Weird ghost in the dash instruments after rebuild

[mudnut]

Didn't you run wires using metal conduits recently?

[Yendor]

You going to need a calm head and start with the basics.

Start at the battery, check and clean the terminals. Hows the main earth lead to the body? the one just under the battery. Didn't you just replace the body mounts? do you have anything earthed to the chassis?

Check fusible links. Check that's the alternator is not overcharging. Check all fuses. From memory there are earth connections in each kick panel, did you reconnect these?.

Have a look at the drivers door connectors just incase they are connected incorrectly, I'm not even sure if that's possible, still worth checking.

It's going to be something simple, go over it in your mind, think about the work you carried out and what possibly could of gone wrong.

[Clunk]

Hey Kallen, can you remember replacing any of the bolts in the cargo floor area, in particular the passenger side? Only reason I ask, is I replaced the Dicky seat bolts and didn't realise they were slightly too long and managed to pinch the cables that run along the top of the chassis between the bolt and the chassis, causing the fuel gauge to read over the full line (when I knew there was only 1/4 tank left. Indicators and hazards wouldn't work and unfortunately I can't remember what else was affected.

[BigRAWesty]

You going to need a calm head and start with the basics.

Start at the battery, check and clean the terminals. Hows the main earth lead to the body? the one just under the battery. Didn't you just replace the body mounts? do you have anything earthed to the chassis?

Check fusible links. Check that's the alternator is not overcharging. Check all fuses. From memory there are earth connections in each kick panel, did you reconnect these?.

Have a look at the drivers door connectors just incase they are connected incorrectly, I'm not even sure if that's possible, still worth checking.

It's going to be something simple, go over it in your mind, think about the work you carried out and what possibly could of gone wrong.

You raise a point with body mounts.
All body mounts were replaced.

And I'll start the search tomorrow..

Hey Kallen, can you remember replacing any of the bolts in the cargo floor area, in particular the passenger side? Only reason I ask, is I replaced the Dicky seat bolts and didn't realise they were slightly too long and managed to pinch the cables that run along the top of the chassis between the bolt and the chassis, causing the fuel gauge to read over the full line (when I knew there was only 1/4 tank left. Indicators and hazards wouldn't work and unfortunately I can't remember what else was affected.

Haven't fitted 3rd row, but did remove the 1" body lift so the possibility of a pinch is there for sure..
Ill check that to..

[BigRAWesty]

Have checked the main fuses under bonnet with multi meter and all good.

Earth to body is showing 3 ohms (think it's ohms, multimeter set to resistance buzzer).
Currently checking relays under dash and fuses..

[BigRAWesty]

Ok.
Have checked key barrel, have connections via different pins in different positions, so I'd say that's working.

Have checked all visible simple relays under bonnet and foot well and all tested good. And all fuses tested good.

Both batteries have charge.
Main showing 8.5v, I know, farked but should show dash lights still
And secondary showing 12.5v.

All wires along chassis look good and free so I think we can rule a pinch out also..

And this is weird. Have opened up drivers side door again and all connections are good, correct and solid..
All other Windows work but the drivers, and central locking only opens when I turn the lights on..

So. Anything.

[BigRAWesty]

So I decided to see if I had power at the key barrel plug...
2v... Hmmmm.. Check battery again..
2v..

Ok, battery has shat itself with the 40+ day we had yesterday..
Ill jump it Off the second.. Flick On and ow lights are on...
Ow for fark sake the lights are on!!!:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::bang head::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::bang head::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::bang head::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::bang head::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::bang head::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::bang head::banghead::banghead::banghead:

Bloody night shift, driving home on sunrise and dint turn the lights off when home...
So first up, new crank battery as this one I think is finished. It doesn't hold charge for longer than 3 days..

Would a poor battery be a cause for shotty dash gauges??

[threedogs]

Need 12v Kallen wouldn't think 8 volts would help your cause.
great time of year to be lashing out on a main battery, are you
buying one with high CCA. Sealed/ wetcell etc

[BigRAWesty]

Need 12v Kallen wouldn't think 8 volts would help your cause.
great time of year to be lashing out on a main battery, are you
buying one with high CCA. Sealed/ wetcell etc

Dunno how I got the 8v the first time. Newbie On the multi... Lol

It's dead. Currently On the charge so I can get it in the drive and pull the dash back out again..

[Cuppa]

I reckon you should fit a new battery before pulling out the dash again, or at least put the the good (assuming it is good) aux in as the crank battery. At least that way you would be able to take one known quantity out of the equation.

Cuppa