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Thread: Frankensteins GQ Resurection

  1. #21
    Advanced OLY's Avatar
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    i got the coil brace brackets folded and grabbed some more steel to make the last 3 brackets

    IMG_0319.JPG

    the tacked the passenger side engine mount on

    IMG_0318.JPG

    made the plate to bolt to the engine, i made sure i had a cutout for the oil feed for down the track when i turbo it, i haven't seen any of the aftermarket ones where they have this. and i made the connecting pieces using the same cardboard template method

    IMG_0322.JPG

    tacked the side plates into position

    IMG_0323.JPG

    pulled it all out and welded it up on the bench

    IMG_0324.JPG

    i added a gusset in welded them all up and blasted them with some satin black killrust enamel but it got a bit dark, i'll throw up a finished off and installed photo tomorrow, i got everything cut out for the driver side, just have to chamfer off the corners and stick it together, that's another job for tomorrow
    Run Your Fingers Over My Patrol, I'll Run My Patrol Over Your Fingers!!

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  3. #22
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    a quick snap of the mount welded and painted up. today i bolted it together and put it in place, came out alright.

    IMG_0325.JPG IMG_0326.JPG

    Time to start the driver side. again the factory two part Nissan mount

    IMG_0327.JPG IMG_0328.JPG

    Cleaned up the base plate and zapped the bottom together, cut out the engine plate with clearance for the injector pump bracket ready to make the side plates

    IMG_0329.JPG IMG_0330.JPG

    the cardboard templates bolted firmly in place, should hold??

    IMG_0331.JPG IMG_0332.JPG

    all tacked together, welded up on then with a gusset and painted up. popped it in and fits a treat.

    IMG_0334.JPG IMG_0335.JPG IMG_0345.JPG

    as the old mounts were so sagged and stuffed i didn't have much of an idea of heights and such, i use a spirit level on the shift plate to gauge it.
    Last edited by OLY; 29th August 2015 at 10:52 PM.
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  5. #23
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    the next little project is the tail shaft crossmember. i was looking at how to notch it to gain clearance for when it gains some height and suspension travel, and just when i had it all worked out in my head a mate came around and said " why don't just cut the crossmember, spin it and weld it back in"

    well that's a lot easier than what i had planned!! so that's what i did. i used my exhaust pipe cutter to scribe a nice straight line around the bar and ran through with the thin cut off disc. cleaned up around the cut and put a V groove to weld it up.

    IMG_0337.JPG IMG_0336.JPG IMG_0338.JPG

    IMG_0339.JPG IMG_0346.JPG

    this photo doesn't quite show the amount of extra clearance gained but when i spin the tailshaft i'll make sure it is enough but i'm pretty confident that it will be heaps and with a bit of black paint over the top it doesn't stick out like a big notch would have so hopefully i can fly under the radar a bit with it.
    Run Your Fingers Over My Patrol, I'll Run My Patrol Over Your Fingers!!

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  7. #24
    Daily Lurker rusty_nail's Avatar
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    wish i had your skill also man! its awesome! where bouts in the world are u?
    I got red dust in my veins.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty_nail View Post
    wish i had your skill also man! its awesome! where bouts in the world are u?
    Thanks man! i'm in Goulburn nsw
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  9. #26
    Daily Lurker rusty_nail's Avatar
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    oh nice! just up the road haha! looking forward to seeing this frankenstein on the road one day!
    I got red dust in my veins.

    Check out My Rig here: Broken

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    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

  10. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty_nail View Post
    oh nice! just up the road haha! looking forward to seeing this frankenstein on the road one day!
    haha yeah me too. will be a while off yet though as I have a fair few idea's rattling about in the noggin' that I want to try to put into practice and see if they work out
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  11. #28
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    After wondering what the next piece of the chassis that might benefit from some attention was, i decided to have a play with the rear lower control arms. to make it easier to get to the mount on the chassis i started but cutting the body mount off, marking it accordingly of course, then i cut the control arm mount off, used a hole saw to cut out the crush tube in the rail

    IMG_0350.JPG IMG_0351.JPG

    after a fair bit of measuring, double checking, then checking again i re-drilled the hole for the crush tube and welded it in, tacked the mount back on in it's new home and gave it another measure to make sure it would all work out then zapped it all up properly.

