I always go Penrite or Nulon. Their websites have a good search by model and year which lists all recommended fluids for your vehicle (except beer for the driver).
I always go Penrite or Nulon. Their websites have a good search by model and year which lists all recommended fluids for your vehicle (except beer for the driver).
Just so we are clear, The "W" Stands for "weatherly"(name of a guy) not winter. Its an American Petroleum Institute (API) standard. The Lower number in your multigrade viscosity index indicates the oil will be "NO THINNER"(in other words, always thicker than) than 15 when its COLD in a 15w-40 (Knowing that oil thins as it gets warm and thickens when it cools). The higher number means it will be no "thicker" than 40 when its HOT. The general understanding is usually that the lower number is cold start, this incorrect, if it were, then a 0w-50 Full Esther based synthetic oil would provide ZERO lubrication or atleast as much as water and we all know this aint right.
Information here has been taken from Valvoline and Pennzoil training ....
Cheers Glenn
Lambroast (14th December 2015)
Cat DEO 15W-40 - good stuff
I use to have a Toyo-VAN, where in some places was called Toyota Tarago, and I switched from regular OIL to synthetic and I can tell you the difference was like from Hell to Heaven. I switch to my Patrol 3.0 like a year ago, and I wasn't sure which OIL to use, I started with the CASTROL multigrade 15w-40, which has been working quite ok, but from my experience with my other Car CASTROL burns fast with HIGH temp CARs like my old Toyo and like my new Patrol. I will see if I can find AMSOIL around my place ( I live in Costa Rica). Thanks for the sharing and good information.
I think I'm reading you correctly as saying 0w is as good as water to lubricate.
If not,other may think so, no offence just want to clarify.
If so m2cw, .
0w is it's ability to flow.
It does not relate to how well the oil lubricates the engine at all.
Others have sorta touched on this.
never lower than and never higher than, but in it's ability to flow only.
m2c it's all the special additives "addpacs" as the industry likes to call em, that make the difference.
And if the oil is left for to long the addpacs can wear out and protection is lost.
And then even if you run a good filter and bypass in combination addpacs still wear out.
you can even purchase bypass filters now that have slow release addpacs to extend oil's life span.
Though running these type of filters it's still recommended to test oil for addpacs, stability and contamination.
the old castrol add, " Oils anit oil sol".
there is a huge amount of info on web about oils.
here's a couple http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html.
this particular link cover alot of info the people here would like to read.
Black soot, mineral and syn it covers alot of other stuff to.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/API_gravity
cheers
Last edited by Robo; 1st February 2014 at 12:01 PM.
IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE
@ Mega Roon Moon runs Redline oil in his extended 4.2 GU wagon.
the oil was analysed after 100k and was still at spec levels. its not for everyone,
and I believe Ron does have a catch can, service intervals are extended as well but not sure
how long between filter changes.
edit:: I use Penrite 5/40 fully synthetic very happy
Last edited by threedogs; 1st February 2014 at 01:16 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
bsteveo (30th September 2016)
Castrol Gtx Magnatec Diesel for me in coz thats what Castrol recommend. But will be changing to RX Super soon and many here use and hype about Delo400 which Castrols equivalent is Rx which I can get cheap.
I feel there would be more to this than just the oil. It doesn't matter how good it is once its dirty, it's dirty. A good diesel oil keeps your engine clean while still being able to maintain its lubrication properties. To keep it in spec there would surely be extra filtration used like the franz one mentioned earlier (toilet roll style).
Delo 15w/40