Win??
Were you talking about comparing them down the strip at Willowbank?
Mate, I'm a 68 year old grandfather. You'd be halfway down the strip before I'd even realised the lights had changed, LOL!
Apart from that, I can't think of much else that would interest me less than drag racing a Patrol
You win, no worries! LOL!
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
nissannewby (19th June 2014)
Some small details..
I had a small issue with the inlet pipe touching the cruise control cable so I decided to drop the cable a little but the front bolt of the bracket was under the cable.
I welded a small piece of flat bar to the original bracket so I could use the mounting hole further forward. This allowed me to file the fork down and gained almost 10mm.
Another small issue was the pipe leading to the throttle body hitting the injector connectors. Simple fix - turn 2 & 3 around 180 degrees.
The vacuum hose from the canister was also across the path of the pipe so rather than force it down under where it would rub against the pipe, I simply added a 1/8 BSPT M/F elbow - $5 from Masters.
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
Catch can..
Time will tell if this is really necessary on a reasonably low mileage petrol engine but I had to modify one the original PCV hoses anyway so why not run it through a device that could condense any oil vapour.
On top of that, it adds a bright shiny item under the bonnet
PCV mod is pretty easy to do on the 4.5. You leave the original rear hose to the PCV valve in place - although I did shorten the elbow for more clearance with the fan. The PCV valve will act as a check valve under boost.
The front hose on the rocker cover is routed to the catch can and another hose from the catch can to the intake pipe between MAF and turbo compressor.
Connected in this manner, the PCV valve works normally under vacuum while the intake air for the engine is drawn through the catch can from the intake pipe between MAF and turbo compressor where it has already been measured by the MAF.
Under boost, the PCV valve will close and any pressure building in the crankcase can exit via the air intake on the rocker cover where it will pass through the catch can and into the pre-turbo intake again.
As the meerkat would say, simples!
This is the $38 Ebay knock off I bought. It's cheap because it has nothing in it which also means it won't catch much because the vapour will go in and straight back out via the 2nd hole.
It does have a sight tube on the side and an oil drain plug.
Very easy to make this work a bit better. We need a baffle to force the vapour to take a longer route. I had some scrap stainless sheet offcuts from my DIY heatshield so I made this:
We also need some medium to condense any oil vapour. Don't listen to those who say use steel wool - it crumbles into fine steel dust that is easily airborne.
I had some Bunnings aluminium flashing left over so I cut a few pigtails with tin snips. These are big enough so they can't get sucked into the system and have enough surface area to condense the vapour - that's my theory anyway..
Almost forgot, this is where I fitted it..
Last edited by jff45; 19th June 2014 at 10:09 AM.
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
As mentioned, I chose the low mount to ensure there'd be enough room for the larger IC. I'm thinking it should also result in less engine bay temps down there but I decided to make a heatshield for it anyway. Radiant heat could be significant when it needs to pull hard.
A stainless steel 'mini sheet' from Bunnings is just the right length. Cost $48.
It cuts easily with a hand nibbler and good tinsnips. I didn't want to weld it with the MIG so I just used a couple of 5mm stainless pop rivets on the corners. They're pretty strong - I had to put lengths of pipe on my pop rivet pliers to be able to snap the stalks.
I first welded some additional tabs onto the manifold for the heatshield. I had the manifold made in Tassie. $400 delivered. I doubt I could make it for that money.. and I could never weld that well anyway!
Heatshield pics and how it fits on the manifold:
I had some offcuts so I made up this piece that fits between the compressor housing and the manifold.
Not sure it will really do anything so no comments, please, on that one..
You can see where it fits in the above manifold pic.
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body
It would still be a good idea to utilise a restriction orifice. By supplying only just as much oil as is needed, you reduce bearing windage and thus experience significantly improved spool speeds. By all means -3AN is better than -4AN, but I imagine the bearings are seeing too much volume AND pressure than is required by some excess. It also reduces the risk blowing oil through the seals if a pressure spike is seen for whatever reason (i.e. cold start, new heavier oil, over-rev...).
Here are some different pics of the turbo itself showing how I'm doing the oil feed line and how it connects behind the turbo.
The oil feed can be taken from the block just under the 6th exhaust outlet. It's a 1/8 BSPT thread and the adapter for -4AN connector is easy to find.
I bought all my fittings and braided hoses from Ebay. Good quality and way less than the Aeroflow/Speedflow etc prices here.
Also using a Kinugawa wastgate actuator. They have adjustable length, replaceable membrane and a choice of different springs to set base boost level.
I made the actuator support bracket with a shock absorber washer and some flat bar welded to part of the original support.
As mentioned, I'm starting with 0.3 bar. If I want to go slightly higher later, I'll probably do it with a boost controller.
The water inlet feed can also be taken from the block. There's a 1/4 BSPT plug in the block for emptying coolant. I'm planning to 'T' into the heater return for the return flow.
John
2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body