sinkhole!
Hahahaha. Just wait until you start replacing the already replaced parts for even more improvement. Then going through it again chasing personal ideals
96 GQ coil/Cab
08 G6eT
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15th August 2018, 08:10 PM
#18
Originally Posted by
Ben-e-boy
Hahahaha. Just wait until you start replacing the already replaced parts for even more improvement. Then going through it again chasing personal ideals
I think my requirements are a lot different to yours somehow! I have not bent or broken any of this gear and its been out and about since 1997. I am not saying it is absolutely required, however what I am hearing is more insurance before it happens or lessening the impact of an event. Right now its another $750 for stuff that isn't broken, hence the hesitation.
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15th August 2018, 08:18 PM
#19
Smart like tractor
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
I think my requirements are a lot different to yours somehow! I have not bent or broken any of this gear and its been out and about since 1997. I am not saying it is absolutely required, however what I am hearing is more insurance before it happens or lessening the impact of an event. Right now its another $750 for stuff that isn't broken, hence the hesitation.
Nah $750 pretty good for the insurance perspective. Thats cheaper than buying just 1 of my shocks
96 GQ coil/Cab
08 G6eT
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15th August 2018, 09:09 PM
#20
The master farter
Originally Posted by
PeeBee
OK, so looking around I see there are upper and lower control arms and front and rear panhards. The control arms are offered in adjustable as are some of the lower. Also there are upper control arms with a bend to clear fuel tanks. i am assuming I don't need the bent upper adjustable units as the factory straight ones dont hit the fuel tank now? Is it complicating the setup by having the control arms adjustable or simply go for the +11mm units for the 2-3" lift range? Do I ned to change the upper control arms at all?
The bend in the upper arms is for long range aux tanks as they kinda wrap around the rhs upper arm. So the arm is bent to clear the tank. Adjustable uppers are used to straighten, or re align the pinion angle so its in line with the tail shaft. The more the lift the more the diff needs to be twisted upwards to be in line with the tailshaft.
Longer lower arms are used to centre the wheel in the guard when the axle is under compression. As when you add a suspension lift you will alter the wheel to guard alignment. Sorry I dont know how to explain it better. Bene will be able to clear this upper better than anyone. I went +10mm in my lower arms for a 4inch lift and its spot on for my application.
Look at the pinion angle of your diff and if it runs in a straight line to your tail shaft, you dont require adjustable upper arms. If its not, then yeah technically you do.
I changed both uppers and lowers on my arms and the rubber bushes in both did not last 12 months. All now replaced with OEM bushes and plenty of never seize on the pins and all good.
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