Alright sounds pretty straight forward. What should I use to clean out intake manifold? All the carbon build up?
Alright sounds pretty straight forward. What should I use to clean out intake manifold? All the carbon build up?
Currently own a ZD30 2000 GU patrol with a dead injector pumpabout to start a build on a TD42 motor to go in the car and basically rebuild the whole car into a machine of a rig
lmath56 (22nd May 2017)
Carbie cleaner should do the trick, make sure all components are dry
before re-assembly
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
lmath56 (22nd May 2017)
The mechanic looked at the car today and found that the MAF was quite dusty, so he gave that a clean.
The fuel filter had quite a bit of water in the separator so he replaced that.
One of the hoses near the turbo was leaking a bit of oil. It was pushed back on and tightened,
He took it for a drive and it seemed fine, and i did as well. It seems to start a bit faster and have slightly more power now.
I will need to tow a trailer full of tiles and concrete in the coming days so that will really test whether this fixes the issue or not.
I will update if there are any further issues,
Thanks everyone for your help!!
This is the first time I have used this forum, and I will definitely be back!
Lucas
Make sure you do Lucas...we'll want to know how you get on.
lmath56 (24th May 2017)
lmath56 (24th May 2017)
Also if you're going to be towing bricks and concrete tiles
have a good look at strengthening the rear shock towers
they will crack
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Glad to know we could help you Lucas please let us know how you go with everything after you test it and what not.
Good luck
Currently own a ZD30 2000 GU patrol with a dead injector pumpabout to start a build on a TD42 motor to go in the car and basically rebuild the whole car into a machine of a rig
Just to add another aspect to this conversation, last night it was a bit cool and I was in a 100kph area. As I accelerated I could see the guage go up to the 15psi then over to 16psi. If I continued at this it then went to limp. Normally my dawes is set to 15psi max and I only get 16psi in cold weather. This morning the max at 15psi is back to normal. So here is the theory. I think that the spring tension in the dawes changes just a smidge when it is cold and allows the setting to drift to over 16psi, which is where the limp mode kicks in. When the motor heats up or on a warm day the spring maintains its set point and all is good. Any other thoughts on this?
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.
Daveyboyjunior (25th May 2017)
Hi there,
On your gauge, you may see a little bounce over your set limit.
To make your Dawes a little more responsive some guys (me included) just pop the spring out and stretch it just very slightly, and this added tension within the chamber should help the Dawes stay on your chosen limit.
Just my thoughts...
We don't have big temp differences over here unless it's freak weather.
Look at my post count... I've scored a century who hoo.
Gonna thank you for that 4bye4!
Last edited by Daveyboyjunior; 25th May 2017 at 06:07 PM.
2005 GU IV ST 3.0. Snorkel. Roof rack. Awning. Spots. Welded I/C. Dual batteries & VSR. UHF. Barn door hinge extension. Roof top spot lights. Rear drawers. 2" lift. NADS. EGT and boost gauges. Trans temp and water temp gauges. Provent 200 catch can. Rear ladder
And crawling on the planet's face, some insects called the human race. Lost in time. And lost in space... and meaning.