    IMG_0352.JPG IMG_0353.JPG IMG_0354.JPG

    i just tacked the body mount back on in place until i make the arms and do the other side so i can run them through their travel arc's and make sure i don't have to modify it any further then i'll weld it up. I'll cut a couple of tubes and weld them in to fill in the holes i left and give the chassis back it's strength.

    I cleaned up and painted the control arm mount on the passenger side, but didn't get a photo, i'll grab one tomorrow. I cut the driver side control arm and body mount off and cleaned up the rail, i'll weld the mount in place tomorrow so it matches the passenger side. hopefully i can find some steel tomorrow that i'm happy with to make the control arms out of and i'll get them made and see how it all works

    i also had a little delivery in the post

    IMG_0356.JPG

    now i can finish the bracing i started making and there is no way the rear coil towers will move crack or bend like they are well known to. After a bit of research online I decided that the brackets alone wouldn't be enough but would probably only move the point that cracks and the only real solution is a solid link between the two coil towers. because i have already made the brackets and the fact that the towers are slightly bent up i think the brackets might give back the strength so i'll use them as well as the brace plate
    Run Your Fingers Over My Patrol, I'll Run My Patrol Over Your Fingers!!

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  13. #29
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    as promised the pic of the mount with some paint

    IMG_0358.JPG

    the other side snipped off, cleaned up and tacked up blasted and painted.

    IMG_0361.JPG IMG_0362.JPG IMG_0363.JPG

    A quick Tip for those of you playing at home.. notice i didn't weld the front side of the base plate of anywhere that it met up to the curve of the chassis. you can weld on the top and bottom flats and the sides but not on the curve, now i am in no way a boily or qualified fabricator so i may be a little off with my reasoning for this but i believe that it creates a stress point and will cause the chassis to crack. even if you take a look at the factory mounts there is a gap at the curve off the edge of the chassis.

    so now that both the mounts have been moved and re welded i'd have to say if i were to do it again i wouldn't move them quite as far back. i moved them 410mm as this was the maximum length i could get with the arm working properly and not hitting anything. if i had only moved it 380mm or so then i wouldn't have had to make the mounts suit around the pipe crossmember and it would have been a lot quicker and easier..

    anyway now that all that is over and done it's time for the control arms... sounds easy right? not many steel places around here had anything suitable, in fact the piece i did find was on a rack out the back of an engineering company that nobody knew was there and apparently they don't make that size anymore or something and there is just enough to make the arms with all of 30mm to spare or something. lucky

    this shows the difference in wall thickness, a factory arm that measures up at 2.42mm wall thickness and the pipe i'm using for the long arms measuring 8.75mm. time to dig out the old tube notcher, i'm reducing the offset on the chassis side to 1.5 degree to compensate for the extra length in the arm

    IMG_0367.JPG IMG_0369.JPG

    hopefully i'll get to finish the arms off tomorrow
    Run Your Fingers Over My Patrol, I'll Run My Patrol Over Your Fingers!!

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  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLY View Post
    the next little project is the tail shaft crossmember. i was looking at how to notch it to gain clearance for when it gains some height and suspension travel, and just when i had it all worked out in my head a mate came around and said " why don't just cut the crossmember, spin it and weld it back in"

    well that's a lot easier than what i had planned!! so that's what i did. i used my exhaust pipe cutter to scribe a nice straight line around the bar and ran through with the thin cut off disc. cleaned up around the cut and put a V groove to weld it up.





    this photo doesn't quite show the amount of extra clearance gained but when i spin the tailshaft i'll make sure it is enough but i'm pretty confident that it will be heaps and with a bit of black paint over the top it doesn't stick out like a big notch would have so hopefully i can fly under the radar a bit with it.
    you might wont to turn your tail shaft around so the thin end is bolted to the transfer case other wise with a bit of suspension travel you will be making some nasty grinding noises.

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