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22nd February 2017, 09:05 PM
#1
Advanced
Boost controller installation
I know this topic has probably been done to death, so I apologise for bringing it up again. However I just would like an answer to a couple of questions regarding boost controller/Dawes valve install. The car in question is a 2008 CRD ZD30 (stock aside from a provent 200, current max boost is around 14psi and very erratic at low rpm)
Do you have to install a needle valve, as well as the boost controller?
What are the advantages of using the needle valve? (Is it just to do with a more linear boost curve?)
To run a Dawes/needle system, does the EGR need to be blocked? Or can I leave it and simply install the Dawes/needle valves?
Thanks heaps in advance! 👍
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22nd February 2017 09:05 PM
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23rd February 2017, 08:41 AM
#2
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Wilburnator
I know this topic has probably been done to death, so I apologise for bringing it up again. However I just would like an answer to a couple of questions regarding boost controller/Dawes valve install. The car in question is a 2008 CRD ZD30 (stock aside from a provent 200, current max boost is around 14psi and very erratic at low rpm)
Do you have to install a needle valve, as well as the boost controller? No. You don't have to run either really. Installing the Dawes at the least, will limit the maximum boost and reduce fluctuations
What are the advantages of using the needle valve? (Is it just to do with a more linear boost curve?)Using a needle valve lets you control how fast the turbo will spool up from idle to maximum boost. Many people say its not needed for the CRD. Well they are right, to an extent. The car will drive fine without it. But it will drive a lot better with it. I have met a few people that are just running a Dawes or a Tillix, and have said that it goes better but still is a bit laggy down low. I fitted up a needle valve and gave it a quick road tune and the turbo response time is a lot faster there for reducing the lag feel.
Another way of looking at it is, we all spend coin modding our 4wd's to make them that little bit better with every mod. So. The question needs to be. Why wouldn't you install a needle valve?
To run a Dawes/needle system, does the EGR need to be blocked? Or can I leave it and simply install the Dawes/needle valves? No. But in my opinion is still a good idea to do so. Albeit, illegal.
Thanks heaps in advance! 👍
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Wilburnator (23rd February 2017)
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23rd February 2017, 09:09 AM
#3
Advanced
Originally Posted by
mudski
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Is the kit on the Northern 4 x 4 on eBay your business?
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23rd February 2017, 09:53 AM
#4
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Wilburnator
Is the kit on the Northern 4 x 4 on eBay your business?
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Yes it is mate. Anything you see on the site you get 10% off when ordering via here too...
So this is the full kit with the two valves and the EGR plate.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dawes-Val...item4d4cbc4e52
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Wilburnator (23rd February 2017)
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23rd February 2017, 10:02 AM
#5
Advanced
Originally Posted by
mudski
Awesome, thanks mate! Is it easier to buy to direct from you, or off eBay? Whats your preference?
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23rd February 2017, 12:43 PM
#6
The master farter
Originally Posted by
Wilburnator
Awesome, thanks mate! Is it easier to buy to direct from you, or off eBay? Whats your preference?
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Either way is good for me. But direct is 10% cheaper. Id rather discount members than give the 10% to eBay.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
Wilburnator (23rd February 2017)
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23rd February 2017, 01:02 PM
#7
Advanced
Originally Posted by
mudski
Either way is good for me. But direct is 10% cheaper. Id rather discount members than give the 10% to eBay.
Sounds fair! Do you have a link for the direct purchase? Thanks again!
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23rd February 2017, 02:38 PM
#8
The master farter
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The Following User Says Thank You to mudski For This Useful Post:
Wilburnator (23rd February 2017)
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23rd February 2017, 07:40 PM
#9
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
mudski
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I am only running the HPD controller at the moment and have no limp mode problems. It runs well but is a bit laggy at the start. I think I will put the needle valve back on and play around with it as per Mudskis suggestion.
I had a think about why the needle valve would help with turbo lag and the only idea I came up with is that without it the turbo vanes go to max angle too early while the turbo is trying to gain speed. This causes a momentary lag as it's not set to its most efficient angle for that speed. By slowing the vanes rate of change it keeps it at a more efficient angle for the lower speed.
2007 DX CRD Wagon - EFS 2" lift, BOSS Chassis Brace Kit, Steel Bull Bar, Runva 9500-Q winch, FyrLyt's, Rock Sliders, Rear bar with wheel and twin jerry carriers, Drawers, Fridge slide, dual battery, Red Arc BCDC 1220, Red Arc EGT/Boost gauge, Scangauge, Uniden UHF, Prodigy P2 brake controller, CC Intercooler, Pacemaker 3" zhaust, HPD Dawes, ECU Remap.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Rock Trol For This Useful Post:
Wilburnator (23rd February 2017)
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23rd February 2017, 08:02 PM
#10
The master farter
Your on the money there Rock Trol....
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