I've got a rattle.

[10G]

Sounds like.a failing belt tensioner to me mate.
I've had 2 fail on me when I had my zd30 crd.
The bearing hers dirt and grit inside and basically wears itself down to bare metal making a racket.
Eventually siezes up.


Sent from Note 5 using TapaPro

Thanks for the help Hodge, think I'll chase up a tensioner.

Do you need to take out the radiator to get to the belt, tensioner and all the other bits & pieces?

[Bidja]

Belt removal from the manual.
1. Remove radiator shroud.
2. Contract and hold the auto tensioner using the following procedure.
a. Securely hold the 19 mm (0.75 in) hexagonal portion A of
auto tensioner with a closed wrench.
+ Preferably use a tool with a handhold of 500 mm (19.69 in)
or more in length.
+ No bolts or nuts are required to be loosened during the
operation.
b. Turn the hexagonal portion A in the direction shown by the
arrow to contract the damper unit of the auto tensioner.
CAUTION:
+ Because the tensioner has a high tension, it shall be
securely held and turned with a closed wrench.
+ Because the hexagonal portion A of the tensioner is
made of aluminum and may be damaged by sudden
input, turn it slowly according to the contraction of the
damper unit.
3. Remove the belt from the alternator pulley first, and then
remove it from the other pulleys.
+ If the tensioner is not held firmly, your finger may get caught
between the belt and the pulleys. Confirm the holding of the
tensioner, and then hold the belt side in the place away from
the pulleys to attach or remove the belt, paying attention to
prevent your finger from being caught.

Also you may find it easier if you remove top shroud as well but not necessary.

[Bidja]

Thanks for the help Hodge, think I'll chase up a tensioner.

Do you need to take out the radiator to get to the belt, tensioner and all the other bits & pieces?

Have not done it yet, but understand no removal of radiator is req'd. After belt is off, the Tensioner can be removed, 17mm for the lower attach bolt and a 12mm for the top one. Imagine it would then come away.

[10G]

Belt removal from the manual.
1. Remove radiator shroud.
2. Contract and hold the auto tensioner using the following procedure.
a. Securely hold the 19 mm (0.75 in) hexagonal portion A of
auto tensioner with a closed wrench.
+ Preferably use a tool with a handhold of 500 mm (19.69 in)
or more in length.
+ No bolts or nuts are required to be loosened during the
operation.
b. Turn the hexagonal portion A in the direction shown by the
arrow to contract the damper unit of the auto tensioner.
CAUTION:
+ Because the tensioner has a high tension, it shall be
securely held and turned with a closed wrench.
+ Because the hexagonal portion A of the tensioner is
made of aluminum and may be damaged by sudden
input, turn it slowly according to the contraction of the
damper unit.
3. Remove the belt from the alternator pulley first, and then
remove it from the other pulleys.
+ If the tensioner is not held firmly, your finger may get caught
between the belt and the pulleys. Confirm the holding of the
tensioner, and then hold the belt side in the place away from
the pulleys to attach or remove the belt, paying attention to
prevent your finger from being caught.

Also you may find it easier if you remove top shroud as well but not necessary.

Geez thanks for the input Bidja, that's a fair bit of typing.

[mudski]

Wont need to remove radiator or shroud. Loosen tensioner and remove belt from the top. The rest is easiest done from the bottom. I would keep the old tensioner and put a new bearing in it and keep it as back up....

[Bidja]

Geez thanks for the input Bidja, that's a fair bit of typing.

It is referred to as a copy and paste function. I am a hoarder of good info when I come across it.

My speed of typing, you would have had to have waited until next week. Hope it helps...

[threedogs]

I threw my rattle out of the cot but kept my teddy,
Just had a heap of work done on the GU thought Id get them
to change the tensioner and aircon pulley and Id keep the old
for spares , My rig has only 220k on it and the tensioner just fell apart.
My Patrol has had a very easy life . once the upper shroud is off you should
have access to the tensioner. Glad I changed it as it would have failed next trip to the Murray
only go OE same goes for the belt as well. Happy as now seems to have more power

[Bidja]

I threw my rattle out of the cot but kept my teddy,

I haven't got either and I am sad about that and now I sleep on a bigger bed....lol

John did you get a tracking# for the recovery "T" points? PM me if you have one. Sure they arrive soon anyway.

[10G]

I threw my rattle out of the cot but kept my teddy,
Just had a heap of work done on the GU thought Id get them
to change the tensioner and aircon pulley and Id keep the old
for spares , My rig has only 220k on it and the tensioner just fell apart.
My Patrol has had a very easy life . once the upper shroud is off you should
have access to the tensioner. Glad I changed it as it would have failed next trip to the Murray
only go OE same goes for the belt as well. Happy as now seems to have more power

Thanks TD, I was going to go genuine with that stuff, not really stuff you can afford to muck around with.

[VK2FMIA]

Do you need to take out the radiator to get to the belt, tensioner and all the other bits & pieces?

Had mine off just the other day. Been through this a few times & this is the way I do it.

Tools - 12mm, 17mm & 19mm sockets. Driver & extension handle (bit of Pipe)

Crawl under front of vehicle. Unclip small section of radiator shroud at the bottom (straight piece around 50mm wide) & remove.
Place 19mm socket on driver with extension handle on the lug nut on tensioner. Apply pressure towards passenger side of vehicle.
With tension off the belt slide it off the Aircon Pully & remove.
Remove top bolt (12mm). Remove bottom bolt (17mm). Remove tensioner.

Reverse the process to fit new tensioner & fit belt.