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28th January 2015, 06:30 PM
#1
Expert
Runva 11Xp Install to Genuine Nissan Bar
Hey all,
Decided to get an 11XP and picked it up today, Ive been looking at the mounting position before I install it tomorrow and have found the following issue, Ill bullet point the concerns and show some pics, Im aware of the gearbox rotation so no need to worry about that when you see the pics.
I am aware the 11XP will mount straight in, as advised by Runva Cust Supp and observed threads.
It will but I have a concern regarding the Fairlead holes, they seem to be a bit higher than lets say the middle of the spool where id prefer it sat, see pic
unnamed (1).jpg
the above pic shows how low the winch spool sits from the fairlead bolt holes, as the rope spools from the bottom of the winch it would be ok if i turned it upside down, no mention of this in all my research
there is a couple of brackets above the top holes and if i use these holes id have to drill the bottom holes just below the Fairlead holes.
WINCH3.jpg
ill put up a few other pics just incase you spot something I havent but id appreciate any feedback, theres very little info on these installs in threads so ill make sure I follow up on this one with pics so others may benifit.
Cheers Dave
WINCH5.jpgwinch2.jpgWINCH7.jpg
Edit,, I just took off the smaller brackets (top left pic) from behind the bar and those holes are no good as I wont get them in from the front as the bar cross member sits in front of them, wish I had sighted that first
You can see the two silver brackets on either side coming to the bar, the bolts are just visible under the top cross member below the number plate,
from the above pic the 2 top holes on either side line up perfectly with 2 x lower holes which you cannot see, theyre under the bottom cross member, obviously the top holes i am showing for winch install should be where my fairlead bolts into, If I am correct then I can only answer my own question and say that Id need to drill 4 x new mounting holes using the fairlead holes as a centre point of my mount,(middle of spool).
just a point for others the clutch handle hits the rear of the bbar therefore if it was to be mounted as it is or even as I have suggested above I would need a spacing bracket or washers etc about 5 to 10mm, not a major but worth considering, Im going to simply rotate the gearbox so it sits on top and not to the front, which is my preference anyway.
Last edited by NissanGQ4.2; 31st January 2015 at 05:44 AM.
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28th January 2015 06:30 PM
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28th January 2015, 07:02 PM
#2
Hardcore
Mate flip it around clutch on the drivers side. I've got the same bar and same winch and what we have all done
Lucus30's 1999 GU ST TB45E
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28th January 2015, 07:24 PM
#3
Expert
Thanks lucas, Dont know where my minds at at the moment, I read up on winches a couple of months ago and somehow thought the other Runvas plus many others needed to be turned over, Bit of relief and first thing I thought of when I got to this point but when I read up on straight fit I thought it was without flipping it over, So theres nothing else I need to do then, flip it over mount the fairlead and wire it up then.
Oh well maybe the pics might help others anyway and ill put up a few more as I go along.
Cheers
Dave
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28th January 2015, 07:29 PM
#4
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
lucus30
Mate flip it around clutch on the drivers side. I've got the same bar and same winch and what we have all done
What does that change?? Winch will still be in the same location compared to fairlead.
Um well yea I see your issue. Seeing I custom made mine I put the fairlead inline with the 3 layer. But yours is still above the 4 layer.
I can't see any issues with using those bracket holes. But what do the brackets hold??
Will you need to leave those brackets and space the bottom out with a washer??
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28th January 2015, 07:48 PM
#5
Expert
Originally Posted by
biggqwesty
What does that change?? Winch will still be in the same location compared to fairlead.
Um well yea I see your issue. Seeing I custom made mine I put the fairlead inline with the 3 layer. But yours is still above the 4 layer.
I can't see any issues with using those bracket holes. But what do the brackets hold??
Will you need to leave those brackets and space the bottom out with a washer??
Thanks Kallen, It seems that the mounting issue is corrected when turning it over as the rope spools off the bottom, although its not exactly centralised it does make a huge difference in the angle the spooling from top V's spooling from the bottom,Im just about to mount it after moving the gearbox and ill take a pic, you will see the difference this makes.
Last edited by Smoothrun; 28th January 2015 at 09:00 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Smoothrun For This Useful Post:
BigRAWesty (28th January 2015)
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28th January 2015, 07:51 PM
#6
Hardcore
All runva advise is to make sure out and in are still correct on the remote. Bacho86 sent an email and asked them. When I'm home I can look at mine if you want
Lucus30's 1999 GU ST TB45E
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28th January 2015, 08:31 PM
#7
Patrol Guru
Flip it over and rotate the gearbox and bolt it in, straight forward. I have the same winch and bar also. You will need 10mm longer bolts in the top holes that hold the fair lead in. Plenty of pics in my build. There's a link in my signature.
Cheers Rod
_______________________________________________
Bitumen ...... Another watse of public funds
My Build 2005 TD42TI
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Rocket55 For This Useful Post:
Bacho86 (28th January 2015), Smoothrun (28th January 2015)
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28th January 2015, 09:07 PM
#8
Hardcore
Originally Posted by
Rocket55
Flip it over and rotate the gearbox and bolt it in, straight forward. I have the same winch and bar also. You will need 10mm longer bolts in the top holes that hold the fair lead in. Plenty of pics in my build. There's a link in my signature.
Oh yeah forgot about the 10mm longer HT bolts. Cost me $1 from a bolt shop
Also I discovered I couldn't get nyloc nuts into the holes in the winch so use the supplied ones with spring washer on the front of the fairlead and bullbar
Lucus30's 1999 GU ST TB45E
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28th January 2015, 10:00 PM
#9
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
Rocket55
Flip it over and rotate the gearbox and bolt it in, straight forward. I have the same winch and bar also. You will need 10mm longer bolts in the top holes that hold the fair lead in. Plenty of pics in my build. There's a link in my signature.
Yeh as both rocket and lucus have said, flip the winch around so that the standard holes will line up with the winch and fair lead (you'll know when it's right because the winch rope will spool straight out and not foul on the bar)and then rotate the gearbox so you can engage the clutch with sufficient clearance from the crossover member. As per rocket I've got some more photos and details in my build thread also.
Where abouts are you located in melbourne?
2008 GU6 3.0 CRD AUTO | Safari Snorkel | 2" Ironman lift kit | Runva 11XP Winch | 33" MTZ's | Full Length Roof Rack | GME TX3200 | 30" LED Light Bar |
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28th January 2015, 10:24 PM
#10
Expert
If thats the case then it shouldnt matter, eg: If I hold the remote down for out and turn it on its side or upside down it will still be spoling out so on that theory I would assume all will be ok. I just mounted it upside down and looks alot better, The only prob is I still need to use the top mounting bolts for the fairlead, and sadly the bolts are too short, Ill get some longer stainless bolts and finish it off tomorrow, so far itlooks good and Im glad its set back as far as it is to eliminate sun exposure to the rope, the side brackets I was talking about you will see are still mounted and the clutch lever only just skims the bracket on the left, umming and arring about removing them as they can only be for added vibration support normal 4wdriving no stress but possibly usefull on corrigations, cape york etc. Note for others: either way I can still get my hand in there fairly easy, could even give it a tap with a small sledgey, but really not required
Pics for those that are interested
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