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1st August 2013, 08:10 AM
#1
Expert
Child seat anchor points
Hey guys I am just wondering what you have done with the anchor points in the back after your draws have gone in.
I am in the process of designing my draw system and fridge slide but have no idea how to move the anchor point.
Any ideas would be great
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1st August 2013 08:10 AM
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1st August 2013, 08:21 AM
#2
Patrol God
Would you utilise the seatbelt Stalk bolt hole,
Nah would need to see what you're doing
I'd check under flooring as most floor plans are for Right and Left hand drive.
You may find a ship load of captive nuts there
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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1st August 2013, 10:16 AM
#3
Patrol Guru
We are getting a crab bar fitted to our GU. It's a child restraint anchor bar, in a GU it bolts to the sides of the cargo area where the two little square trim bits are. I need it because we want three anchor points for the middle row of seats. I like it because it brings the anchor points up to the level of the top of the seats so no straps going to the floor and the straps for the middle seat can't slip down the split in seat back.
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1st August 2013, 10:31 AM
#4
Patrol God
I finished my draws just behind the anchor points, but continued top self right threw to the seats. Then drilled a large hole in the top self so the straps don't touch, and placed my cargo barrier just behind that.
My draws are 900 long and top is 1100.. And I have a nice little storage area for things like water tank, toilet paper, and the non essentials.
Here is my build.
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...d.php?p=361394
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
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1st August 2013, 01:15 PM
#5
Expert
My draws are double stack of 600mm high so just made them only 800mm long which sits flush with cargo barrier. This means they are just shorter then the anchor points so these are still available to use. Ill grab some photos of anchor points tonight but below is the draws. On second photo you can see where I made a cutout out for them but this probably wasn't needed in the end. It means there is a dead space here but I think I will use this for water storage or something.
2012 GU8 Polar White Auto ST Patrol, Factory Bull bar, Scangauge 2, EGR blanked, Milford cargo barrier, Outback ideas recovery points, Micks retrofit HID 3 inch projectors with Osram bulbs and 55w ballasts, GME TXE3420, Sidewinder dual battery with monitor, Windcheetah 2.0m alloy rack, Suspension Stuff 2" Flexy lift with SS Monotubes, MT ATZ 4 ribs 265/75R16 on black Dynamic rims, Custom rear draws with fridge slide.
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1st August 2013, 01:45 PM
#6
Expert
If I had to move the points would they have to be engineered?
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1st August 2013, 01:47 PM
#7
Expert
2012 GU8 Polar White Auto ST Patrol, Factory Bull bar, Scangauge 2, EGR blanked, Milford cargo barrier, Outback ideas recovery points, Micks retrofit HID 3 inch projectors with Osram bulbs and 55w ballasts, GME TXE3420, Sidewinder dual battery with monitor, Windcheetah 2.0m alloy rack, Suspension Stuff 2" Flexy lift with SS Monotubes, MT ATZ 4 ribs 265/75R16 on black Dynamic rims, Custom rear draws with fridge slide.
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1st August 2013, 02:15 PM
#8
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
oddkid82
If I had to move the points would they have to be engineered?
Yep..
Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories
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1st August 2013, 05:13 PM
#9
Rotaredom
Originally Posted by
oddkid82
If I had to move the points would they have to be engineered?
X 2 With Kallen, yes they would have 2 be certified / engineered for it to be legal
Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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1st August 2013, 08:34 PM
#10
Expert
Thanks guys have a few ideas now, will see what I can start on the weekend
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