RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
Few more mods on the way
http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
https://www.panthera.org/
Cheetah Outreach
I meant the seal, brain in neutral when posting that.
Post amended.
Anyway used the endless chain to pull the engine from the back of the Old Trol. I whipped the plugs out and found some greenish deposits on #6 that smelt like coolant. Worst case scenario, is it has been hydrolocked, but the best is only a head gasket. I will shop around for a s/h engine stand.
Last edited by mudnut; 16th November 2017 at 05:50 PM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
dom14 (17th November 2017)
Engine stands are pretty cheap. Check on ebay. If you have few scrap steel & a stick welder, you can make a one in no time.
Make sure to do a leak down test on the used engine you have.
If you've got it cheap, it will be a hit and miss, but most have pretty good bottom ends.
Last edited by dom14; 23rd November 2017 at 03:29 PM.
RB30, some 2-3 inch lift auxiliary LPG tanks
Few more mods on the way
http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/tiger
https://www.panthera.org/
Cheetah Outreach
mudnut (17th November 2017)
Removal of timing sprocket
I took the advice from another thread, to drill and tap some holes in the timing sprocket and use a puller to remove it.
Materials and tool list.
2x 6mm x 1mm thread pitch x 100mm hardened bolts with large washers.
1x small steel ruler, or vernier calliper.
1x 2mm drill bit.
1x 5mm drill bit.
1x 6mm x 1mm starting tap.
1x 6mm x 1mm bottom tap.
1x El Cheapo puller and spanner to fit.
1x hot air gun, hair drier or inductor heat gun.
1x centre punch and hammer.
1x scribe.
I soaked the sprocket with Inox for a few days and cleaned the crank, with a fine grained wet 'n' dry paper.
Position the sprocket with the key at the top.
Carefully measure and scribe two marks, on the outer edge of the machined step of the sprocket, each 90 degrees from the centre of the key.
Taking care to position the point of the centre punch. Make a light mark and check it is in the correct place. Use a few heavy blows to deepen the mark, so that the drill bit won't move off centre.
The sprockets are made of very soft metal so you must constantly check that the drills and taps are centred and parallel to the crankshaft.
Drill two pilot holes with the 2mm bit, approximately 17 mm deep.
Use the 5mm bit to drill out the pilot holes.
Use the starting tap to get cut the threads.
Use the bottom tap to cut to cut to the bottom of the holes.
When setting up the puller, screw the bolts into the holes until they hit bottom, then undo them half a turn. This is to ensure that if a bolt breaks under the strain it will be much easier to pull out the remaining piece.
Screw in the crankshaft bolt ( almost to full depth) to give the puller a good surface to act on.
Apply heat to the sprocket and begin to tighten the puller. The sprocket should slide off fairly easy, but in many cases it may be very tight. And you may need to use more heat. Be patient and don't break the puller bolts.
If you are unsuccessful, you may have to drill another hole above the key, or a series of holes along the key (in vehicle) and use a chisel to split the sprocket to remove it.
I did this job with the engine on a stand and there is not much room to work in the engine bay. There are drills with right angle heads or right angle attachments available.
I would recommend drilling and tapping these puller holes into the sprocket before fitting it to the engine.
Last edited by mudnut; 20th February 2018 at 12:57 PM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
There is a shallow groove worn into this crankshaft as well, but it is nowhere as deep as the one in the Old Trol.
You can see signs of movement on the rear washer, but the centre hole is not worn out, like the one fitted in the vehicle.
I have thought of drilling and tapping the sprocket puller holes all the way through and into the washer. I would grind the end flat of a pair of grub screws and fit them with just enough length protruding to seat the washer at centre, This would negate the washer being fitted off centre or spinning around and further chewing the shaft out.
I would also fit another short grub screw to lock each one, also using the correct Loctite to ensure nothing came loose.
Last edited by mudnut; 17th February 2018 at 09:24 AM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
Need to remove clutch fan and drive belts, swap clutch hub and fan over. Will try to remember to take some pics, hopefully help anyone else that may need to do it.
You still around Dom? Been a while since I've seen your name here!
Forgot all about getting pictures. Job was easy enough, was given the wrong p/s belt so that was annoying.
dom14 where are youuuuu?
In other news, car has it's power back with new fan clutch, it's no longer thinking it's a jumbo.
Flipside is looks like my rotor button is cooked again. Rev limiter kicking in around 4700. 3rd button in two years, cars lucky to do 5k kms a year.
Has anyone actually tossed the springs, I've seen it mentioned on a few forums here and there but be nice to speak to someone that's done it.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
One has been from Bursons, the other Repco. No idea on the actual brand.
Yeah they're good for a while giving me 6300 or whatever. But they just seam to wear quick and I can't get it past 4800 now. Happens again and again.
I replace the button and it's all good again, so I know it's not a secondary issue or anything like that.
Whatever the stock ignition is lol, no idea. Nope not getting hot, didn't have long enough to get hot last time haha. #poorcar