It's a solid metal plug so I can't just take the cover off I'd have to take the whole casing off and then I don't think I'd be able to get the plug to mateOriginally Posted by TPC
It's a solid metal plug so I can't just take the cover off I'd have to take the whole casing off and then I don't think I'd be able to get the plug to mate
2010 GU7, ZD30 CRD. ARB: bulbar, scrubbars, rock sliders, roofrack, front and rear air lockers, twin compressor. OME 2" lift, mickey T's ATZ P3 33" tyres x 6, opposite lock rear twin spare rear bar, Wurton 46" light bar roof mounted, draw system, clearview mirrors, redarc gauges: boost, EGt, engine pressure and temp, trans temp, battery. Dual battery system, 12,000lb warn winch, DYI sound/heat proofing.
Have you tried tracing the wiring on your car back to where it is connected?
Started looks like I may have to take the draws out
2010 GU7, ZD30 CRD. ARB: bulbar, scrubbars, rock sliders, roofrack, front and rear air lockers, twin compressor. OME 2" lift, mickey T's ATZ P3 33" tyres x 6, opposite lock rear twin spare rear bar, Wurton 46" light bar roof mounted, draw system, clearview mirrors, redarc gauges: boost, EGt, engine pressure and temp, trans temp, battery. Dual battery system, 12,000lb warn winch, DYI sound/heat proofing.
Place your bets:
A) Loose screw behind plug?
B) Bad connection at wiring loom?
C) Crimped or squashed wire
D) Corroded connection caused by water ingress
E) One of the above plus a below average earth on the trailer or socket.
F) Wiring that has been twisted together then taped over.
Last edited by mudnut; 23rd February 2014 at 11:34 PM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
I had a look at mine and the wiring is taken from the back of the lights on the bumper, do you have a GQ or GU?
Mate I went through the same dilemma 5 days ago. Whoever wired up my trailer plug originally used those wire tap connectors or whatever they call them. Water got in, they got so badly corroded there was no metal left in the connectors. Absolutely atrocious job, those things are farkin' s***. They should be banned!
I ended up going to Nissan and buying a proper Y harness, plugs straight into the lights on each side and a earth crimp to chasis, no crimping or wire cutting needed.
2005 TD42TI
Mine used to be one of those, if you take the screw out the back it will side back along the wiring. I also had similar symptoms to you, i ended up just redoing the whole thing with a new plug. no issues now.
1999 GU DUAL FUEL 4.5 - 2" OME - 33's KM2s - SNORKEL - CUSTOM DINTS.... Goes by the name Candy (the car not me)
X2 with gaddy I've had nothing but trouble with lights working and not working on my trailer
my son soldered all connections for me. still the same ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,there was one more wire with a FRICKEN scotch lok on it.
re moved and soldered that joint , now all is good . point is never trust a scotch lok, solder every joint with shrink sleeve over it
You can buy trailer plug LED test lights from SuperCheap auto
do you have electric brake controller fitted ??
Last edited by threedogs; 24th February 2014 at 12:54 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
So what was the out come ?
If ya not using it buy a prius .....
all joins were soldered so basically one wire from globe to the battery works like it should now properly
plus I have electric brakes, everything works fine now.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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