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The very first mods before anything suggested above: Get decent quality EGT and Boost Gauges! If don't know what your boost and EGT's are doing then you flying blind. It doesn't matter if a DI or CRD.
ZD30 killers:
High EGT's, puts holes in pistons
High Revs (they pull well to 3000, not much point revving anymore)
Poor maintenance
Simple mods I have found good and well documented everywhere in a basic order:
Boost & EGT gauges (avoid petrol engine EGT gauges, get one that goes down to at least 100°C, Boost is good to have range of 0-20 or 0-25 PSI)
Zorst, 2.75 - 3" (straight through systems do and will drone, a muffler won't hurt. CAT's can be "Lost")
Oil Vapour catch-can (ProVent 200's are great and mount up near ABS unit/Vacuum lines)
Dawes Valve and/or bleed screw, 16PSI is a good level, any more is really wasting power as you are not putting in anymore fuel (Careful with CRD's, they get fussy when VNT solenoid not in control)
Block the EGR
Fit better air cleaner element, factory kill turbine whistle and is a choke point.
Induction tube replacement helps as well, smoother airflow
Better inter-cooler for sure, fan assisted for anything moving slower the 50Kph
If you are mechanically minded, pull the entire induction tract off and clean it
If after all this, then look at chip works
DON'T fit a stainless snorkel that faces the rear, forward facing @ 100Kph can see an extra free pound of intake pressure, facing backwards robs power at speed. If you don't like mud in it, undo hose-band and face to rear while in muck!
Leave the Swirl valve system alone, it helps with bottom-end torque.